Quick S13 power window question

[exitspeed]

I searched and found out how to fix it. Doesn't sound that hard.

But is there a way to manually roll up the window before I replace the mechanism so I can at least drive the car.

SOB went out yesterday and it's down. I couldn't drive to work today because were supposed to get storms.

Anyway.

Is there?

[Z U L8R]

depends what's bad. if the regulator's bad then the cable's probably snapped and you should be able to lift it in place then wedge something between the channel and the glass, or buy a suction cup. if the motor's bad you can unbolt the motor then pull the glass up after removing the door panel. if the switch is bad, you can just power up the motor. good luck
Dave

[exitspeed]

Ok so I took the whole window/ track/motor assembly out of the door. The cable on mine was not snapped. So I figured it was the motor. Went and bought a new/used motor from a dude and plugged it in and nothing.

Could it be that both switches are bad??? I doubt it.

Maybe I'm missing something.

[projectRDM]

Window amp is bad.

[exitspeed]

Window amp is bad.

Where is that located? Would that just effect one window or are they on the same amp? The driver side works.

[projectRDM]

Alright, then no. You didn't specify which side was bad, but now that we know it's the passenger side it could the switch itself on that side, or the motor you have is also bad. Hook a battery up to it and see if it runs, if so then test the switch for power coming/going out.

[exitspeed]

Alright, then no. You didn't specify which side was bad, but now that we know it's the passenger side it could the switch itself on that side, or the motor you have is also bad. Hook a battery up to it and see if it runs, if so then test the switch for power coming/going out.

Well I got a new motor and that one didn't work either.

Also both the driver or pass. switch wouldn't power it.

[projectRDM]

Have you tested the output at either switch?

If both switches are feeding a signal but you're not getting it to the motor, somewhere across the dash or in the door the harness is pinched or cut.

[exitspeed]

Have you tested the output at either switch?

If both switches are feeding a signal but you're not getting it to the motor, somewhere across the dash or in the door the harness is pinched or cut.

It must be pinched. It went out kinda weird. Got out of work, rolled the window down, drove home, parked in the garage, went to roll it up, and nothing.

[Z U L8R]

if the driver's masterswitch for the passenger mirror is bad then the passenger's switch will not work either. that doesn't mean the passenger's switch is bad, you need to get a test light and have someone hit the switchs to see if you're getting the power to the motor from either switch.

*wishes he was there with the power probe

[opponheimer]

If you need window amplifiers I have them pm me.

[exitspeed]

The amplifier is the same as the motor, correct? Just people calling them diff. things.

[projectRDM]

The amplifier is the same as the motor, correct? Just people calling them diff. things.

No. You should know this, you've been around long enough.

The amplifier is a relay pack, found in the driver's door, that drives the driverside motor. There is no amplifier for the passenger side, it's built in to the master switch and driven through the passenger side switch.

Driver side switch -> amplifier -> motor
Passenger side switch (on driver side) -> passenger switch -> motor

So either one of the switches is bad or the wiring is damaged between the three parts within the schematic.

[GSXRJJordan]

EDIT: Russ is a beast.

[projectRDM]

Nah the amp is a little (white?) box that sits behind the drivers side fuse panel. If your drivers side window is working fine though, it's not the amp.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have the diagram in front of me, just speaking from what I remember from a couple years ago ~

EDIT: Russ is a beast.

Strike two in this thread. Window amp is in the door. White box behind the fuse panel is the TCU, completely unrelated to anything in the window circuit.

[exitspeed]

No. You should know this, you've been around long enough.

The amplifier is a relay pack, found in the driver's door, that drives the driverside motor. There is no amplifier for the passenger side, it's built in to the master switch and driven through the passenger side switch.

Driver side switch -> amplifier -> motor
Passenger side switch (on driver side) -> passenger switch -> motor

So either one of the switches is bad or the wiring is damaged between the three parts within the schematic.

Yea I have, but my previous 240 was manual everything. So no experience with any of this on that car.

Thanks for your help Russ.

So is GSXRJJordan correct though is saying that if the driver window is OK then it's NOT the amp?

If so it seems like it must be the wiring then.

[projectRDM]

Yes, as stated above, the amplifier only drives the driver side window. It has no effect on the passenger side whatsoever.

[exitspeed]

Yes, as stated above, the amplifier only drives the driver side window. It has no effect on the passenger side whatsoever.

Am I going to have to remove my dash to access all of the wiring?

Not a problem if I do. I have to put in my crack free dash anyway.

[projectRDM]

Check for continuity across the dash from door to door, and check for a short on either wire to ground. If you're good across the dash and to each plug, one of the switches has to be bad.

You can also do this, bypass the passenger side switch by jumping the wiring together (don't have an FSM handy, but you'll figure it out). Now use a battery on the driver side to drive the window. If it indeed rolls up, put the passenger side switch back inline, but continue using a battery for the signal. If it doesn't roll up, that switch is dead. If it does, then the master switch is dead.

[thejapino]

I've rebuilt power window switches that don't work before. Make sure the switch is the culprit first with a test light. If it is definitely the switch, pull out the switch and take the switch apart. There are lots of little metal contacts and springs in there so make sure to remember how it goes back together. You'll notice that some of the contacts have alot of black 'soot' on them. Use steel wool to clean off the contact and remove the soot. Once the contacts are clean, coat them with dielectric grease and reassemble the switch. It should work again if done correctly and the soot on the switch was the problem.

Because the switches are 15+ years old, the factory dielectric grease dries up and the contacts start sparking when you use the switches. Eventually, the sparks build up so much soot that the switch is unable to complete a circuit and you end up with a "broken" switch.

Try it, cuz if you find your switch doesn't work, then you would have bought a new one anyway- you have nothing to lose!

sorry for the long post

[Jpooks_S13]

im having the same problem right now..but my situation is weird

my pass window was working fine and driver side was out due to it not having a window amp and a messed up window assembly.i screwed the amp in place and installed the new driver side assembly.tested it out and it worked fine.pass side was working.then I put on my door panel and went to roll up my windows driver side went up and the pass side didnt respond at all..so i tried another assembly (i have an extra set of driver and pass side assemblys)on the pass side,still nothing.i unhooked the assembly and took it to the driver side and hooked it up to test it out.all of my assemblys work on the driver side but not on the pass side.my switch was working on the pass before getting my driver side working.what would cause my pass side which was working like a champ all of a sudden go out?i need to fix this quick its rainy season and my car is my daily. pls help

p.s. sorry for thread jack didnt wana make a new topic