shake at 55 mph

[big302]

Got a 94 240sx convert. Has 67K on it. Car gets a vibration from 50-60 mph, but is gone at every other speed. You can feel it in the steering wheel, and it seems to be coming from front driver wheel area. Car had the issue with oem wheels, and the tires were junk, so i figured had a bad tire. Thought that was as good as any reason to update to some nicer wheels. Put on new 17" wheels and rubber. Problem still there. I have heard this problem mentioned before, but it never seems like it has been answered. Thanks.

[los_inc]

tension rods, maybe an alignment?
-los

[3-240's-N-aMule]

Get an alignment sir.

[steve shadows]

balding front tires due to awkward toe.

I just replaced my tires, no more shaking

[swayray]

check the balance on your fronts tires.... take it to a tire shop to have them rebalanced....

[300hp owen]

noticed the same problem this weekend after putting on brand new tires on new wheels and theyre hubcentric so it shouldnt be the wheels but maybe the tires were not balanced properly (doubt it!).

guess I'll get it aligned and check the tension rods and joints for slop but its weird, sounds like the same problem you are having... it was barely noticeable with stock wheels/tires but now it is obvious and its a pita to drive it on the highway with the steering wheel shaking a bit. my car wanders a little so maybe it just needs an alignment but maybe something in the suspension is worn out.

[slider2828]

Did you guys ever look at the Nissan Tech Bulletins about wearing out steering pre-load spring?

I have had a problem with an intermittent steering wheel shimmy on the highway. I've had the wheels and tires balanced on a Hunter GSP9700 and performed an alignment. All the front end suspension is new and bushings are all poly. The 15mm wheel spacers have 66.06mm hubcentric rings and so everything should be good, right? Wrong..

I then read a TSB that documents the spring in the steering rack that adjusts the pre-load causes a shimmy at highway speeds. If the spring is not pre-loaded enough (worn out), the wheel will shimmy at 55mph + and steering feel loose over potholes etc..

So I contacted Abby Nissan here and got the spring in and with a little fumbling I got the spring installed and fixed the highway shimmy! It drives like a Caddy now, as long as there's no bumps

So, here is a list of tools you'll need:

- Spring P/N 48237-10V02
- 12mm wrench with breaker bar
- Locktite 272 Threadlocker "red"
- Super Lube Penetrant
- Wire brush
- Big mouth adjustable pliars (needs to be about 2" opening)
- Torque wrench

Here's how it goes:

Theres a small adjusting screw (12mm head) on the driver's half of the steering rack which keeps tension on the spring inside the cavity it screws into.

Step 1: Spray the outside of threads with penetrant and let it sit for a minute. Then, take a wire brush and scratch off all the road grime and crap to help you crack open the adjusting screw.

Step 2: Grab your break bar and make sure it's on the head of the bolt square otherwise you'll probably strip the head off. Give it a good crank and hopefully you'll hear it crack.

Step 3: After loosening the 12mm head you will probably see it comes with a large locking nut on the outside of the threads of the screw. Inside the cavity you will have the spring coated with grease come dropping on your head so be ready for that and dont' lose the washers.

Step 4: Next, install the new spring with all the washers and maybe lube it up with some of the goop from the original spring.

Step 5: Loosen the locking nut on the tensioning screw threads all the way off. Put threadlocker on the tensioning screw threads. Install the tensioning screw over the spring and thread in. Torque until 40 ft.lbs.

Step 6: Thread on the locking nut over the tensioning screw thread until finger tight.

Step 7: Now torque the screw with the locking nut finger tight until locking nut is tight (30-50 ft lbs.) on the flange. Use your torque wrench and set it to 50 ft. lbs.

Step 8: This is where it gets fun..You have to back off the tensioning screw because right now if you were to drive the car, the steering wheel would not return to center. It just goes straight like a ride 'em lawn mower.Trust me, I know..

So, you have to loosen the tensioning screw while using your pliars or (giant crescent wrench) to keep the adjusting nut from loosening with the screw.

I found that I had to play with the tension a few times to get it right but I would recommend loosening the screw a half-turn and then going from there. More loosening will make the steering easier to return to center after turning 20*, less loosening will make the steering wheel more solid, which is what we want to get rid of this wheel shimmy.

It should feel like stock when you're done, except without the shimmy and maybe a tiny bit more steering effort, but not much.

All of this work can be performed on ramps and you can even adjust the tensioning while just reaching under the car, if you're good.

Good luck!

[300hp owen]

holy pony in a flower patch,
you sir are the greatest!
thank you so much!

[drewc87]

check the balance on your fronts tires.... take it to a tire shop to have them rebalanced....


+1 get your tires balaced!

[Drift Motion]

i had that problem before, balanced my tires, and im good to go
oh and the previous owner had one rotational tire rotating the wrong way...
fixed both of that and never had any shaking again

[GlacierFreeze]

I just changed my front pads and rotors a few weeks ago and got the 55-60mph front left/steering wheel shake. I figured an alignment/rotate and balance would help but I've been putting it off....