Another damn n00b-ass fitment question...

[MonkeyWrench]

OK, I read the ENTIRE fitment thread, and got PRETTY close to an answer, but it's hard to gauge S13 vs S14 fitments, and there weren't many examples that "matched" what I have here....

Setup is as follows: S13, coilovers, running roughly 3 degrees all four corners, not slammed but a healthy drop, relocated harnesses, Z32 front brakes, with 2.75" and 3.00" P.J. Bonifacio bolt-on flares (with underlying metal cut out).

18x10-13 and 18x12-4 wheels. Too radical? Close? Just right? Fuck off n00b?

Fuggin math pwns me... :confused:

Thanks in advance.

[Matej]

Should look good, what size tires are you planning on running?

[drift-it]

I doubt you will run those sizes ever, but hey i'd love to be proven wrong.

p.s. whatever you buy in those sizes is gonna be expensive as fuck.

[TheSquidd]

Yeah those'll fit.

http://violentrunning.squidd.org/galleries/d/7370-3/_DSC2434+copy_1.jpg

I'm running

18x9.5 -13 225/35/18 3.5 degrees of camber
18x10.5 +10 225/40/18 4 degrees of camber

stock toe out
stock caster

In front you'll be 6mm more out than I am, and I run 20mm fenders. If you run 235/35/18's stretched onto the 10" rim , you'll fit perfectly. With the fenders you plan on running, you might even be sunk. Spacer to fit.

In rear you'll be 33mm more out than me, and I'm on OEM fenders. That's about 2" difference between me and you with the camber you're running. Easy to fit with 50mm rear fenders. 3" fenders, once again you may be sunk. Space to fit.

What's this car doing? Daily? Grip (hahah yeah right)? Drift?

It will drive like ass I'm guessing. Drifting it would be tough with the insane amount of tire in rear. Dailying will be tough because you'll need to run 35 series tires up front and if it's anything like my car, the 35's make your kidneys feel every bump in the road. If you run 40's or 45's up front, you're going to bend rods and rub fenders.

Gripping the car will be tough just because you're running crazy alignment just to fit these wheels.

Parking the car for pictures will be cool. But you're gonna need to be slammed. On the floor. 18x12 and not scraping frame? Ew.

Might also need to look into tubbing front fenders, getting thin RUCA in rear so it doesn't scrape coil overs, and upgrading your steering components to handle these big ass wheels. I recommend Tein tie rods, SPL ends with bumpsteer adjustment, add in some home made bumpstops so your rack doesn't over-extend with your super low offset wheels and steering angle.

Oh and if you're not SLAMMED on these wheels it's going to look retarded. You need to be about 1/8" of tire showing front and back. Anything less would look retarded. Too aggressive of wheels if you're not going to make them fit.

Just my honest opinions, I'm no wheel scientist or nothing.

Oh and I'm sure you've thought of this , but just a reminder, make sure your wheels will clear your Z brakes. I HAVE to run at least 10mm spacers up front on my wheels just to clear the calipers, which I don't mind but just and FYI.

I doubt you will run those sizes ever, but hey i'd love to be proven wrong.

p.s. whatever you buy in those sizes is gonna be expensive as fuck.

You're an idiot. Worthless post. Exactly why Zilvia sucks half the time is posts like yours that are bitching and moaning and don't add anything to the topic.

[longdy]

lol dang squid dont flame him...lol

-dee

[fliprayzin240sx]

PIX OR BAN!!! You got the fenders on the car already? Pix of the rims? Like Squid said, make sure the face will clear big brakes. Some people forget that shiet sometimes and buy rims wit the most amout of lip. They dont even bother to check caliper clearance.

[drift-it]

do you seriously think this guy is gonna run those wheel sizes? not to hate but how many people run 18x12 -4 in the rear?

he should be shooting for more like 17x9 +0 up front and 17x9.5 +10 or lower in the rear, and running a little amount of neg. camber.

[TheSquidd]

do you seriously think this guy is gonna run those wheel sizes? not to hate but how many people run 18x12 -4 in the rear?

he should be shooting for more like 17x9 +0 up front and 17x9.5 +10 or lower in the rear, and running a little amount of neg. camber.

Sounds to me like the guy has a pretty good idea of what he is and isn't doing.

He's already got his camber setting where it should be for this size wheel, he's invested in some over fenders, and he even read through the entire wheel fitment thread.

17x9 +0 17x9.5 +10? Yay boring. Why do you think he should be "shooting" (not much to shoot for) for these sizes? Do you know what he is going to do with the car? What advantage do these sizes provide him over the 18"s he's looking at for the kind of driving or style he wants to pursue?

People DO run these sizes, just not anyone in America cause they're all chicken shit about fitment. I know a guy that runs 19x11 -30 on s13 chassis. I run 10.5 +18 in my car and I still need spacers! Hell a decent over fender and I'd be sunk with the wheels this guy's talking about.

Who cares if he DOESN'T run them, this is still a valid fitment question, that deserves a VALID answer, not the cry baby crap that seems to be what 90% of Zilvia spews out in tech threads.

You're just jealous you don't have the balls to run sizing like that. (< a joke by the way. I know you actually track your car so sizing like this would be very counter-intuitive to your cause.)

:love:

[MonkeyWrench]

do you seriously think this guy is gonna run those wheel sizes? not to hate but how many people run 18x12 -4 in the rear?

he should be shooting for more like 17x9 +0 up front and 17x9.5 +10 or lower in the rear, and running a little amount of neg. camber.

Why wouldn't I?

Right now, I'm on 17x8.5 / 17x9.5 (approx +25) tucking 275/40/17's in the rear with a flat roll and medium pull / flare, but the "look" of this car is changing... The rest of the car is radical, so it needs some sick-ass rollers.

Squidd, thanks for your input - SUPER helpful. This car is not used for track (it's far from legal for any sanctioning body) and I have a dedicated track car that's "all business", appearance be damned.

It's basically just for enjoyment, cruising, a little "stoplight tango" with unsuspecting chumps, occasional daily driving and "hard parking" at local meets. I'm about twice everyone's age here, so that kinda plays into this decision as well. ;)

Thanks for the heads-up on the changes to the front suspension - some of that is done, some isn't. I'm most concerned about "tubbing" the fronts, as I just can't do that.... Tell me more about the steering rack issues, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around that (the rest makes total sense).

[Bushido]

do yourself a favor and dont buy the PJ bonaficio overfenders. they are so... bubbily... look around at some classic style overfenders and you'll realize how shitty the PJ ones look in comparison. get a set from classic datsun.

[drift-it]

again not to hate but i think buying a 240 and not driving it at the track is a waste, if i saw your car on the street running those sizes i'd be like cool, but if i saw you at the track running those sizes i'd think you were god or something.

*sigh i'm saving for bigger wheels, we all have priorities and i'd rather be doing events and working on driving than have some dope ass ballin car and not know how to drive it.

[arkive43]

to me its gona be your tire sizes that are gona make the diffrence.
i mean your running a 275 on a 9.5 ?!?!? your gona need to streeeach some rubber on those rims with those little flairs.

[MonkeyWrench]

again not to hate but i think buying a 240 and not driving it at the track is a waste, if i saw your car on the street running those sizes i'd be like cool, but if i saw you at the track running those sizes i'd think you were god or something.

*sigh i'm saving for bigger wheels, we all have priorities and i'd rather be doing events and working on driving than have some dope ass ballin car and not know how to drive it.

I think I mentioned I have a dedicated track car.

If you saw me at the track running those sizes and thought I was God, I'd tell you that you really need to pull your head out of your ass, because those wheels don't belong anywhere NEAR a track. :)

Track car runs 275/40/17 Toyo R's on all 4 corners.

Good luck on the savings - I'm fortunate to be a little older and the budget has a little more leeway, but I remember the days of scraping up money for tires for an event!

Bushido - Thanks for the tip - I got the ones for my S30 from Classic Datsun... Someday they'll come out of the box and get bolted on!

[TheSquidd]

Thanks for the heads-up on the changes to the front suspension - some of that is done, some isn't. I'm most concerned about "tubbing" the fronts, as I just can't do that.... Tell me more about the steering rack issues, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around that (the rest makes total sense).

This is what I'm dealing with right now. You have a track car so I imagine you're familiar with a lot of this but just in case:

I'm low, as low as you should be. What this does is causes your tie rods (the rods that control your steering, attached from the rack to the spindles) to go from a straight angle across, to an inclined angle. After you lower you car, look, you'll see it. The steering rack is lower than the spindle's mounting point for the tie rod.

What this does is causes bumpsteer, which from what I know is basically exactly what it sounds like. When you hit bumps in the road, pot holes to small rocks, anything, the bump will cause your wheels to have uneven toe in or out for a moment and it will "steer" your car. Basically every little bump in the road will pull you in different directions. You can live with it if you don't mind it, but it gets real old real fast.

To fix this you'll need a tie rod end with bump steer adjustment such as SPL parts or Peak Performance Pro. Basically they are rod ends that come with spacers and extended shanks, to level out the tie rod so there's no more unevenness.

Also, from having such low offset, heavy, large wheels up front, your car (if it's anything like mine) will "over extend" the steering rack. What this means is the tie rods will push so far during steering that they will go past the furthest point of leverage. Hard to explain without seeing it, but basically the rod is only supposed to go so far before it stops turning your wheels, well now it will go further, too far, and it'll "bind". When binding occurs you run a good chance of bending or breaking tie rods. I bent three so far.

There's quite a few ways to try and fix this.

1. Buy some after market tie rods, typically these are much thicker and stronger than the stock s13 tie rods, which are like pencils. I went with Tein inner tie rods. I hear they are strong, and when they bind they tend to bend not break. A bent tie rod will make you handle funny, a broken tie rod will cause you to crash.

2. Buy or create bump stops. Basically use wood or rubber to stop your tie rods before they bind. This has been done a number of ways, I've even heard of people ziptying a piece of wood around their rods. Whatever works, you'll have to have some ingenuity here since I've never done it yet.

I also went ahead and upgraded to solid steering rack bushings, solid steering rack bushings, and installed a new steering rack while I was at it. These large wheels are going to be abusive on your rack so you might as well make it as strong as possible to begin with.

Rack bushings: www.rhdjapan.com
Column bushing: www.frsport.com

On tubing the fronts, this all depends on your tire size and how low you want to be. If you run a nice, thin, 35 series tire and don't put your car on the floor, you probably won't need to do any tubing. You will probably need to get a BFH (Big fucking hammer) and smash in your fenderwells a good bit. Spend a day driving your car, lock to lock, hard driving, soft driving, see where your tires rub on your wheel wells, and then just hammer the shit out of them until they don't rub anymore.

Some of this you may know, some you may not. I'm learning all this right now as I deal with the step up to 18"s. My situation's a little worse as my 18"s are seeing drifting duty, so there's just a whole lot more to it when you're putting them in action like that.

Tire sizes are going to be key. Ride height is going to be key. You must be flush.

Drift-it, TONS of people buy 240's that don't see the track. Not everyone wants to race every car they own. How is making a really cool car with crazy wheel fitment a waste? I think it's rad. It'd be radder if it was drifting or something but that's not everyone's deal. And like he said, he HAS a track car.

[Bushido]

good shit squidd. this guy knows what he's talking about, listen up!

[WERDdabuilder]

again not to hate but i think buying a 240 and not driving it at the track is a waste
.

its his DAILY DRIVER.

STFU.

[fliprayzin240sx]

again not to hate but i think buying a 240 and not driving it at the track is a waste, if i saw your car on the street running those sizes i'd be like cool, but if i saw you at the track running those sizes i'd think you were god or something.

*sigh i'm saving for bigger wheels, we all have priorities and i'd rather be doing events and working on driving than have some dope ass ballin car and not know how to drive it.

All 240 thats not tracked is a waste??? EX-FUCKING-CUSE ME FOR NOT TRACKING MY SHIET THEN!!! Some of us enjoy our cars as daily driver, who the fuck are you to make that kind of a statement? :fawk2:

[MonkeyWrench]

Eh, it's all good. Doesn't bother me.

At my age, I've heard all the horseshit from ricer retards that can be said. ;)

Now I'm really contemplating those wheels... Sounds like it'll be quite a bit of work, but they'll be sick.

[worangejuice]

go SQUIDD, damn these guys for taken offense to the 2 lines out of the page of info you're helping this guy with.....jeez, dope setup by the way!

[TheSquidd]

Eh, it's all good. Doesn't bother me.

At my age, I've heard all the horseshit from ricer retards that can be said. ;)

Now I'm really contemplating those wheels... Sounds like it'll be quite a bit of work, but they'll be sick.

If your wheels don't take work to make them fit, you shouldn't have bought them.

:bigok:

[MonkeyWrench]

If your wheels don't take work to make them fit, you shouldn't have bought them.

:bigok:

hahaha, I like your thinking.

Shit, EVERYTHING on this car is a little "over-the-top", so no fear of more fabrication.

Plus, I haven't let "MC Hammer" out to play for a while, so it's due.

BTW, looks like I've settled on a different setup: 18x9.5 -15 and 18x11 -25, but if my math is right, and based on Squidd's advice, that's gonna be fine.

[MonkeyWrench]

again not to hate but i think buying a 240 and not driving it at the track is a waste, if i saw your car on the street running those sizes i'd be like cool, but if i saw you at the track running those sizes i'd think you were god or something.

Thanks for the neg rep, Queerbait. :fawkd: