View Full Version : 90 300zx TT downpipe removal
JDMwannaBE
04-04-2007, 05:49 PM
how do i remove the stock downpipes on a 90' TT 300zx? i cant get to the bolts. any tricks to it???? thanks alot
how do i remove the stock downpipes on a 90' TT 300zx? i cant get to the bolts. any tricks to it???? thanks alot
That depends, with or without trans in place and auto or manual? I was able to do mine with everything in place but it was a PITA. You will need a nice set of gearwrenches with angle heads, it saves alot of time. I got to them from the top on both sides, pass side is easy, just remove the battery, driver side snake your hand under the BMC. The bottom ones in the arm pit of the DP will require a slim open end wrench with a 30degree head and alot of patience.
420sx
04-04-2007, 07:05 PM
check the pics in fsm
JDMwannaBE
04-05-2007, 12:12 PM
everything is still in place, and i dont have any gear wrenches....lol. its a manual trans also.
240trainee
04-05-2007, 12:16 PM
well, based on what these guys said, and having seen some 300zx's before, I think it's time to get some tools, lol.
JDMwannaBE
04-05-2007, 05:26 PM
the wrenches dont matter. you cant get to the bolts on the turbo outlet to even use a damn gear wrench. i have the pass. side off, but cant get to the drivers side. it isnt my car i was just helpin a friend, i cant wait to be done so i never have to work on another one!
wootwoot
04-05-2007, 06:39 PM
I think the book calls for you to pull the motor. For serious.
bardabe
04-05-2007, 06:55 PM
nop pull the BMC and you should be able to get it off. I got mine off like that a few years ago. it was a bitch but i get her done.
the wrenches dont matter. you cant get to the bolts on the turbo outlet to even use a damn gear wrench. i have the pass. side off, but cant get to the drivers side. it isnt my car i was just helpin a friend, i cant wait to be done so i never have to work on another one!
Thats funny, i got to mine fine, it takes a little creativity but it worked out fine once you get that heatsheild out of the way.
yea thats really no big deal pulling a 300zx motor is like only a 20 hr job...lol my buddy has a 300zx and i helped him do a full exhaust the driver's side was deff a pain but it can be done. Id recommend going to sears and getting a set of 3/8 drive flex drive sockets or if you can find em get just the one or two you need depending on if the existing dp has the original hardware or not. you will also need some extensions and it helps a lot if you use pb blaster (WD40) only better, and if necessary a map gas torch to heat up the nuts. then get under the car with a drop light and get the extensions and and proper swivel socket on the ratchet so your all set when you get the nuts heated up. now soak down the nuts and bolts and wait about 5 min for the liquid to penetrate. keep hosing it down every minute or so. then try and take the bolts out. if you cant get them then just heat up the nuts. be very careful not to burn any wires, sensors or other plastic parts. also dont get the parts red hot just get them kinda hot just not enough that you wouldnt want to touch them. also try to heat up around the bolts but avoid directly heating the bolts because the idea is to expand the outer threads so you can break free the rust inside the threads...let me know how this works for you. I hope it helps
JDMwannaBE
04-09-2007, 01:39 PM
thanks guys i got em off, i did remove the BMC and used PB blaster and a torch. the aftermarket ones are much easier to work with. thanks again.
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