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View Full Version : Help gas+spark+air =combustion? right-


deze9182
06-03-2007, 08:30 PM
I have an s13 redtop sr20 in an s14. I noticed the car was running way too slow due to a boost leak in my fmic piping. I was driving the car and go to a light I had a loose wire coming from my battery so the car shut down. I reattached the cable then tried to start the car. I checked the fuse box and there were two fuses blown,Egi and Eng Cont.I replaced these fuses and still nothing. Then I noticed that there was no sound coming from my fuel pump. then I checked the power going to the fuel pump relay. The relay had power but when I put the tester to the fuel pump relay ecu wire [black and pink] the fuel pump began running. then I figured the relay blew and replaced the relays, still nothing. then I checked the ecu since the ecu controls all the ground wires. No power to ecu but the same thing happened, I touched the tester to the red and black ecu relay wire and the ecu kicked on. So I tested to see if the car would start with this wire ran straight to ground and It still wouldnt start, but the fuel pump functioned normally and the plugs were sparking.then I figured it may have jumped time I opened the valve cover and cranked the chain to tdc and lined up marks on cas. timings good. My question is what does the ecu relay ground to so I can continue tracing wires and what else isnt working that couldve shorted out due to the surge of power that has to do with air flow because if you have spark and you have fuel and you dont have combustion then you must not have air.And could the ecu be fried if everything seems to be working properly when you attach a ground to the red and black ecu wire. I dont wanna attach another ecu and burn it up as well if there is something wrong with my wiring.

slider2828
06-04-2007, 04:10 PM
Yo friend your ecu for sure. I had the exact same problem. Because When you blow he EGI and eng Cont, sometimes the surge is so great, it basically blows your ECU. I tested the same exact things and tore out my harness. In the end, tried a friends sr ecu and everything clicked and worked. Loose ground cables own your car. But yah before you go out and buy a new ECU, try a known good ecu first. But I am almost 90% sure its the ecu, because the ecu, controls the pumps and stuff and switches on the relays as well.

deze9182
06-05-2007, 01:50 PM
Thanx man I was fearin that but Ill try that before I go any further. wheres A good place thatll fix mine or sell one cheap. I dont know anyone else around here whos done the swap

slider2828
06-05-2007, 02:20 PM
I don't really have any idea where you can fix an ecu, but I would maybe see if enthalpy will fix it. You can probably buy one on the forums or ebay even. Yah the amount of problems you have is symptomatic of a fried ecu... Yah I know it sucks, I paid like 100 bux for mine because I was messing around with the MAFS and the turbo timer was still on and fried the Eng Cont and EGI and it was over for my ecu. Good Luck

deze9182
06-05-2007, 02:38 PM
did you ever take the ecu apart and look at it. if so was anything abnormal.I just took mine apart and it looks as though every thing is fine but who am I. I would have thought there would have been a burnt point or something

deze9182
06-05-2007, 02:41 PM
But yup Im gonna order a new one and pray. Plus it would never be a bad thing to have a working sr20 ecu lying around. Damn the unreliability does it ever end

slider2828
06-05-2007, 03:44 PM
Yah I pulled mine apart couldn't see anything burnt or anything.... just doesn't power on and therefore nothing else turns on like the fuel pump or injectors, just cranks.

deze9182
06-05-2007, 11:16 PM
Ohh yeah if I check all my grounds and make sure that maf and O2 sensors are wired correctly it should be cool to hook a new ecu up right. If any of that was wrong it would have probably shorted out when I started the car right or would it have run for a few days first? do you think the only prob was the shotty wiring job [starter wire and electronics hooked to the same wire going to positive on battery with no fuse in between and a piece of metal jammed in A fuse block because fuses kept poppin]. I rewired and put a starter switch between the starter and the battery and ran a seperate wire to trunk with a toggle switch and an inline fuse in between.cleaned the mess up a bit.Ohh yeah I managed to find a mines tuned ecu for 210 bucks too so hopefully I wont burn that piece up.

slider2828
06-06-2007, 12:50 AM
Yup, to your first question. Yup, so you wanna make sure the wiring job isn't a hack job or you just going to blow that too.

deze9182
06-16-2007, 11:05 AM
Ok I ordered a new ecu and put it in the car started It idled horrible. if I touch the accelerator the engine would immediately die.so ohh yeah I figured it might be flooded and disconnected the fuel. the car ran for 45 minutes then I figured it may be gas in the intake because the car flooded one time so bad that there was gas in the intercooler. about an inch deep. I Was right there was gas in it.I wiped it out and figured it may have been the way I sealed it the last time.permatex.I removed what I saw was in the pipe and reassembled it .While I had it off I cleaned my iacv and tested my injectors to see if their working.they were fine.what else could it be.

productions14
06-16-2007, 12:53 PM
Have you doublechecked your timing? With a timing light, I mean.

deze9182
06-24-2007, 04:49 PM
ok I finally got the car to start it runs normally but if I give it gas it acts like it wants to die out. It also makes like a chopping noise coming through the intake when you rev the motor and let off it. why is that air fluttering back through my turbo. Could my blow off valve be in the wrong spot. what could that be