my car sucks and i need help...

[SilvStylin45s]

Damn, what a weekend it has been...and not in a good way. Last week, i went through and did a wire tuck and polished the intake plenum cleaned up a few things in the engine bay and my friends and I got my cage to put in the car to get ready for the d1 drivers search. Fired the car up and it ran decently idled a little rough but we figured it was from bad gas. Friday morning fired it up and still idled quite rough but we loaded it on the trailer anyways if all else failed we could work it out in the pits. Stopped at a friends to have him look at it real quick (we were running early) Fired it up, idled like complete ass. Whole car shook. put in some fresh gas with some dry gas. checked for codes. It throwed 21 and 34. It runs stupidly rich, sounds like the timing is off and is stumbling over it self. It will rev up, but real rough. At that point in time we were going to be late and miss it. We weren't far from home so we brought it back to the shop and me being pissed off havent touched it since we loaded it off the trailer. I had a quick hour to check the car and it still puts out a 21, 34 code Knock sensor and igintion source. I have done some searching but most of the threads never say what they did to solve it. I figured i would ask you guys first to keep the flaming down. Theese motors are so much more tempermental than the SBC motors i am used to in the other racecar, and my patience is running thin but i really do love her when she runs. Thanks

[LB.Motoring]

Super Rough idle? shaking?

sounds like spark, missing one or more cyc, or a Maf etc. Problem, best of luck.

[Yoshi]

I had that exact prob once, but it was my hotpipe being 1/2 way off... I'm sure u checked all your joints already :/
Sorry to hear man :(

[SilvStylin45s]

All the ic piping is fine. When i unplug the front 2 coilpacks nothing changes, then when i unplug the third it dies on the spot. I will check out a few other things on it as we speak. Its definately getting fuel it seems. It is terribly rich. I believe it has to be something in the wiring. Everything worked great until i did the wire tuck and all.

[statik]

yeah sounds like you messed up the wiring, pull the harness and go over it again, make sure to check the harness grounds

[SilvStylin45s]

so i tested the plugs that plug into the coil pack. They go like this. - + E the minus reads nothing, the + reads 12v, and the E reads ground on all 4. The ignitor plug seems to fine as well. This makes me think it might be 2 injectors not firing?...Even though it ran really rich but it could only be dumping alot of fuel into the 2 cylinders to try and fix the air fuel ratio. I will keep looking and keep you folks updated, any ideas SR/wiring gurus?

[SilvStylin45s]

checked the injectors, all 4 are reading 12v and tach pulse. Im running out of ideas. I took off my top timing chan guide to keep it from rattling at idle. It ran fine then but that was before the wiring change. I have listed everything different from when it ran good last. It has to be a wiring issue. I will do timing next to see how that is, i just find it weird that it could have jumped timing or something weird like that. I know the knock sensor changes timing but shouldn't it change it back?

[SilvStylin45s]

im going to reset the timing tommarow..its the last thing i can think of.

[SilvStylin45s]

I reset the CAS according to FRSports write-up. Made sure the injectors seated properly on the o-ring. Checked the wiring and know it fired but idles really low and wont rev?...Im doing some searching right now but figured i would update. It must be timing related? Mods can you please move this to the tech area? I would appreciate it!

[LB.Motoring]

Chk Maf, wiring and settings, Im not sure what management your running?

would be good to chk timing...
'

[SilvStylin45s]

I let it warm up and its doing the same as before. I unplug the MAF and it changes the crappy idle.

[SilvStylin45s]

well, i pull plug one with the coil pack and ground it out and no spark. The power going to the coil pack is good. I did a comp test just for fun. 150 across the board...it was a dry test and the vehicle wasn't warmed up. I was also thinking back to when i changed the oil and i spilled some and it got near where the first 2 coil packs are i wiped it up quickly but it may have possibly damaged them? I will take out coil pack 3 and 4 and put it in 1 and 2 and see if the first 2 cylinders fire. I will keep everyone updated!

[SilvStylin45s]

Okay well i had a few non-car related things to take care of so that put a hold on things for a few days. I looked at it for a little bit tonight and here are my findings. I went out and bought brand new iridium plugs and gapped them to .028. and put them in. Also i numbered my coil packs 1-4 and put them in as follows, 4321 instead of 1234. Cylinders 1 and 2 fired but 3 and 4 did not. So that tells me that coilpacks 1 and 2 are possibly bad? I am trying to get a hold of some coilpacks as we speak. I tested the resistance between the + and - of all the packs and they all read at .9 to 1ohm. Anyone else have any idears at all? I figure i will be able to get this thing going real soon. Im more of less making this a diary for anyone that is having the same issues as I.

[SilvStylin45s]

Well i got all four new coil packs and guess what. It still doesn't run. Well it does but it idles rough and wants to die out. Sooo i guess it is the timing. But like everyother thing in order to fix it the motor must run. I reset the timing before when i thought that was the problem. But i probly done that wrong. So what now...i will search later but im too tired and emo to do it now. Im just damn sick of this thing. Apparently no-one has had a similiar problem or a solution?...I will try to figure out how to read the timing on this coil system but damn this is getting old.

[SilvStylin45s]

Guess what kids, no spark?....WTF. Can anyone tell me what the E stands for on the coilpack? Its the wire on the left from the front of the engine bay. When i crank the car the + reads 5V and when the key is on it reads 12V. Im trying to check spark with the following procedure. Take out fuel pump fuse, turn over until it stops trying to catch, pull coil pack and plug, insert plug into coilpack, turn car over and see if the plug sparks, ground it on exhaust manifold, still no spark. I just dont get it....

[5upra]

Check for ignition from ECU...check for voltage and short to ground. its most likely from the wire tuck, usely not good on a factory harness.

[SilvStylin45s]

I think it is a wiring issue. Pin 5 on my ecu plug is accting weird. It is not listed on the pinout diagram i am using. If i wiggle it it switch from power to ground and clicks what sounds like a relay. Since i am amlways the only person working on my car its hard to diagnose where it is coming from. Now for a few other wiring questions. If something is a ground on the pinout diagram can i simply ground out that item or not?....Im thinking of rewiring the entire harness over again if i cant figure this out. Any help is appreciated. I might start offering some money to anyone that can help solve this for me. Its so frustrating, it looks like i might miss my second event of the year cause of this stupidness. Someone out there must be able to help?

[SilvStylin45s]

well i fiddled with that wire for a bit until it read power, it started but when i unplug cylinders 1 and 4 there is no change in idle. When i unplug the CAS...it just dies. Also is it weird that the turbo manifold gets how in less than 30 seconds?...Im so confused.

Can someone please tell me what the E wire is for on the coil packs or does nobody know?

[SilvStylin45s]

well...the the E wire apprently goes to ground cause thats where the continuity is. I have continuity from the ignitor to the coil pack harness. I might just have to cowboy up and re-wire the whole damn thing and start over. Or just suck it up and get a new harness?

[HellonFire]

I would see if you can borrow a stock harness. I will bet your just wired something wrong. But I don't see how you can say that you switch the coil packs from 1234 (with 1&2 not firing) to 4321 (with 2&1 not firing), and then replacing all of the leads to no spark? It seems that if you can get spark from all 4 plugs, that you just have faulty coil packs.

Tyler

[SilvStylin45s]

Well here is what i have found. I went threw and re-connected every connector. I troubleshooted everything per FSM for code 21. I swapped out the under the hood relays. Disconnected my ECU....Re-connected it and voila. She fired right up. The only issue i am having right now is it still throwing code 34. I check on the FSM right now as to what to do. The car is running real rich (like everyone elses). I think it needs a good tune. I will do some more searching to find the solution to code 34 and get back to you guys.

[aa87]

Change the actual spark plugs?

Edit - Reading > me