Hey everyone! 350-375hp SR hopeful right here :)

[Tom Ngan]

Hey guys,

I've been lurking around these forums and gathering alot of information on my SR20 build. I've finally decided that I want to put down about 350rwhp.

So I just wanted to make sure I have my shopping list right, and if theres anything missing from it please feel free to add :) Thanks.

Things I have already:
-Greddy 1.6mm headgasket
-ARP head studs
-Megasquirt standalone

Things I need to get: (Shopping list)
-Cams ----> ( I'm not sure which ones or lift, but thinking HKS 264 step 1)
-Cam gears ????
-Retainers, valve springs ????
-GT2871R .64
-740cc+ injectors
-Clutch ----> (Not sure what kind of clutch either... )


Is there anything I'm missing? Is there anything that you guys would recommend that would work well together?

What is the internal wastegate on the 71R rated at? A boost controller would be needed I'm assuming?

Stock bottom end would hold up fine? I was thinking of building the bottom end as well, but the budget can only allow so much.

Any advice would be awesome! Thanks guys! Sorry for all the newbie questions :)

[johngriff]

Peak performance springs. No need for retainers.

RPS turbo clutch.
264 step 2's
no need for cam gears. 740cc's probably over kill, buy new if you want a good idle.
Get Apexi or Power Enterprises headgasket

I recomend against the megasquirt, you should go enthalpy or better stand alone, but what do i know.

Have FUN! (the most important part)

[street240]

get the s3 cams

[eastcoastS14]

lol buy my motor 350whp....just need a new block and oil pan intercooler and radiator. my motor made 350whp @ 17psi no cams stock internals....pretty simple set up too

[Tom Ngan]

Cool thanks for the tips.

Any pointers on doing the head work? I plan to do the head work by myself with a friend.

What about machining?

Is there anything specifically wrong w/ megasquirt or Greddy HG ?

[FusionR240sx]

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=213470


end thread :P

[ronmcdon]

seems obvious, but you didn't mention upgrading your turbo manifold. I would opt for at least a tomei bottom mount if i were you. personally i'd opt for a t3 topmount, incase you want to go w/ a larger turbo in the future, although a bottom mount is really more than sufficient for 350whp.

with the clutch, if you're a cheapskate go with the act 6-puck. it holds somewhere around 400lbs of torque iirc, which should be more than suffient, and it costs around $300. I have this, and while it serves its purpose, it is a complete pita to dd with this clutch.

[mrmephistopheles]

Hey, I'm a Presidential hopeful...
Wish me luck!









:keke:

[DJ_Sunrise]

new brakes to slow you down.. pads, rotors.. make sure your struts, or coilovers i should hope.. are in good condition. replace --> o2 sensor, engine and tranny mounts, h2o sensor, 4 ply silicone couplings with GOOD TBOLT CLAMPS NOT EBAY, power fc???, tune, subframe spacers, maybe 5 quart oil pan from greddy?? this is the reason people like my car, its well rounded.. you need to make sure everything can handle everything.. play it safe. everything but the spacers and oil pan is a MUST. i just spent several k on parts for my car, the only thing that will make more power.. but not really.. is the mbc and hks wastegate. :wtf: make sure all necassary oem shit can handle things. oh yea. get tomei expreme manifold, youll be able to run the .86 ar with equivalent lag to silk road with .64

EDIT:new OEM emphasis on OEM, slave cylinder, ss lave line would help, nismo release bearing, OEM thrust bearing, nismo clutch fork pivot... totally forgot about that clutch you're replacing. upgrading a car, not cheap. upgrading a car right, definetly not cheap.

-Bart

[azndoc]

How about FMIC kit. (Greddy, HKS, Blitz, and if your really baller ARC)

Fuel pump, FPR, Intake Manifold, bigger brakes, and the list goes on and on.

I recommend Tomei for your camshafts, cam gears, and whatever else they have because Tomei is for the winner. GL

[Tom Ngan]

Oh sorry forgot to list alot of the obvious things.

I have also

Walbaro fuel pump
Tubular Ebay manifold
3" Catback
3" Downpipe
Greddy divorce elbow
Nismo FPR
300ZX Brakes w/ hawk pads
Zeal Coilovers
Subframe bushings
RUCA/tie rods
Greddy Pulley set
Greddy oil pan

By no means am I looking to cheap out, just wanting to find some information on brands, and some opinions on things that work and things that suck/crap out.


Some obvious things I left out of the shopping list:

-New mount/tranny mounts (probably going Nismo)
-FMIC kit (not sure, probably Greddy)
-BOV

I've heard mixed reaction on BOV, some say the HKS SSQV is bulshit cause it has plastic internals and leak after use, while Apexi, Blitz and ARC are much better. Others swear by the HKS. Any insight guys? Thanks for the replies thus far!

[codyace]

Comments on parts you have:

-Make sure you have a HP Walbro 255, not the regular

-Be prepared for a crapshoow with the Tubular Ebay manifold...it may work, it may not

-Ditch the hawk pads and get some Carbotech Panther Pluses (AX6 now)

Comments on parts you are getting

Nismo mounts will be just fine for you. I love mine.

Be sure when getting the FMIC, if you're only looking for 350-370 hp, check out the new Greddy M Spec one rated for that power.

I've only really dealt with the old Greddy Type S Bov's, and have had no problems with them (once you remove the one spring, and teflon tape all fittings). The SSQ's work well too, and now have the recirc bung you need as well.

[steve shadows]

Peak performance springs. No need for retainers.

RPS turbo clutch.
264 step 2's
no need for cam gears. 740cc's probably over kill, buy new if you want a good idle.
Get Apexi or Power Enterprises headgasket

I recomend against the megasquirt, you should go enthalpy or better stand alone, but what do i know.

Have FUN! (the most important part)


...well yeah don't you use a freakin e-manage?


uh


the Brian Crower springs and retainers work great. 8k rpms, 18-20 psi of boost here and there, pump gas, all kinds of abuse so far.

Peak Performance are good and as john said you dont NEED retainers, + no-NEED to re-shim if you keep the stock ones, assuming you do not have the valve-head remachines (as in valve-job).

264 step1's would suffice no problem, and in actuality 256, 264 staggared might work better depending on turbo to give you some overlap.

If you want to discuss specific options just shoot me a PM

good luck either way.

[StopSnitchin]

fuel pressure regulator and wideband o2. Get a standalone, dont mess with that piggy back bs. good luck

[staygold24]

jwt s3 cams.
dont know what clutch.
stock manifold
greddy intake manifold
740cc injectors
enthalpy ecu
z32 maf

search for angel on here.

he has hit 377 whp with that setup and a slipping clutch and managed to run 11.5 in the quarter mile when its set up for response and midrange. thats the setup im running in the future and looks strong.

s3 cams go VERY well with the .64 housing

[street240]

You can use what has come to be known as the "thecodyace" nuff said

[crazyikimasho]

as for intake manifold, I dont see the need for an aftermarket unless you're running a ton of boost and a large turbo, but thats just me.

[codyace]

he has hit 377 whp with that setup and a slipping clutch and managed to run 11.5 in the quarter mile when its set up for response and midrange. thats the setup im running in the future and looks strong.

s3 cams go VERY well with the .64 housing

It's the only way to fly. I've said it before, and will say it again, anybody can make big power uptop with turbo's and boost pressure, but being able to find the right parts that will help you create a torque surge BEFORE 4k and hold it for 3500-4000 rpm is what's key. I'd rather have a car that makes 350 hp/350 trq than a 400 hp/300 trq car anyday.

You can use what has come to be known as the "thecodyace" nuff said

I wish my setup got more recognition...there would be a lot more happy SR20 owners.

Again, my setup is oriented around response and HPDE/track driving. I can't dragrace, so any decent times I potentially make are simple fruits from another tree sort to speak. In all actuality, most road race oriented cars outperform drag oriented cars on drag strips anyway lol. Maybe not in trap speeds, but certainly in ET's.

The setup I have is mainly nice when you exit a corner at a low RPM (like 3k/4k) and need power THEN and not at 5k RPM. The only way to hold off Z06's (or other big torque cars) or better handling cars is to beat them out of the hole everytime. I'll never forget in on eof my first sessions last year I was slowly catching up to a 6.0 GTO (I was at 12/13 psi on track) who was decently far ahead. I noticed that my pesky little 2.0 would l iterally out accerlerate him at corner exit, and that is where I gained track. I eventually got by him in the same manner....being able to goose it early, and have power...not lag.

as for intake manifold, I dont see the need for an aftermarket unless you're running a ton of boost and a large turbo, but thats just me.

An intake manifold is the only way to sustain decent power uptop. Some argue it kills low end, but I'll continue to maintain the power lost is negligable with smaller frame turbos.

[Wei240]

dynos in itself is an interesting off topic, you can 'make' more from one than another, some are off like 10-15% from one to another
dynojets seem to be the choice if you like to see high numbers...

[codyace]

dynos in itself is an interesting off topic, you can 'make' more from one than another, some are off like 10-15% from one to another
dynojets seem to be the choice if you like to see high numbers...

Very true, and it's all about how the caluculate and measure power....to me as long as you stay consistant, and understand the conversion pecentage to get the other dyno's numbers, you should be ok. However, it seemingly has become that Dynojet is the forum or shop 'sort to speak' standard, and that is what most setups are based off of. It doesn't make it more or less right though.

[steve shadows]

on the turbo decision I would definitely suggest an external wastegate setup and the 3071 with the .63 ar turbine housing.

I was wondering to myself is a turbo shop could machine out a .48 AR housing for the 3071R, it would drop top end efficency but spool time would be greatly increaced if your using it for 2.0 application. Expect torque to drop off at around 6k rpms however.

also check out the .63 ar turbine, gt3071r with a divided manifold, and housing, there has been some good information coming out of the FA camp regarding this (helps spool and mid range on even larger turbos but up to 30 ft lbs of torque at 500 rpms earlier sometimes in RPMS).

[codyace]

I was wondering to myself is a turbo shop could machine out a .48 AR housing for the 3071R, it would drop top end efficency but spool time would be greatly increaced if your using it for 2.0 application. Expect torque to drop off at around 6k rpms however.

I wonder if ATP offers anything like that...it seems like anymore they offer any sort of oddball housing you'd ever need....their site is currently down though :(

[Angel]

Like they said, my old setup was what I took to be one of the most cost effective all round combos for the sr20.... that's why I did it :)

[staygold24]

Angel, I know you said that your clutch was slipping with the max rps clutch.

Did you have the organic or the puck? Which one do you recommend and Ive heard complaints about late engagement in the rps.

[steve shadows]

Like they said, my old setup was what I took to be one of the most cost effective all round combos for the sr20.... that's why I did it :)
Yeah you really can't beat it for cost effectiveness

[Angel]

My fault really on the clutch. I went with the full face organic thinking the car would'nt see much time at the strip.... it didn't see much track time but when it cut nothing but 1.6 '60 times right from the start, the clutch just couldn't hang. It would give a little at launch and then slip a tad on each shift. I would think that if I had gone with the puck I would have seen mid 1.5's and a few more mph, but who knows.... I wasn't after a drag car and was happy with mid 11's from a car with suspension tuning biased toward the interesting side of the spectrum not the straight line side :)

Same deal with my ls1 rx7, mid 400's to the tire, cage, coils, volks.... you know, all around fun car.


Angel, I know you said that your clutch was slipping with the max rps clutch.

Did you have the organic or the puck? Which one do you recommend and Ive heard complaints about late engagement in the rps.

[staygold24]

But if you were mainly wanting an all around car which one would you recommend? Did you experience slippage during road courses? I dont expect much time at the drag strip at all and definitely dont plan on doing it in slicks.

[Angel]

If that's the intended usage and you value the tractabilty then use the same full face disk that I did... it was my daily and that's part of why I picked it. Should'nt have issues as long as there aren't any hard launches on sticky tires, prolly last 20k or more depending on your driving style. I would add a lightweight flywheel for the ease of shifting, and rev matching.... I almost always use one in my cars as I value that response over the loss of inertia. I didn't have the money for it at the time. So stocker it was.

I really do love rps clutches, they have never let me down. As I mentioned above, this was my fault in that I chose the "wrong" clutch, but in the past it has almost always been the other way around, and the clutch would take more than it "should" have. At least that was the case when Rob Smith was the main man there, don't know if that's the case now.


But if you were mainly wanting an all around car which one would you recommend? Did you experience slippage during road courses? I dont expect much time at the drag strip at all and definitely dont plan on doing it in slicks.

[tastycakeman]

you should get a scooba snorkel, like on tanks and jeeps.