center support bearing, tranny oil seal, propeller shaft problems - help pls!

[jaja]

heard a really weird whizzing sound as I was driving down from SF to LA.... (real real fast) got worried when I pressed the clutch and the whizzing continued, (especially when I had more than 200 miles left to go...)

anyway long story short I had a hunch that it was my center support bearing for the propeller shaft, but after I took a peek today, not so sure any more... so need a second opinion before I start taking everything apart.


PIC 1: I figure this is the tranny oil seal
Do I need to get a new dust cover or should I just toss this one?
http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3229.JPG


PIC 2: Center support bearing... not sure if it is bad
http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3230.JPG


PIC 3: bad pic, but rear diff - this seal bad too?
A bit difficult to see but there is some/not alot of oil behind the diff/shaft area.
http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3232.JPG



So my story is this, I already ordered and received the center support bearing assembly. (paid like $140), (BTW my car is a 1993, Conv 240SX with 5SP swap)

1. Do I return the part and get a aluminum or steel one piece? (I found alot of info on both on this site, but still not sure what the verdict is.... my plans for the car is mostly as a grocery shopper/ occasional tanning machine/ drifting in the rain car)

2. I figure I need both oil seals replaced (tranny and RR diff) anyone disagree?

3. Is the RR diff oil seal removal possible from the outside or do I have to pull the entire thing out?

4. Big question - how long do you think this would take? and should I even attempt to do it by myself? (I did propeller shaft work on my Bronco - but then that had ALOT more clearance - actually didn't even have to jack it up :) ) And how should I pay for someone else to do it....

[slider2828]

The repairs definitely are easy. Just put the car on jack stands and have a buddy help you. Unbolt the drive shaft from the rear diff and then remove the center bearing, then just pull the drive shaft out. For sure the tranny rear seal is bad, so just replace it first. The whirrling might come from the tranny because now you have leaked oil directly out of the tranny and the tranny might not have enough lubricant. Obviously if you don't fix this soon and continue driving, then you can blow your tranny. So get that rear seal fixed fast. Don't worry about the dust boot ring in the rear of the tranny, not a big deal.

[drift freaq]

^^^^^^^^ what he says is pretty much what you need to do. As far as the drive shaft itself goes. I would suggest you get a one piece drive shaft. you do not need the new center support bushing and if you do go one piece you will lose less of your torque and hp to drive train. If you want a One piece steel driveshaft hit me up. I can get it made for you for a good price.

[projectRDM]

The oil on the diff is blow back from the transmission, there's no front seal on the diff that would leak like yours is doing, it'd be running down the case, not sprayed back.

The carrier bearing looks fine, as for the dust collar it's come loose and rattling on the driveshaft, just throw it away. The rear seal takes less than a minute to replace after the shaft is out.

[jaja]

do i need a special tool to replace the seal on the tranny?

[projectRDM]

I'd suggest a seal puller, but a good flathead works too.

[jaja]

http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3241.JPG


http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3242.JPG

Just got part# 32136-U0100 (for $15 at the stealership- could prob have gotten for like $5 at Kragens....), is this the right seal? (for anyone who has recently changed it...

I'm assuming that the bottom one is the side that faces the propeller/driveshaft.

Also do I need to change any other seals while I'm down there?

Thanks.

[slider2828]

I dunno if kragen sells one, but its just simple replacement. Spring side faces the front and flat side facts rear. I'd invest in an automotive pick too and some pliers. Just don't scratch or dent the metail around the ring. Do it slowly, and tap in straight with like can or something that fits flat in there.

[jaja]

btw I can toss the dust cap right?

[slider2828]

you can, but it does marginally help lol..

[jaja]

well i'm sure the stealership wants an arm and a leg for that...

i'll try my luck without it. my bronco does well without it (even in mud) I think my s13 can do the same...

[jaja]

spent a crazy amount of time trying to get this seal into place... after alot of cursing, i gave up. service manual notes some sort of tool, (i guess any cylinder will do...) but of course dont have anything like that. tried all my sockets, no dice...

anyone got any suggestions?

(and I gave up on the center support bearing... there is a huge nut that there is no way I can get off, esp with my tools....)

help.

[projectRDM]

If you don't have a large socket that will fit it, use a smaller one (14mm) and lightly tap it in moving around the seal's edge every few hits. Start on each side to center it, then move around like you'd draw a star.

[jaja]

the seal should go all the way in, yes? it can NOT be flush right?

[DJ_Sunrise]

No. The seal should be flush. Tap it in enough where it is perfectly level.

-Bart

[slider2828]

yah flush dude and make sure it went in straight, not wiggled left and right as much, but FLUSH. Feel it with your finger like punani and it should be smooth all around. HAHAHAH

[jaja]

this good enough? it was the best i could do....

http://washington.jaja.com/s13/imgs/IMG_3719.JPG

[DJ_Sunrise]

did you grease the outside a bit? just a thin film usually does the trick. its tough to tell from the pics.. it really should just be flush. you should feel no lip on the seal nor the trans..

[jaja]

well driveshaft is already on.... wish me luck :)

[jaja]

i just changed the gear oil - and noticed that the actual leak may also be coming from the 'boot' or the actual shift knob area..