car died while driving, starting problem

[Drift Motion]

i was driving home the other day, and the engine just shuts off, all dash light comes on, happened twice on the way home. first time, i was able to restart the engine immediately, but second time, i had to pull over to a side street, tried a couple times.
but the third time, car just died on me, it will crank, but seems like its not getting enough fuel or start it up, acts just like when i unplugged the fuel pump connector
but the thing is, i sat there, waited for about 25mins, the car starts up like normal, idles fine too

and when i turn the keys to the on position, i do hear the fuel pump making sound later that night when i took another look at it, fuel pump fuse is not blown either

i was thinking maybe something got clogged in the fuel line?

this is a stock ka hatch

[Drift Motion]

morning bump

[NismoSilvia270R]

mine did the same thing but enver started again. after removing the ka ecu, i saw that the ecupower pins were not powered with the ignition on. traced it from the eccs relay and results were inconclusive.

only thing i can figure is the wiring between the relay box and the ecu is exposed/worn or relay is bad

[na3j nitsuj]

check ur battery and alternator.

if u have access to another fuel pump then try switching it.

[kousuke180sx]

I had a fairly similiar problem. I was on the freeway and the car just died on me and wouldn't start up. Turned out to be a blown fuse.

[Dream240]

check ur battery and alternator.

if u have access to another fuel pump then try switching it.


The only way you would have a bad alt or battery is if the battery light came on, then the car died shortly after. In this case the alt would be culprit. If the battery was bad the car wouldn't start up on it's own but then run just fine. You can test the Alt, battery, and engine ground by simply using your voltmeter to test for good voltage at all the key points.

It sounds like you need to first check for engine codes. This problem could be a failing pump, distributor, coil, ignition switch, MAF, etc. On an S13 you are limited to what you get on the CEL codes but it's a good place to start.

Then again it could be simple and just be a clogged fuel filter or blown fuse. Check the simple stuff before you go out and start buying parts that you think are broken.

GL

[mandoz85]

I had a similar problem awhile back, i changed my fuel pump and it fixed the problem

[Drift Motion]

thanks for all the response
the battery is pretty new, and yeah i doubt thats the problem

i was thinking maybe it was something clogged in the fuel pump somewhere too

another note, i dont have a CEL, but i will go home and check the ECU for codes later today

[Drift Motion]

i checked my ecu for code
i got code 34

according to KA25DEvelopment.com

34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor

[juniorjimenez]

did your car shut off when it was hot because mine did and i ended finding out that my cam sensor was bad and it was sending wrong signals to the ecu so my fuel pump was giving out to wich caused lots of problems like causing my knock sensor to go off

[Drift Motion]

hot as in normal operating temperature?
if so yes
not overheating at the time

[BoNyG515]

code 34 is a common problem for most nissans. to confirm your fuel pump suspicion u should check for fuel pressure by disconnecting the clamp on the hose to the fuel filter. put the key to the on or start position and check if fuel sprays out from the hose. to even further test this, get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up inline with these hoses. if theres fuel spraying out and/or good fuel pressure move onto checking for spark. good luck and let us know your progress

[Drift Motion]

so ur saying that its not definitely the knock sensor thats bad? ill probably check the hose tomorrow

[Dream240]

so ur saying that its not definitely the knock sensor thats bad? ill probably check the hose tomorrow

If you've got a knock sensor code, I would change the sensor then recheck the codes. If you're still getting the error code then go from there.

Call me crazy but, if your car is telling you that it's got a bad sensor, I would change it.

But that's just me.

[Drift Motion]

If you've got a knock sensor code, I would change the sensor then recheck the codes. If you're still getting the error code then go from there.

Call me crazy but, if your car is telling you that it's got a bad sensor, I would change it.

But that's just me.

lol thats true, but just like others have said
no point of dumping money immediately if im not totally sure if thats the problem
from my research knock sensors are $100+...which isnt cheap

[legacy927]

last wk, my car was acting the same way..it just died on me..this is when i have already changed spark plugs, battery, fuel filter, air filter and starter..
couple of guys told me it could be clogged IACV..so i cleaned it out..it drives perfectly fine for now...i really dont know that's in ur case...but doesnt hurt to try...

[Drift Motion]

last wk, my car was acting the same way..it just died on me..this is when i have already changed spark plugs, battery, fuel filter, air filter and starter..
couple of guys told me it could be clogged IACV..so i cleaned it out..it drives perfectly fine for now...i really dont know that's in ur case...but doesnt hurt to try...

this?
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=96967

if so, i guess i can try doing that over the weekend

[pbcstylez]

ive cleaned it, only thing it helped was my idle, but go ahead and try it, either ways you'll benefit from it

make sure your use intake cleaner only no CARB cleaner

[Drift Motion]

yeah i read either intake cleaner or throttle body cleaner