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View Full Version : Wax Help...(confusing)


pl'ss13
05-19-2007, 10:29 AM
Hey all,
I had read the WAX post but just want to know more detail how the methods.

I just want to make sure the step to wax your car...

1. Wash your car... then dry it .... and then....
2. ?
3. ?...


what should go second... paint cleaner then clay and then wax... or other ways.

Phlip
05-19-2007, 10:30 AM
wash (twice)
dry
paint cleaner
clay bar
polish
wax

use microfiber cloths for the polish and wax and shit

... that's how I did it when I had paint worth waxing, and how I will when I do again

gotta240
05-19-2007, 10:32 AM
Thats pretty much it... but i prefer a SEALANT(synthetic wax) instead of the oldschool stuff. The Meguires M21 is what i use and love

Phlip
05-19-2007, 10:34 AM
I'm old school, carnuba is my wax, and Meguiar's Gold Class is still my weapon of choice

gotta240
05-19-2007, 10:40 AM
Have you tried the m21? Once you do, you'll never look back!!! Easy on, easier off, longer lasting, whats not to like?!?!?!

Phlip
05-19-2007, 10:44 AM
The easy on easy off and long lasting is far from top of my list
I am in the mind that I like what I like, as it were right now; I am waiting and will hopefully have my car painted next month, then I MIGHT try it, but I will have had several years of Gold Class NEVER failing me, so I will have to wait and see even then.

thejapino
05-19-2007, 10:46 AM
Meguiars gold class is good stuff. You cant go wrong!!

Jonnie Fraz
05-19-2007, 10:46 AM
I like this wax Top of The Line (http://www.topoftheline.com/toltradcarwa.html) It is a little pricey, but you won't find a better wax. I buy all my care care products from these guys.

5t341tH
05-19-2007, 03:55 PM
whats that paint cleaner stuff? i never heard of em

sal240sx
05-19-2007, 03:57 PM
If youre gonna go all out and claybar the car too, you should wash it with Dawn first. It removes all of the previous wax and gives you a clean slate to work with.

Phlip
05-19-2007, 03:58 PM
^^^ That man speaks the truth, but I would be worried about the potential detriment to my clearcoat

Chrischeezer
05-19-2007, 04:16 PM
get P21s

best wax on the market, read reviews not vendors websites.

and also look into clay bar, i used a clay bar on my car..(8 month old paint) it came out SO freekin smooth... and after i waxed it OMG..

P21s is the best...

Anto
05-19-2007, 06:12 PM
LISTEN!

Let me tell you what I like to do.

Wash car in gloomy weather. Anytime when the sun isn't out.
BEFORE the hose water dries on the car (after the wash phase), rinse it off with drinking or distilled water. Your car dries with no water spots.

I then Clay Bar the car, including the windows. It removes much of the fallout stuck to it, and feels super smooth afterward.

That's followed by rubbing compound, to clean off the old crap. (not the windows)
I then hit it with polishing compound.
After that, I hit it with Klass AIO Polish
THEN, Klasse SEALANT ( you can use this on the windows ).

Wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure, then I apply Meg's pure Canaruba wax.

Shit's SEXY afterward. like a new car.

Also, here's a nice tip. Use those jugs of distilled water for your windshield wiper fluid. When used in conjuction AFTER a clay bar, water drips down your front window like rain-x was applied to it. wow


Here's a good forum & online shop:

www.autogeek.net
www.autogeekonline.net

fromxtor
05-19-2007, 06:19 PM
The easy on easy off and long lasting is far from top of my list
I am in the mind that I like what I like, as it were right now; I am waiting and will hopefully have my car painted next month, then I MIGHT try it, but I will have had several years of Gold Class NEVER failing me, so I will have to wait and see even then.

Better be putting some sort of aero and wheels on it sucka.:x: :rofl:

s13gold
05-19-2007, 07:16 PM
i wouldnt use dawn...those dishwashing soaps have HARSH ass detergents and will dry up the clear coat making it faded permanently...

unless proven otherwise through a test study or some actual proof, dont use household dishwashing soap on cars..

ThatGuy
05-19-2007, 07:22 PM
The only time I've heard of using Dawn, or any other dish soap, was when my wife and I both drove Saturns. The dealer recommended using them. It made me laugh since the car is made from Tupperware.

What about the Mr.Clean AutoDry thing? Any reviews?

djtrickz
05-19-2007, 07:53 PM
^ the mr clean auto dry just purifies the water coming in. it's ok.

tknbkthrsdy4anfg
05-19-2007, 07:58 PM
The spot free dry has worked pretty good in my experience

Jung918
05-19-2007, 09:22 PM
LISTEN!

Let me tell you what I like to do.

Wash car in gloomy weather. Anytime when the sun isn't out.
BEFORE the hose water dries on the car (after the wash phase), rinse it off with drinking or distilled water. Your car dries with no water spots.

I then Clay Bar the car, including the windows. It removes much of the fallout stuck to it, and feels super smooth afterward.

That's followed by rubbing compound, to clean off the old crap. (not the windows)
I then hit it with polishing compound.
After that, I hit it with Klass AIO Polish
THEN, Klasse SEALANT ( you can use this on the windows ).

Wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure, then I apply Meg's pure Canaruba wax.

Shit's SEXY afterward. like a new car.

Also, here's a nice tip. Use those jugs of distilled water for your windshield wiper fluid. When used in conjuction AFTER a clay bar, water drips down your front window like rain-x was applied to it. wow


Here's a good forum & online shop:

www.autogeek.net
www.autogeekonline.net

Are you using the new or old Klass AIO?
From what I understand, they had to stop using a certain chemical due to regulations.

My method is:
Wash
Clay bar - You should only need to do this once or twice a year
wash & dry
scratch remover
paint cleaner
synthetic wax - Let dry for 24 hours
carnuba wax

sal240sx
05-19-2007, 09:29 PM
i wouldnt use dawn...those dishwashing soaps have HARSH ass detergents and will dry up the clear coat making it faded permanently...

unless proven otherwise through a test study or some actual proof, dont use household dishwashing soap on cars..

I'm not saying to make a habit of washing the car with Dawn. I'm just saying if he wants a clean slate, the Dawn will remove all of the old wax, oils, etc.

Phlip
05-19-2007, 09:32 PM
I'm not saying to make a habit of washing the car with Dawn. I'm just saying if he wants a clean slate, the Dawn will remove all of the old wax, oils, etc.

That is ALSO what paint cleaners and clay bars do, without compromising the clearcoat itself.
Now, if you don't give a piss and just want it as absolutely CLEARED of dirt and all that other shit as possible, then knock yourself dead with the dish detergent

DLo Eric
05-19-2007, 10:39 PM
On a side note, what does everyone use to clean/polish wheels with?

I've been on and off with different brands but nothing has really wanted me to stick with one.

bamaboy
05-19-2007, 10:40 PM
I have read in several places that anything other than pure, natural, carnuba wax will leave polymers on your paint that will butt fuck anyone who tries to do any kind of refinishing to your car in the future. I haven't personally experienced this but a friend of my dads who restores old muscle cars said that some of the chemicals they use in synthetic waxes to make it dry faster does leave behind chemicals that aren't very nice to the chemicals painters have to use.

Jung918
05-19-2007, 10:47 PM
for wheels, I use synthetic wax. I put on a couple of coats, leaving time to dry between each coat. I then just use a rag and car wash soap.

Yum-Yum
05-20-2007, 04:17 PM
What is the best scratch-removing solution/wax?

Phlip
05-20-2007, 04:26 PM
What is the best scratch-removing solution/wax?

Personally, if I have visible scratches/swirls, I use Meguiar's Scratch-X, I work it into my process just before the polish

speedstar01
05-20-2007, 05:17 PM
Philip is correct. i cant stress how much microfiber cloths ROCK! compared to regular towels they are amazing at removing wax(and they dont cost much) pick up some and enjoy :)
wash (twice)
dry
paint cleaner
clay bar
polish
wax

use microfiber cloths for the polish and wax and shit

... that's how I did it when I had paint worth waxing, and how I will when I do again

kandyflip445
05-20-2007, 07:23 PM
Ok! First off, get yourself a nice Dual Action sander/buffer.

Get some nice foam pads, one for each cemical you use.

Some microfiber towels.

A clay bar and some quick detailer. You can use CAR soap and water in a spray bottle in stead of quick detailer.

I like to use Meguiars Swirl remover 2.0, Show Car Polish, and NXT Tech Wax. Great products and they leave the paint looking awesome.

Also some other stuff like a nice Chenelle (sp?) mitt, some paintbrushes (not the foam ones), a bucket, hose and nozzle.

First find a nice shady spot where you can wash the car. Preferably a slanted driveway so the water drains down. Rinse the car off from top to bottom. Make sure you rinse the wheel wells out really well and go down any body lines with the hose. Like down the sides of the hood to wash away what dirt you can.

Mix up some soap in a clean bucket to the right dilution. If you use too much soap it will leave a whitish film on your car after you rinse. If you don't use enough you'll have to wash your car again cause it's still dirty. A shot glass to measure out soap is handy since most soaps are measured in ounces per gallon. Now, when you wash the car you should change out your water/soap mix whenever is starts to get dirty. Depending on how dirty your car is you should have to do it between 2-5 times for a small car like a 240. You can do more but I wouldn't recommend less than 2. Or, you can use the 2 bucket method. Fill one with your soapy water and one with just water. Use the water one to rinse out your mitt, then dip it in the soapy water to wash the car.

When you wash the car go from the top to bottom just like you did with the rinse step. You can use the paintbrushes in the doorcracks and moldings to get dirt out. Just dip it in the soapy water and go at it. It also works great to clean the inside of the fuel filler door. Get the windshield wipers too, they're almost always missed. Make sure you rinse out your mitt frequently to get rid of dirt inside of it.

After that I use a rag and clean the wheels and a tire brush to get the tires. Use the wheel rag to get the wheel wells also.

To rinse off the car I would reccommend a short length of hose that is cut off on one end and has a valve in-line. When you rinse the car off it makes the water sheet off the car and floats dirt away much better. Rinse top to bottom.

To dry the car I use a Jelly Blade and some microfibers. MAKE SURE YOU WASH THE JELLY BLADE. If you do this and you have washed the car well it will not scratch your car. If not, expect lines/swirls. Go over the car once. Then open and shut the doors to get that hidding water out and dry that.

Then take a towel and dampen it with soapy water and another in clean water. Go around the inside of the door jams, inside of the hood edges, and anywhere else you didn't get with the towels to get those clean. Brushes work good in the cracks also. Dry off with a clean towel.

Once the car is nice and dry make sure the panels are cool to the touch before claying or polishing/waxing. If you have good shade this shouldn't be a problem.

Get your soapy water and clay the car. Do small areas at a time. Like 1X1 foot squares. You should feel a little bit of resistence when sliding the clay and when it's clean you'll feel the clay just slide like butter in a frying pan. If it sticks to the car you aren't using enough lube. *soapy water or detailer*
Wipe down the areas you clay with a clean moist microfiber as you go.

Get your buffer out and slap a corresponding pad to what you plan on using. If you have bad swirls start with the Swirl Remover 2.0. More than one application may be required to get the swirls out. Look on Meguiars forums to find out what pad goes with what product and what speed you should run it at.

Apply a "X" of the product to the pad on the buffer. Put the pad to the car and smear it a little bit so the stuff doesn't fling off at you when you start. Turn on the buffer and go in overlapping lines back and forth. I do one panel at a time.

With the Show Car Polish it's about the same thing. I use a lot of this stuff as it's supposed to replace the oils in the paint that are lost over time and restores the deep shine to the paint. Make sure you use a different pad.

You can use a pad for both application and removal of wax. Just put it on with the pad and take it off with the same pad. You can use your finger in a towel to get wax residue off the pad inbetween if you like. After that go over the car with a microfiber to make it really shine. It just helps buff up that wax a little better. They also make a microfiber bonnet you can throw on the buffer to make it faster.

Then clean the windows. Apply tire dressing if you desire. Maybe polish the exhaust and any plastic/metal parts. Like the lights.

By now your car should be shinning brightly and you'll be the envy of every car guy on the block. lol Enjoy.

This should take you a good couple of hours to do the whole thing. And then there's the inside to do. ><

Couple of other tips:

Rip the tags off microfibers. Don't let a great towel suck and scratch your car.

Don't polish or wax a car for at least a month, maybe 3, after painting. The paint has to cure before you can do anything like this.

A buffer isn't needed but makes life sooo much easier. If you do things by hand use a product meant for it. If you use a buffer make sure the product is meant for that also.

Don't use ammonia based products on tint. ><

Rinse your washing mitt/towel/brush A LOT. This is the easiest thing you can do to avoid swirls. As this is what causes swirls, use a light hand to rub over the car. It's better to go over a spot many times with fresh cleaner than to go over it once really hard and scratch something.

They make different products with differnt levels of abrasiveness. Use the less abrasive products first and work your way up. Not the other way around. Clay also have differnt levels of abrasiveness. Use the less abrasive one. It should be more than enough.

Quick detailer is a cool thing to have around in your trunk. Just make sure the panel you want to wipe down is cool or it will streak on the car. Also make sure it's still pretty clean or it will just smear the dirt around.

kandyflip445
05-20-2007, 07:29 PM
I forgot to add that polishing and swirl removers or anything that wears the paint/clear coat should only need to be done about twice a year. If you're doing it every time you wash the car you're just wearing your paint quicker.

A good way to tell if you need to re-wax the car is, on a clean panel, run your finger down the side. If your finger glides down the car then there is still some time before the next wax. If your finger drags then you should wax it.

Wax can be done every time you wash your car however.

And for you question, lol, I like to clay first, then use a cleaner/polish. The clay will get the big stuff stuck on the car and little stuff as well. The cleaner/polish will help bring back the luster. And then the wax will protect it.


Good luck!

Phlip
05-20-2007, 11:24 PM
If you do not have a buffer, DO NOT apply ANY product to the whole car, then come back and strip it, apply it one panel at a time, and take your hood in halves, ESPECIALLY if you don't have access to shade.
Kandyflip is right about the Meguiar's show car glaze as the polish, #7 is my weapon of choice... *EDIT* this is it:
http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-pure-polishes/Show-Car-Glaze

Phlip
05-20-2007, 11:53 PM
And discount warehouse clubs are the way to go for the microfiber, I got a HUGE pack of them in Costco for like 20 bucks in 2005 and I still use them. Till haven't used all of the towels in the pack.
Remember, keep the part you're using clean, proper folding yields you 8 usable sides, exploit that, and WHEN you wash them, go light as possible on the detergent and ZERO fabric softener.

Jung918
05-21-2007, 12:11 AM
I use a product called poorboys 2.5 scratch remover. I use it with my porter 7427 with a sonus orange pad.

Some products recommend a WOWO (wipe on wipe off) method. I normally just do the whole car with the DA (dual action) and wipe it off.

www.autopia.org is a forum for the car detailing freaks.

kandyflip445
05-21-2007, 07:47 AM
And when using detergent to clean microfibers, use the liquid variety. People tend to shy away from using the powder because they think some of it may not dissolve completely and cause swirls. I, personally, haven't tried. I just always use the liquid. Also, DO NOT USE SOFTENERS ON MICROFIBERS. It will ruin the great ability that they have to soak up water.

I bought a 3 packs of 25 from wal-mart for like $10 each.

All my stuff I get from a local detailing shop.

http://sparkleauto.com/

That's their website. If you call in an order let them know that Brian (the guy from Quizno's) sent you. lol

speedstar01
05-24-2007, 10:37 AM
And discount warehouse clubs are the way to go for the microfiber, I got a HUGE pack of them in Costco for like 20 bucks in 2005 and I still use them. Till haven't used all of the towels in the pack.
Remember, keep the part you're using clean, proper folding yields you 8 usable sides, exploit that, and WHEN you wash them, go light as possible on the detergent and ZERO fabric softener.

i will most definately try my local warehouse store and stock up on microfiber cloths :) i have been getting mine from random dollar stores (usually 3 for a dollar or so)

and i never knew to use zero fabric softener? ive never heard of that,:confused: but i will try it next time i wash em:angel:

Phlip
05-24-2007, 11:29 AM
i will most definately try my local warehouse store and stock up on microfiber cloths :) i have been getting mine from random dollar stores (usually 3 for a dollar or so)

and i never knew to use zero fabric softener? ive never heard of that,:confused: but i will try it next time i wash em:angel:

Let me clarify, when I say "ZERO" I mean not to use any at all, I mean JUST use your detergent (as mild as you can, if you have a choice) and DO NOT use fabric softener

kandyflip445
05-24-2007, 07:05 PM
The foam pads you use for a good buffer shouldn't be washed in a machine because the backing can come off or otherwise ruin the pad.

I use the auto foaming dawn soap and some hot water in a sink. Let the pad sit in there and soak up the soapy water and then squeeze the crap right out. You may have to soak and squeeze a few times to get it looking pretty good. Then drain the sink and rinse the pad with clean water and keep squeezing it out untill there is no more soap coming out. Then mash the pad inbetween some microfibers to get most of the water out and let it air dry overnight before you use it again.

Some people say to use a brush on the pads but I messed up a 10 dollar pad doing it that way. Screw that. lol

Jung918
05-24-2007, 07:29 PM
^ thats what I do with my pads also. There is a special chemical used to clean just microfibers. Also, there are different quality of microfibers. The ones that they usually sell at the stores are cheaper. If you are anal, you can do the CD test. You get a brand new blank cd and use the microfiber on it. If it scratches, then don't use it. But those are for the most extreme detailers. Also, get a waffle weave. Those are used for drying. Then the regular microfibers I use to wipe off wax. I have acouple of cheap ones that I use for the interior. For my stock wheels, I just use terry cloths.

kandyflip445
05-24-2007, 08:26 PM
Where is this chemical to clean microfibers found? I'd like to try some if it's not crazy expensive compared to normal detergent.

Jung918
05-25-2007, 12:53 AM
^ http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin620.html
I used this product but when I ran out I just used liquid detergent.
There are other companies that sell stuff like that also. I have also used their carnuba wax with amazing results. However, it was $40 for a can.

sijia10358
05-26-2007, 01:23 PM
damn!! so many steps to wash ur car?!?! im too lazy for that! lol

s14xman
05-26-2007, 01:37 PM
http://tropi-care.com/ go to the gallery and see some of the cars

using a porter cable and these products:

before swirl cutter:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/s14xman/DSC04114.jpg

after swirl cutter:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/s14xman/DSC04117.jpg

Phlip
05-26-2007, 02:35 PM
damn!! so many steps to wash ur car?!?! im too lazy for that! lol

You want it done, or do you want it done right?

kandyflip445
05-26-2007, 04:41 PM
http://tropi-care.com/ go to the gallery and see some of the cars

using a porter cable and these products:

before swirl cutter:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/s14xman/DSC04114.jpg

after swirl cutter:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/s14xman/DSC04117.jpg

Looks like he could use a couple passes of polish and some wax too. :D

WERDdabuilder
05-26-2007, 05:01 PM
If youre gonna go all out and claybar the car too, you should wash it with Dawn first. It removes all of the previous wax and gives you a clean slate to work with.

you sir get a :down: for using dish soap to wash cars.

Zilvia4eva
05-26-2007, 08:57 PM
Autopia.org....check the click & brag section,these guys are pros.:naughty:

Jung918
05-26-2007, 10:58 PM
You shouldn't be using an abrasive all the time. Maybe around 4 times a year or less. You can use glaze in between. It fills in the scratches but doesn't last too long.

floodo1
05-27-2007, 12:43 PM
Im suprised no one has talked about Zaino bros polishes....In my opinion this is the best stuff :)

Also using dawn on your car will NOT harm your paint, it will just strip off all previous waxes and polishes, leaving you with bare paint to work from. Naturally you should only do this occasionally, and with a reason.