dwadia
07-29-2007, 10:18 AM
A couple of months ago the engine in my 240 (an SR) seized and needed replacement. I have just spent over $4500 on this repair! The car has a newly installed sr20det redtop with almost all of the upgraded parts from the old engine transferred over to the new one, and a brand new clutch as well. Due to the cost of this repair I absolutely MUST sell the car now. I’ve put less than 500 miles on the new SR since installation.
This car was never driven much by me, and its condition is really nice for its age. It is reliable and comfortable enough to be a daily driver, but still extremely fast and the handling is awesome! The interior of this car is in nice shape. I did not intend to sacrifice any comforts in this car. The exterior looks nice, some minor scratches and imperfections here and there as one would expect for a 12-year old car, but overall I’d say a 7/10. The worst of it is some paint chips on the hood, which are all small, and some scrapes on the bottom of the front bumper. I wanted to keep it looking stock so it doesn’t attract much attention, and I think I was successful in this respect – the muffler would never make someone look twice, the bodywork is stock, and you can’t even see the intercooler! Also, the body is exceptionally rust-free and clean, especially underneath. This is one thing about the car that really impressed me.
The parts and “service” (including modification) records for this car are well-kept and thorough. I have receipts for pretty much everything that was done to it or bought for it, as well as mileage records of wearable parts.
I’m looking to get $9,900. This price is a LOT lower than what I was hoping to get a couple months ago, but it has to go now so I’m taking a big loss on it. I’m opened to REASONABLE offers only. I will keep the car and bide my time before I let this go at much more of a loss than I’m already taking. Many people have inquired about trades so I want to address that here. I really need cash. The only type of trade I would consider is a partial trade of a low-value, small, economical daily driver (Sentra, Altima, stock 240, Integra, etc) in mechanically solid shape. Just please understand that the majority of the payment will need to be in cash, not a trade.
PLEASE SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY! Just because someone comes to see the car doesn’t mean I’ll be letting them drive it if they’re not ready and able to purchase it.
Modifications
Engine:
SR20DET Redtop
GT3071R ball bearing turbo (ceramic coated exhaust housing)
Tial 38mm waste gate
JWT Z32 (300zx twin turbo) pop charger
Z32 MAF meter
HKS Type-S intercooler
GReddy intake manifold
Nismo 740cc injectors
Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Fuel pressure gauge
Enthalpy Rom tuned ECU
HKS SSQV blow off valve with recirc. tube
Custom full 3” exhaust – Peak Boost exhaust manifold, down pipe, and waste gate dump tube (ceramic coated). Downpipe has o2 sensor bung welded into it (with new o2 sensor installed) and w.g. dump tube is welded back into the main stream of exhaust to keep it from being excessively loud. There is a flowmaster muffler in place of the cat, and the catback portion was originally a Blitz Nurspec but has a custom muffler welded onto it. Looks almost stock, sounds mellow and throaty (not too loud), and has great flow.
Cooling:
Koyo aluminum radiator
Koyo 1.3 bar radiator cap
Dual Flex-a-Lite fans
Redline water wetter
Drivetrain:
B&M short throw shifter
F1 Racing 6-puck clutch (brand new!!)
Cusco RS 2-way LSD
Brakes and wheels:
Z23 (300zx tt) 17/16” master cylinder
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Z32 front and rear calipers w/ Hawk HPS pads
Brembo slotted Z32 calipers front and rear
Stainless steel brake lines
Fully functional parking brake (uses Skyline R33 cable)
300zx TT wheels – 16x7.5 front, 16x8.5 rear
300zx 25mm hub-centric front wheel spacers
300zx spare tire
Suspension:
KYB AGX adjustable shocks
Eibach Pro-kit springs
Project Mu front camber plates
Tein TC rods
Tunabe adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
Tunabe front and rear sway bars
Cusco front and rear strut tower braces
Aluminum rear sub-frame bushings
Electronics:
High-output 140 amp alternator (to adequately power fans)
Optima Yellow-Top battery
Avital alarm and remote starter with turbo timer feature(by same company that makes Viper alarms)
Blitz DTT turbo timer and digital boost gauge
HKS EVC-IV boost controller (mounted in ash tray, not visible when closed)
Autometer Cobalt water temp gauge
Interior:
Corbeau TRS seats
Momo 3-point harness (installed on driver’s side only)
Nismo leather shift knob
Miscellaneous:
Power windows
Sunroof
Air conditioning (working but needs to be charged)
*Power steering cooler
*Cruise Control (hardware installed, needs to have wiring finished)
*Consult Port (functional)
*The previous owner gave me this information, but I have never looked into it myself so I can’t guarantee that it’s accurate.
More Info…
The previous owner of this car dyno’d it at 426 rwhp on 26 psi boost with race fuel. He was using almost the exact same set-up as the car has now. The only major difference I can see between the previous engine and the current one is that the previous engine had JWT S4 cams, while this one’s cams are stock. Since the new engine has been installed, I’ve been taking it very easy – most of the time just running wastegate boost – and the high boost setting is only around 12.5 psi. However, if you want more power I’ve been told by several tuners that the car can safely run at 18 psi on pump fuel (probably more, but I think dyno tuning is important to be safe beyond that). At 18 psi I’d estimate the car makes well over 300 whp, which on a car this light is already VERY fast.
There are several parts that will be included free of charge to the buyer upon request. These include the stock front seats and brackets, stock radiator, stock SR alternator and a spare transmission.
If any of these parts are desired, I’ll fit them in the car if possible when it’s shipped or picked up. Otherwise the buyer will be responsible for either pick-up or paying for shipping of the parts (the very large parts such as the seats and transmission are pick-up only, no shipping).
Problems
The radiator fan controller is not working, but there is a switch by the shifter to manually turn the fans on and off. Generally I just leave them on around town and off when driving on the highway. I think this can be fixed very quickly and easily if you’re comfortable with basic wiring (I have the instructions). I’ve just opted to use the switch in the cabin for now.
The idle has a tendency to dip low when letting off the throttle and stepping on the clutch. I never have it stall because I tap the throttle, but it’s possible when first getting used to it. The idle can be raised a bit to counteract this if it’s a problem. It happens because the car runs rich at idle, which I believe is necessary to keep it from becoming too lean under boost. The “proper” solution would be to get an electronic fuel controller such as an Apexi SAFC so it can be leaned out at idle without leaning out the higher rpm’s, and of course then it would need a dyno tuning, but for me it runs fine as-is so I haven’t bothered.
One of the front springs is not in its perch and makes a spring-snap sound when the wheel is turned a lot at a low speed (such as when parking or a 90* turn). I had it looked at and was told the strut has to come out to fix it, but it’s not a problem, won’t cause any damage, and can be left alone and used until whenever it’s convenient to address it.
If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. You can contact me at [email protected] ([email protected]).
This car was never driven much by me, and its condition is really nice for its age. It is reliable and comfortable enough to be a daily driver, but still extremely fast and the handling is awesome! The interior of this car is in nice shape. I did not intend to sacrifice any comforts in this car. The exterior looks nice, some minor scratches and imperfections here and there as one would expect for a 12-year old car, but overall I’d say a 7/10. The worst of it is some paint chips on the hood, which are all small, and some scrapes on the bottom of the front bumper. I wanted to keep it looking stock so it doesn’t attract much attention, and I think I was successful in this respect – the muffler would never make someone look twice, the bodywork is stock, and you can’t even see the intercooler! Also, the body is exceptionally rust-free and clean, especially underneath. This is one thing about the car that really impressed me.
The parts and “service” (including modification) records for this car are well-kept and thorough. I have receipts for pretty much everything that was done to it or bought for it, as well as mileage records of wearable parts.
I’m looking to get $9,900. This price is a LOT lower than what I was hoping to get a couple months ago, but it has to go now so I’m taking a big loss on it. I’m opened to REASONABLE offers only. I will keep the car and bide my time before I let this go at much more of a loss than I’m already taking. Many people have inquired about trades so I want to address that here. I really need cash. The only type of trade I would consider is a partial trade of a low-value, small, economical daily driver (Sentra, Altima, stock 240, Integra, etc) in mechanically solid shape. Just please understand that the majority of the payment will need to be in cash, not a trade.
PLEASE SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY! Just because someone comes to see the car doesn’t mean I’ll be letting them drive it if they’re not ready and able to purchase it.
Modifications
Engine:
SR20DET Redtop
GT3071R ball bearing turbo (ceramic coated exhaust housing)
Tial 38mm waste gate
JWT Z32 (300zx twin turbo) pop charger
Z32 MAF meter
HKS Type-S intercooler
GReddy intake manifold
Nismo 740cc injectors
Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Fuel pressure gauge
Enthalpy Rom tuned ECU
HKS SSQV blow off valve with recirc. tube
Custom full 3” exhaust – Peak Boost exhaust manifold, down pipe, and waste gate dump tube (ceramic coated). Downpipe has o2 sensor bung welded into it (with new o2 sensor installed) and w.g. dump tube is welded back into the main stream of exhaust to keep it from being excessively loud. There is a flowmaster muffler in place of the cat, and the catback portion was originally a Blitz Nurspec but has a custom muffler welded onto it. Looks almost stock, sounds mellow and throaty (not too loud), and has great flow.
Cooling:
Koyo aluminum radiator
Koyo 1.3 bar radiator cap
Dual Flex-a-Lite fans
Redline water wetter
Drivetrain:
B&M short throw shifter
F1 Racing 6-puck clutch (brand new!!)
Cusco RS 2-way LSD
Brakes and wheels:
Z23 (300zx tt) 17/16” master cylinder
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Z32 front and rear calipers w/ Hawk HPS pads
Brembo slotted Z32 calipers front and rear
Stainless steel brake lines
Fully functional parking brake (uses Skyline R33 cable)
300zx TT wheels – 16x7.5 front, 16x8.5 rear
300zx 25mm hub-centric front wheel spacers
300zx spare tire
Suspension:
KYB AGX adjustable shocks
Eibach Pro-kit springs
Project Mu front camber plates
Tein TC rods
Tunabe adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
Tunabe front and rear sway bars
Cusco front and rear strut tower braces
Aluminum rear sub-frame bushings
Electronics:
High-output 140 amp alternator (to adequately power fans)
Optima Yellow-Top battery
Avital alarm and remote starter with turbo timer feature(by same company that makes Viper alarms)
Blitz DTT turbo timer and digital boost gauge
HKS EVC-IV boost controller (mounted in ash tray, not visible when closed)
Autometer Cobalt water temp gauge
Interior:
Corbeau TRS seats
Momo 3-point harness (installed on driver’s side only)
Nismo leather shift knob
Miscellaneous:
Power windows
Sunroof
Air conditioning (working but needs to be charged)
*Power steering cooler
*Cruise Control (hardware installed, needs to have wiring finished)
*Consult Port (functional)
*The previous owner gave me this information, but I have never looked into it myself so I can’t guarantee that it’s accurate.
More Info…
The previous owner of this car dyno’d it at 426 rwhp on 26 psi boost with race fuel. He was using almost the exact same set-up as the car has now. The only major difference I can see between the previous engine and the current one is that the previous engine had JWT S4 cams, while this one’s cams are stock. Since the new engine has been installed, I’ve been taking it very easy – most of the time just running wastegate boost – and the high boost setting is only around 12.5 psi. However, if you want more power I’ve been told by several tuners that the car can safely run at 18 psi on pump fuel (probably more, but I think dyno tuning is important to be safe beyond that). At 18 psi I’d estimate the car makes well over 300 whp, which on a car this light is already VERY fast.
There are several parts that will be included free of charge to the buyer upon request. These include the stock front seats and brackets, stock radiator, stock SR alternator and a spare transmission.
If any of these parts are desired, I’ll fit them in the car if possible when it’s shipped or picked up. Otherwise the buyer will be responsible for either pick-up or paying for shipping of the parts (the very large parts such as the seats and transmission are pick-up only, no shipping).
Problems
The radiator fan controller is not working, but there is a switch by the shifter to manually turn the fans on and off. Generally I just leave them on around town and off when driving on the highway. I think this can be fixed very quickly and easily if you’re comfortable with basic wiring (I have the instructions). I’ve just opted to use the switch in the cabin for now.
The idle has a tendency to dip low when letting off the throttle and stepping on the clutch. I never have it stall because I tap the throttle, but it’s possible when first getting used to it. The idle can be raised a bit to counteract this if it’s a problem. It happens because the car runs rich at idle, which I believe is necessary to keep it from becoming too lean under boost. The “proper” solution would be to get an electronic fuel controller such as an Apexi SAFC so it can be leaned out at idle without leaning out the higher rpm’s, and of course then it would need a dyno tuning, but for me it runs fine as-is so I haven’t bothered.
One of the front springs is not in its perch and makes a spring-snap sound when the wheel is turned a lot at a low speed (such as when parking or a 90* turn). I had it looked at and was told the strut has to come out to fix it, but it’s not a problem, won’t cause any damage, and can be left alone and used until whenever it’s convenient to address it.
If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask. You can contact me at [email protected] ([email protected]).