clutch problem

[yokotas13]

Ok
so i have a problem

Basically, my master and slave cylinder arent doing anything

i cant pull fluid from the bottom with a speed bleeder, but none of the lines are clogged (ran air through everything)
and broke apart the master cylinder to check for bad seals etc etc
im ordering a rebuild kit anyways

Im using an r33 gt25t slave and master,
but i also tried a 260rs master as well.
i have elimnated the loop and its straight from the master to the slave.

any ideas?
pedal isnt kinked either.

[JDS Performance]

Not too sure but I will go through my process;

I use a steel braided line from master to slave

Use 2 people - 1 for bleeding - the other for pushing pedal

Use clear tube on slave bleeder / to check for bubbles and less mess

Fill master cylinder w/ fluid

Open up the slave bleeder - pump clutch pedal by hand about 7-8 pumps - hold clutch pedal to the floor - tighten slave bleeder - this is to get fluid in the line and to get pedal pressure up

Pump clutch pedal 5-6 times - hold to floor - open slave bleeder - tighten slave bleeder - check fluid in master cylinder - this is to get all bubbles out of the line

Do this until no bubbles are in the line

With the steel braided line from master to slave - it takes me 2-3 bleeds and its done - pedal pressure and feel is awsome!

[yokotas13]

yeah, problem is.....the fluid wont go through.....
but there are no obstructions......

i dont know where to get a steel braided line for my application around here....honestly

[g6civcx]

Email Harp at Taka Motorsports. Just measure the length and he'll fab it up for you.

Did you bench bleed the master?

[MrChow]

edit - Oopps

the better question is why are you using a r33 slave and master?? I'm just wondering.

[mandoz85]

Did you bench bleed the master?

I agree, it sounds like you did not bench bleed the master.

[yokotas13]

edit - Oopps

the better question is why are you using a r33 slave and master?? I'm just wondering.
becuase its a stagea

[taiyou]

How do you bench bleed the master? you mean open up the fitting a little on MC and push until bubbles are gone? I tried it and the pedal just went to the floor, so I thought it was just a waste of time. Also when you bleed, do you put the MC pushrod all the way out towards the front seat? Or just leave it in the middle like it should be? It felt like I was getting more air out of the MC when I adjusted toward my front seat, but at the same time I was getting so much air that I gave up for now.

and is it better to get the speed bleeders or the "brake/clutch bleeding kit" which is a long clear hose with 1 way air valve but that's on the hose? They sell for like $9-10 at autoparts store.

[Dream240]

Bench bleeding is done with the master cylinder out of the car. You set it up in a vice and hook up a clear hose to the output fitting and loop it into your reservoir. I used an old piece of metal brake line with the proper fitting to mate it to the MC. Then just attach the hose to it.

You then fill up the reservoir and proceed to move the pushrod in and watch the bubbles flow through the hose to the reservoir. reapeat until all the bubbles are gone. You are pumping the fluid through the MC and clearing out any air thats trapped in the MC itself. Once this done, the only area that could have air is the lines or the slave. But the slave is so small that the air should come out of it after just one round of bleeding.

OP, I'm curious if you've removed the clutch dampener section. Do you have the clutch line running straight through to the slave? If not what's in there? If you do then I would suggest pulling the line off the slave and pump the pedal. Does brake fluid come out? If so then its the slave, if not then work your way back through the system until you find the component thats not allowing fluid to flow, and replace it.

GL

[taiyou]

Didn't expect a perfect answer so soon:)
thanks for the info Dream240. I don't have dampner box so that's good, but do I need the hard line to slave bracket mounted on the frame rail? Mine is just hanging around freely so I dunno if that's good or not.

I did skip the MC bleeding then. No wonder I still have lot of air after bleeding for hours from slave lol.

also, is it better to get the speed bleeders valve screw(SB1010) or the "brake/clutch bleeding kit" which is a long clear hose with 1 way air valve that's on the hose? both are actually about the same price, but dunno which to get. I heard that the SB1010 leaks a bit, and the hose kit is unknown:tweak:

[Dream240]

There's a write up showing how it should look with the dampener box removed and running the hard line straight from the M/C to the slave. The rubber hose section is also reused, unless you replace that part with a SS piece from ebay.

I'll see if I can find the link.

as far as bleeding technique? Just get your mom, dad, bro, sis, neighbor, the bully from across the street, to help you by doing the pedal pumping while you handle the bleeder release screw. And for bleeding euipment I just got any 20 oz water bottle, some mechanics wire, and about 16" of clear 1/4" hose and made my own bleeder. I'll take a pic of it tonight so you can see what it looks like. Works for clutch and brakes. :)

[plane16j]

hey man i know what your going through......i replace the slave & master removed damper ,but still no pressure. so i found alil trick that worked and bled in like 3 min.......

-ok unbolt the slave from the tranny (leave the line on) next, get the person pushing the pedal to push on it a few times (slowly) and hold.. just enough to get the iner cylender to move outward (hold your finger on the inter part so it wont pop out) u should now be able to feel pressure on the slave... while still pressing on the cylender with your finger (thumb)quickly open and close the bleader screw to let the air out... still while holding in the inner cylender try your best to place and bolt it back onto the tranny....once this is done you can proceed with your normal beeding opperations. it seem kinda weired but this worked great for me and was quick.....

basicly, a slave dosent like to (begin to bleed) when its under the pressure of the clutch push rod thingy...so in some cases you have to assist it like i explained...if you havent figured it out already let me know what happens ok

[DoriftoPnoy]

two words. Vacuum Bleeder. Its teh Shiet. Don't get the onees with a pump. Those break easily. Especially the ones from harbor freight.... Get the one where you hook it up to a compressor to create a vacuum. It's pretty neat and it sure as hell does the job. At least it does for me....

[JDS Performance]

Screw all the dampers and hardlines!
Just run a steel braided line from master to slave
- Install everything on car
- You need 2 people for this task
- Fill master with fluid
- If your master has a bleeder screw - open bleeder - pump clutch pedal 4-5 times - hold to the floor - tighen bleeder screw - 1 time should get you pedal pressure
- Top off master with fluid - Do not let master run out of fluid or you will have to start all over!
- then go down under car to the slave
- install a clear tube onto bleeder screw on slave
- open bleeder screw - have helper pump clutch pedal 4-5 times - hold it to the floor tighten bleeder screw
- then have helper pump clutch pedal 4-5 times hold clutch pedals to the floor - open slave bleeder screw - let it bleed - tighten bleeder screw
Do this maybe 2-3 times - until no bubbles come out of bleeder - and your done!
Takes me 3 bleeds on a new/dry system - and pedal feel is so much better too!
I tried bleeding a damper system once - what a waste of time!!!:loco: