SR - stalling *searched*

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My SR has been running like crap. There are 2 problems that I know about.

My setup:
Blacktop SR, FMIC, Stock T25, Turbo XS BOV (Recirculated), walbro fuel pump, koyo rad, ect...

1. When slowing down, then drop into neutral to stop the car stalls sometimes.
I've searched, I just wanted to make sure I checked everything that could cause this.
- Tighten the bolt on the BOV
- Check FMIC piping, clamps, and couplers
- Check the sensor under the intake manifold and on the throttle
- PCV valve?
- Fuel filter
Am I missing anything?

2. The new problem I just noticed. The car bogs and is running rich. If I accelerate slow there doesnt seem to be a problem, but if I punch it or hit boost, the motor revs like normal and sounds normal but theres no power. I'm thinking that the piping after the bov has a leak since the bov goes off like normal after letting off the throttle.

There is also oil getting spit out of the BOV (btw it is recirculated), and there is a little drip of oil coming out of the coupler on the turbo outlet.

Any ideas? Possibilities? I had a couple friends that own a shop do the swap for me since I have no garage, but I've just been having problems with it since... I just want to get my car running the way it should.

Any help would be appreciated.

[ladiesman8527]

for the bogging, it sounds like you have a bad vac or boost leak. as for the oil in the intercooler piping, do u have any kinda oil catch can or atleast the factory can?

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yea its the factory can, I didn't get around to putting in an aftermarket one yet...

[Z U L8R]

more than likely your turbo's taking a dump, as far as the car dying, you want to make your blow off valve softer, not harder to resolve that issue.

try unbolting the wastegate actuator from the side of the turbo and see if the waste gate flap is closed all the way when the actuator's in the correct position bolted up, if your actuator arm is not adjustable and you can't see any way to shim the actuator with washers in order to put more tension on the rod to shut the wastegate all the way then get an adjustable actuator, or cut and weld it shorter. that is assuming the flap doesn't get closed all the way. and don't waste the money on an actuator if you're gonna have to buy a turbo.

just to get it out of the way, DO A COMPRESSION TEST. all cylinders should be roughly 145psi or more. once you know your compression is good, warm the car up to operating temerature, then turn it off, disconnect the battery negative and hold the brake pedal for 30 seconds to clear out the ecu's memory. then unplug the throttle position sensor and start the car. rev the car to 2000 rpm and hold it for 30 seconds. check the base timing with a timing light, you want the second to last notch on the far right of the pulley to line up with the timing needle indicator, that's 15 degrees btdc and that's where your timing should be at. if the timing's off, loosen the two 12mm nuts that hold the cam angle sensor in place and turn the cas until it's dead on the money.

please do those quick things and respond with the results. thanks & g/l =]

[sr20boostn20]

the oil coming out of the bov and the coupler, is probably coming from the turbo,and chances are that your turbos blown, that could also attribute to the loss of power.

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Z U L8r - Thanks for the info, I don't have time to work on the car tonight but I will go through those checks and the other ones I posted and post up my results.

About the BOV though, if it goes off at very low rpm's doesn't that mean its set too loose? It goes off at about 1400rpm...

I'm pretty sure the Turbo is not blown, I was driving it for about a week with no problems. It spooled up fast, and held boost with no problem. I have to check on the piping and see if a coupler loose, but thats what i'm thinking the instant power loss is from. I'll know more as soon as I can get in there and check it out.

[Z U L8R]

you said your bov is recirculated yet wants to die after you blow off and go into neutral, that's why i said to make it softer. if it was atmospheric then you'd go harder.

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It doesn't die just after the bov hit's and i go into neutral, I could be just slowing down and not hit the bov... rpm's drop down to 100-200 everytime, but only stalls once in a while.

[xplicit240]

yeh same thing happens to mine. alot of suggestions ive heard was its a vacuum leak. id check the valve under the manifold. but im too lazy =\