PDA

View Full Version : building a box..


BEISSEN
08-05-2002, 09:22 AM
Ok i was wondering if any one here knows how to build a box for 12 inch subs.Theare going to be sealed and they hav e to be within 1.20-1.80 cubic feet.I am trying to do a custome setup so no bulky boxs please.I will be making two boxes one for each side of my trunk.I am trying to get them as close to my fender wells as possiable.Then i am going to have to seal off the fender wells for a temporary until i have to fix something in there.can you guy/gals give me some ideas and help me on my box.

BEISSEN
08-05-2002, 01:20 PM
Ok so no one knows how to build a box here or dont want to help me out hunh.Ok

uiuc240
08-05-2002, 02:04 PM
First off, why two 12's? &nbsp;I have one JL 12W0 in a perfectly built and engineered 1.5 cu.ft. box. &nbsp;It's so tight, I had to hammer in the last piece. &nbsp;And then it's siliconed too. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> &nbsp;Anyway, just that one box takes up almost half my trunk. &nbsp;Shitty part about the 240 is the the trunk is shallow. &nbsp;The box is long...like 25" long, 14" wide and 12" deep or something (I can't remember the exact dimensions). &nbsp;Anyway, the point is, if you don't NEED two 12's (and you don't unless you're in IASCA) then don't use two 12's. &nbsp;Just get one, build a nice box, and juice it.

Eric

Apparition
08-05-2002, 03:55 PM
Building a box is easy. You just have to know how much air space you need inside the box. Once you have that, and know your trunk dimensions, work out ways to have that airspace with specific boxes. Pen/paper works nicely. Once you have that all figured out (length, width, depth), buy 3/4 medium-density fibreboard, and gets a cuttin'. One that is all done, nail it together, then apply silicone on the inside to create an airtight seal. Just some basic woodworking skills are needed for a simple sealed box.

If you're looking to do bandpass, vented boxes, you better read some info on the net. They're hard as hell from what I understand. Just more math basically.

uiuc240
08-05-2002, 04:07 PM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Apparition @ Aug. 05 2002,4:55)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">One that is all done, nail it together, then apply silicone on the inside to create an airtight seal.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
nail? &nbsp;no. &nbsp;use screws. &nbsp;don't want that thing pulling apart even a little bit or you'll get leaks and leaks make a speaker sound like crapola.

and yes, a sealed box is easier to build, but less forgiving if the size is off. &nbsp;a ported box will at least let the sub 'breathe' if it's too small. &nbsp;you can lose TONS of boom if your box is the wrong size with a sealed inclosure. &nbsp;if it's too small, there's too much pressure in the back and it becomes inefficient. &nbsp;too big and it gets muddy and loses handling power because it's too easy for it to bottom out.

sealed is easy, but you can still fuck it up <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> &nbsp;do the math. &nbsp;build it right.

Eric

BEISSEN
08-05-2002, 06:31 PM
Ok can someone explain cubic feet i am getting 4 8"subs insted now here is the info.Two are going in the trunk and then two are going in the back seat of my car so i have boom all around ahaha.the twelves were to much in space wise that isas where all i need now is like .75 cubic feet instead of 1.20-1.80.I am trying ot keep my spare tire in the trunk and later my full size spare but that is much much later.So can i get some help also i can do open air with these subs is that better for my trunk and easyer?

MA Audio's XE series subwoofers are a true bargain. With a beefy chrome basket, butyl rubber surround, and serious cooling, these are some of the sickest subs around. Patented Thermo-Cool technology ensures the motor assembly takes every watt of power you can dish its way, while the non-pressed paper cone is super-stiff and light for great transient attacks. 2" Kapton voice coil former can handle mind-boggling power and heat, so the slot-vented motor structure and has its work cut out for it. Chrome-plated basket helps contain the madness while looking super-sweet in your trunk. Dual 4-ohm voice coils can be wired together for a single 2-ohm or 8-ohm load.
Features

Chrome-Plated Basket
Non-Pressed Paper Cone
2" Butyl Rubber Foam Surround
High-Temp Kapton Voice Coil Former
Patented Thermo-Cool Slot Vented Motor Structure
60 oz. Double Stacked Strontium Magnets
Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coils
Chrome-Plated Push Terminals
Rubber Mounting Gasket
Mounting Depth: 4"



&nbsp;Subwoofer Specifications &nbsp;

Size: 8 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.35 - 0.60 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 0.75 cu.ft.
Free Air Usage: yes
Sensitivity: 86.6 dB
Frequency Response: 30-500 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 250W
Peak Power Handling: 500W
Impedance: dual 4 ohms

mazdog240
08-05-2002, 07:53 PM
I would mount two of them free-air style. Just figure out exactly where you what them, cut a piece of 1/2" MDF (medium-density-fiberboard &nbsp;available at any hardware store that sells sheets of wood, they will usually cut it for you too if you know all the sizes you will need) to fit the mounting area. Cut a hole in this piece screw in the speaker with "dry wall screws (available at the same harware store you got the MDF from). Mount the mounting piece with speaker and wire up.
For the the other two MAKE a SEALED box. One cubic foot(F) is 12" x 12" x 12" (you do the math). So if you need .75 cubic feet of space then you need .75 x F. So figure that that out and then start drawing/sketching your box out. Do all the math til you determine a box that has the right space and will fit in the trunk. &nbsp;Note: a nice simple square/rectangle box is very easy, doesn't look that great, but it is very easy.
Once you know the dimensions for the box cut up your MDF (use 3/4" for this). Now test fit it all togeather to make sure eveything lines up nice. Then start drillin small pilot holes. Then screw it all togeather. You can use silicone caulk to seal it, but i reccomend using "Liquid Nails" (at the hardware store) this stuff will seal it and give the seams loads of strength. &nbsp;Hope this all makes sense. I have built many boxes in my day and they all kicked ass once they were done right (several didn't work out right the first time)

Remember measure twice, cut once.

Frappe
08-06-2002, 08:30 AM
buy my box? please? &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
well, I guess while I'm trying to whore it out...it's easily worth $350, fits the S14 trunk really well, although I'm told that it has some crackle at super high volume. I'm selling it for $250, good deal on a nice box...if you don't feel like making one yourself.

Ok, I'm done now. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

-Frappe

MyFirst240SX
08-06-2002, 09:05 PM
Does any one know the specs on myspeaker, i think i want to build a new box for it. Its a JL 15 WO i think.
Now that had Plently of Boom=)