View Full Version : Manual Boost Controler Setup And Vac Line Questions
NDRTSR20240
04-28-2007, 02:45 PM
Whats up. Im new to the nissan world and espically boosted cars. I just picked up a 90 240sx with a RT SR20DET. I got to lookin around the engine pay and saw an open ended breather line spliced between the wastegateline and the T that splits into 2 lines that go to the upperintercooler pipe and the intake. I took that breather line out and spliced the 2 lines togeather and i was runnin 7psi or so. before i took that line out i was runnin 10 or 11 psi. im just wonderin where the vac lines go and do and i ws wonderin where the best place to put in a manual boostcontroler would be? Also with this previously states setup i would knotice a slight spike of boost after 5500rpm or so and sometimes it would act like fuel cut around 6 or 6500 rpm but my car does have an up graded fuel pump so im not quite shure what the problem is... Thanks for the help guys... and sorry is my grammar and puncuation blows.....
ThatGuy
04-28-2007, 02:48 PM
Wow, have you ever heard of punctuation? How about Paragraph structure? Capitalization?
Please edit your post, and write in a more easily understandable format.
Yoshi
04-28-2007, 02:55 PM
Wow, that was hard to decipher.... and I'm still confused.
How was the guy you got it from running 10-11psi?
I'm assuming from your MBC question that there isn't one in there? That part was unclear.
Fuel cut? is there an adjustable FPR in there? Does it feel like maybe it's leaning out, or it it sudden like bouncing off the rev limiter?
Then you removed a vaccum line from... the hotpipe? what???
W/o a boost controller or other odd mods, you SHOULD be at 7psi...
Given that your post was exceptionally hard to read, a picture would be worth a thousand words w/o punctuation :D
Stay in school! :P
NDRTSR20240
04-28-2007, 02:58 PM
yea i tryed 2 edit it a little bit sorry guys.... hopefully it is a little better to understand.....
riander4
04-28-2007, 03:23 PM
No i still dont get it, i dont get your last post either
zoototheyork
04-28-2007, 03:31 PM
you need to learn common sense before working on cars
jkgaddis
04-28-2007, 04:18 PM
1.) Download The Service Manual
2.) Route Things The Way Nissan Intended
3.) Read Up On How A Boost Controller Works (ill Give You A Hint: Wastegate Vacuum Signal)
4.) Search The Forums And The Service Manual For Everything. You Really Shouldnt Need To Ask A Question Ever Unless Somthing Really F-ed Up Happens.
ThatGuy
04-28-2007, 04:22 PM
^You forgot one thing.
5.) Don't have the CAPS LOCK on when you're trying to type on Zilvia.net.
jkgaddis
04-28-2007, 05:16 PM
lol, sorry man. hit it and never noticed.
Mlogue84
04-28-2007, 05:18 PM
Check every vaccum line and every hose clamp associated with the intercooler and its piping... make sure they are tight. Also, that line out you spoke of... you should use a t adapter and use the same size vac line to go to the boost controller... but in my opinion you should go with an electronic one so you can adjust it from inside the car.
The line that goes from the IC piping connecting to the wastegate actuator tells the WGA to open and create a leak and tells the turbo how fast to spool. The vaccum pressure itself comes from the draw of air from the intercooler to the intake manifold. a little lesson in turbo mechanics...
ThatGuy
04-28-2007, 05:19 PM
No worries.
NDRTSR20240
04-28-2007, 05:38 PM
well thanks for the advice Mlogue84 cuz evidently everyone else likes 2 rip on grammar and the people who cant find shiza on the net aka me... i have been lookin on the net for like 2 days now and i found this forum sorry im trying to get some info.....
ThatGuy
04-28-2007, 05:42 PM
Well its kinda hard to tell what it is you want when you type everything as one big sentance with no breaks anywhere in it while at the same time using numbers and slang in place of words it is rather annoying to spend the time trying to decipher what you are trying to ask instead of just answering your question This is infact the internet so you need to make sure people can understand what you are trying to convey to them if you expect to get any help.
Once you get finished trying to figure out what I just wrote, and stop whining, maybe you'll get some help from Zilvia.net.
In the mean time, have a pleasant day.
p.s. I know you said you've been looking for at least 2 days for an answer, but did you use all your resources? http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Manual+Boost+Controller+SR20DET&btnG=Google+Search
jkgaddis
04-28-2007, 05:57 PM
Or, evidently, you dont know how to search or use the tools at hand. dont be so arrogant. i found my fsm on freshalloy its for the s14 but for 99% of the shit it works. also, as helpful as the metioned advice is, im going to have to disagree. DO NOT use any tee's on your bov or waste gate.
run one line (the fat one) from the throttle body to the bov. no tee's.
run the skinny line form the top of the throttle body to your fpr. this is the one you tee of of if you wanna run a boost gauge (good idea).
cap off the one underneath the throttle body unless you are using the evap canister.
for the wastegate, take your hot pipe to a shop or something and have a nipple welded on for a vaccuum line. do this an inch or 2 after the turbo outlet. then run your wastegate line directly from the new nipple to the wastegate. this line should be nice and short. reason: i dont know why it needs to be so close to the turbo, i listened to jeff from heavy throttle (he knows way more than me so i listen to him). works like a charm. as far as not tee'ing anything off of it. i know one reason at least. that is more opportunity for a leak. an a leak= higher boost. (woah, things are starting to come together). except this would be an uncontrolled leak which could lead to you blowing your engine.
furthermore, you should not tee your wastegate line to your controller, it should go new nipple>manual boost controller>wastegate.
so i dont know if you've put 2 and 2 together yet but all the controller does is create a controlled leak. also, why in hell would you advise this guy to install an electronic controller? you dont need to change you boost "on the fly" unless you can change your maps to suit it.
in conclusion, learn to search better. maybe even take an internet familiarity course. after that go hook up your shit right and then have fun.
also, if you would like to dispute how i said to hook it up dont take my word for it. call heavy throttle and ask, or enjuku, or xat. they all told me the same thing i told you. good luck
240esux
04-28-2007, 06:23 PM
wow, finally a guy that aint talking shit and who is actually giving good info. The guy is asking for help, not to get shit talked to him!!! good luck on your build!
NDRTSR20240
04-28-2007, 06:52 PM
ok so i cant type we have gone over this. and i would like 2 thank jkgaddis for the help im a complete retard when it comes to boost and boost mechanics. and as for the net yea that isnt 2 strong either but thanks guys....
NDRTSR20240
04-28-2007, 07:00 PM
ok so after i posted this i went out and did some snoopin. and there are 2 lines off of the intake that are t'ed togeather and ran across the motor and hooked up to my boost gauge... the bov is hooked into the pipe that runs across the motor from the intercooler to the intake. so i should take the pipe off the turbo and put a nipple on it close to the turbo and put my wastegate actuator line right next to it.
steve shadows
04-28-2007, 07:11 PM
heres some good ones for people with externals.
same thing applys in theory to internal gate, the BC should intercept the line from the intake manifold or compressor housing vaccum source, and then continue to the WG nipple to supply boost/vac to diaphram actuator.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/RPSport/mail.jpg
thanks to matt at haltech for this one
steve
steve shadows
04-28-2007, 07:13 PM
Whats up. Im new to the nissan world and espically boosted cars. I just picked up a 90 240sx with a RT SR20DET. I got to lookin around the engine pay and saw an open ended breather line spliced between the wastegateline and the T that splits into 2 lines that go to the upperintercooler pipe and the intake. I took that breather line out and spliced the 2 lines togeather and i was runnin 7psi or so. before i took that line out i was runnin 10 or 11 psi. im just wonderin where the vac lines go and do and i ws wonderin where the best place to put in a manual boostcontroler would be? Also with this previously states setup i would knotice a slight spike of boost after 5500rpm or so and sometimes it would act like fuel cut around 6 or 6500 rpm but my car does have an up graded fuel pump so im not quite shure what the problem is... Thanks for the help guys... and sorry is my grammar and puncuation blows.....
In regards to your boost spike and pretty much everyone else on this board who is using internal, the best investment is an HKS actuator or one with an adjustable threaded arm so you can pre-load/set the boost at say 12psi and then use a ELECTRONIC controlller to boost above that mark so the solenoid doesnt have to work as hard.
In my experience over the past 6 years with turbos, the intenal gates always spike with Manual BC's. Get an electronic one or go external and the manual should work dead on when its dialed into the sweet spot.
cheers
jkgaddis
04-28-2007, 07:27 PM
learn something new everyday, thanks steve. didnt know about the boost spike thing with manuals and internals. i have one im just hesitant to put it on without remapping. seems not so worth the risk.
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