stance in, break in period?

[overb0ost]

quick question, tried searching but no real information came up.

do i need to break in my stance coils? like drive a a few 100 miles on them on a soft setting?

i preloaed it to 1/4inch and set the dampening to 6 and 8 respectively. car is meant for drift and just slide a bit tonight, wondering if that was a bad idea.

any other points people can suggest? i love coils compared to my old Gr2s

thanks in advance!

ps: i also hear a whinning sound whenever i accelerate. read someone else saying they had a similar problem. maybe my alignment is wack causing some messed up toe settings. hrmmm

[sideview_180sx]

the whinning could be coming from your tranny or diff. since the car is stiffer . the springs are gonna heat up and settle over the course of a week or 2. the car could drop up to another 1/4 (rough guesstimate)then before. have fun be safe, take it to the track.

[articdragon192]

Some people say to let them settle, but that's mostly for ride height purposes.

[240trainee]

You could get a whining maybe if you have really fucked toe settings and your on all seasons I guess, seems weird to me.

There really is no break in for coils, you should be good to go. Will probably have to keep an eye on height as they tend to settle, but thats for height, not break in.

[fliprayzin240sx]

The only break in is drive it like you stole it....

[b4racing]

go get an alignment. you will need adjustable arms depending on how low you are

[EDacIouSX]

adjustable arms like rucas and toe

[overb0ost]

ya i need to install multi link, tc rods and nismo brace
then i'll head to do the alignment.

car seems kinda bumpy right now, but a few friends said when you get them new its a bit bumpy in the beginning and settles down after a few days of driving.

[SilviaSR20DET]

are toe arms really neccessary? all i have its Ruca's for now

[mr_240sx]

well without the toe arms youll be running some toe in (iirc) which will kill your tires quicker but it isnt necessary.

[overb0ost]

are toe arms really neccessary? all i have its Ruca's for now

yes all the multi link are necessary because they work hand in hand.

when camber is changed, toe is also changed iirc

[ripnbst]

get adj. toe arms and an alignment along with that other stuff you're putting on. The whining could be from a few things. Where does it sound like its coming from?

[wootwoot]

The only break in is drive it like you stole it....


this saying always bugged me because if I am going to drive something like I stole it, I'll be going the speed limit and doing anything I can to blend in. We got some dumb thieves out there eh?

[staygold24]

this saying always bugged me because if I am going to drive something like I stole it, I'll be going the speed limit and doing anything I can to blend in. We got some dumb thieves out there eh?

hahaha. Ive always thought that as well. Id get adjustable in the rear. The front should be fine though I would think

[overb0ost]

the sound is coming from the rear

also later today, im starting to hear a SLIGHT binding sound whenever i'm turning at low speeds. even if i try going to full lock when im standing still, it hits something and i have to move a bit to get to the real full lock.

is this normal or am i just too low now?

not sure what this new binding sound is.....i hope i didnt abuse the coils too fast =P ride feels the same just more noises now that weren't there before, got me a lil worried

i remember other members saying they also have heard binding sounds when reached a certain low height, is this common? what causes it?

[420sx]

break it in by clutch kickin in 3rd gear right before the apex comming into a corner ;)

[yudalicious]

are toe arms really neccessary? all i have its Ruca's for now

Depending on how low you are - I only have RUCAs and I can get the toe alignment that I want with stock arms - but my car isn't that low. If your car is really low, might as well get the toe arms before you do an alignment, to avoid spending money on multiple alignments.

I've never heard of a break in period for springs; I've always heard that quality springs shouldn't "settle."

[X 350GT X]

someone mention traction control. IMO, you don't really need it unless you track your car a lot and if you know a lot about suspension tuning. RUCA and Toe are enough for me. Since i drive my car more on the street with some high spirited driving, i never thought about my bump steer.

[SilviaSR20DET]

hmm i think i have one finger gap between my tires and fenders so iono if thats considered "low" but looks like i might as well get toe arms while im at it.

[overb0ost]

so whats this sound im hearing?

sounds like an echo of a rusty hinge moving. its not LOUD but noticeable.

you can hear it more inside the cabin then outside. i'm hoping its not my coils.

my tc rod bushings arnt in the best shape, so could that be where the noise is coming from?

it only happens at low speeds like 5km/hr or less when i turn the wheel

[mr_240sx]

coming from the front? ive had that noise on my gp sports since i installed them and tried everything to get rid of it but its still there and i gave up trying to fix it

[overb0ost]

i just checked the coils and the left side had an EASY 1/2 turn to tighten with no brute force.

i then used a hammer and got maybe another 1/2 turn.

i used the hammer only a little bit because with it, ill just keep tightening the whole thing changing the height by a signficant amt.

hammer > muscles

edit: putting in nismo brace and SPL tc rod. my current ones are ripped and i think it really amplifies the shittiness of them with coils. couldn't notice the shitty handling/grip with shocks/springs tho.

[Munch]

I dunno if youve looked at your coil's while turning the steering wheel, but if its anything like mine, the sound is the spring shifting in its seats....probably because the pillowball at the top isnt rotating.

As far as i know, nothing can get it rotating if that's your problem. If not, cool.

check out my thread here if u have problems, to see if any of the suggestions there can help you.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=140603

[sideview_180sx]

yah that popping was not having the nuts and spring perches completely snug tight. it was the spring popping while you drove around. BTW those high quality springs that shouldn't have to settle are the super high quality full titanium springs you either pay out the ass for or only find on race cars, which could possibly explain Swift spring pricing. BTW bumpsteer you adjust by realigning your entire geometry, or by getting the SPL tie rod ends(product placement) since they have spacers to allow you to keep your tie rods from having the raised angle from being lowered. YOu can never truly eliminate bumpsteer, just dial some of it out

[overb0ost]

thanks guys. i just found that out today.

and yes munch, i called stance today and they told me to run zero preload since the coils were valved for zero. i hand tightend the collar to make the spring snug then did 1-2 turns.

they also told me to torque the top bolt to around 50-60lbs which is best. mine were pretty loose since i never touched it ever.

i think i have the same problem as you and at one point the top bolt was so loose, it made the whole front end feel loose like my coils were going to come apart.

from reading that thread, it seems taht the ball joint will break itself in after a while so no worries. how long have you been driving with your stance Munch?

so im guessing after a week the springs should settle and be more firm. i find the ride a bit bouncy but i hear that goes away.

i was able to torque down the right top bolt to around 60 but the left side i could only do 50 till the spring just rotated itself. that side also is the side that feels loose when i go over bumps sometimes. ill try taking the wheels off and holding the struts and torquing all corners to 60lbs.

anyone else with this problem? and how long did it take to go away?

EDIT: im wondering if there is a difference between LEFT and RIGHT for the front coils or even rear. right now my fronts have a gap facing the engine bay (where the camber plate is, theres a gap or watever you'd like to call it). if i were to switch it up, the gap would be toward the fender. would that make any difference at all for the ball joint not moving?

[Dousan_PG]

yeah stance is a bit bouncy

mine clunk a bit
i been planning on retorque that top bolt, should be this weekend, been lazy :p

[cvc9216]

so stance coilovers are bouncy, clunky, come with loose nuts, and have upper mount bearing problems? I'm having second thoughts about buying a set now

[Dousan_PG]

those nuts come loose w/ many coilovers
my HEs and DDs had same thing, had to retighten
bouncy? what coilovers in the 1k range arent? they arent top of the line
they arent bottom
middle
u want top? Function D or SUper function
bottom?
low boyz


and by bouncy doesnt mean hitting your head on the roof
but not smooth

my DDs were damn smooth and soft
on all settings

these are a bit rougher.

u get what u pay for
DDs were 1700ish

stance are sub 1k?

[overb0ost]

what happens when that bolt gets too loose? the coilover falls apart or something?

the clunking makes me think the coilover will loosen into pieces, lol

[Dousan_PG]

just clunks
could fall out
but if u waited that long..well your stupid
mine have clunked for two track eventsnow
only hear it on the freeway

but it takes 5 seconds to tighten its easy as pie
i never tightend them when i got them
just my fronts do this

my HEs did the same back when Hes were new on the market and no oe knew, took me a while to find out haha

ithink some JICs i had did the same

all coilovers do at somepoint usually
easy fix

[A Spec Products]

those nuts come loose w/ many coilovers
my HEs and DDs had same thing, had to retighten
bouncy? what coilovers in the 1k range arent? they arent top of the line
they arent bottom
middle
u want top? Function D or SUper function
bottom?
low boyz


and by bouncy doesnt mean hitting your head on the roof
but not smooth

my DDs were damn smooth and soft
on all settings

these are a bit rougher.

u get what u pay for
DDs were 1700ish

stance are sub 1k?

Ditto

Before when I had Tein Flex same thing nut came loose clunk clunk big deal

Throw on a lemon wedge for garnish

Serve with a side of fries

[C. Senor]

i wanna know where dousan gets his stances for sub k...iirc the gr+'s normally go for around 1.2-1.3 k. but anyways. i just put mine on on saterday and those nuts aren't/weren't loose but i'll check again later on to see if they came loose, and mine are somewhat bouncy at low speeds, but are pretty smooth on the freeway. but i've only had mine for like 3-4 days. so far they're effin great.

[overb0ost]

if its to that point where it clunks, which means there is some play, would that affect handling in anyway? less responsive maybe?

[Munch]

and yes munch, i called stance today and they told me to run zero preload since the coils were valved for zero. i hand tightend the collar to make the spring snug then did 1-2 turns.

they also told me to torque the top bolt to around 50-60lbs which is best. mine were pretty loose since i never touched it ever...

...from reading that thread, it seems taht the ball joint will break itself in after a while so no worries. how long have you been driving with your stance Munch?

They said the exact same thing in their email reply to me....it was a rather sparse reply too.

Ive been riding on my stances for over a month, and the ball joint hasnt loosened up at all. My coilovers body still rotates around the piston, instead of at the ball joint.

i dont get clunks or anything on the freeway or driving straight at all...just when i turn the wheel and the spring shifts, which is always.

The coilovers still have a nice feel though, i like em, aside from the rotate-y problems.

[KiDyNomiTe]

i wanna know where dousan gets his stances for sub k...iirc the gr+'s normally go for around 1.2-1.3 k.

Senior citizens discount

[hotrodv]

Due to the fact that I have to install my stance, any pics of the nut you're talkin about? reading don't help me to understand..:kiss:

[240love]

ditto to that ^^^

[Munch]

its the big one in the middle. you cant miss it.

for the fronts btw. dont want you torquing the tiny nuts on the backs till they break.

[D1GP]

its the big one in the middle. you cant miss it.

for the fronts btw. dont want you torquing the tiny nuts on the backs till they break.

is there anything that needs to be torqued on the rear coils though? or is it just the front that comes with the loose nut?

[Munch]

the rear one isnt really as important...or at least it doesnt need to really be torqued. if you did you might break something cause the dampener adjust knob is right there and the nut goes around it.