clutch pedal pressure raises out of no where, clutch slipping?

[S13-KA24DET]

clutch pedal pressure raises out of no where, clutch slipping?
.
r33 rb26dett & tranny
stock clutch
intake
straight piping yada yada
15 psi
.
when i first got her running of course i'd do a couple runs, mostly rolling/2-3rd gear pulls if that matters, the clutch/clutch pedal worked fine *but the rod was adjusted 'all the way out' i know it's usually not supposed to be adjusted all the way but it worked and it would grab about after half way out so i assume my clutch would still grab nicely without the slave pushing it..
.
then my ricer self warmed up my tires and then i ran and my clutch was slipping the whole time and afterwards the pedal out of no where has no play/has become pressurized or pressed up hard against the stopper, anyone care to explain why 'out of no where' it would just be like that? i adjusted it now with some free play but have yet to test it out (kinda late right now)

[johngriff]

it is passing air back and forth, and needs to be bled.

[S13-KA24DET]

hmm that's odd just cause i've drove it kinda hard for awhile and kept up nicely, care to explain/give me a better understand as how that might happen? or is it just one something that happens outta no where

[orion::S14]

If the clutch rod is adjusted improperly (too little free play)...then it builds pressure, and cannot vent it...mainly when hot.

SO it's fine when you start driving...but as everything warms up...the line builds pressure and cannot vent it b/c you've adjusted the master cylinder to the point where fluid can enter the line, but cannot vent back to the reservoir.

Loosen the clutch rod behind the pedal. Sometimes only take a half turn...so adjust, drive. Adjust, drive...until it's good to go.

- Brian

[contranication]

You can also leak out a little air into your system from the hot fluid, any water and air that got absorbed before the system was closed... Make sure your fluid is at the right level. Try switching to a higher temp brake fluid and re-bleed your system if the above doesn't work.

[downshift_sideways]

I had the same problem.
I readjusted the rod, and bled my clutch out...

but it was too late lol...

[nisans13turbo]

If the clutch rod is adjusted improperly (too little free play)...then it builds pressure, and cannot vent it...mainly when hot.

SO it's fine when you start driving...but as everything warms up...the line builds pressure and cannot vent it b/c you've adjusted the master cylinder to the point where fluid can enter the line, but cannot vent back to the reservoir.

Loosen the clutch rod behind the pedal. Sometimes only take a half turn...so adjust, drive. Adjust, drive...until it's good to go.

- Brian

Hate to bring this old thread back but I having same problem, when adjusting the nut on the rod, do I move the rod out or inside my car? Can someone clarify this to me before i start adjusting. thanks

[DJ_Sunrise]

Check factory specs for dead zone on the clutch. For SR/KA its something around 1/2in on a properly bled system. If you are looking at the pedal from drivers seat, clockwise screws it in shortening pedal travel. Counter clockwise lengthens travel. RB trans on 240s im not sure if the dead zone should be the same, but more than likely.

-Bart

[redgold]

so if my clutch is grabbing too high, I should shorten the rod or make it longer?


:hammer:

[johngriff]

here you go!

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1089147#post1089147