Remote Start Alarm wont work..s14..Viper 791

[BillyTheChamp]

i just installed one into my car.. and i cant get the remote start/turbo timer to work.. it will crank once and start and keep cranking.. and i shut it off because im scared of toasting my starter.. also when i press the turbo timer feature on remote, it wont activate or even make a sound.. any advice.??

[MyLevinGTZ]

did you wire it up to use RPM signal or timed start?

the 791 works very well if properly set up. i've put one in an S13 and an S14. first thing is to verify your ignition wiring, then make sure you program the start signal as per the instructions. once the tach signal is learned it should fire off no problem.

just keep playing with it. you can always set it to crank for a certain ammount of time if your engine starts fairly easily. you have a couple of options, play with it.

tach signal is the best choice though.

[BillyTheChamp]

i think it's wired right.. and yeah i did wire the rpm signal.. i tried doing the tach learn but im not 100 percent sure im doing it right.. i followed the manual.. by turning the ignition on and in less than 5 sec pressing the vallet button untill the led light turns solid.. but nothing happens when i do it.. the light doesnt even turn soilid and goes straight into program mode..

[Go180sx]

:2f2f:hey JR ko this is SR ko!!!! hahaha you did it. Hey call me before you quit your job. i still want to get my alarm ill send you the money or something. good luck with the wiring.:naughty:

[MyLevinGTZ]

hmmm.... i don't remember off the top of my head, but don't you have to actually start the car? while holding the button in tach learn mode? the instructions can be hard to understand at a glance, read them over several times to make sure you have the sequence just right. If something doesn't work, shut off and try again.

it's probably the fact it hasn't learned the tach signal yet. probably why the turbo timer function doesn't work either, the unit doesn't know the engine is running in the first place lol

[BillyTheChamp]

yeah.. i did try it while the car was on.. and it didnt go into tach learn mode.. what could be causing this?? someone said i didnt wire the tach signal right.. but im pritty sure i did.. i have a sr20ed redtop s14 with a tomei ecu/safc 2.. and the safc2 manual said the blue wire on it was the rpm signal wire and it's spliced into that..

[BillyTheChamp]

i checked the wiring and it seems to be right.. it's connected to the proper rpm signal the yellow wire with the silver dashes.. im pritty sure it's the right one because i got my safc2 rpm signal (green wire) spliced into it as well.. my tach learn still wont work.. i start the car and press the vallet button with door closed and nothing happens.. yet when i tap the button it goes into vallet mode.. when i press the button and hold yet again with the door open it just goes into program mode.. please help..

[RHDintegXSI]

i would double check the heavy gauge wiring off the remote start relay box. imo it sounds like your starting the car without power to the ignition, check the remote starts pink (ignition) wire connection

[s14alex]

Did you do that whole Accessory isolation thing?

http://i10.tinypic.com/66vlqv7.jpg

[nismo-240sx]

i have had the same problem with mine not starting at all on my s14 havent figured it out yet.

[BattleRoyale]

clutch bypass????

[BillyTheChamp]

ill try to look into it alex.. thanks.. but why does it say it's only for the altima and not 240sx?.. and yes i did do the clutch bypass battleroyale.. for some reason it wont let me learn the tach signal..

[slim]

i think your looking for the yellow with red stripe wire as tach signal not yellow with silver dashes. you are doing the the learn process right just not the right wire.

[BillyTheChamp]

yeah i double checked it.. and it was the yellow with red stripe.. and it is connected correctly.. and still the same issue.. if it's not the tach wire.. why cant i learn tach signal?

[slim]

if you have a multimeter you can check the tach signal at the yellow/red wire and then check to make sure you have the same signal at the alarm brain to make sure your getting the signal to the brain. it is the purple/white wire from the brain youre using? you will have isolate the accessory circuit. it doesn't matter that it says other models it works for the s14 also. i had to use it on my brothers zenki 14.

[BillyTheChamp]

yeah im us9ing the purple wire from the brain.. ill try that isolation thing.. and see what happens..

[WA_Sileighty]

if you must then you can use the injector pulse as a tach. Basicly the uncommon wire between your 4 injector harneses will work on that alarm. If the LED doesnt turn solid after the car is running and the valet button held down then it didn't learn the tach. Thats most likely your issue. Do you have both starter wire's connected? Dont remember what year they started but alot of nissans into the 90s have 2 starter wires, both have to be energized to start the vehicle in most cases. black/white and black/yellow

[fueled by hate]

If you start the car and immediately hold the valet switch down it should learn the tach signal (the led will come on solid and when you release it the parking lights flash once). If not you're not getting the right tach signal. On some dei alarms you can switch the tach signal from low threshold to high threshold. Try witching it if your alarm has that option and then try learning the tach again. If you still can't do it try running a tach wire to one of your injector wires. Use a multimeter to determine which wire gives the right signal and tap in to it. Then try and learn the tach again(should always work off an injector signal.
If all that fails look in your manual and see if you can switch it from tach signal to voltage sensing. On the new dei alarms you don't even need a tach signal. It can sense when the voltage goes up after the car has started to disengage the starter. I doubt yours will have that option though.
Also if you're trying to use the turbo timer feature don't try and activate it when your foot is on the brake pedal. You can't set it if the alarm see's that the brake is being pressed (that's if you hooked it up like you're supposed to).

[BillyTheChamp]

i have to see if i can mess with it on monday..

[95Kouki]

to me it sounds as if you do not have a proper tach signal reaching the alarm brain

First -

What Connection Method are you using? (solder and tape,T-taps, or scotch-locks)

Directechs 1077- Is a must...

What Year is your chassis?

Make sure your grounds are tits...I cannot express how many times i've charged people 100/hr to trouble shoot their alarms at their home.


Check -

Violet/White - Tach wire, Make sure you used and make sure that it's still plugged into the harness,(sometimes those pins do slide out of thier molex plug at the brain)

Make sure that you did not confuse the White 12+(constant) Wire for the white Accy Wire

I find this highly unlikey...However

If you feel that you have the correct tach wire. You may want to try and temp. disconnect the tach signal from the safc. It may cause a slight feedback that the alarm will pick-up and not allow to program a tach rate.

Best of luck

Jason

[BillyTheChamp]

to me it sounds as if you do not have a proper tach signal reaching the alarm brain

First -

What Connection Method are you using? (solder and tape,T-taps, or scotch-locks)

Directechs 1077- Is a must...

What Year is your chassis?

Make sure your grounds are tits...I cannot express how many times i've charged people 100/hr to trouble shoot their alarms at their home.


Check -

Violet/White - Tach wire, Make sure you used and make sure that it's still plugged into the harness,(sometimes those pins do slide out of thier molex plug at the brain)

Make sure that you did not confuse the White 12+(constant) Wire for the white Accy Wire

I find this highly unlikey...However

If you feel that you have the correct tach wire. You may want to try and temp. disconnect the tach signal from the safc. It may cause a slight feedback that the alarm will pick-up and not allow to program a tach rate.

Best of luck

Jason

thanks 95 kouki..

i have a 95 with sr red top with tomei ecu..

i used the solder method

yeah.. im going to try to re-check the wiring on monday.. but i am for a fact sure my rpm signal is connected in the right wire since it still shows fine on my safc 2..

but yeah ill try to check the pins/plug at the brain, and check the white constant.. hopefully ill have better news on monday..

[BillyTheChamp]

i just checked the acc wire (white) and it's wired to the right one.. i guess it must be the 1077.. acc isolation thing.. im going to have to try it..

[MyLevinGTZ]

the 791 i put in a 97 kouki did not require the isolation circuit. nor did the one i put in a 92 S13. this circuit is only mandatory if you would like to have the acc running with the remote start (i.e. blower/defroster). Otherwise, the remote start and engine run will function properly. You probably have your power wire that's supposed to be on the "run" wire hooked up to one of the "ACC" wires. common problem as the FSM is wrong on these wire colors.

FWIW, the S14 FSM is wrong on it power supply routing. It conflicts itself on a couple of pages for wire colors. one is right, the other is wrong but i can't say i remember wich wires. It's pretty self evident if you use the FSM for this though. To be safe, use a multi-meter on your ignition switch to find out wich wires get power on "run". there should be two directly off the IG switch, one for the engine/harness power and the other for the interior/ACC stuffs. see if you have that hooked up backwards. or if your blower motor works when tried to remote start, that is probably the issue.

then you can hook up that circuit above for the ACC wire you just disconnected to have the full functionality of the system.

i hope that wasn't too confusing.

[BillyTheChamp]

some pics of my wiring..

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/4898/cimg2769bd5.th.jpg (http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2769bd5.jpg)



http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/4898/cimg2769bd5.th.jpg (http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2769bd5.jpg)


wires..

Green-Black/white Key side

Orange - Blue wire

Pink/White- Black/ Yellow

Purple- Black/White Starter Side

Red wires x2
Red/White = White and Red

Pink- Black/green


here is how i have the remote start heavy gauge harness wired up.

[BillyTheChamp]

some pics of my wiring..

http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/4898/cimg2769bd5.th.jpg (http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2769bd5.jpg)



http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2416/cimg2770ns1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)



wires..

Green-Black/white Key side

Orange - Blue wire

Pink/White- Black/ Yellow

Purple- Black/White Starter Side

Red wires x2
Red/White = White and Red

Pink- Black/green


here is how i have the remote start heavy gauge harness wired up.

[slim]

if the car starts and runs with the starter still engaged and then shuts off when starter stops its a problem with the tach wire not ignition wires. did you check to see of the brain is getting the tach signal?

[fueled by hate]

you could have a cold solder joint where you connected your tach wire.

[MyLevinGTZ]

if the car starts and runs with the starter still engaged and then shuts off when starter stops its a problem with the tach wire not ignition wires. did you check to see of the brain is getting the tach signal?

unless the acc wire from the alarm is hooked up to the starter wire. then it would start the car and keep the starter running.....

[BillyTheChamp]

any other suggestions.. are the wires right?

[MyLevinGTZ]

without having the FSM and/or an S14 to test directly i can't say.

Did you use a multi-meter to test your ignition harnes prior to installing it to verify your starter wire? i assume if you can start the car with the key then that is good.

sorry i can't help you, i would need to look at it in person to figure it out. these things are not hard, but can get frustrating.

[BillyTheChamp]

yeah.. i do believe everything is wired correctly.. i mean i can start the car without pressing the clutch.. and everything else on my alarm works besides the tach learn/remote start.. im still very stumpted.. and it kinda sucks since i kinda bought it because of it's turbo timer feature..

[MyLevinGTZ]

if you only bought it for that, sell it and get an aftermarket. they are much better for actually calculating how long the car needs to run before it shuts off by tapping off of different sensors. in my case, the 02 sensor.

but having the alarm, remote start and door functions is nice. i just wouldn't use it for a turbo timer.

does your stock tach work? if so you can tap into the wire behind the gauge cluster for it if you are not certain the one you tapped at the ECU is correct.

[BillyTheChamp]

yeah.. i sold my aftermarket one.. i dont need one that calcuates depending on how hard i run it.. i dont drive like an idiot anyway.. I didnt just buy the alarm for the turbo timer feature.. i bought this model alarm for that feature.. i was getting an alarm anyway since how bad 240s are getting jacked lately..

yeah my stock tach works.. and it is 100 percent wired correctly to the tach signal on the ecu..

this is getting frustrating.. i will paypal 20 bucks to anyone who figures this out for me..

[MyLevinGTZ]

have you tried setting it to run the starter for a specific programmed ammount of time? you can do that instead of the tach signal learn process. should at least get you started and get the system working.

[BillyTheChamp]

how do i do that? it doesnt say on the manual..

[slim]

if you dont have a multimeter take your car to someone that does. just about anybody that installs viper should be able to fix this in less time than it took you to read/respond to this thread if they are looking at the car.

[BillyTheChamp]

the thing is no one in my town wants to mess with a remote start.. since it has liablity issues..

[dorifto-san4o8]

right now you have your car on engine checking tach. since you probably havent found the right wire just go into the menu and set it to check voltage.
first whenever your programing your alarm settings you MUST have a door open, so make sure your door trigger wire is connected which is the green wire. the menu to change your settings from checkin tach to voltage is 3-2. with a door open put your key to the on mode then back off. hold the valet switch down until you hear 3 beeps and your in menu 3. once you hear the 3 bbeeps let go and press the valet switch 2 times and hold on the 3rd. you will hear 2 beeps, while holding the valet switch down after those beeps press the unlock button on your transmitter and you should be set. put the key back on and it will save your settings. if you have any other questions pm me and ill give you my number to walk you through it

[dorifto-san4o8]

i think it's wired right.. and yeah i did wire the rpm signal.. i tried doing the tach learn but im not 100 percent sure im doing it right.. i followed the manual.. by turning the ignition on and in less than 5 sec pressing the vallet button untill the led light turns solid.. but nothing happens when i do it.. the light doesnt even turn soilid and goes straight into program mode..

if you already got the tach wire and you cant learn the signal. im not sure if you meant by the post above that you just put the key to the on position. but what your suppose to do is turn the car on in then within the 5 seconds you hold the valet button to program. let me know if it works. been working with viper alarms for about 6 years now and manage a car audio shop.

[BillyTheChamp]

problem solved.. thanks to much help by dorifto-san.. he really went out of his way to help..

my problem was i read the wrong write ups on nico/zilvia on how to wire this thing.. one of the only times the "Search" button didn't help.. but yeah.. everything is perfect now.. the alarm works great!

[MyLevinGTZ]

So what was wired wrong? you can put it in the post so others don't have the same search issue in the future. glad you got it fixed tho.