Remove ABS? (Pictures)

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Im trying to remove my ABS from my 1989 240sx. From what I have read, I think its possible to remove it without having to get a non-abs master cylinder.

Here is a diagram from the FSM:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k10/dylanw83/diagram.jpg


Here is a picture of my ABS lines. F, FL, FR, R, R

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k10/dylanw83/abslines2-1.jpg


Here is a picture of a Nissan specialty part from the dealership which I found on another forum. Part #02463-13100

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k10/dylanw83/02463-13100.jpg


Now from my understanding, I think I join up the F line from the master cylinder to the FL and FR with the T connection and then join up the R with the other R. Am I on the right track or totally off?

Thanks

[projectRDM]

You want to keep the front lines separate.

[GRIPPY]

*REALLY BAD MISINFORMATION DELETED*

Admin edit: PLEASE don't say something if you actually don't know wtf you're talking about. The guy who posted above you has been working on 240sx's since before your balls dropped.

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

Why do you just go to a junk yard and get the hardlines and master cylinder out of the engine bay, your way is going to make that area of your engine look cheap and stupid instead of doing it the right way and making it look stock.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Theres always more than 1 right way to things. I don't want the "stock" look. If I can get rid of some weight then, why not? All that matters is that it functions like its suposed too. Thanks for the input guys.

[floodo1]

I never understood why the front lines where split at the master cylinder. Since you want equal pressure to each front caliper I see no reason why you couldn't T a single line from the MC. I mean this is how most racecars do it, and how the rear is done.

[Taiden]

Neat. I called my local online speed shop and they are working out finding me a cheap T fitting and a male > male adapter. Maybe I can sell these off to Zilvia members.

I've heard that most of the MC swaps for the 240sx use the ABS line setup. This is the best way to keep the ABS style lines while having no ABS, from what I can tell.

[seven.62]

i was looking up this part to use in my car right now and when i look up the part number it says that it has been replaced by part #4636450F00. is there anyone that can cross refrence this number to see if it is still the same part?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

just go to an auto part shop and ask them for what u need. they will have it. i did compression fittings on all of my brake lines. i know its illegal.. eh o well

[Taiden]

i was looking up this part to use in my car right now and when i look up the part number it says that it has been replaced by part #4636450F00. is there anyone that can cross refrence this number to see if it is still the same part?

here is your answer. i was talking to GregV (Greg Vogel, gspec.com ) from sr20forum about ordering this part. he corrected me in an email and said:

it's vice versa
New: 46364-50F00 about $8.50
Old: 02463-13100

$8.50 for a ABS delete when you get to retain ABS lines is nothing to shake a stick at.

[mtx450]

just go to an auto part shop and ask them for what u need. they will have it. i did compression fittings on all of my brake lines. i know its illegal.. eh o well


Hey, do you think you could possibly take some pictures of the fitting you used for the rear? I bought that brake line splitter months ago, and have been meaning to, but wasn't sure what to do for the rear...Thanks man

[2plus4plus0eq6]

ok im way too lazy for that sorry. its just a compression fitting. google it. 1 T compression for the front and a straight one for the Rear. I recommend recuting/flaring it and using a flare fitting so its legal again.

[mtx450]

ok im way too lazy for that sorry. its just a compression fitting. google it. 1 T compression for the front and a straight one for the Rear. I recommend recuting/flaring it and using a flare fitting so its legal again.


eh, being legal :jerkit:

haha, yeah ill check it out....thankssss i guess haha

[EDacIouSX]

why do you want to remove abs anyway?

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

why do you want to remove abs anyway?
Probably because they are "drifters" who heard someone on a forum say that ABS sucks.
I took out mine for two real reasons.
1. It didn't work.
2. My S14 uprights didnt have the ABS mounts machined into them.

Theres always more than 1 right way to things. I don't want the "stock" look. If I can get rid of some weight then, why not? All that matters is that it functions like its suposed too. Thanks for the input guys.
You're right, this:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k10/dylanw83/02463-13100.jpg

Looks better then this:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f218/tknbkthrsdy4anfg/P9110003.jpg
And besides u guys are retarded. there are front and rear circuits for a reason. DONT MIX THEM! Your proportioning is gonna be whack and there isn't gonna be a computer to save u anymore.

[mtx450]

wow another know it all....whatever...i just wanted some advise for connecting the rear....im taking abs out because it doesn't work and even if it did work...the abs system for s13's is probably shitty and would provide unpredictable wheel lockup when on a track

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

Im not being a know it all, if your going to mess with the most important system on your car DO IT FUCKING RIGHT.
none of this cheap half ass crap.

[mtx450]

Im not being a know it all, if your going to mess with the most important system on your car DO IT FUCKING RIGHT.
none of this cheap half ass crap.


ive seen tons of people do it this way...what makes this a half assed way...have you actually taken brake pressure readings at each corner to see that the abs MC makes it disproportioned?

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

No, but having a big gay copper block with BENT LINES in my engine bay instead of clean oem run lines is fucking stupid.
gimme a break.

[mtx450]

No, but having a big gay copper block with BENT LINES in my engine bay instead of clean oem run lines is fucking stupid.
gimme a break.


I gotcha dude, I understand what your saying. I don't know why you are being so argumentative about it though. This is an easier way to get it out without having to buy a new MC and hardlines to all the calipers. I agree that it would look better your way, but it's not necessary. I'm sure one doesn't outperform the other...

[tknbkthrsdy4anfg]

I gotcha dude, I understand what your saying. I don't know why you are being so argumentative about it though. This is an easier way to get it out without having to buy a new MC and hardlines to all the calipers. I agree that it would look better your way, but it's not necessary. I'm sure one doesn't outperform the other...

Performance wize, you're probably right however mixing the two circuits is a bad idea, I'm not a physics major, but mixing both circuits would cause too much pressure to the rear, potentially locking the rear tires prematurely. (not safe) There is a proportioning valve in there for a reason.

[mtx450]

Hah, I just realized that I got negative rep on this post. I was told to stop arguing with people that know what they are talking about. Forgive me master...The force is strong with you...

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ Joe the ABS cars have a single line going from the master cylinder to the ABS "rats nest", where it splits for FR and FL calipers - he wasn't T'ing a single line and splitting for front and rear (which would be 'mixing the circuits'/50-50 brake bias front and rear), he was T'ing the single front for FR and FL. He hadn't hooked up the rear yet. He'd still have stock bias front and rear, its just the fronts might be weird due to single line vs two lines.

I'm not saying the T block is the better way to do this, I'm all for grabbing an upgraded MC (Z31 or Z32 depending on your caliper setup) and taking the lines out of a non-abs car. Like Joe said, bent lines ARE bad, and brakes ARE important.