How much manifold heat wrap?

[Enemigo]

I'm getting a tubular manifold and want to wrap it with the heat wrap, how much do i really need? A buddy of mine has 3 meters that he's gunna give me, is this enough? 3 meters = ~10ft long, its also about 1" wide.

[GSXRJJordan]

9ft @ 1in wide is PLENTY. You could even do your elbow. Remember to hose clamp / wire bend the ends :)

[breakindrifts]

You're mani better be top quality materials cause heat-wrap will make it crack.

[Enemigo]

Its a Megan Mani.. whu would it crack with heat wrap?

[kuramaya]

Don't wrap it (unless it's a hooker). If you do you use Fiberglass heat wrap Jose, make sure you wear coveralls, protective gloves, and a face mask. That shit is unforgiving brother.
late
Daryl

[breakindrifts]

Ughh I really wouldn't recommend wrapping a megan mani....

[Enemigo]

alrighty then, seems like the "I"s have it.. no wrappin' the mani ;)

[Enemigo]

Don't wrap it (unless it's a hooker). If you do you use Fiberglass heat wrap Jose, make sure you wear coveralls, protective gloves, and a face mask. That shit is unforgiving brother.
late
Daryl

ibet it hurts just as bad as that pink panther crap people use to insulate homes.. i fell into a pile when i was a kid.. it sucked!

[kuramaya]

ibet it hurts just as bad as that pink panther crap people use to insulate homes.. i fell into a pile when i was a kid.. it sucked!

Worse, the fibers are tiny and get stuck in your skin and clothes bigtime. i wrapped a Mani once for a friend while he was working on other shit. i wore a mask and gloves and that is it. My arms were full of crap

[fliprayzin240sx]

If you will wrap it, soak it in water so you wont get fiber floating around for you to inhale and imbed into your skin.

[kuramaya]

If you will wrap it, soak it in water so you wont get fiber floating around for you to inhale and imbed into your skin.

Damn you Air Force fuckers are smart. Why didnt I think of that:faint:

[fliprayzin240sx]

Damn you Air Force fuckers are smart. Why didnt I think of that:faint:

Is that sarcasm Daryl? I cant tell from the fonts...:cry:

Anyways, the other beauty of wetting it is that itll stretch when wet. So when it dries, its more snug on whatever you wrapped it on.

[S14DB]

Need about 30ft for the mani. Soak in water to make more flexible. wrap with 1/4" overlap.

Any Cracking that may occur would happen without the wrap. It's just slowing the heat transfer down. If it holds the heat in you wrapped to much.

[kuramaya]

Is that sarcasm Daryl? I cant tell from the fonts...:cry:

Anyways, the other beauty of wetting it is that itll stretch when wet. So when it dries, its more snug on whatever you wrapped it on.

You know Im kidding...shit I forgot we aren't on ZY where we give each other mad shit as an accepted form of compliments :o

[steve shadows]

I'm getting a tubular manifold and want to wrap it with the heat wrap, how much do i really need? A buddy of mine has 3 meters that he's gunna give me, is this enough? 3 meters = ~10ft long, its also about 1" wide.

none you mani will crack twice as fast'

get it coated or make a heat shield

also dont buy sht ebay stuff, the type of steel they use is high in chromium content to look pretty but it is fail for heat.

[S14DB]

none you mani will crack twice as fast'

Proof ?

[steve shadows]

Ive had A LOT of experience on the sr20, mine and others included, this has been my experience

its your manifold fuck it right?

[codyace]

Just keep your stocker and be happy.

[steve shadows]

Just keep your stocker and be happy.

yeah I have the same advice

Cody do you have the link to the discussion from FA where they put the stock mani up against aftermarket ones and there was almost 0 difference on a dyno...

[Z U L8R]

i've been running an xs power manifold for 6 months making decent power, mine is wrapped with DEI heat wrap, i believe i used a roll and a half for my mani/turbo exhaust housing/downpipe. like they said get it wet first or you'll have itchy skin afterwords. plus it does take the manifold's shape better, and you won't get as much smoke at first when you first run your car.

ANY manifold can/will crack eventually, i'd rather crack a $200 manifold once a year than a $1000 manifold once every year and a half. it does hold in heat twice as long, but it DEFINATELY lowers engine bay heat and help with turbo efficiency. the better of the two is to get it heat coated, which does look better in my opinion, but if you need to get your car back together just heat wrap it. those metal zip ties are friggin expensive, i use metal wire/twine and make two hooks on each end, kind of like rapping your leg with ace bandage, and it works pretty well.


most people crack manifolds because 1. they have a big ass heavy turbo and they could really benefit from making a little support bracket (ps i don't have one) but most importantly 2. they don't have a flex pipe in their down pipe, which i've found is the biggest reason for blowing the manifold to turbo gaskets. i've never cracked a manifold and i've always used flex pipe in my down pipe. good luck
Dave

PS, people act like getting a hairline crack in a manifold is the worst thing on the planet....it's not the end of the world to take it off, get the crack welded, and come up with a way to prevent it in the future.

[steve shadows]

most people crack manifolds because 1. they have a big ass heavy turbo and they could really benefit from making a little support bracket (ps i don't have one) but most importantly 2. they don't have a flex pipe in their down pipe, which i've found is the biggest reason for blowing the manifold to turbo gaskets. i've never cracked a manifold and i've always used flex pipe in my down pipe. good luck
Dave

PS, people act like getting a hairline crack in a manifold is the worst thing on the planet....it's not the end of the world to take it off, get the crack welded, and come up with a way to prevent it in the future.

flex pipe is taken for granted, I would hope everyone has one especially with a top mount in the dp section.

It is the worst thing on the planet if you have to take it out every two months.

Why not just invest in a good quality tomei manifold, if you having heat soakissues due to your aftermarket manifold once again the high chromium content of the steel in the cheapo manis does not exchange heat as well and gets red hot much faster and with less timing on the map then the mild steel or 304 stainless pieces.

Im sure theres a lot of people who have gotten away with it because their cars are properly tuned. Most peoples cars are not properly tuned and often times exaust temps are sky high in very irregular ranges of the map due to this which exacurbates underhood soak of the crappy steel and turbo as well as promotes a situation for cracking.

I wrapped and wrap cast manifolds all the time without issues, but a good manifold with the right steel and thickness should not be causing overheating issues in your bay if everything is tuned and put together properly.

Now a race car with a mild steel manifold (like the DSG car) is a different story and an application where this stuff i great.

Im not bashing wrap, I just dont do it to shitty manifolds anymore. Ill wrap a cast mani, or a downpipe or pretty much anything else for that matter.

The other thing i reccomend is if something is getting hot in the bay wrap that with some DEI and Metal tape to hold it together. I wrap all my cooling lines and oil lines double with 1 inch header wrap then use metal exaust repair/ducting tape to really tighten it and tape it downn, then metal wire at the ends and middle to sinch it.

[codyace]

yeah I have the same advice

Cody do you have the link to the discussion from FA where they put the stock mani up against aftermarket ones and there was almost 0 difference on a dyno...

I did a quick search for it when I posted my original comment, but can't think of what the key terms were.

IIRC the tubular manifolds made in the 10-15 less hp from redline to 55/6k and 10 hp more from 6K on, with a loss of similar torque down low, but regaining it up top (versus a stocker).


I know it's expensive, but I can't praise the extrude hone and swain coat enough. For the cost of both processes, you will spend more than a cheap manifold, but alot less than a FullRace/Peakboost, or similar.

I actually offered Full Race to dyno compare my modified stocker vs their bottom mount, and it eventually came down to the fact that they wanted to do it on their dyno, and wanted a standalone not a rom tune (as I assume they wanted to 'tune specifically' to the manifold. My last comment was '85 percent of 240 owners use rom tune, so why not compare that'. Nothing else was said. I'll let their lack of reply or 'eagerness' to compare manifolds speak for itself...

(by no means am I bashing Full race, just stating the simple fact of the matter...if I was going a big turbo route, I'd be looking at them for sure for manifold choice...but in terms of the bottom mounts, I'll stick with what i have)

[Z U L8R]

all good [email protected] & cody, heatsoak can be an issue with a cheap manifold that's not equal length....honestly, the only exhaust manifolds i've ever seen cracked were custom made....i've never seen a cracked megan or even xs power yet. xs power turbo's are teh sux tho +_+

[kuramaya]

I went 2 years on a "Chinese" same as all the knock off manifold without a flexpipe before it gave out...I think thats pretty good. Shit it was time to upgrade Turbos anyway:naughtyd: Fuck stock, that shit is Ugly...and no I am not about the rice.

[SRpetey]

I have been using a megan mani with exhaust wrap for close to a year now and without any problems.

Used 15ftx2in of DEI exhaust wrap. That was enough for me. (Its $15 at Autobucs)