KA engine randomly stalling

[Fidel_Castro]

So, My Auto S14 never had any problems until a couple days ago when it started to randomly bog out on me while im driving, and stalling out when its idling. It dosent matter wether im accel. or decel. I cleaned out the throttle body, changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter but that didnt fix it. After doing some more searching Ive come up with a list of possible issues including

FPR
Fuel Pump
coolant Temp sensor
vacuum lines/EGR crap
Timing

This is my DD, so I need to figure this out quickly. I just wanna know if Ive missed something or if someone can help me eliminate some of the things from my list. The car runs perfectly and has a steady idle the rest of the time, I dont feel any power loss and it still pulls hard at WOT. It just seems to be completely random. Any help would be appreciated.

[tckracker]

Check the main vacuum lines you can usually hear the leak while the engine is running, second replace your fuel filter... if its random it can very easily be that cheap and easy. Otherwise try the wiring in the front of the engine going to the ect and knock sensors... it corodes often and needs to be cleaned and add electronic lubricant to help connection. G/L

[240tek]

At WOT you should be dumping fuel, I agree check vacuum lines, especially the line that runs to IACV, it's one of the larger 3 that run near throttle body into the intake. CEL?

[Fidel_Castro]

well I finally had the light come on last night, so im gonna check it tomorrow. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner across all the vacuum lines, but didnt see a diffrence, is there anyother way to check them?

[KA-T_240]

If you have access to a spare maf try switching the maf. I have had problems somewhat similar to this but both on s13's.

If its OBD 2 take it to a parts store and get the codes checked.

[LA_phantom_240]

Hmm... my vert is doing something similar, but it doesn't die. It does bog pretty hard though.

[240tek]

Very good, let us know when you check codes, you should get used to pulling ECU off, mount it by just the nut in the back so it's easily accessible without a screwdriver. takes me nearly 2 minutes to check codes and clear em (depending how many codes stored.)

CEL does not necessarily direct you to problem, IE: i was having tranny 1st, 2nd, 3rd codes on my auto ecu, FSM stated it's mechanical (solenoids, etc) turns out it is the IACV hose to intake mani. Keep an open mind and share with us your experiences. "It's usually something easy" is my motto :D

[Fidel_Castro]

I got code:

34-knock sensor
21-ignition signal


so I guess ill try a new distributor and see how that goes. when the engine turns off it feels like someone turned the ignition off, but it then starts right back up. so....

[240tek]

knock sensor can be failed and car still runs "okay", buy a new one on ebay, mine went at 144K, bought new one for $55 shipped and cleared that code. You can remove harness, and mount it somewhere easy, without even removing the old sensor.

Start with checking Dizzy wiring first, then the Dizzy, then Knock sensor, as the Knock code could be byproduct.

Ignition signal from your ECU is sent through a Power Transistor that gives power accordingly. There's also a resistor between the Dizzy and ECU that restricts current to the transistor. Finally, there's the condenser which is probably bad.

You're on the right track!

On the other hand, if it starts right back up, that can mean the ignition (key part) can have a bad wiper in the switch. How much do those go for (and new keys, etc) do you deliver pizzas, lol j/k

[Fidel_Castro]

UPDATE: Turns out it was a bad Fuel pump and FPR...just in case anyone else is having the same issues...