ca18det problem(s)

[IN33DH3LP]

OK, so I have been searching for related problems as to mine and have only found similar situations on the KA24DE engine. I have read the KA bogging thread(s) etc.. and have trouble shooted according to the suggestions on those threads. I have also downloaded the Factory Manual (thanks to www.240edge.com, this site has all factory manuals for Silvias) and tried trouble shooting accordingly.
Here is my problem (sorry for the length, also, I live 5200 feet above sea level and maybe only dirve the car once a week-just to give further background): About 3 weeks ago my car started popping in wide open throttle at about 3000RPM. I hooked up a scan tool and discovered that it was running rather lean-so I put on bigger injectors-444cc. I hooked the scan tool up again and then fuel mapped it with my AFC-Neo to meet a 14.7:1 ratio up to 6000rpm(I know-should have a professional do this). I also changed the computer from a 76 to a 98 at this point (the guy I bought the 98 from said it was mapped for the 444cc, air intake, FMIC, and 3" Exhaust). It helped with the idle, it didnt idle good before this. I thought that this would be the initial fix, then about 1 week ago it started doing it again. I did a motor vac, hoping that maybe it was just dirty injectors. On my way home after the motor vac it wasnt popping at first. I hit the Highway and as soon as I hit 3000rpm in second the car fell flat on its face, not popping but sputtering. It felt like I had blown a intercooler pipe out, but upon visual examination all piping was intact. The car started back up, idled fine, and I could rev it up to 6000rpm. I started to drive it again, 1st gear was fine, 2nd gear fell at 3000rpm, 3rd fell at about 2500rpm, and 4th fell at 2200rpm. I pulled into a SafeWay parking lot and rechecked all my connections (in case air was coming in after the MAF) and cleaned the MAF. Still same problem. I drove it down to my school, it was running EXTREMLEY rich. I have tested the MAF and all tests came back good. I checked compression and it was good. Triple checked all connectors and couplers-all good. Changed fuel filter-didnt know when the last time it was changed was. Checked Fuel pressure and it was good. Injectors were black on tips-showing it was running rich. Checked timing belt to make sure it didnt jump a tooth and it looked good. Did a self diagnosis on the ECU and it had a code 34-Detonation Sensor. When the engine swap was done I dont believe this was ever hooked up because I dont see the wire for it anywhere-going to hard wire one from my ECU to it tomorrow probably. Also, have unhooked the AFC-Neo, plan on switching back to the stock injectors, putting in ECU 76 again, and possibly new spark plugs. By doing the above steps it should help me to determine if this problem was caused by after market or stock equipment, right (although it was showing symptoms before the fuel map and larger injectros were added)? Am I taking the right steps to fix this problem? Could the Detonation Sensor be causing all of this? Anyone else experience this with a ca18det? Any advice is welcome (and as stated above, Yes-I have been searching the net for any information on this problem, but havent found anything about the ca18det engine)

Just trying to get this car running GOOD so I can sell it. Thanks for any input.

[YUNG DRIF]

what grade gas are u puttin in. i hope 91 but my rb use to detonate at high rpms till i start using race gas, and i didnt have electric fans at the time so it was running really really hot which is one other cause to detonation

[IN33DH3LP]

I put 91 octane and use dual electric fans.

[boosteds13]

You NEED the knock sensor hooked up. The car will run like pure shit (like yours does) until it is hooked up properly. And when you say you "tuned it" to 14.7:1, is that just at idle? Cruising? Both? Which wideband are you using?

[kota2240]

does this happen when the car is cold or warmed up?

I had the same problem as you when my CA warmed up (the motor kept shutting down after a few thousand rpms.)..try that..I got the universal o2 bosch at advance and problem went away.

[kota2240]

take a look at the detonation sensor too

[boosteds13]

take a look at the detonation sensor too


Is there an echo? :)

[IN33DH3LP]

It does this hot or cold. Definatly starting at Detonation Sensor tomorrow, that was the plan. But, I dont think that it was ever hooked up, and it did run fine for about 500 miles (have only had it for about 550 miles). The wiring diagram said it should be a single white wire that runs to it, but it looks like it goes through other connectors on the wiring diagram (its small print and hard to read, will double check tomorrow). I know that pin 27 is a white wire and for the detonation sensor, do you think it would be safe to just ward wire it into that white wire and then run it to the detonation sensor? I assume it would. The 14.7:1 was done at idle with a Snap-On Mobis (I think) scanner and Electronic Gas Analyzer. Like I said earlier, I know I didnt do it right and have since reset it to 0% changes and unhooked it (done today).

[IN33DH3LP]

ok, I have hooked up the detonation/knock sensor. The ECU is not throwing any codes, only a code 55 meaning its ok. The car is still falling on its face. Going to check for pressure on the intake side. Anymore ideas or help?

Edit-I unhooked a vacuum line at intake manifold, and tested. I have vacuum but there is no pressure. I really dont know if this is normal, good, or bad. My friend said there should be pressure through out the intercooler system and seems to think my turbo is blown because of this. He's pretty retarded on some stuff, so I thought I would ask people who are experienced. Any opinions or help would be welcomed. Also, sorry if I am coming off stupid, I'm just ignorant when it comes to some of this stuff and am trying to change that.