Hardly any acceleration in my SR swap

[Gumballf355]

So i have this SR20det, we've done alot of stuff to it, and i know there are a couple other things that need resolving but my first question is:

Can i get a straight up answer on cam timing. I haven't been able to find anything really solid. ON the crank pulley, the second timing mark from the left is TDC, correct? So then at TDC, the INTAKE cam should be at about 9 o'clock and the EXHAUST at 12 o'clock, correct? Also is there a more accurate & scientific way then going by "o'clocks"?

Secondly, this car has no acceleration. No boost leaks, we KNOW this. We put GReddy's easy cams and i spent FOREVER wanting to make sure the cam timing is on, and it is according to what i wrote above. I still need to check the MAF and the TPS, but apart of those. Before that though, we're going to replace the fuel filter. We have the old KA filter in there, could that be the source of all our anguish? Anything else you guys can think of??

[Kouki]

Actually intake cam is more at 10 o'clock and exhaust is 12 o'clock. Set crank to TDC, there is a dot on each cam gear, with the engine at tdc there should be a shiney link on the chain that is in line with each dot on the cam gears. that is where the cam timing is supposed to be.

[KwKouki]

does it boost, then feel like its hitting a wall under hard throttle...then when you let off throttle it breaks up in the exhaust? Might be detonation

[Gumballf355]

Yes, we are actually at 10 & 12 instead of 9 & 12. We have the correct amount of links between the cam marks and thats where they set so i wasn't sure about the whole 9 & 12 thing.
Yeah, our chain is old and there is only 1 shiny link on it. That 1 link is used to match the mark on the crank sprocket and then we measured the links. It wasn't boosting much because we couldn't accelerate. I KNOW its not boost leaking because i've had many boost leak cars before and this isn't it. The BOV is a brand new out of the box GReddy type RS.
Today we're gonna check TPS & MAF.

[Gumballf355]

One more thing, on the BOV packaging it says to give it its own direct line, dont T anything into it, so i did that. But due to the lack of other vacuum ports on the mani, i have the line to the FPR T'd with a boost gauge line & the vacuum signal for the boost controller. So there are 2 T's in one line. Could both these T's be acting as too much of a draw on the FPR reducing fuel to the cylinders? Or does it not matter at all.

Please only tell me if you know FOR SURE. I dont want to chase false leads if something just think "it sounds" right. Thanks!!!

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Sounds like detonation, which feels a lot like boost leak. You need to get that mechanical timing down first... you should be able to do it by just pulling the valve cover and the timing chain tensioner (and rotating the crank around until you get the 'marked' links).

And yes, it's fine that you tee'd the FPR twice for both those lines, that's the right way to do it.

[Gumballf355]

Detonation--> possible
I'll need to check codes. Right now i'm waiting for sealer to harden before i start the car again, dont want oil to leak through the soft sealer at the moment.
But ignition timing's on, can't hear any detonation either, so i don't know why it would be detonating.
If it comes down to rechecking the mechanical timing for the 3d time i'll do it, but i'm gonna check out the other things first. The mechanical timing HAS to be on, because at TDC, i have 10 & 12 o clock.
I probably should have mentioned this in my FIRST post, it sounds like a WRX when we drive it. Plugs aren't cracked & compression is good across the board.

[Gumballf355]

UPDATE: Just pulled codes

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal

Going to look into these.. from what i read the crank sensor will throw the ignition code, correct?

[Gumballf355]

This idles ok, not great, but pretty good considering the cams it has. But our AFR gauge doesn't even register. First we thought the gauge might be the wrong one, but it is a narrowband gauge, and we have a narrowband O2 sensor. When we WOT and rev it real high the light starts to climb up the LEAN side towards STOICH, but then shoots back down when we let off. Even if the cam timing were off a little it would still register LEAN or RICH right? Apparently its running soooo lean that it isn't even registering. We already replaced the KA fuel filter with a 300ZX TT filter. I think its lack of power is coming from severe fuel shortage. Does that sound plausible?

[Gumballf355]

Don't know if anyone cares, but we solved it. Intake cam was off 1 lousy tooth! There needs to be a more concrete scientific way than 10 o'clock. SO what, we had it a 9:59?