deposits on spark plugs

[srgabe]

got a s13 sr blacktop motor ..using ngk iridium plugs..i first noticed my car had starting porblems so i installed a walbro fuel pump..still nothing changed...i ALWAYS have to pump the gas to get the car started..i checked my plugs and they where kinda WHITE..or more like white deposit stuff on them..i checked my timing was off...was at the the THIRD mark from the right so i set it back to the 2nd mark from the right...now when i press on the gas..i can hear a delay in the throttle response...And now my idle is all wacked out...any suggestions?? im also using a safc

[srgabe]

bkr6eix(6418) is the plugs im using could it be the heat range im using is incorrect? along with a incorrect fuel/air ratio??...and from my understanding WHITE deposit means my plugs are overheating??

[GSXRJJordan]

Those are heat range 6 plugs. That's OK for stock boost. Running iridiums is unnecessary, copper works just as well, just doesn't last as long.

Something that everyone should understand about spark plugs - heat range is not how hot the 'spark' is - they all have the same spark. Heat range refers to how much heat the spark plug pulls out of the combustion chamber - higher number = colder heat range = more heat transferred to the cylinder head from the combustion chamber.

White marks on the plugs and chunks of insulation eaten away generally means you're running lean. A light grey/greyish brown is perfect. Also, gap your plugs to .028" - that's 28 thousanths.

I don't remember what the FSM says about setting base timing, it's been so long since I've set it, but I'd double-check that.

Search for 'cold start' issues with SRs, could be a lot of things. If the car runs perfectly after it's warm, the problem is minimal. Most people say to start with cleaning out your IACV with carb cleaner.

If you really want to know if you're running way lean, take pics of the plugs in question - better yet, search for spark plug pics and look at the examples, and see what to look for.

[srgabe]

Those are heat range 6 plugs. That's OK for stock boost. Running iridiums is unnecessary, copper works just as well, just doesn't last as long.

Something that everyone should understand about spark plugs - heat range is not how hot the 'spark' is - they all have the same spark. Heat range refers to how much heat the spark plug pulls out of the combustion chamber - higher number = colder heat range = more heat transferred to the cylinder head from the combustion chamber.

White marks on the plugs and chunks of insulation eaten away generally means you're running lean. A light grey/greyish brown is perfect. Also, gap your plugs to .028" - that's 28 thousanths.

I don't remember what the FSM says about setting base timing, it's been so long since I've set it, but I'd double-check that.

Search for 'cold start' issues with SRs, could be a lot of things. If the car runs perfectly after it's warm, the problem is minimal. Most people say to start with cleaning out your IACV with carb cleaner.

If you really want to know if you're running way lean, take pics of the plugs in question - better yet, search for spark plug pics and look at the examples, and see what to look for.


yea i gaped my plugs to that specification..i did clean my iacv...but i was doing some thinking and i just think my timing isnt correct so ima look into that as well as the running lean problem...as go from there

[srgabe]

wait whats the difference between tdc and btdc??

[aznpoopy]

top dead center = piston at top of stroke ready to fire

base top dead center = denotes tdc as 0 degrees as the basis for comparison

i.e. +20 degrees bdtc = 20 degrees beyond top dead center

[MegasquirtCA]

top dead center = piston at top of stroke ready to fire

base top dead center = denotes tdc as 0 degrees as the basis for comparison

i.e. +20 degrees bdtc = 20 degrees beyond top dead center


BTDC stands for Before Top Dead Center.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ That's correct (BTDC = before top dead center). And we're talking about piston 1, as in closest to the front of the car, for anyone following along at home...

[aznpoopy]

lol me = owned

[MegasquirtCA]

lol me = owned

nah no ownage its just one of those Homer :doh: moments

[daryl337]

if you are sitting too far advanced of course you are going to get a funky plug color, especially if it looks like the insulation is chunking up. To some people it is hard to differentiate a lean running condition, or a too far advanced condition on the plug.

[srgabe]

yea im just not to sure where to set my timing something doesnt seem right because my motor would mildly shake so i set my timing second mark from the right and the shaking mostly stopped. now i just need to fix the running lean issue any suggestions would be appreciated and isnt my afc suppose to fix this problem? or could it be my settings are incorrect? i am using a z32 maf

[daryl337]

more than likely your settings are incorrect, you might want to fatten your mixture up some for use with the z32.

[srgabe]

and now i got white smoke from the exhaust.....another question...i heard you could use dex cool(gm) radiator fluid with the koyo aluminum radiator..supposely its better for your radiator...true??

[srgabe]

more than likely your settings are incorrect, you might want to fatten your mixture up some for use with the z32.

yea seems to be..gona take my car back to my local motorsports shop who did my tuning and have them re-do my settings

[GSXRJJordan]

NOOOO Dex-Cool SUCKS!

Flush that shit out... and flush it good. Fill your radiator with hose water, and disconnect your top radiator hose from the block - then just let the water pump spray all that nasty shit out the water neck, keeping the radiator filled. Then spray the hose into the water neck to make sure there are no bubbles, and fill the radiator with regular 50/50, maybe with some Water Wetter.

If you're using a Z32 MAF, what are you using to tune the motor? SAFC? There are tons of posts about settings for those when using the Z32 MAF.

[daryl337]

Dex cool was actually originally designed for use with the GM's water pumps. apparently the water pumps impellers are made of a material that do not mix well with a standard phosphate based antifreeze.

FYI the new prestone is interchangable, because it is a phosphate free mixture. :)

[srgabe]

hahahha yeaaa i had a feeling that wasnt a smart move but i had a few customers come in to my job saying they use it with there aluminum radiators and it works fine so i thought id try it..my mistake lol yea ima flush that shit out and i do use water wetter...and i am using a SAFC..i just dropped the car of to this motorsports shop over here in hawaii and there gone fine tune it for me