Knock Sensor

[sccrstar011]

Took my car to the shop today and the guys said I need a new knock sensor. The car bogs a little every now and again and sometimes it will idle real rough and then die out. It always starts right back up, and if I rev it the problem goes away for a little bit. Should I replace the knock sensor or look for some other problem?

UPDATE: Problem fixed. Took it to the shop and had them take a look at it. After over a week and a half it's finally fixed. They ended up putting in a new distributor and a MAF to the tune of $826.58.

[johngriff]

Well.

What diagnostic process was used?

Get the fsm for your engine and repeat the testing yourself with a $4 VoltMeter.

[sccrstar011]

I think he just hooked up a snap on computer or something of the sorts. I have the FSM, but with school back in session and this being my DD I don't have a whole lot of time to mess with the car. The knock sensor looks pretty tricky to get to.

[johngriff]

So then what is the point of the post?

Take it back to him, and pay him to replace the knock sensor if you dont have the time.

[sccrstar011]

So then what is the point of the post?

Take it back to him, and pay him to replace the knock sensor if you dont have the time.

I don't want to pay $300 if it isn't what needs to be replaced.

[johngriff]

Then do the aforementioned. Like, I dont know what to tell you, in this world, you either have more time, or more money, usually not both.

[sccrstar011]

Unfortunately I have neither. Thanks for your input though, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and have a new knock sensor installed. Thanks again.

[Sileighty_85]

$300 though! I know the SR is like 140ish? all it does is bolt to the block (SR) I know its a pain in the ass but damn!
try it your self first if ya cant then take it to him

[johngriff]

Well the thing is, he needs to do the full fsm test, usually the knock sensor does not go bad. Its USUALLY the wiring. That is why the test needs to be performed.

[MELLO*SOS]

What diagnostic process was used?

Probably pulled the codes and found a code 34... Your knock sensor is either melted, or most likely, you have a short in the wiring going to the knock sensor. If you're mechanically inclined, either replace the KS and/or wiring yourself... OR if you're tight on money and can use the search engine, find the 1 megohm resistor trick and be done with it.

[sccrstar011]

I found a new knock sensor on ebay for like 60 shipped. I might just have my friend help me put it on, if not the mechanic said it would be about 100 for the labor.

[johngriff]

Well, its held on by 1 bolt.

And all you have to do is torque it with a tourqe wrench per the FSM spec to make sure its on there right.

Thats it.

[sccrstar011]

Do I just need to take the intake manifold off to get to it?

[johngriff]

no, you dont even need to do that iirc.

We are talking about the KA DOHC right?

[projectRDM]

FYI, in thirteen years I've only seen one KA knock sensor go bad, and that was because it melted into a pile of goo from severe overheating. It's almost always bad gas, or a MAF/O2 signal issue. Replacing it is probably a waste of time.

[daryl337]

still, a knock sensor can go out for various reasons. (****retracting this statement so I don't catch any more grief. I admit this statement sounded dumb but wasnt my intention***) . As far as the cost, you are figuring labor, and tax on parts. Depending on the labor rate and the location of the sensor (I went to SR a long time ago so I forgot where the knock sensor is located on the KA) it will probably take a little over an hour to access, as well as diagnostic fees. So 300 isnt an ungodly price is the sensor itself is 140 bucks. That is 160 bucks for them to diagnose it, and replace it.

[johngriff]

still, a knock sensor can go out for various reasons. If that is what the computer comes up with (which is usually a self diagnostic item so it should throw a code) then that is what needs to be replaced. As far as the cost, you are figuring labor, and tax on parts. Depending on the labor rate and the location of the sensor (I went to SR a long time ago so I forgot where the knock sensor is located on the KA) it will probably take a little over an hour to access, as well as diagnostic fees. So 300 isnt an ungodly price is the sensor itself is 140 bucks. That is 160 bucks for them to diagnose it, and replace it.

Yeah you tell russ how it is.

:ugh:

[Dream240]

still, a knock sensor can go out for various reasons. If that is what the computer comes up with (which is usually a self diagnostic item so it should throw a code) then that is what needs to be replaced.

I used to think dumb like you.

Just because you're throwing a knock code doesn't mean it's the sensor. The ECU could be throwing the code for various other reasons like Russ mentioned. Most of the time it is bad gas in the tank.

I'm reinforcing this with my own recent ECU woes. I was getting a 11 and 21 code from my ECU, so I thought like you, and replaced the dist. with the ign. module and crank sensor. Turns out the codes only went away after I replaced the coil, transistor, new cap/rotor, and new plugs. In other words I should have done the appropriate diagnostic per the FSM to zero in on the problem before I replaced the most expensive part of my ign. system.

To the OP, if you got a knock code try refilling your car with 91 octane, then pull your neg(-) battery cable to reset the ECU and drive around for a full tank before re-checking the ECU codes. It just might go away, and it cost you only a full tank of gas.

You have an S13 right? If so, pulling codes is easy, only takes two screwdrivers. Don't take it to a shop and pay them to do what you can do in literally 10 mins.

GL

[projectRDM]

^ Exactly.

Replacing shit just because you have a code for it is absolutely fucking retarded. Integrated systems relate to each other and can trigger codes not normally related based on driving conditions.

Case in point, my Lexus LS400 started running rough and idling low, pulled the codes and got CTS, MAF, TPS, and EGRC codes. The EGR is long gone so that code was normal, but after clearing them out only the CTS came back on. Found it was broken off at the water neck, replaced it for $29.99, fixed the problem. Because the CTS was bad, the car was running the cold fuel map after warmup, running rich and stumbling the engine, triggering the MAF and TPS. Had I been a dumbass and replaced both of them as well (based on the theory that any code requires a new part) I'd be out another $600 for nothing.

Second example, 99 Sebring 2.5l V6 I was working on threw a MAP sensor code, replaced it with a used sensor I nabbed at a yard, did nothing. Turns out the EGR valve had gone bad and was stuck open, allowing heated exhaust air into the intake during warmup to evaporate the fuel, leaning out the engine. Had nothing to do with the MAP sensor at all, but it threw a code because the the EGR's bypass air made it sense a malfunction. Again, I could have paid $139 for a new MAP sensor and still had the same problem after replacing it.

So to go back to the original topic, I'd highly doubt the knock sensor is bad, and even if the code comes up that does not mean to replace it for the hell of it. Diagnose and fix the problem correctly. Just throwing new parts at an engine out of sheer boredom is NOT the solution.

[sccrstar011]

My car is a 95 ka24de completely stock except an air intake that came on the car. I've been running premium in it for about 6 months now. I did check the ECU on my own and it gave me Knock Sensor. I just replaced the front 02 sensor a few months ago.
R240NA- You have any ideas of what I should look for?

[johngriff]

Get the fsm for your engine and repeat the testing yourself with a $4 VoltMeter.

:bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok: :bigok:
:naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty: :naughty:

You must spread some reputation around before giving it to R240NA again.

[daryl337]

well I put my statement out there with the impression that there was a proper diagnosis on this and the knock sensor is indeed faulty. Of course if diagnosis isnt performed then you might want to do it yourself. but the pricing still stands. So before you call me a fuckin retard you may want to re-read my statement with the new knowledge that I was mostly talking about the cost of diagnosis. As for the shop, most shops dont just throw a code and replace. MOST shops with any reputation use service manual programs like alldata to give them procedures to diagnose a fault code. Point your finger up your own ass in this situation k thx. :)

[sccrstar011]

well I put my statement out there with the impression that there was a proper diagnosis on this and the knock sensor is indeed faulty. Of course if diagnosis isnt performed then you might want to do it yourself. but the pricing still stands. So before you call me a fuckin retard you may want to re-read my statement with the new knowledge that I was mostly talking about the cost of diagnosis. As for the shop, most shops dont just throw a code and replace. MOST shops with any reputation use service manual programs like alldata to give them procedures to diagnose a fault code. Point your finger up your own ass in this situation k thx. :)

Yeah I read my codes before I went to the shop. When they read them I guess I was hoping they would be able to tell me more than what I already knew. Waste of $30....oh well live and learn. Thanks for your input though.

[Dream240]

well I put my statement out there with the impression that there was a proper diagnosis on this and the knock sensor is indeed faulty. Of course if diagnosis isnt performed then you might want to do it yourself. but the pricing still stands. So before you call me a fuckin retard you may want to re-read my statement with the new knowledge that I was mostly talking about the cost of diagnosis. As for the shop, most shops dont just throw a code and replace. MOST shops with any reputation use service manual programs like alldata to give them procedures to diagnose a fault code. Point your finger up your own ass in this situation k thx. :)

Wow, wow touchy! If you re-read my post I only quoted one part of your post. The dumb part. You're defending the wrong statement. I don't disagree that diagnostics cost money, that's obvious.

And saying dumb comments isn't the same as being a fucking retard (why do I hear this alot lately on Zilvia? Must be teh new ghey :ghey: )

well I put my statement out there with the impression that there was a proper diagnosis on this and the knock sensor is indeed faulty.

And what in your mind is the proper diagnostic procedure? I don't know if you actually read the FSM but, pulling codes is only the first step to a proper diagnostic. The codes just tells you where to start. I don't know how many times I've pulled one code only to find that I have a completely different component failing but it is a component that is related to the code part. What I'm trying to tell the OP is that just getting a code doesn't tell you 100% that you have the problem figured out. And he's stating that the tech pulled codes and told him he needs a new knock sensor....that's a bad diagnositc if I've ever seen one.

And to be honest MOST shops do this, for the simple fact that it's easier to get a result and get paid than to actually do all the steps that require a tech to think.

Oh and for the record....ALLDATA is crap. Overrated, glorified crap. The FSM is all you need, well that and your common sense.

[Sir]

Shop is there to make money. They will fix the problem even if it takes all the money you have!!!!
Pay them $300 bux, get it done, just dont start a threat how a shop ripped you off because they didn't fix your car

[daryl337]

Wow, wow touchy! If you re-read my post I only quoted one part of your post. The dumb part. You're defending the wrong statement. I don't disagree that diagnostics cost money, that's obvious.

And saying dumb comments isn't the same as being a fucking retard (why do I hear this alot lately on Zilvia? Must be teh new ghey :ghey: )



And what in your mind is the proper diagnostic procedure? I don't know if you actually read the FSM but, pulling codes is only the first step to a proper diagnostic. The codes just tells you where to start. I don't know how many times I've pulled one code only to find that I have a completely different component failing but it is a component that is related to the code part. What I'm trying to tell the OP is that just getting a code doesn't tell you 100% that you have the problem figured out. And he's stating that the tech pulled codes and told him he needs a new knock sensor....that's a bad diagnositc if I've ever seen one.

And to be honest MOST shops do this, for the simple fact that it's easier to get a result and get paid than to actually do all the steps that require a tech to think.

Oh and for the record....ALLDATA is crap. Overrated, glorified crap. The FSM is all you need, well that and your common sense.



I am sorry if you think I am being touchy, but when you open a post with "I used to think dumb like you" that is pretty much insulting. I agree, if there is no diagnosis then there should be diagnosis done. Perhaps I mis-read the op's post and thought that they had diagnosed the problem, and then was quick to jump the gun when I read the reply saying that R240na doubts it to be the knock sensor because he has only seen 1 go out before. So if I came across abrasive then you have my apologies. I am glad that we all agree diagnosis is important.

But just to prove a point ;)
I dont know what kind of shops you deal with, but MOST shops follow a procedure around here. You can knock on prog's like alldata all you want but in reality they pretty much give you the information you need to do a proper diagnosis. I am (at this very moment) looking at the procedures now for an egr code on a KA24E and the diagnostic instructions are literally scanned from what appears to be a FSM. If it is not one, then the instructions are just as detailed. So where you get the notion that all data is crap is probably either A) uninvestigated or B) your personal opinion which really passes over the reality of the situation. I am not saying that ALL mechanics are pro's and use the necessary equipment. But just like you should not be doing your own machine work if you dont know what you are doing, there are some things that are better left to the people who have the tools. In this case, sure if he sits himself down with a FSM it should eventually lead him to where he needs to be, but chances are he doesnt have all of the necessary equipment or the knowledge to know where to look.

and in response to the idea that shops are there to scam people into spending more money... you need to find better shops.
I personally took my Lexus ES300 in to a shop for them to scan a code for me since I havent purchased my own OBD2 reader yet (my first 0bd2 car), and the initial diagnosis was the EGR system. Of course at that time they asked if they can do diagnosis which meant they had to go through the procedures listed. The cause? The ported vacuum switch. Cost? 300 bucks. That included the 80 dollar price tag on the part, a coolant flush, oil change, diagnosis, and labor. Are you telling me that the shop replaced all of the egr
system one by one in the manner you are speaking about for 300 bucks? I don't think so. An efficient shop that makes money doesnt do it by throwing parts at a car. As a matter of fact, most shops try to UNDERCUT the recommended repair time suggested, so they would rather do a proper diagnosis the first time around and fix the problem, then charge you for the amount of time the repair "suggests". In doing so, they increase the revenuie per hour spent on the vehicle, which is really where the money is at.

Of course there is always going to be exceptions to the rule, there are always going to be shady/under qualified shops out there. dont like them? take it somewhere else.

[projectRDM]

I'll add only one thing here, a ported vacuum switch retails at $34.99. They still got you a little.

[Dream240]

You can knock on prog's like alldata all you want but in reality they pretty much give you the information you need to do a proper diagnosis. I am looking at the procedures now for an egr code on a KA24E and the diagnostic instructions are literally scanned from a FSM. So where you get the notion that all data is crap is probably either A) uninvestigated or B) your personal opinion which really passes over the reality of the situation.

HAHA!!! EXACTLY!! You just supported my statement. ALLDATA is crap because all it is, is a scan of the FSM!!! Which you can get online for free for the 240, and I'm sure most other cars if you know where to look. And IIRC ALLDATA costs about 300 bucks for the latest car update discs. Not to mention their interface is junk. I hate the way the search function works makes you have to search through too much stuff even when you put in a specific thing. Makes me feel like I'm web surfing for my answer.

And what's the reality of the situation? That:
(A) This guy obviously doesn't own ALLDATA, and why should he?
(B) He most likely has downloaded an FSM which is all he needs, FOR FREE.
(C) I'm trying to help him avoid paying more money to a shop that, in accordance with his last post, basically ripped him off, by not giving him any more info than he already had on his own.

While trying to stay on point, the OP sounds frustrated with the fact that his local shop apparently either lacks the knowledge or motivation to help him with his problem. They are falling under the already established, poor service tech scenario.

I personally took my Lexus ES300 in to a shop for them to scan a code for me since I havent purchased my own OBD2 reader yet (my first 0bd2 car), and the initial diagnosis was the EGR system. Of course at that time they asked if they can do diagnosis which meant they had to go through the procedures listed. The cause? The ported vacuum switch. Cost? 300 bucks. That included the 80 dollar price tag on the part, a coolant flush, oil change, diagnosis, and labor.

So you mean to tell me that you went in there for a simple code pull, assuming that you were going to do the req'd repairs yourself since you plan on buying an OBD-2 scanner. And ended up leaving $300 lighter cause you let them sucker you into a coolant flush, oil change, and labor to change out a switch? $80 for the part and you could have done all that other stuff on your own in the comfort of your own garage for free!!

C'mon man don't tell me you feel that if you read what you just posted as if it was someone else's example that you wouldn't automatically think the guy got schooled for 3 bills?

And while I'm sure there are competent techs out there (I used to be one), for the most part you will run into the average tech/shop that is really out to make money. The will always give you the guise that they are your automobile saviour. Wake up, it's how the game is played.

EDIT: alright daryl337...don't go back and edit your last post without stating so. That's just plain stupid. If you didn't agree with your own post then you shouldn't have submitted it. You can't reverse "pwnage". This debate is over if you're not gonna play fair. :mad:

[sccrstar011]

So I'm still waiting on the knock sensor to get here, but haven't yet decided whether or not I am going to take it to that shop to have it replaced. I ran some seafoam through the air line that goes to the IACV hoping that would clean that out a little as well as changing the fuel filter. Seems to have helped a little, but it still acts up some. My friend who used to own the car (and used to be a mechanic) is gonna stop by tomorrow and hopefully help me out some. Hopefully he can help me with the voltage meter to run some diagnostic tests as I don't know how to use a voltage meter.

[Dream240]

Hopefully he can help me with the voltage meter to run some diagnostic tests as I don't know how to use a voltage meter.

Yes this is a definite must. Learn to use one. It's a mandatory tool when diagnosing your car. If you end up buying one, head over to Harbor Freight, they have a great unit for 20 bucks that has all necessary settings, plus an audio continuity tester...my best friend.

GL

[sccrstar011]

Yeah my neighbor actually lost his voltage meter so he bought a new one and when he found his old one he gave me the new one. So I have one, I just haven't had time to sit down and learn how to use it. I need a Saturday. hah

[daryl337]

I edited the post and retracted the statement out of courtesy to you. But if you want to continue this flame war, we can go on. Or I can re-edit the post back if it makes you feel better.

You stated alldata was crap as if it was a tool that shops use that is incompetant compared to a FSM. I myself am also an ex-tech and I was reviewing your notion of alldata and was defending its competency.
Secondly, im sure that the customer doesnt have alldata.
I never said he did, or that he should use that instead of a FSM. I was talking about the shops.
Lastly, I actually had the shops do the coolant flush and eng oil change, I wasnt suckered into a thing. I see how you may think I got suckered, and in terms of symantics with my arguments you obviously have the keener eye for finding items to nit-pick at. But fact of the matter is, I went there because I myself am fine with not having to go through the diagnosis procedure of a motor I am not familiar with myself, and while he is at it I might as well get a warranty on the work. Im lazy if the vehicle does not interest me. I personally hate working on lexus's, and always have. They are a pain in the ass and their emissions systems are actually interlinked with your brake switch. Go figure.

I am glad that you want to save him money, as I would expect the same, however this whole war started over a statement that I made which admittedly was the wrong thing to say since I made some assumptions.

However your current argument which has oddly digressed to whether or not the customer has all data is simply retarded.


Your opinion off alldata is irrelevant to the competancy of the program itself. Sure it costs money to buy, but there are people out there paying 100 bucks for a hardback copy of the FSM for 1 car! For a shop alldata works fine, and it isnt the programs fault that you can't figure out how to use the search function.

[daryl337]

Yes this is a definite must. Learn to use one. It's a mandatory tool when diagnosing your car. If you end up buying one, head over to Harbor Freight, they have a great unit for 20 bucks that has all necessary settings, plus an audio continuity tester...my best friend.

GL

To be nice for a change, this is more than a must.

I actually think I might have the same tester from harbor frieght. Big ass yellow one with a black face and rubber grips? I think it was 45 bucks when I bought it though. It is one of the better investments you can make.
Also invest in an analog one as well so you can read narrowband o2 sensor outputs, since the electronic ones have a hard time getting the signal fast enough.

**EDIT** (so I dont get any tears I had to announce it)


Sccr.. sorry if it seems like we are thread hi-jacking. My opinion is that if you are up to the job go ahead and try it.. but if at any time you feel like it is over your head, keep in mind what I have said... not all shops are out to screw you. To be a mechanic all you really need is experience to start, and knowledge of how things work. If you dont know, and you find that the FSM gets you confused for some reason, don't sweat it. I was just under the impression that you did not know how to diagnose, and I felt that the rate they were asking to fix your problem wasnt near the rape that people were claiming it to be. Good luck to you.

[Dream240]

I edited the post and retracted the statement out of courtesy to you. But if you want to continue this flame war, we can go on. Or I can re-edit the post back if it makes you feel better.

ha ha , oh daryl....you're so nice. Thanks for being so courteous. I could honestly care less whether you're comments were rude or not. As you can see I have not gone back to change my statements at all. Yeah I'm a dick. So what? And it isn't considered a war unless both parties are getting flamed...I'm sorry to say but you're the only one here needing a some burn cream.

And I really hate it when people get desperate and ADD to someone else's comments...like so:

Oh and for the record....ALLDATA is crap. Overrated, glorified crap. The FSM is all you need, well that and your common sense.

You quoting me: "You stated alldata was crap as if it was a tool that shops use that is incompetant compared to a FSM. "

Need I say more? I love how you throw that little extra on the end. I never said it was incompentant when compared to the FSM, I said IT IS THE FSM!!! So my point being, why pay for something that you can get for free? At the very least if you are too lazy to search for the FSM online, buy the copied disc off ebay for like $15.

ALLDATA is not the only product out there for shops to use. I personally prefer ONDemand5 for shop use as long as I'm not paying for it. The labor cost breakdowns accompanied with complete FSMs really makes quoting a job cake.

With regards to your endless defense of the sinking ship that is ALLDATA.... if it makes you feel better. You can defend it all you want, you like it, I don't. And I'm sure I'm not the only one here on Zilvia that feels that way.

But fact of the matter is, I went there because I myself am fine with not having to go through the diagnosis procedure of a motor I am not familiar with myself, and while he is at it I might as well get a warranty on the work. Im lazy if the vehicle does not interest me. I personally hate working on lexus's, and always have. They are a pain in the ass and their emissions systems are actually interlinked with your brake switch.

I'm confused, you hate working on Lexus'...but you're planning on buying an OBD-II system analyzer which cost around 300 bucks for a nice one. Why? So you can say you own one? Seems like a waste on money if you're not even going to use it to SAVE you money by doing your own repairs. And since you say you're lazy and the Lexus doesn't interest you then why the purchase?

Well anyways it's been fun but I'm kinda tired from picking apart your statements like Manning did to the Bears secondary last year. Have fun buying equipment you're never going to use and keeping your local shops in business. Besides this thread has taken a huge detour off-topic, and quite frankly I'm bored.

[daryl337]

Oh and for the record....ALLDATA is crap. Overrated, glorified crap. The FSM is all you need, well that and your common sense.


Oh noes, you said alldata is crap and the fsm is what you need?
If you want to play symantecs, I can play too. What do you think people were going to think when you posted THIS dumb statement?
You can call it what you want, but I was actually referring to your original "flame".

I personally dont feel that your "flames" were much of "flames" as a matter of fact I spent half the time trying to clarify my own statements to make it easier for you to understand because your "flames" were flaming subjects that I was not arguing in the first place. Enjoy your victory over nothing.

As for the code scanner, they are handy to have, and I may one day find a use for one. People do have friends (atleast I do), and more often than not I work on other people's cars for them. Is it wrong to further my own personal collection of tools? I was also thinking of investing in a lab scope that does not have DIS capabilities, does this mean that I am wrong for wanting to do so?

The fact of the matter is, I took the lexus there because to me, the electronics on the vehicle is more of a hassle to diagnose than it is worth. When you start integrating emissions systems into driver functions then the branch of failures can go on and on. So instead of taking time out of my day to do diagnosis down the list, I was easily opted to say "fuck it, go ahead and fix it". I could have easily taken the vehicle out of the shop and gone at it alone, but I would rather use my personal time to be doing something else, and 300 dollars was a price I was willing to pay for my free time. Of course if it was a motor that I knew in and out such as my SR, I would have gave the big F.U and done it myself, but that was not the case. Does this mean that I am stupid because I didnt take it on myself? No, it means at the time, I was lazy, and the price was right.

Now: presently we are in a situation where you think you feel the need to flame me over a stupid statement that I agreed to take back, I made some assumptions and I was wrong for it. I think even the OP sees that. I don't know why you are too ignorant to do the same. take your "victory" off to your loving wife and hop up and down like I am assuming you want to do at this point, because it was a stupid argument to begin with.

[Dream240]

....a stupid statement that I agreed to take back, I made some assumptions and I was wrong for it.

ah....that's all I wanted to hear. Music to my ears.

I didn't hurt your auto savvy feelings did I? :cry:

ME=WIN :D

Winning is what I'm all about....

someone lock this please.....it's a dead thread.

[sccrstar011]

Sccr.. sorry if it seems like we are thread hi-jacking. My opinion is that if you are up to the job go ahead and try it.. but if at any time you feel like it is over your head, keep in mind what I have said... not all shops are out to screw you. To be a mechanic all you really need is experience to start, and knowledge of how things work. If you dont know, and you find that the FSM gets you confused for some reason, don't sweat it. I was just under the impression that you did not know how to diagnose, and I felt that the rate they were asking to fix your problem wasnt near the rape that people were claiming it to be. Good luck to you.

Thanks. Yeah I don't really think that $100 for labor to put the knock sensor is all that bad, I just don't want them to throw that on and be like....well dang that didn't fix it, lets try something else. BTW I got the knock sensor in the mail today....wow that's a little piece of plastic and metal for $60....and to think the shop was gonna charge me autozone's retail of $260.

[daryl337]

haha, dream, you are a character. :D No, no feelings hurt, i just kind of saw the futility in the whole thing.

sccr, definately pick up some tools though. You may want to get those volt meters we were talking about, and pick up some reference material and have at it.

[sccrstar011]

Yeah I have some tools and what I don't have my neighbor has. My friend is bringing his craftsman volt meter with him and some other tools. I have the FSM on my computer so hopefully we are set for tomorrow. I'll let you guys know if we find anything, or lean on you if we run into anything. Again thanks for all the positive input. This is the first time on Zilvia someone hasn't neg repped me for not being "up to par" in my knowledge of 240's.

[sccrstar011]

Alright so today was frustrating. Pulled the knock sensor and tested it with the volt meter. It was still good. Had a big crack in it though, so I put the new one on. After 4 hours I finally had the car back together. Started it up and it still does the same thing. I took it out for a drive a few mins ago and it still bogs randomly and the idle will drop and cut the car off when I push the clutch in, or am at a light. When I got back home I checked the ECU again to see what it was saying it gave me the 55 everything is okay. What should I look for now? Oh I almost forgot. If I let is sit and idle for awhile then rev it a little white smoke comes out the exhaust.

[daryl337]

white smoke = burning antifreeze.

You probably have a head gasket failure.

[johngriff]

daryl

No. This is a condition of the knock sensor fault.

Look, same fault same code, and he found his issue on the ecm pin connector.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1515890

The man who I apprenticed under when i was 14 told me this.

"When you speak, everyone knows how dumb you are"

"When you stay silent, everyone wonders how smart you are"

[Dream240]

Hey John, I think that link was for a totally different guy. Unless he had his friend post for him for some strange reason.

If it's the same guy then cool. And yeah continuity is very misleading. Gotta always remember to check the voltage when checking continuity to make sure wires are good.

I had a melted wire once in my TPS wiring. The req'd test for continuity worked but the sensor was still reading wrong. Turns out I had only 2V going through the voltage test, not the req'd 5v. Found the melt and replaced the bad section of wire, ran great after that.

Thanks for stressing the importance of wire testing. Peace.

[daryl337]

I think john was trying to make the point that a knock sensor code will show up if continuity is broken in the harness, which we all know to be true. It was a stab at me which I had already approved. :)