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View Full Version : Dyno Results - SR Big28 Power FC


Blues13
10-01-2007, 12:41 AM
Went for a dyno pull this weekend and thought I'd share as people are always interested in seeing dyno sheets. The dyno was done over at JER in Westminster - Linh who did my pull was really friendly/knowledgeable.

Stats on the car:
1990 240sx SE
- S13 Blacktop SR20det
- FP Big28 turbo
- HKS actuator
- Power FC d-jetro
- CP pistons 9:1
- Eagle rods
- Tomei Poncams
- RAS
- 650cc DW Injectors
- Walbro fuel pump
- Apexi 1.1 head gasket
- Hybrid FMIC
- K&N style intake
- 3" DP/CS 3" Exhaust
- SS Auto Manifold
- Freddy intake manifold
- Perrin MBC
- XS ignition amp

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/blues13/JERDyno01sm.jpg

The dyno was done on a dyno dynamic. The first pull was the best netting 303hp - after that something was acting funny and started losing power even after a cool down. You can see the boost was dropping off quite a bit towards the end - time for a EBC.

I'll start diagnosing once I get the datalogit in. The car was spitting up quite a bit of oil through the BOV making me worry that it may be rings or turbo that's going.

enjoy.

weagle
10-01-2007, 12:56 AM
Got any information on that turbo? besides Fps site, I emailed FP and they told me to ask Heavythrottle and I got no response.

sunnys14
10-01-2007, 12:57 AM
what psi was this done at?

Josh K.
10-01-2007, 01:06 AM
I run that turbo at 25psi all day. love it!

fliprayzin240sx
10-01-2007, 01:09 AM
You still got the T on the valve cover connected to the intake tract? Oil is more than likely coming from there.

Blues13
10-01-2007, 01:10 AM
Got any information on that turbo? besides Fps site, I emailed FP and they told me to ask Heavythrottle and I got no response.

I believe its the same turbo they use on the DSM version. I think they pulled the big28 off the Nissan section as they just introduced a new turbo. On their website, in the DSM section, you should still be able to find it.

Blues13
10-01-2007, 01:12 AM
You still got the T on the valve cover connected to the intake tract? Oil is more than likely coming from there.

Yeah, that's going to part of my diagnosing - i'll put in a catch can or breather on the T and see if it's still spitting the oil. thanks.

Blues13
10-01-2007, 01:12 AM
what psi was this done at?

PSI shown on the graph - around 19-22 dropping off to 15.

TonKpilS14
10-01-2007, 01:24 AM
how much did it cost to dyno it there? did they do a good job? im in the orange county 2 and when i put my sr back in it needs to be tuned.

coreansurfer
10-01-2007, 01:26 AM
+1 for JER
hope to see you at the yearly bbq

how much did it cost to dyno it there? did they do a good job? im in the orange county 2 and when i put my sr back in it needs to be tuned.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=157528

with all the info.

Blues13
10-01-2007, 01:27 AM
how much did it cost to dyno it there? did they do a good job? im in the orange county 2 and when i put my sr back in it needs to be tuned.

Yeah, check out the regional Cali thread - they have a special going on until Nov for $50 for 3 pulls. Real cool guys and helpful - I will be going back once I get everything sorted out.

93SECoupe
10-01-2007, 01:33 AM
Hey nice numbers, I was just there this Saturday getting some things check out on my car. Some guy working there told me there was a blue 240 that did 300 at wheels I guess it must have been yours. I am also thinking of getting the apex power FC D-Jetro for my car and thinking of going with the garret 2871R.

smelly240
10-01-2007, 04:42 AM
i used to run the FP big28 - it was good to me but i got tired of it fast and sold it to my buddy for his sentra. its hard to upgrade to something like that and stick with it.

are you running a catchcan/breather to intake pipe?

steve shadows
10-01-2007, 09:30 AM
I just did 390 whp yesterday on dynodynamics at 17 psi on 91 oct.

AFR is still like 10:1


its a great dyno, usually 16% lower readout than dynojet.


...are you sure he didnt have something corrected on the first run, then fixed it and the second two are actually your legit numbers?

just a thought...

because thats a screen shot and not a printout we cant see what parameters were input.

either way decent numbers for that dyno

Blues13
10-01-2007, 09:42 AM
I just did 390 whp yesterday on dynodynamics at 17 psi on 91 oct.

AFR is still like 10:1


its a great dyno, usually 16% lower readout than dynojet.


...are you sure he didnt have something corrected on the first run, then fixed it and the second two are actually your legit numbers?

just a thought...

because thats a screen shot and not a printout we cant see what parameters were input.

either way decent numbers for that dyno

390hp - very nice. Yea, i'm already wanting more..

No correction from the first run - he wasn't quite sure why the last runs were lower. I actually upped the boost a lil on the last run and still made same numbers.

steve shadows
10-01-2007, 09:44 AM
maybe the missing part is me tuning it haha

cheers man. youll get there.

you pulled your revs out pretty high I see for peak

I think I stopped at 7300 on mine power was still climbing.

-what duration cams? 256?

Blues13
10-02-2007, 12:08 AM
maybe the missing part is me tuning it haha

cheers man. youll get there.

you pulled your revs out pretty high I see for peak

I think I stopped at 7300 on mine power was still climbing.

-what duration cams? 256?

Haha, yea.. my revs are high - I don't like lifting my foot off the pedal.

The cams are mild - yep, 256.

Blues13
10-02-2007, 09:56 PM
So I got the Datalogit installed and I happen to notice that one of the settings, ignition vs. airtemp, showed that at 50C it would retard ign. by 3 degrees. Could 3 degrees be enough to lose 18rwhp?

That brings me to another question - I recently moved the air temp sensor from the intake piping into the manifold. When it was in the piping, the temp was in the ambient-40s, in the manifold, it ranges 40s-60s. In the manifold is where Apexi suggest although it seems like the manifold is absorbing a lot of heat. Just idling for a prolong amount of time on a cool day is enough to raise it over 50. On a warm day it will go over 60.

The piping on the cold side is still cool to the touch, so the air is actually much cooler than the temp sensor indicates. Is this normal and is there any adverse effects to raising the ign retard setting to 60 or 70?