Buying a 240sx within the next two month.

[HKrpS13]

I got in to an accident in September and my 89' 240 SE got some damage thats going to cost about $4000. Thats more than what I got the car for, so I decided to get a new one.
I'm looking for a  -1993  240SX  SE  Fastback  5-speed
                          - below-100K miles
                          - condition-cleaner the better
                          - clean title
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; - price- $?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>(whats reasonable? 4K?)
I found some that matched. But the price was over my range. So if you guys know any sites or info that might be selling this, please e-mail or let me know.
(I'm in a rush cause the one I got in a accident is still sitting in my garage for parts, and my parents are getting mad since it takes up the whole garage)

Thank You people for helping me out.

[240meowth]

i feel you, my totaled 89 camry is in the gardage, and my mom is bitting my head off, anyone need parts? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[mbmbmb23]

Your search remind me of what I went through looking for the car I currently own. &nbsp;I paid $4,000 for a 93 base model fastback. &nbsp;It had high miles 135k, but there was absolutely no rust, 2 small little dings, 1 owner...lady driven. &nbsp;The factory paint was also amazing. &nbsp;All of the car's qualities make up for the fact that is has 135k miles. &nbsp;I'd like to eventually do the Silvia face swap, and SR or RB swap. &nbsp;For this reason the mileage didnt matter as much as the condition of shell and interior. &nbsp;(whats the use of putting a S13 silvia front end on a car that has a bent or rusty frame?).

What I found when looking is that most 1989-1991 coupes or hatch's, decent condition 85k-170k miles......$2,500-$4,500.

1992-1993 coupe or hatch 75k-150k miles......$3,500-$5,500. &nbsp;

Convertibles (1994's) go for $4k-$6k

Also, where you find the car is also a big deal. &nbsp;Florida and California have tons for sale (from what Ive seen). &nbsp;Northern East coast (NY, MA, etc) have alot also. &nbsp;Watch for rust on northern cars....especially ones from states that use salt on their icy roads. &nbsp;Watch for repainted cars. &nbsp;It costs more to paint part of a car (masking off and doing it right, buffing it out to match) than it does to quickly repaint the whole thing. &nbsp;Look for overspray on the springs and under the wheelwell. &nbsp;Look on the rubber weatherstripping under the hatch (or trunk lid) aswell. &nbsp;Check the edged of the taillights also for overspray.

Check the undercarriage for rust, and under the spare tire. &nbsp;Look near the liscense plate mounts and underneath badges. &nbsp;Check all corners of the trunk/hatch for rust also. &nbsp;Check inside the gas hatch. &nbsp;

Look behind the taillights inside and check for bondo. &nbsp;Look to see the fenders are flush with the hood, and the doors. &nbsp;Look to see the doors close flush with the unibody. &nbsp;Check for glued together plastic parts under the hood, including the plastic bumper. &nbsp;Look for ripples in the metal around the radiator mounts. &nbsp;Look at the car's paint job in the light. &nbsp;Shadows will reveal dents or dimples. &nbsp;12o'clock noon won't give a nice shadow, so late afternoon 3-5pm is good. &nbsp;Look to see if the car has what looks to be the origional trim tape.
&nbsp;
Check the electronic connections (plugs, etc) under the hood for rust or corrosion. &nbsp;Could have been in a flood if it has either.

When test driving, get the car up to highway speeds...use all gears, down shift to a stop (if 5 speed). &nbsp;Do this again, and brake heavily this time. &nbsp;Listen for grinding/squeaking, feel pedal for pulsating (warped rotors). &nbsp;Also check reverse gear. &nbsp;

When sharp cornering or quick acceleration/deceleration, listen to see if the body-roll/weight-shift makes the undercarriage clank. &nbsp;If so, the bushings may need replaced (no biggie....but probably a pain to change).

Then check everything else (all switches and knobs). &nbsp;Check that they work, and weren't superglued previously. &nbsp;Make sure hatchback gas struts stay up. &nbsp;Make sure windows open and close without rubbing. &nbsp;Do automatic seatbelts work fine? &nbsp;If noisy, use white lithium grease to lube them. &nbsp;Make sure seats recline and slide.

Thats all i can think of right now.


M

[catfishez]

$4000? sound bad, &nbsp;always remember there are two prices in the collision repair business, insurance price and private party price. case: someone backed into my VW corrado and I took it to 4 separate shops, all bordered around $1k, the other parties insurance send an independent adjuster out and his estimate was about $450.. I was pissed thinking they were screwing me, so I called one of the bodyshops and told him what had happened, he said without &nbsp;missing a beat-&quot;yeah we'll do it for $450&quot; same job, same paint, same hours spent. guess you can't blame them for trying. &nbsp;just a thought

[mbmbmb23]

Heres how insurance claims work. &nbsp;You take your car to 3-4 different places and get estimates from each. &nbsp;Then, the insurance company will average the estimates and cut you a check for that averaged amount. &nbsp;The trick it to take it to the places in town that are known for giving high estimates. &nbsp;You'll get your check, then take it to the cheapest place, and then you can pocket the rest of the money. &nbsp;Some insurance companies send their own adjusters out to look for themselves. &nbsp;These may be low-ball estimates (really bare minimum ones), but they usually will be fairly close.

For $4000 you could find a really nice 93, you just have to know where to look....and HAVE PATIENCE!!!! &nbsp;Get an accurate idea of why each individual seller is offloading his/her 240SX. &nbsp;Did they thrash it? Did they baby it? &nbsp;Was it garaged? &nbsp;Adult driven? &nbsp;Did some rich kid get it handed to him when it was brand new and he trashed it? &nbsp;Figure as much out about the buyer as you can, then make an accurate judgement. &nbsp;Also, be leary if you buy it from a used car dealer...they might make up stuff that you would love to hear (1 owner, never seen snow, garaged, blah blah....)


M

[HKrpS13]

Thanks, but you guys know any place to look for?
any web-sites?

[mbmbmb23]

http://www.cars.com
http://www.autotrader.com
<a href="http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymotors/index.html?ssPageName=ML01

http://www.kbb.com" target="_blank">http://pages.ebay.com/ebaymot....

http</a> &nbsp; - Kelly Blue book &nbsp;(used car price guide)