Some help with my ka-t

[YoungRookie]

Currently im using an n60 mafs with 370 injectors in a blow through setup. i think i still have some vaccum leak issues to figure out becuase currently the car runs a bit rough. I saw someone said that they switched ack to the stock mafs and their car ran a lot smoother. i am only running on about 7 lbs so would the stock mafs work fine for that? Also i have been thinking about switching the setup to a pull thru and put the mafs on the end of the intake. What benefits would i get from doing this? Also when the car is sitting at idle on its own it backfires extremely loud and shoots a flame out of the exhaust, what would be causing it to do this? I also changed the plugs today with bkr5e ngk's

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/youngrookie/P6260169.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/youngrookie/P6260167.jpg

[JDS Performance]

flamage comes from running too rich

Bad idle/running could be alot of things - I see you have a open atmosphere BOV - those are known to case problems like that - not sure if thats the issue - but worth a look.

Also I dont see your MAFS - that could be another reason for the problems - maybe its not located in a good spot?

also loose those crappy clamps and get some T-Clamps - you could also have leaks in your plumbing!

[DP_Michelle G]

I think your maf is to far away on the cold side. Move it up more that should fix the rich conditon that your having

[YoungRookie]

well see the car use to run complelty fine except it would not idle on its on. But when i put the new hot pipe on it it started running a little weird and then i the 440cc injectors i had mad it run like poo, so i just put the 370cc's back in but it still doesnt run that great. So the extremely loud (pop) back fire it does is becuase its running too rich?

[projectRDM]

OE MAF is good to 8psi, but you're right on the edge. Keep the N60 and retune it.

[YoungRookie]

what should i retune it with? my safc or are you talking about a rom tune, im thinking about just spending the money and swapping in an sr

[KA-T_240]

is your AFC set for the maf you have? You can make a boost leak tester for like $3 using pvc fittings. They work awsome. any leaks well be a wistle.

stock KA mafs are good to 250ish HP

[YoungRookie]

My safc is set to 3in 5out for my maf and i beleive those are the right in/outs for that mafs

[95Blue240sx]

dude get new plugs. I dont know why you are running such a hot plug. Get something in the 7 range. With NGK the lower number you go the hotter.

Backfire, especially with flames means the car is running way rich. How are you tuning the car? Are you taking the car to a dyno or do you have a wideband o2? It doesnt seem like it since you said you just "threw in" some 440cc injectors.

[devonkyle77]

the solution is sell me your sr clutch so you have money for dyno tune, lol.

[KA-T_240]

ya if you dont have a wideband get one. ASAP. or get on a dyno. messing with your Decel air settings on your AFC well help with your backfiring and issues caused by having a open vent BOV.

[YoungRookie]

95blue240sx- yes im using an sfac to tune my car as of right now.

What does the decel air settings do on the safc.

[95Blue240sx]

95blue240sx- yes im using an sfac to tune my car as of right now.

What does the decel air settings do on the safc.

There is no way to "tune" with a safc alone. Change your plugs to NGK 6097 they are the main stream heat range 7 plug.

[Irukandji]

Change maf to pull through
Sell SAFC + N60 maf unless you're getting a wideband OR dynotune with it. For the love of god don't ghetto tune it or copy someone else's settings.
Throw away your plugs and get NGK BK7RE's gapped to whatever you want (i went with .030)

[devonkyle77]

premies know best

[2ilvia]

first: shooting flames is teh awsomeness

now doing a pull through i believe you will have to recirculate your bov or else when the bov opens your engine will run rich until it closes, right?

[Nikeboy355]

I agree with going back to a regular pull through MAFS setup and getting a good ROM tune...

[Irukandji]

FYI, n60 maf is 5 in 5 out
But I still don't think it's a good idea

[95Blue240sx]

I would suggest reading the KA24DET thread in tech. That would be the best place to start. It doesnt really seem like you spent too much time reading up before actually installing the turbo. I am not trying to flame you or whatever.

[Irukandji]

you need fpr. maybe a tune for ur injectors and maf

put ur maf closer to ur filter.

with ur setup ur better running sidemount.


You don't need an FPR with 370cc's.

[Hooorahh!]

^ maybe u dont but id try it anyways his stock one might be out or just messed up ... i had that similar problem with my sr when running 740's and i installed a fpr and i dropped the fuel pressure and it worked great .. yes i know i was running 740's and hes running 370's but its worth a try or at least a guage that reads how much fuel pressure its sending if its too much then from there u will see that u need one.

[2ilvia]

Change maf to pull through
Sell SAFC + N60 maf unless you're getting a wideband OR dynotune with it. For the love of god don't ghetto tune it or copy someone else's settings.
Throw away your plugs and get NGK BK7RE's gapped to whatever you want (i went with .030)

wait a minute, im running an N60 on my stock ka and its just fine - no wideband or dynotune, what would be different on his boosted car?

[YoungRookie]

95blue240sx- actually i researched on this shit for about 2 years while collecting all my parts before i even attempted to install everything. It just confuses me why the car doesnt want to run right now after it use to run completly fine.

[YoungRookie]

So do i need to get an fpr or should i just get a fuel pressure gauge to see how much pressure there is and then go from there if i need to buy an fpr to adjust the pressure? What fpr kit do you recomend? Is the megan racing fpr a good enough kit?

[95Blue240sx]

Megan is coming up in the aftermarket world, but I would suggest the nismo or aeromotive adjustable fpr. Good luck fixing it up.

[JDS Performance]

wow this post is going everywhere than where it needs to go!

this guy obviously needs to have done alot more research before he turboed!

But he topped it off when he said he thinks he will just drop a SR in insted!

All I can say is WoW!

If you wanna learn alil more - I made a DVD for the people who are new to turboing and hate reading every night to find out 1 answer to 10 million questions!
Check it out!

http://www.KA24DETDVD.org

FYI - do the KA-T correctly and you will never even think of "dropping in a SR"

[YoungRookie]

Hey jds performance FYI i did do enough research, how would you know how much research i did or did not do. You are not exaclty helping this thread go in the right direction either, so in that case how bout you just stay out of it. Im only thinking about dropping in the sr becasue my dad said he will split the price with me if i decide to do that. Also i wanted to go sr before i even started building the ka-t. And why not drop in a motor that has 100,000 less miles then the motor thats in my car. Honeslty how bout you just stfu. Its people like you that bring the fucking site down. All i did was ask a few questions to help me out, and the other people on here have been kind enough to help me without trashing on me or the thread.

[Irukandji]

Hey jds performance FYI i did do enough research, how would you know how much research i did or did not do. You are not exaclty helping this thread go in the right direction either, so in that case how bout you just stay out of it. Im only thinking about dropping in the sr becasue my dad said he will split the price with me if i decide to do that. Also i wanted to go sr before i even started building the ka-t. And why not drop in a motor that has 100,000 less miles then the motor thats in my car. Honeslty how bout you just stfu. Its people like you that bring the fucking site down. All i did was ask a few questions to help me out, and the other people on here have been kind enough to help me without trashing on me or the thread.

He's trying to help you. After reading that reply I'm glad your car runs like shit.

[MELLO*SOS]

Standard questions.. Have you reset your ign timing? Have you pulled the codes (what are they if any)?

Jegs sells a really cheap 3/8" tee fitting with a 1/8" NPT port for adding a small fuel pressure gauge (they sell that too). I'd pick up a Nismo fpr, they are fairly cheap, reliable and re-saleable. Your fuel pressure should be 43.5psi (aka 3 bar) at idle with the vac line unhooked.

All these posts talking about going back to pull thru setup to eliminate problems with the BOV are misguided. I'd leave it blow through if at all possible just for that reason (providing the MAF isn't maxxed out)... But you might want to change over to pull thru for testing purposes to see if it solves your rough idle. I think I see your MAF on the left there on the coldpipe elbow? Supposedly you're supposed to have a 6"+ straight section before and after the MAF so the airflow is accurately measured. Turns and elbows in the pipe can cause turbulence and a poor reading = poor performance.

As mentioned above, build your own pressure tester. Basically a PCV cap of some sort with a tire nipple sealed into the end. If you search my posts I have a few posts with some links to home built boost leak testers.

GL

[YoungRookie]

N1smor- If he was trying to help me then he could have only mentioned the dvd he made, and left out all the other stuff he said. Everything he said minus about the dvd was in no way helping me out.

There is no way that i can have a 6" straight peice of pipe after the mafs because there is a bend right as it goes into the throttle body. The car ran fine before with the mafs at that location so i dont think that is a problem. I just want the car to go back to the way it use to ran. No i have not reset the timing. Iv read that i should retard the timing about 2-3 degress from stock.

[JDS Performance]

He's trying to help you. After reading that reply I'm glad your car runs like shit.

WoW! yeah I thought I was trying to help out too?

[JDS Performance]

well sorry to affend you - was not my intention - and I wish you the best - but my DVD will prolly not help you

[bo2o]

you dont have to neg rep me for my 2 cents..

what a meanie...

i was just trying to help.

also have you tried using a stock ecu?

[ploie]

did you check your injector o-rings to see if they are not torn
you have to be really careful when putting injectors into the fuel rail

[YoungRookie]

Hey man i didnt give you negative rep points, and if i did i definitly did not mean to

[donkayroo]

Rookie rookie rookie,
How many miles do you have on your boosted KA?

Have you done a compression test on your KA prior to dropping in the turbo?

How long/many miles have you put on your KA since the turbo install?

How hard have you ran the motor since turbo'd?

How long do you hope your boosted KA will last?

As another member suggested, checking the trouble codes is super duper important. That should be the first thing you do when it suddenly starts running like kaka. Consider the health of your engine. A basic rule of thumb for all tuners/mechanics...troubleshoot, diagnostic trouble codes, troubleshoot.

You don't need the N60 at this stage of your turbo action. It's only a matter of time before your rings can't handle the continued boost if your motor wasn't healthy in compression to begin with. Use the stock MAF...your only boosting 7psi. What fuel pump are you running again...stock?

This is the setup I ran surprisingly reliably for 2 1/2 years:

• Top mount T04B
• External Turbonetics wastegate w/7psi spring
• Front mount
• 2.25'' hot/cold pipes
• Bosch recirc
• 3'' turbo back
• FMU
• Stock ECU
• Stock MAF
• Stock injectors
• Stock fuel pump
• Stock plugs
• Retarded timing 5 degrees

I was trying to blow my motor but didn't... I'm sure you don't.

I'm running a new setup now but even the above mentioned sketchy setup put me side by side with SR's with full bolt-ons @ 12psi. I easily pulled from stock SR swaps like they were N.A. KA's. On the track, there was more than enough torque to bust 285/30/18's loose even with heavy ass Advan gen 2 wheels through the corners...also chirping 3rd and at times 4th in a straight line. All on a healthy bone stock KA24DE with 179 - 180 compression.

If this is the fun you want don't go beyond 7psi, get all the basics for reliability, use the stock MAF until you drop in a built motor, use the stock MAF until you can reliably crank up the boost, troubleshoot your motor to insure it's mechanically sound, don't drive your car until you find baseline AFC settings for your current setup.

Now, if you insist on using your current setup go to KA-T.org and contact member REDSS.


His settings are matched closest to your setup. Good luck!

z32 MAF
370cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
91 ka24de ecu
apexi SAFC
apexi AVC-R
apexi turbo timer
MSD 6BTM
MSD blaster coil
Split second EGO signal conditioner
ssautochrome bottom mount manifold
Garrett T25 from a red top sr20det
hks style turbo outlet
hks SSQV BOV
3 in SR downpipe, 3 in SR resonator test pipe, 3 in s13 catback exhaust
21x9x3 FMIC
2 1/2" piping
airinx type air cleaner


MAF type = Hotwire
Setting = 2in and 5out
# Of cylinder and throttle signal type, 4 and up arrow to the right

boost on average @ 7 to 8 psi with an occasional spike up to 11 psi.

lo throttle point 20%
hi throttle point 40% (fast spooling turbo)

low map -24 across
high map +20 to 21 across

on the innovate wideband, AF is steady at low 12 to mid 11 and high 10.