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View Full Version : HELP...Clutch Problems SR20


orange13donkey
05-02-2007, 06:43 PM
SR20det in a 91 240sx

The only thing I know about a transmission and clutch is how to bleed it. Other than that, I am completely ignorant on the subject.

For some reason, sometimes when I start my car and push the clutch in, it doesn't disengage. It wont let me put it into gear. When it starts up and lets me put it into gear(kinda forced) and I am holding the clutch in, the car tries to move. I will have the clutch all the way to the floor and the car will be in first gear or reverse and it will be spuddering and trying to move in the direction of the gear. When I drive it, it is difficult to get it into the next gear when shifting. When I downshift, it will make a squeeking noise for a second while letting the clutch out. Someone told me that it might be air in my clutch line. I spent over an hour today bleeding it and it is exactly the same as before.

The clutch I have in it is an OS Giken, Dual Disk, unsprung

orange13donkey
05-03-2007, 09:47 AM
any ideas....anyone?

nissandr1ft
05-03-2007, 10:02 AM
Take the dampner off,bleed the clutch, and adjust the pedal if needed.

Big Bronze Rim
05-03-2007, 10:52 AM
Take the dampner off,bleed the clutch, and adjust the pedal if needed.
Agreed, your clutch needs to be bled and adjusted. Take out the damper loop, and try to rebleed the system. It makes the system as PITA to bleed and IMO, you get better clutch feel.

smurfgcr
05-03-2007, 10:58 AM
if you take of the dampning box, make sure that you dont kink the hardline when you bend it back to reach the slave line otherwise your screwed. always try the cheapest fixes first, then move on to bigger and better things

ManoNegra
05-03-2007, 12:38 PM
Make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking either. Seen it happen a few times - leaks from the back into the cabin underneath the carpet and not visible from the engine bay.
If it needs replacing get OEM Nissan. SPL ss clutch line is also a good idea.

orange13donkey
05-03-2007, 02:55 PM
The dampener loop had already been removed and both the master and slave cylinders are only a month old. I will try to bleed it some more and adjust the pedal. When the clutch is being pushed in, the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch lever a good distance. Is there anything internally on the transmission that would do this. My car isnt moving at all right now. I havent been able to get the clutch to disengage all day.

orange13donkey
05-03-2007, 03:56 PM
well....nothing at all is working. I am going with the idea that my clutch is broken. I push the clutch pedal in, and nothing happens. The slave pushes the clutch lever all the way but it doesnt disengage. DOES THIS SOUND LIKE A BROKEN CLUTCH? and what is the recommended clutch to use for this transmission? I am not planning on racing it. I just need a reliable car. I will not be going over 300hp either.

DJ_Sunrise
05-03-2007, 06:34 PM
clutches dont really break.. well.. they do.. but.. u need an as load of power to just "break" a clutch, or a spring could pop out... they usually just wear out.it could be a number of things.. throw out bearing, clutch fork being bent, lack of lubrication, throw out bearing sleeve.. u should have about an inch of dead pedal. where the clutch sits all the way up.. when u push it, there should be no "resistance" for an inch of travel or so.. anything more, u need adjustment. go from there.. worst case scenario you're going to need to take out the trans and inspect the parts

-Bart

EDIT: Buy an Exedy Stage Two. rated for 400hp, seen them in 350whp sr's for years without problems. Comes with the throw out bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool. if you want to spend 60ish dollars just to be on the safe side, and to possibly save time, go to the dealership and order a clutch fork and throw out bearing sleeve. new never hurt anyone. note.. the throwout bearing needs to be pressed into the sleeve.

Hope any of this helps.

Big Bronze Rim
05-03-2007, 09:52 PM
Well, another thing that could have happened is that the clutch release arm pivot ball broke and now the release arm has nothing to fulcrum against. The stock part is very brittle and its fairly common that it breaks. Thats one of the reasons Nismo sells an upgraded pivot. Sucks if thats the issue because you have to pull the trans to replace it.