View Full Version : PVC Intercooler Piping?
2plus4plus0eq6
09-21-2007, 12:18 PM
Title says it all. Part of my piping is not done becuase I dont want to relocate my battery. I was thinking of doing the rest with PVC and couplings.
I would like to finish it off with the 3" aluminum I have so far, but it seems expensive.
Anyone try this with PVC before? Seems cheaper, easier to work with and its still light weight.
Slidin240Wayz
09-21-2007, 12:32 PM
Are you really fucking serious?
Seriously?
Honestly?
UGH
NO...NO...and NO
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
You are unbelievable.
That's like asking if it's cool to have sex while using seran wrap instead of a condom.
LowNismo17
09-21-2007, 12:46 PM
Are you really fucking serious?
Seriously?
Honestly?
UGH
NO...NO...and NO
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
You are unbelievable.
That's like asking if it's cool to have sex while using seran wrap instead of a condom.
LMAO couldn't have said it better
nissanguy13
09-21-2007, 12:53 PM
Are you really fucking serious?
Seriously?
Honestly?
UGH
NO...NO...and NO
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
You are unbelievable.
That's like asking if it's cool to have sex while using seran wrap instead of a condom.
Damn and all this time I thought Ive been saving money with a safe alternative X2. I guess I'll start buying condoms and take the PCV off my car.
azndummie
09-21-2007, 01:04 PM
so stupid it makes me laugh hahahahaha
Suk02Si
09-21-2007, 01:57 PM
Great book, you should check it out. I think this thread was cited in it http://www.zilvia.net/f/images/icons/icon14.gif
http://www.paulormerod.com/images/fail.jpg
swayray
09-21-2007, 02:01 PM
it will not take the pressure of the boost and you will encounter alot of vacuum leak... pipes might even collapse... the rubber couplings are exactly what they are made of... just rubber and would expand and possibly explode under alot of boost load....
Nikeboy355
09-21-2007, 02:02 PM
Don't go turbo if you can't afford the right parts...
PVC piping is for plumbing... Not for motorsports...
((sr)) kelly
09-21-2007, 02:04 PM
wow... yeh man.. do it ..
statik
09-21-2007, 02:50 PM
No idea whos this is:
http://99.228.7.230/jjm1.jpg
http://99.228.7.230/jjm2.jpg
http://99.228.7.230/jjm3.jpg
cashed240
09-21-2007, 03:20 PM
thats hilarious. . . but seriously, you could always heat your springs to lower it also to save money. lol j/k i'm sure people on here have tried it at least once in their time.
HalveBlue
09-21-2007, 05:35 PM
it will not take the pressure of the boost and you will encounter alot of vacuum leak... pipes might even collapse... the rubber couplings are exactly what they are made of... just rubber and would expand and possibly explode under alot of boost load....
Don't talk shit, mang.
PVC pipe is able to withstand the PSI.
It's just that it looks like ass.
To the OP, go for it if you're a function over form type of person.
Just don't expect to get mad props from anybody.
It'll look exactly like what it is: CHEAP.
khoadogg
09-21-2007, 05:53 PM
hahah... HELL NO!!!! I've done ghetto stuff before too and it's just a headache pulling over to reconnect the pipe... hahah don't do it!! save up!!!
Rittmeister
09-21-2007, 06:08 PM
Pretty sure I've read that PVC will not necessarily stand up to underhood heat, all other considerations aside.
If you're on a budget, galvanized fencepost works just fine. The FWD guys used to use it a lot.
condoit!! use 2.5" condoit and teflon.... no boost leaks for life.....
donmx258
09-21-2007, 06:44 PM
unless you are boosting over 35 pounds and your temp under your hood is over 350ish u would be fine pvc is pretty strong actually
IN33DH3LP
09-21-2007, 07:00 PM
My buddy had a Mark III Supra with PVC for his front mount untill he could get some mandrel bent pipe. It held fine. Looked lame, but it got the job done.
burnsauto
09-21-2007, 07:04 PM
i'd say no.
if you cant afford 100 bucks worth of materials...then god knows that other corners you're trying to cut in other areas. cars are never cheap to modify. if you cant afford it right now...maybe get an sr smic setup for (ive seen sets go for 50-60 bucks) and use that.
better to do things the right way, the first time. If something goes wrong, you'll have less downtime, and its alot easier to pinpoint a problem.
good luck with the build though:bigok:
ThatGuy
09-21-2007, 07:25 PM
I believe I once read somewhere that every 90 degree bend in your piping is equal to 3 feet of straight pipe or something like that. If that is true, then PVC would be a poor choice simply for the hard bends.
Pay once and do it right, or pay twice once you've done it wrong.
YoungRookie
09-21-2007, 10:12 PM
Dude please tell me you are kidding and you were just trying to make a few of us laugh when you posted this. Please do not use pvc pipe for you intercooler piping as plenty of others have advised you....
ive read that the fumes from heated pcv pipes are not really healthy to be breathing in.
cbcustoms
09-21-2007, 10:16 PM
If you really want to do it. Use CPVC it's used in new home construction's fire suppresion systems. It's able to stand higher pressure then regular pvc and higher temps. I can't believe your actually thinking of doing that but if you are, use CPVC
gotta240
09-21-2007, 10:19 PM
Don't worry bout all the douche bags on here who flame shit before thinking. Half of them don't have a turbo and most likely have shit cars anyways. The other half just flame everything...
You are thinking outside the box and from a practical point of view.. I commend you for that.
I think it will LOOK JANKY. I think all the 90's will hurt you FLOW. I also think it would work untill something better can be found/bought.... From previous potato gun buildings, i believe the abs(black) is much more durable than pvc. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH though, and dont take my word for it...
The way i look at it...IF it can handle the pressure of an explosion that will launch a 1lb potato 100 yards, i think it could handle 17lbs of boost. again, JUST MY OPINION.
yokotas13
09-21-2007, 10:23 PM
I believe I once read somewhere that every 90 degree bend in your piping is equal to 3 feet of straight pipe or something like that. If that is true, then PVC would be a poor choice simply for the hard bends.
Pay once and do it right, or pay twice once you've done it wrong.
but ive also seen formulas that prove 12 ft of piping only add .5 of psi pressure drop....
johngriff
09-21-2007, 10:28 PM
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/vonendorphin/failzilvia.jpg
Seriously, just save money, you can do a fmic w/o a battery relocate. Measure twice, cut once, Measure Once buy twice.
Tops*
09-22-2007, 02:12 AM
^ Yup, what clutch master said.
If you can't afford aluminum now, I think stainless steel would be a much better alternative than pvc. You could also consider mild steel. I'm sure you already know, but you'd have to coat your piping to prevent rust.
The previous owner (or the owner before him) of my car installed a really small battery which opened up some space for the fmic piping. It's pretty sketchy with a tight fit, but hey, it get's the job done for now. I plan on re-doing the intake and ic piping this winter then having it powder coated by a friend of mine.
Good luck.
2plus4plus0eq6
09-23-2007, 11:27 AM
hah wow. I got a lot of attention on this post huh. Thanks for all of the comments. Some people were really supportive while others were not.
I should have mentioned that this was a temporary solution for me. I just needed something while I drove my car to the shop and found someone who could weld aluminum or steel for me.
One of you guys mentioned to use CPVC. I know there are many types out there and I will look into it more.
I know PVC is very durable and easy to work it. I use it at work all of the time. You can buy 90s for it and such. It really is a good solution. I just wanted some feedback from you guys. I know it looks like ass, but its not as noticeable for me because there will only be a little bit of it on the passenger side between some aluminum piping.
I am more of a funcion over form type guy whoever said that. I still think my engine bay looks damn sexy. Dont believe me? look at my cardomain pics.
Thanks
Title says it all. Part of my piping is not done becuase I dont want to relocate my battery. I was thinking of doing the rest with PVC and couplings.
I would like to finish it off with the 3" aluminum I have so far, but it seems expensive.
Anyone try this with PVC before? Seems cheaper, easier to work with and its still light weight.
damn no wonder my friend got banned from zilvia. talking lots of smack on the dumb dumbs
johngriff
09-23-2007, 06:01 PM
If you need to drive it 10 miles to a shop. put a filter on the inlet of the tubo. use your old intake pipe on the TB, then hook the maf onto that, N/a style. That will be adequate to limp to the welding shop on.
If that is ALL you needed to do, then you should be fine.
2ilvia
09-23-2007, 06:28 PM
do it and paint it to look good
cbcustoms
09-23-2007, 06:44 PM
Just use the CPVC. Its a nice orange color lol
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