Audio Upgrade trunk layout for s14

[TonkaSat]

Hey guys I have 2 600watt amps and a 12" sub going into my car in a few weeks.
As much as I want to dedicate my whole trunk for all my audio set up, I can't. I don't want to compromise my trunk space and I've been searching online for some pictures and ideas on it. But all I've seen were the Bryan Leitch's nismo s14. Which the amps I'm pretty sure are hooked up where the spare is supposed to be.

Basically I want to keep my trunk space, and my spare... but make it look nice and clean and everything bolted down.:eek3d:

Oh and another question:
WOuld having two amps running drain my battery? My friend mentioned something about that. I mean most likely I would just have to wait until I get everything in and check it out, see what it does. But really if anything happens I'll probably just have to check the alternator right?

[bigOdom1]

i would suggest a capacitor at least if running two amps lights are gonna still dim though when the bass hits

[TonkaSat]

i would suggest a capacitor at least if running two amps lights are gonna still dim though when the bass hits


man that sucks :-/
I wonder if it's possible to link it up with a separate battery for the amps?
any ideas?

[bigOdom1]

you might can take your alternator to a rebuild shop and have them rebuild and wind(sp) the alternator a little tighter

[MELLO*SOS]

man that sucks :-/
I wonder if it's possible to link it up with a separate battery for the amps?
any ideas?

What sucks about it? Look the stock alternator is an ~85a unit, 85a*13v=1105 watts at peak output (which isn't until ~4k rpm iirc). You wanna run two 600watt amps, which will supposedly draw up to 1200w or ~90a. Obviously that little 85a alternator isn't going to have enough current to supply your amps and deck -- let alone your ignition, headlights, taillights/turn signals, fuel pump, radiator fans, AC/Heater blower fan, etc.

Adding a capacitor and/or another battery doesn't really "solve" the problem of dimming lights, but it can help a little... You're still going to draw more current out of your charging system than what you're putting into it unless you upgrade your alternator. Research retrofitting a Quest 110a alternator to your KA (or having yours rebuilt/upgraded if possible), then run two batteries - one for the engine & chassis electrical (lights, etc) and the other battery exclusively for your amps/audio. The batteries are separated using a "battery isolator" which prevents you from killing the starting battery with the amps when the car is off (but still allows charging when it's on)

Use a redtop optima for your starting battery and a yellow top for your second battery (amps and deck). The redtop is great for starting but it doesn't enjoy a long continuous drain. The Yellowtop has the opposite property, it doesn't have as much cranking amps but it will give you the power you need for sustained periods (which is why you'll see trunks stuffed with yellow tops for hydraulics or audio systems). You don't usually see it but many of these rides use a 140a or 180a alternator also.

Read a little here on the Optima battery diffs:
http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/optima-bluetop-redtop-yellowtop-battery.asp

Also you wanted to see some S14 setups... Scott Buwalda has built some badass S14s, just search his name and you'll see.. Here's his current S15-nosed s14 with rb26: http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/260SX.htm

Side note: one 12" with 500 to 800w will sound great with some 6.5 components and tweeters up front. Plus it'll have minimal impact on your electrical system... But to each his own! GL

[TonkaSat]

What sucks about it? Look the stock alternator is an ~85a unit, 85a*13v=1105 watts at peak output (which isn't until ~4k rpm iirc). You wanna run two 600watt amps, which will supposedly draw up to 1200w or ~90a. Obviously that little 85a alternator isn't going to have enough current to supply your amps and deck -- let alone your ignition, headlights, taillights/turn signals, fuel pump, radiator fans, AC/Heater blower fan, etc.

Adding a capacitor and/or another battery doesn't really "solve" the problem of dimming lights, but it can help a little... You're still going to draw more current out of your charging system than what you're putting into it unless you upgrade your alternator. Research retrofitting a Quest 110a alternator to your KA (or having yours rebuilt/upgraded if possible), then run two batteries - one for the engine & chassis electrical (lights, etc) and the other battery exclusively for your amps/audio. The batteries are separated using a "battery isolator" which prevents you from killing the starting battery with the amps when the car is off (but still allows charging when it's on)

Use a redtop optima for your starting battery and a yellow top for your second battery (amps and deck). The redtop is great for starting but it doesn't enjoy a long continuous drain. The Yellowtop has the opposite property, it doesn't have as much cranking amps but it will give you the power you need for sustained periods (which is why you'll see trunks stuffed with yellow tops for hydraulics or audio systems). You don't usually see it but many of these rides use a 140a or 180a alternator also.

Read a little here on the Optima battery diffs:
http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/optima-bluetop-redtop-yellowtop-battery.asp

Also you wanted to see some S14 setups... Scott Buwalda has built some badass S14s, just search his name and you'll see.. Here's his current S15-nosed s14 with rb26: http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/260SX.htm

Side note: one 12" with 500 to 800w will sound great with some 6.5 components and tweeters up front. Plus it'll have minimal impact on your electrical system... But to each his own! GL


I have 6" speakers running with stock amps right now...
But figured why not just get another amp for the speakers (they're obviously not stock). and since I bought the 12" sub I'm adding the 600watt amp as well.
I figured I would probably have upgrade the alternator and run another battery for the two amps. Thanks for the reply.

[GSXRJJordan]

I would run the extra yellow top in the back, or a different deep cycle battery (optimas have a tendency to fail), but replacing your alternator is overkill with your power draw. Those amps will barely ever draw 600W a piece.

As far as cool ways to mount everything, build a box, but the sub in the middle, and make some metal brackets so the amps appear to be floating between the sub box and the sides or the trunk - looks great every time. Remember that leaving a little room behind your box and to the sides will make your bass sound a TON better - don't make a box that fits flush between the strut towers and the rear deck, basically.

Also, the first reflection is most important, so the more distance between the sub and the trunk rear the better your bass will sound. And dynamat your trunk lid, please.

I used to compete in SQ (not with my S13), so I'm a little OCD when it comes to subs.

[C. Senor]

i would say that you can use your stock alternator by just using a battery isolator to run the second dry cell battery, and hook up a bigger capacitor. and you should be perfectly fine. i personally had a pretty big system. i would say around 7500 watts rms...and running a 2 farad capacitor with a 2nd battery i never ran into problems. but i dont know how you're going to put a system in your trunk and still be able to use it normally. i was running just a 10 and a small amp recently and i really didnt have a trunk.

[98koukile]

My single solobaric is being put into the rear quarter panel facing sideways, angled upwards and slightly forward. Will this produce good sound if built correctly?

[JDMClifford]

Bull shit i have 2 1000w amps and 2 850w amps in my s13 with the stock sr alternator and i can bump it as loud as i want for daysssss and my lights wwill never dim when im at a stop light. i take that back i just turned my lights on and bumped it with my car off and they didnt dim.

[CKAMC]

any comments on if one was to use little odyssey batteries? From what I read it would make sense to run three.

Looks like I need to chuck this dual sub system for a single... unless.....

<-- also wants to save space for extra wheels

[laxplaya8513]

is that power rating RMS or peak power? generally a system like that would not need anything, just don't play it with the car off. I don't recommend using capacitors as there ARE many different arguments for them as being parasitic or not. The odd thing is during competitions they allow you a certain amount of capacitors.

People misunderstand capacitors, if you have a perfectly stable electrical system you do NOT need a capacitor.. if you have slight fluctuations in the electrical current, sure, add a cap ,they're called stiffening capacitors basically because that's what they do, they smooth out the electrical flow. I would NOT recommend a cap if your lights are already dimming alot though, primarily because the capacitor will slowly in turn kill your alternator.

Lets say you have a 12oz cup of water and a 12oz glass of ionno, OJ. Your amp requires 10oz's to hit those deep bass notes, but then you turn on your lights and your AC, lets say they need 4oz's of fluid of some sort. Now your OJ is giving out only 8ozs, but your amp is pulling 10ozs... where's it get it from? the capacitor... now lets remove 2 from the 12oz... but you still have your AC and lights on, the capacitor keeps draining since it's in line, your alternator(the OJ) is trying harder to RECHARGE the capacitor as WELL as provide enough current to power your amp as well... I just say no to capacitors until you upgrade your electrical system enough to handle it.

Upgrade your Big 3, reground your engine bay, replace the battery... that should do it, if there's still dimming, but SLIGHTLY, i have no issues with adding a cap. Now if there is big dips and it's continuous, upgrade your alternator.

Oh, by the way. Don't bump your system with the car off, your battery will drain fairly quickly unless it's a deep cycle


*Edit*
Oh, and a shameless plug :p anyone wanna buy any 10" Kicker L7's, 10" Alpine Type R's, 12" MTX Thunder6000s, or an Audiobahn 12" Immortal sub? PM me or EMail me :p hehe, i have 4 L7's, 3 Type Rs, 2 Thunders, and 1 Immortal... all for really cheap :p

[TonkaSat]

I've resulted with!!!

getting an alternator pretty much custom to what I need for the car from my friend who's got a guy that rebuilds them. Which is a plus. So I'm doing an upgrade on the alternator and setting up an extra battery for the amps and sub. Not puttin a capacitor in for the batt.

Thanks for the replies.

[97 S14]

I'm in the same situation now, trying to figure out my trunk setup. I want to use the new Alpine digital amps because you can mount them on top of each other which is really nice.

[corey240]

you could put the subs in the rear quarter panels in the holes behind the rear seat sind plastic. im gona do this with a 10" because thats what fits but you can make a 12 fit with a litle cutting. btw that s14 was in super street and its retarded.:bigok: