Hello Zilvia Peoples , A Far amount of questions

[Synd]

As some of you have experinced sometimes we tend to take our cars to crappy mechanics , unfortunately this happened with my 4g63 2 times , and no A/C in florida is horrible.. Not to mention I havent had a running car for a total of 4 1/2 years ( its been a span of 6 years with not being reliable unless it was stock ) .. Anyway 16k+ later , missing college and being 27 , not being able to do anything or go anywhere I have decided to give up on 4g63's. I suppose i should of done it myself if I had the means. Also , a 500hp car is not daily friendly so time to part out.

Before my DSM I had a 72 240z L26/E88 - R200 rear - Tripple webers etc .. Unfortunately I was unable to adjust the TB's right and was sick of smelling like gas after a 5 minute driving and seeing purple bunnies floating around. I suppose I should of stuck to the SU carbs.

Anyway this leads me to the 240sx , I have lurked these forums for quite sometime although because of the vast opinions it seems tough at times to get the straight answer you are looking for , Much like asking about "reliability of the SR" ... Its more reliable than a 4g63 and thats all I care about .

What are the measures to bullet proof a sr20det? , I planned on rebuilding with stock internals and opening oil passages \ oil pan etc . A new bb turbo .. and so on .. What helps make a sr20det a decent daily driver but getting performance out of it? From what I have read the pitfalls tend to be cooling and sr's are oil hungry .

This will be my daily , I am more concerned about taking a 8 hour drive in it than I am getting some "magic 300hp number" . So comfort is also a consideration , Which leads me to the topic of suspension .

I have never really followed parts that people ( on zilvia ) tend to enjoy , So I will need to ask some questions which I have kind of answered myself by doing searches but still feel the need to ask . Since I will have over 7000 ( without the purchase of the car yet I am assuming about 3200 for a nice running 91 hatch or similar style ) ..

If you just have links , I do not mind reading . As long as it doesnt get to technical , after all if I am asking some of these questions its obvious I wouldnt understand the latter explanation in technical terms , So try to keep it downs friendly. :wiggle:

Suspension : How is a reservoir beneficial , Since I will have a fair amount of money and not doing the engine yet , I can spend 2000 on a coil over setup . But will I notice the difference since I am lacking any knowledge about these setups ? would a hks hyper coil over system or a kei office system off of ebay ( no leaky leaks ) suit me just as well as a stance pro unit or a KW unit? .. Or do you think after a year of driving and meeting new people I would eventually notice the difference and regret my choice? .
As for all the tie rods etc ( I know the purpose of them ) it seems ill just stick with battle version is it? .. Because you know , I am going to be in a battle going to school and driving to work . I think if I tried to drift id flip my car into a wall , Plus it seems like you have to beat on the engine a bit which I do not want to do. I just like parking lot racing :/

Brakes : I think most people here are going to say to just do the z swap ,
If I had an extra 2200 I would be able to get a project mu setup or something similar .. I am pretty sure this is a waste of time and money due to the price . Should I just do the swap or get a cheaper big brake setup for 1500 by someone like ap , wilwood , stoptech , brembo ? Even though im sure the endless and mu setups are nice , I cannot imagine they are 2500 to 5000 dollars better than the companies i listed prior. Plus I doubt I am going to get brake fade going 70 on i95 or in a parking lot .

Body : ( Puts on his flame suit , this might suck ) Koguchi's black 180sx ( think its his , the one with the OMEGA logo on it -guessing a brake company?- ), im sure everyone has seen the video so I do not need to comment , Which hood is that , I have no been able to find similar , just ones with the vents but it has a raised area around it which are not like the one on the car? Id like as much cooling as possible without over cooling. is the front bumper also the standard type-x? along with the skirts , rear and spoiler ( not a fan of overly done kits ) . If I am unable to locate it , I also enjoy the looks of the gp kit .

Trans: Is the LSD on the SE's fine ( I am removing hicas ) ? Or should I upgrade it .. Also I would be out of money from the listed above but , are the upgraded tranny gear tree's worth it? or is this mostly for cars over 300.

Wheels : Just going to throw this out here alough I know the answer , I should stick between 16-17 for handling , anything past that I start to lose ride quality? ( its like this on alot of cars but im just double checking )

Last question has to do with A/C and I know this has been covered quite a bit , but was curious as to the cost of the A/C lines ( dont you need custom? or is that only if you use the SR compressor and not the KA one -think I read it bolts up fine with light fab , or if none you can get at least 2 bolts in and its good to go-.

Thanks guys , I hope nothing was too bad ( but I think it was hehe ) . Im going to go back to reading and lurking around . Hopefully someone can help me out.

I am going with the body, suspension , brakes , first because it seems to be what people reccomend ( well at least suspension and brakes anyay ) . Plus I need to do a crap load more research before I even bother with the engine. i am leaving out stuff but I want to test the waters first.

[S13-Silvia]

Wow, thats a lot of reading. For the suspension, I think you should get one of the STANCE coilovers and get some MAX rucas and other suspension parts, that would keep you in the $2000 range. For wheels, I would say 17" in nice sizes, for you probably 9" all around with around +20 offsets. Tires I guess around 235/40 in a nice tire like Falken Azenis 615. For brakes, I'd go with 26mm 300z brakes with a rotor upgrade and good pads. I don't know what the hood is on that car though.

Hope that answered some of your questions. Welcome to Zilvia!

[johngriff]

TLDR

Sounds like alot of if's and but's. Get a 240sx, post pics. Welcome to zilvia.

[McRussellPants]

Suspension : How is a reservoir beneficial , Since I will have a fair amount of money and not doing the engine yet , I can spend 2000 on a coil over setup . But will I notice the difference since I am lacking any knowledge about these setups ? would a hks hyper coil over system or a kei office system off of ebay ( no leaky leaks ) suit me just as well as a stance pro unit or a KW unit? .. Or do you think after a year of driving and meeting new people I would eventually notice the difference and regret my choice? .
As for all the tie rods etc ( I know the purpose of them ) it seems ill just stick with battle version is it? .. Because you know , I am going to be in a battle going to school and driving to work . I think if I tried to drift id flip my car into a wall , Plus it seems like you have to beat on the engine a bit which I do not want to do. I just like parking lot racing :/


If you have to ask about double adjustable shocks you don't need them.

KTS or Stance GR Pros.

Tie rods, SPL Parts or OEM.

Autocross is lame, both of those mods would put you in some retarded class.


Brakes : I think most people here are going to say to just do the z swap ,
If I had an extra 2200 I would be able to get a project mu setup or something similar .. I am pretty sure this is a waste of time and money due to the price . Should I just do the swap or get a cheaper big brake setup for 1500 by someone like ap , wilwood , stoptech , brembo ? Even though im sure the endless and mu setups are nice , I cannot imagine they are 2500 to 5000 dollars better than the companies i listed prior. Plus I doubt I am going to get brake fade going 70 on i95 or in a parking lot .

Zbrakes with good pads. done. big brake kits are for show, you don't need them until you're acutally fading your brakes, no one on this site will fade Z32s.

Body : ( Puts on his flame suit , this might suck ) Koguchi's black 180sx ( think its his , the one with the OMEGA logo on it -guessing a brake company?- ), im sure everyone has seen the video so I do not need to comment , Which hood is that , I have no been able to find similar , just ones with the vents but it has a raised area around it which are not like the one on the car? Id like as much cooling as possible without over cooling. is the front bumper also the standard type-x? along with the skirts , rear and spoiler ( not a fan of overly done kits ) . If I am unable to locate it , I also enjoy the looks of the gp kit .

Body Kit is Hot road, Hood is Koguchi, you won't have the money for either.

Trans: Is the LSD on the SE's fine ( I am removing hicas ) ? Or should I upgrade it .. Also I would be out of money from the listed above but , are the upgraded tranny gear tree's worth it? or is this mostly for cars over 300..

Clutch only, A Tomei Diff when you drive enough to see how much the vlsd sucks.

Wheels : Just going to throw this out here alough I know the answer , I should stick between 16-17 for handling , anything past that I start to lose ride quality? ( its like this on alot of cars but im just double checking )

Thats too oversimplified to mean anything.

17s bare minimum.

[Synd]

I figured autocross wouldnt be a good idea. The
classes are retarded . Im glad to know the brake system is decent since that saves on alot of cash. I am dissapointed about the body kit / hood though :( .. Thanks though guys, i was expecting mean stuff hehe !! :D Since you aware of my mild retardation , I am unable to find prices on stances site?

( now i know the name on the hood etc , ya im seeing all the info about RSM making it etc ) .. Well maybe when I have 3000 to spend on just a hood heh.

[ixfxi]

Zbrakes with good pads. done. big brake kits are for show, you don't need them until you're acutally fading your brakes, no one on this site will fade Z32s.

Folks in Texas dont drive in canyons, so Z32s are good enough for most people.

I out-drove my Z32 brakes though. For the majority, Z32 is a great start.. just do the entire upgrade. If you need more, buy more later.

See, dont try to do it all in one shot.. take baby steps.

Also, I dont rock 17s.. but it really depends what you want. I've been happy with 16s, but tire sizes are becomming more and more limited. Either way, I always chose compound over size.. so just use your head.

[McRussellPants]

Folks in Texas dont drive in canyons, so Z32s are good enough for most people.

I out-drove my Z32 brakes though. For the majority, Z32 is a great start.. just do the entire upgrade. If you need more, buy more later.


out drive the brakes or the pads?

anything will fade if you have trashcan pads on them.

[johngriff]

true x100000

You are not getting racing pads for 8.99 @ the auto parts store.

[Titan Uranus]

What are the measures to bullet proof a sr20det? , I planned on rebuilding with stock internals and opening oil passages \ oil pan etc . A new bb turbo .. and so on .. What helps make a sr20det a decent daily driver but getting performance out of it? From what I have read the pitfalls tend to be cooling and sr's are oil hungry .

This will be my daily , I am more concerned about taking a 8 hour drive in it than I am getting some "magic 300hp number" . So comfort is also a consideration , Which leads me to the topic of suspension .




as long as you keep fresh oil in the motor it will last for ever, since you are not going for any high horespower numbers and are keeping it daily driven, stock motor will be fine, i know many of people who have there SR's as dailys even one brave soul whos uses his 550hp sr as his daily driver. if you do end up rebuild make sure you get a brand new oil pump, if not, i dont consider it to be rebuilt. also as you have probably read, s14 water pump, and your cooling issues are almost completly takin care of. Stock internals will last forever. problems i see alot are people not changing there oil and then rod knock occurs. SAFC is an ok way to go to get it tunned out but rom tune is better, once again 550hp friend is getting 30mpg. and for your other questions about brakes and suspension, it all depends on your intended purpose of the car, if its just going to be strait daily driver or if you will be doing auto x events in the car or what not.

[Synd]

true x100000

You are not getting racing pads for 8.99 @ the auto parts store.

Well ive used porterfield on all my cars , ever since i changed from hawk and ebc green stuff to them .. Id still like to maybe try carbotech , doubt there is much difference in feel ( for my foot anyway ) .


And to titan , thanks for the info , I will be replacing the oil pump etc on the engine before it goes in anyway. :hsdance: . as for 500+ , maybe its different with an sr but , I was unable to even get my engine running correctly at those numbers , let alone getting it to idle .



The idea I have for the car is along the lines of uhm , well honestly , a poser . I in no way could afford the tires or other issues that come along with drifting , id much rather do auto x so I have an idea of things that I have a good possibility of replacing ( brake pads ) ..

I just do not know exactly what its stressing , i suppose everything auto x does and more. since ive owned mostly awd and fr cars ( besides the datsun ) drifting in any form is fairly new to me although ive known about it for quite some time when my sister told me about it ( she lived in japan working at disney ) .. I suppose I was too young to understand it , since I thought they did it just to take corners faster.

time to see 28 weeks later , car is being parted out once the c5 is out of the garage so i have room for it. if anyone could give me pointers and things to look for on a 240sx ( besides the obvious leaks etc ) id app it , since i have no clue about what faulty spots they have. I am in FL so i do not have to worry about rust prone areas.

[Anto]

& if you still want bigger than z32 brakes, go for the STi Brembo / Evo rotor combo. gangster shit

[Titan Uranus]

I am in FL so i do not have to worry about rust prone areas.
lol thats what you think, where are you located, i might be able to give you a hand, not trying to advertise or anything, but i know our shop has a couple clean fast backs for sale, and we are constantly getting s13s in from auction

[komedy]

the AC is an easy install. you have to find a guy who can cut and reweld the two ends on the ac line and thats it. some guy does it up in washingting for a cheap price including shipping, after that its all plug and play.

[G-spec]

I just did the z32 swap on the front and rear of my s13. I used Rotora slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and of course stainless braided conversion lines...To be honest i'm still looking for a Tokico BMC out of a 240 to grad the flare fitting of of to do my z32 BMC install, but really havn't hadany issues to date. The car stops great from any speed, and has yet to exhibit any fade no matter how spirited the driving, or repetitive the stops. Grand total out-of-pocket was still under $1,000.

Q45 brake upgrade is a cheaper alternative that uses 2 piston front calipers, yet similar sized rotors as the z32 counterpart. I've read on plenty of site that the f/r bias is fairly close to stock with that swap when using a performance pad on the stock rear brakes. Just food for thought.

[Synd]

I just did the z32 swap on the front and rear of my s13. I used Rotora slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and of course stainless braided conversion lines...To be honest i'm still looking for a Tokico BMC out of a 240 to grad the flare fitting of of to do my z32 BMC install, but really havn't hadany issues to date. The car stops great from any speed, and has yet to exhibit any fade no matter how spirited the driving, or repetitive the stops. Grand total out-of-pocket was still under $1,000.

Q45 brake upgrade is a cheaper alternative that uses 2 piston front calipers, yet similar sized rotors as the z32 counterpart. I've read on plenty of site that the f/r bias is fairly close to stock with that swap when using a performance pad on the stock rear brakes. Just food for thought.

Ya I have been doing a fair amount of reading on this , Oddly enough removing the hicas looks like more of a pain in the butt .. I am also curious about the 5 stud hubs .. I have searched the forums but there was not a straight FAQ i could locate . Also it seems on some sites like spl etc the 5 stud hubs cost 500? .. If anyone could point me in the proper direction id app it .

In other news , im green light for doing all of this . I changed the oil in the dsm and im getting break up that does not seem to be boost leak related . and i saw white smoke ( new 2.3 rebuild , never brought it past 3200 till today i took it to 3800 was breaking up and small puffs ) .. I had too much money and over built the engine . and all i wanted was a 13 second daily awd car ( before wrx and evo's were out , not like i could afford them anyway )

Live and learn I suppose. having a car with a/c is going to be so nice .

[G-spec]

You dont have to go 5-lug to do the z32 brake swap, you can simply drill/have drilled the rotors to the 4-lug pattern. Most SE wheels will clear them just fine. Keep in mind though that you wont have an e-brake in the back unless you swap in the brake backing plate with all the hardware, and z32 2+2 e-brake cables (also have extentions out there for like $35 that allow you to use you exsisting lines) You could get away with using the 4-lug hubs even with the z32 e-brake set-up. I simply used NA Z32 rear hubs (direct bolt on swap) and Ichiba front conversion hubs (also a straight bolt on deal)

I feel you on the ac....i didnt bother when i did my swap, but it doesnt really bother me...i've only put 10k miles on the swap in 2 years. Also not running PS, because i'm a rebel to the 240 crowd and hate drifting...lol Drags more my thing.

Best of luck with your upgrades and keep us posted!

[Synd]

Hey guys , well this week end I go to pick her up . I found a black coupe with 98k for 2500 , its a 1 time owner by a couple of old ladies ( sisters ) has not been drove much in the past due to them I think being too old too drive now.

Unfortunately its automatic ( for some reason these are diffacult for me to drive now heh ) But I supposed ill just switch to 5sp once I decide to do the swap. Just sucks since this is last on my list of to do with the car.

I have ordered a few parts , stance gr+ pro's and a few other suspension goodies . I am still debating on wheels because of sizes etc . Since all my previous cars that I have "tuned" have been awd its a little different when choosing tire sizes as some of you know.

Anyway I had 2 quick questions , I have not seen the car personally I believe its a 90 so I am guessing its going to have the single and dual over head cam. I am not concerned about performance but reliability. Are they fairly decent? , And how much harder does this now make retaining AC when I do my swap ( i heard doing it with the dohc model was much easier )

My main thing is basically the conversion since this is going to be first on the list when I get it , I am actually browsing right now and plan to buy the parts ( Still deciding if i should go for trip projectors or dual .. I like them better than the bricks ). A simple question I have though is as I do not see a write up ( step by step guide )? I am confused as some of the conversions come with the whole radiator support , Why is this? Is it a tad harder than just removing the fenders , hood , bumper/lights?

If anyone knows of a faq write up I would app it , I am still deciding on what kit too kit that looks very smooth and is not too over whelming so I am not laughed at while stopped at a light heh.

Thanks guys you have all been alot of help. ( ill get pictures of the car soon and make a progression thread if those are allowed )

[Synd]

You dont have to go 5-lug to do the z32 brake swap, you can simply drill/have drilled the rotors to the 4-lug pattern. Most SE wheels will clear them just fine. Keep in mind though that you wont have an e-brake in the back unless you swap in the brake backing plate with all the hardware, and z32 2+2 e-brake cables (also have extentions out there for like $35 that allow you to use you exsisting lines) You could get away with using the 4-lug hubs even with the z32 e-brake set-up. I simply used NA Z32 rear hubs (direct bolt on swap) and Ichiba front conversion hubs (also a straight bolt on deal)

I feel you on the ac....i didnt bother when i did my swap, but it doesnt really bother me...i've only put 10k miles on the swap in 2 years. Also not running PS, because i'm a rebel to the 240 crowd and hate drifting...lol Drags more my thing.

Best of luck with your upgrades and keep us posted!

Thanks , Heh this seems complicated too me the brake thing , hopefully after some MOAR coffee I will be able to understand it heh. As for drifting , Im not a huge fan of it either , I'll use the car at some track events as I already had my fun with my dsm doing drag and personally having a high 10 daily was the worst mistake I have ever made.

As for the A/C I am not gigantic but at 5'11 215 I have a fat jacket and in florida heat I die. I do not care to go very fast , just a nice looking , smooth , daily driver that I can enjoy . With spirited driving from time to time. ( I do not like PS either , and once the car is no longer my daily ( once the new camaro drops in price after it comes out ) I will remove the ps , as with my 72 datsun I loved having no PS and actually being able to feel the road )

[fliprayzin240sx]

Biggest thing with SRs around here is that you gotta shoot for a certain HP goal, without one, nobody will have a clue on which route to give you and how much mod.

[Synd]

Biggest thing with SRs around here is that you gotta shoot for a certain HP goal, without one, nobody will have a clue on which route to give you and how much mod.

Ya im not even concerned about that , or asking for what mods to get on the engine . Since I cant base what horsepower does what on these cars id say 13.5 in the 1/4 is what I would shoot for. I am still not sure what averages are etc since there is A LOT too read on this board and im slowly doing so. Id like more bullet proof horsepower than something that can dyno high a few times.

I can't wait till I get started :D

[RanciD]

Why bother getting coilovers, z32 brakes and shit if all you want is a daily driver? Whether you want to be a poser or not there's no point in wasting money on coilovers when you can get a shock/spring combo for half the money that will be just as good for your purposes. KYB AGX with Eibach springs, decent brake pads, SR swap and your car will be more than enough for a fun daily driver that will live up to your poser needs. Throw on a body kit and some baller "VIP style" wheels, go chill in some parking lot acting tough and be done with it.

Now if you want to autocross and be competitive things are a little different but before we can give you suggestions you need to pick a class. An SR swap is going to put you in SM right away so given your budget I would rule out ever being competitive if you are set on going that route.

[steve shadows]

Ya im not even concerned about that , or asking for what mods to get on the engine . Since I cant base what horsepower does what on these cars id say 13.5 in the 1/4 is what I would shoot for. I am still not sure what averages are etc since there is A LOT too read on this board and im slowly doing so. Id like more bullet proof horsepower than something that can dyno high a few times.

I can't wait till I get started :D

Your stock turbocharger will suffice in this case.

Or switch to an s15 turbo for the potential higher efficiency and more air capacity in the higher rpm ranges.

18 psi on a s15 turbo can net a 12.8 if you can drive like batman and are aired down on decent tires.

Id say your off to a good start. Suspension, good quality boost controller and try to track down an ecu or tuned rom for 555cc injectors and grab those too. When you finally go for the larger turbo youll have everything ready and the eprom's that are tuned for 2871R's work out pretty well with the S15 Turbo (turbine efficency isnt far off).

More than anything what type of racing do you want to do more than others?

cheers

[NiZMo1o1]

What part of FL are you in ? I saw a black Kouki for sale for about 3gs , if your in the south fl area give me a PM cause my cousins shop do alot of the swap and what not down here

[Synd]

Why bother getting coilovers, z32 brakes and shit if all you want is a daily driver? Whether you want to be a poser or not there's no point in wasting money on coilovers when you can get a shock/spring combo for half the money that will be just as good for your purposes. KYB AGX with Eibach springs, decent brake pads, SR swap and your car will be more than enough for a fun daily driver that will live up to your poser needs. Throw on a body kit and some baller "VIP style" wheels, go chill in some parking lot acting tough and be done with it.

Now if you want to autocross and be competitive things are a little different but before we can give you suggestions you need to pick a class. An SR swap is going to put you in SM right away so given your budget I would rule out ever being competitive if you are set on going that route.

The first part of your paragraph seems a little harsh , Yes I plan on sitting a parking lot playing mario kart DS waving at people. I had KYB AGX on my talon , they were awful and made for a uncomfortable drive. I was hoping by getting the stance I could have a set up that could be more adjustable and comfortable . And I am not very tough , I think my record in fights is 0-0 since I curl up in a ball and say please dont hurt me. So I doubt that would suit me well. I like my car too look decent , I have owned fast cars in the past and know going fast should be low on the priority list and set up other things first. If you read my whole thread the car is going to be a slow progression. As stated before I am not even concerned with engine performance at the moment just reliability .

So once the time comes I'd like to be able to do the swap make some adjustments and be ready to go. In fact I think when I do the swap im going to make my own little derive label on the valve cover just so I can be a bigger "poser" to get you fustrated. Being a poser over what I am not exactly sure , I guess ill be the first one on this site to upgrade everything else before the engine? and reason for the body kit is because I enjoy the silvia lights and there are some front bumpers I thought that looked decent. Please don't be a jerk or I will be forced to curl up into a ball and cry.

I'll enter touring after I get badges off of a 4dr car, im a poser after all.


Your stock turbocharger will suffice in this case.

Or switch to an s15 turbo for the potential higher efficiency and more air capacity in the higher rpm ranges.

18 psi on a s15 turbo can net a 12.8 if you can drive like batman and are aired down on decent tires.

Id say your off to a good start. Suspension, good quality boost controller and try to track down an ecu or tuned rom for 555cc injectors and grab those too. When you finally go for the larger turbo youll have everything ready and the eprom's that are tuned for 2871R's work out pretty well with the S15 Turbo (turbine efficency isnt far off).

More than anything what type of racing do you want to do more than others?

cheers

Hey Steve thanks for not being a doodie head ,

Its good to know about the turbo , I am use to 16g's etc and planned on sticking to a similar size . Since after adding a gt30r to my dsm it was no longer fun even though I was "faster". Ill add a 2871r , Just for piece of mind . I will probably do a basic rebuild , I would like to keep things simple engine wise and focus more on cooling / oil eff etc .

As for type of racing I am not exactly sure , since its a daily id like to keep to solo incase I get banged up , Although from what I am reading there does not seem to be any information on the div for a sr20det since it is not US spec. Nasa time trial seems intresting , as I'd enjoy to be with other cars on an actual track rather than cone racing. But it seems I would at least need to buy a miata or something to get advancement and then enter time trial with the 240 ( unless I have to get certified in that car *shrug* im clueless ) .. Really I just want to go to track day events and have a good time :D not too concerned about getting points or winning.

Thanks .

What part of FL are you in ? I saw a black Kouki for sale for about 3gs , if your in the south fl area give me a PM cause my cousins shop do alot of the swap and what not down here

I live in Central Florida and late summer / winter in alaska. As for doing the swap I am pretty set on doing it myself or just letting enjuku do it. Reason being is , I am only getting a 240sx because of the horrible luck of people "fixing" my dsm. Even with limited knowledge on efi cars and any kind of force induction I was doing better work than shops were. My current car I have spent 16k and its running like crap but probably something simple like a boost leak or something with the ecu management . Since I cannot figure out the problem on my own I am parting it. I have learned to trust no one in fixing your car. I'd only go to enjuku because its something they do so often and is proven beyond a doubt and willing to work through problems that might arise.

[RanciD]

The first part of your paragraph seems a little harsh , Yes I plan on sitting a parking lot playing mario kart DS waving at people. I had KYB AGX on my talon , they were awful and made for a uncomfortable drive. I was hoping by getting the stance I could have a set up that could be more adjustable and comfortable . And I am not very tough , I think my record in fights is 0-0 since I curl up in a ball and say please dont hurt me. So I doubt that would suit me well. I like my car too look decent , I have owned fast cars in the past and know going fast should be low on the priority list and set up other things first. If you read my whole thread the car is going to be a slow progression. As stated before I am not even concerned with engine performance at the moment just reliability .

So once the time comes I'd like to be able to do the swap make some adjustments and be ready to go. In fact I think when I do the swap im going to make my own little derive label on the valve cover just so I can be a bigger "poser" to get you fustrated. Being a poser over what I am not exactly sure , I guess ill be the first one on this site to upgrade everything else before the engine? and reason for the body kit is because I enjoy the silvia lights and there are some front bumpers I thought that looked decent. Please don't be a jerk or I will be forced to curl up into a ball and cry.

Chillll I was just poking some fun cause of this

The idea I have for the car is along the lines of uhm , well honestly , a poser .

If you want a body kit and whatever that's cool, it's your car so you should do what you want with it. I just figure you could save some money here and there on other things that aren't necessary for what you intend to do with the car. For now just get out there and drive and upgrade as you need it. What good are battle version arms, 16 way adjustable coilovers, etc. if you don't know how adjusting them will affect the way you drive. But if for example you get out there and go to a few autocrosses then realize hey I need to dial out some of this oversteer you will start looking at different ways to do it and how it will affect the balance of your car. Until you feel your brakes fading there isn't much reason to upgrade to Z32. Basically all I'm saying is the most important part of driving is you, and until you are driving your car past the potential of your stock parts high tech coilovers and big brakes won't really help you. Get out there and enjoy the fact that your car actually runs :)

All it takes to build a fast car is money and zipties. Building a fast driver takes time, passion and dedication. and zipties.