brakes

[Nismos14]

could the front brake rotors on a s-14 be put on the bacK?

[Kid Zelda]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Nismos14 on 10:39 am on Jan. 29, 2002
could the front brake rotors on a s-14 be put on the bacK?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
hahaha

Don't be cheap, buy rear ones !

[Nismos14]

but even the aftermarket ones would be thinner than the stock fronts

[HippoSleek]

Simply - the front rotors are larger than the rears. &nbsp;Why?

One word - balance!

Trust me, you do not want too much stopping power in the rear, unless you are going to be running a proportioning valve to keep them from locking before your fronts. &nbsp;

[Nismos14]

now how about if i upgrade the fronts with x-drilled and slotted rotors and some good pads and use the front rotors on the rear? would that work well? i think it would be kick ass

[HippoSleek]

Still won't work. &nbsp;1) front rotors will not fit with rear calipers!!! &nbsp;2) drilled and slotted rotors have less stopping power than blanks (think surface area) so that would decrease your front bias, 3) using good pads in the front and junk in the back (if you even COULD fit on the rotors) might restore bias, but would likely eliminate the advantage you originally sought to create.

Better way: &nbsp;get a good set of pads up front and a decent set for the rear (usually one step lower). &nbsp;This will preserve bias and improve your feel 100%. &nbsp;If you need more brakes, get a NA 300zx caliper/rotor/lines set for the fronts, run decent pads, and good ones in the rear. &nbsp;If you still need more brakes, you have a problem <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

[vancouvers14]

front rotors are about 20mm wide. &nbsp;rears are about 9mm, so no, it wont work

(Edited by vancouvers14 at 9<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>0 pm on Jan. 29, 2002)

[240meowth]

i see this argument between surface area of the rotor and slotted drilled... &nbsp;here's my thought, not to go against you guys, just the reason whey i would get dlotted n drilled.

drilled helps better cooling, ovbiously, it has to be casted or it crack and/or wrap
slotted helps stopping because it is an uneven surface, think this... is it easier to grab unto a smooth peice of metal, or a peice of metal w/ ridges on it? &nbsp;ovbiously the ridged one.

my 2 cents...

[SaintlyCharBoy]

right, drilling is for cooling, slotting, however increases friction in high performance applications by allowing the expansion and dissipation of gasses created under the extreme heat caused by the two braking surfaces...
the slots draw &quot;air&quot; (or whatever) away from the surfaces to relieve pressures that might hinder surface contact

blah blah... yeah

plus drilled rotors do a great job getting rid of brake fade, wich cuts back the stopping distance and increases the performance

[HippoSleek]

A short physics lesson (for non-engineers): &nbsp;less surface area = less friction = less stopping power. &nbsp;There is a reason that rotors don't have ridges... it's b/c they wouldn't work as well. &nbsp;Simple experiment about area (exagerated, admittedly) - open a walkman, PS1, etc. while the CD is still spinning and try to stop it with the edge of your finger. &nbsp;Now do the same with two whole fingers. &nbsp;Surface area stops - that's why larger diameter rotors are better.

As for cooling, you are unlikely to use this feature on a street car. &nbsp;If you race (track, not even autox), maybe you should think about it. &nbsp;Those who race with drills either buy cryo treated rotors (which can be drilled and resist cracking) or cast holey rotors. &nbsp;These still crack (too bad I lost the picture of the 959 w/ severe cracks). &nbsp;Slots also reduce area, but have the advantage of out gassing (which may be an issue if you do 200 mile + endurance races where one would use the types of pad compounds that generate gassing).

If you want slots and drills, great. &nbsp;They look really nice and will perform comparably to blanks. &nbsp;If, however, you want maximum performance, do what IT racers do and buy blanks.

BTW: unless they are glowing (literally) the rotor has NOTHING to do with fade! &nbsp;That is a pad and fluid issue.

[Nismos14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Nismos14 on 12:39 pm on Jan. 29, 2002
could the front brake rotors on a s-14 be put on the bacK?
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

ok back to the original question, anyone think this could work?

[vancouvers14]

NO. &nbsp;the thicknesses are way different.

[240 2NR]

I would start with just getting new pads and see if they are at the level you are looking for. &nbsp;I think they will make a much bigger difference and only cost you $30 to try. &nbsp;

I have the KVR pads front and rear. &nbsp;they do ok when cool, but get them warmed up and very stop is better than the last. &nbsp;Its pretty cool, er um hot. &nbsp;Well you get it.