John_R
04-05-2007, 12:46 PM
Originally posted on KA-T.org but haven't got any responses. I'd like to get a little advice before the weekend so I can get a game plan ready.
-------------------------------------
Setup:
1998 240sx SE, 5 Speed
T25 SR20DET Turbo
370cc SR20DET Injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
SAFC-II
SSAC Manifold/Elbow
Megan Downpipe
Ebay FMIC
Situation:
Pretty run of the mill installation. Lots of fabricated vacuum and boost hoses, etc. One thing I noticed during the installataion was that one of the 370cc injectors had a crack in the small plastic cap on the tip. So I was a little nervous about putting it in the motor and having the cap fall into the engine. But went against my best judgement and installed them anyways.
Question #1: Does anyone know what the purpose is of these little plastic "tips"?
Also, I removed the intake manifold to clean, and remove the egr system. In removing this system I removed all valves that went with this system and the absolutle pressure sensor, etc. I made sure to leave the idle vlaves in place and fully connected. During this time I took the time to cap off all the extra nipples and replace the rats nest of small brass looking tubing with new fuel lines/vacuum lines. When I had the manifold off, I also replaced the "water line" loop that ran through the center of the intake manifold and in the throttle body. I replaced all this with a straight through line to the heater core lines.
Question #2: In removing the EGR / Evap stuff, could I have possibly done something to hurt the running condition of the car?
Next, the wiring. So i followed the diagram from the PLX website. Using the diagram for a 95-98. Everything seems to go as planned. I also hooked up a boost gauge and oil gauge, again, no issues. After I test the initial powering up of all the devices I proceed to follow a lot of advice given on this board and setup my SAFC-II to the following:
Lo throttle: - 27% on all RPM
Hi throttle: - 27% on all RPM
MAF: 5in/5out
Sensor type: Hotwire
All other settings=default
So at this point I decide that I should turn over the car and see if there is any obvious glitches or problems. I turn the ACC on and off 3-4 times to "Prime" the fuel lines. Then crank it. The car turns over VERY quickly and idles up to around 1200 rpm. Then the idle starts to stumble, a couple hundred RPM drop every couple of seconds. There is a ton of white smoke out the tail pipe. My boost gauge is in the -20 (vacuum) range. My oil pressure is around 50-60. Then the car dies, and sounds like the bottom end is going to drop when it does. A bit of a clunk/clunk sound. This could be from my exhaust pipes, or I/C pipes being close to the chasis though.
And on another note: My SAFC-II had no readings of RPM, Knock,etc. I went to sensor test, I have like 0.564 volts on MAF and 0.15 on Throttle.
When I depress the throttle (with the car off), this voltage does not change. Which makes me lead to beleive that my wiring could be completely wrong.
Question #3: Who can help me? *laugh* Its hard to ask a specific question on this one.
Maybe the SAFC isn't hooked up right. Dumping 27% more fuel into the engine. I used this diagram: http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/johnwr1983/PLXDiagram240sx_Page_1-1.jpg
Question #4: How do I set the timing without the car running? I wanted to set it but the car doesn't run. So I'm not sure how to adjust it without the car idling.
UPDATE to original post:
Update:
I decided to pull the Intake Mani, and Exhaust Mani. In doing so, I noticed that 2 of the intake manifold bolts were not torqued down. They were a little more than hand tight. These bolts were the two between Cyclinder #1 and the Water outlet. Also, sitting on TOP of the valves there was about a cap or so of coolant sitting there. So I'm assuming water was leaking from the intake manifold to cylinder #1.
So here is what I get when I test the cylinders.
Compression:[/B]
Cylinder #1 - 190
Cylinder #2 - 165
Cylinder #3 - 160
Cylinder #4 - 170
I am assuming that cylinder #1 is a little high because of some residual fluid in the cylinder. Blew out as much as I could so I guess it will just have to burn off a bit.
So what do you guys think? go ahead and put everything back together and give it a shot? I really need some advice on where to go from here.
-------------------------------------
Setup:
1998 240sx SE, 5 Speed
T25 SR20DET Turbo
370cc SR20DET Injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
SAFC-II
SSAC Manifold/Elbow
Megan Downpipe
Ebay FMIC
Situation:
Pretty run of the mill installation. Lots of fabricated vacuum and boost hoses, etc. One thing I noticed during the installataion was that one of the 370cc injectors had a crack in the small plastic cap on the tip. So I was a little nervous about putting it in the motor and having the cap fall into the engine. But went against my best judgement and installed them anyways.
Question #1: Does anyone know what the purpose is of these little plastic "tips"?
Also, I removed the intake manifold to clean, and remove the egr system. In removing this system I removed all valves that went with this system and the absolutle pressure sensor, etc. I made sure to leave the idle vlaves in place and fully connected. During this time I took the time to cap off all the extra nipples and replace the rats nest of small brass looking tubing with new fuel lines/vacuum lines. When I had the manifold off, I also replaced the "water line" loop that ran through the center of the intake manifold and in the throttle body. I replaced all this with a straight through line to the heater core lines.
Question #2: In removing the EGR / Evap stuff, could I have possibly done something to hurt the running condition of the car?
Next, the wiring. So i followed the diagram from the PLX website. Using the diagram for a 95-98. Everything seems to go as planned. I also hooked up a boost gauge and oil gauge, again, no issues. After I test the initial powering up of all the devices I proceed to follow a lot of advice given on this board and setup my SAFC-II to the following:
Lo throttle: - 27% on all RPM
Hi throttle: - 27% on all RPM
MAF: 5in/5out
Sensor type: Hotwire
All other settings=default
So at this point I decide that I should turn over the car and see if there is any obvious glitches or problems. I turn the ACC on and off 3-4 times to "Prime" the fuel lines. Then crank it. The car turns over VERY quickly and idles up to around 1200 rpm. Then the idle starts to stumble, a couple hundred RPM drop every couple of seconds. There is a ton of white smoke out the tail pipe. My boost gauge is in the -20 (vacuum) range. My oil pressure is around 50-60. Then the car dies, and sounds like the bottom end is going to drop when it does. A bit of a clunk/clunk sound. This could be from my exhaust pipes, or I/C pipes being close to the chasis though.
And on another note: My SAFC-II had no readings of RPM, Knock,etc. I went to sensor test, I have like 0.564 volts on MAF and 0.15 on Throttle.
When I depress the throttle (with the car off), this voltage does not change. Which makes me lead to beleive that my wiring could be completely wrong.
Question #3: Who can help me? *laugh* Its hard to ask a specific question on this one.
Maybe the SAFC isn't hooked up right. Dumping 27% more fuel into the engine. I used this diagram: http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/johnwr1983/PLXDiagram240sx_Page_1-1.jpg
Question #4: How do I set the timing without the car running? I wanted to set it but the car doesn't run. So I'm not sure how to adjust it without the car idling.
UPDATE to original post:
Update:
I decided to pull the Intake Mani, and Exhaust Mani. In doing so, I noticed that 2 of the intake manifold bolts were not torqued down. They were a little more than hand tight. These bolts were the two between Cyclinder #1 and the Water outlet. Also, sitting on TOP of the valves there was about a cap or so of coolant sitting there. So I'm assuming water was leaking from the intake manifold to cylinder #1.
So here is what I get when I test the cylinders.
Compression:[/B]
Cylinder #1 - 190
Cylinder #2 - 165
Cylinder #3 - 160
Cylinder #4 - 170
I am assuming that cylinder #1 is a little high because of some residual fluid in the cylinder. Blew out as much as I could so I guess it will just have to burn off a bit.
So what do you guys think? go ahead and put everything back together and give it a shot? I really need some advice on where to go from here.