Clutch pedal moves laterally...

[AdamP]

There are no issues with the clutch at all. Works perfectly fine, good pressure.

The only problem I have is that the pedal itself is moving over to the right laterally and basically touching the brake pedal in some instances. This doesn't make the car undrivable but it makes it a PITA to actually shift quickly.

Any ideas?

[mRclARK1]

How about a new clutch pedal....

[DP_Michelle G]

the spot weld broke, just get it welded make sure the person that is doing knows were to weld it or it will never be even

[!Zar!]

You need a new clutch pedal bracket.

Nismo makes one.
http://www.nengun.com/image/catalogue/original/nengun-1221-02-nismo-clutch_pedal_bracket.jpg

[AdamP]

180SX clutch bracket would be the same as a 240SX clutch bracket? I have an S13.

[silverarrow27]

If you can get an extra for free then go for it. But why get another used clutch pedal bracket when you can have your current one welded back together and it will out last any other bracket.

[s13speeddrft]

its not another used one. NIsmo makes a brand new unit that comes with extra spot welds in the stressed areas that generally break. Just replaced my bracket and it made a world of difference.

[DP_Michelle G]

^^ Yep and you paid to much just have it welded it will cost you less then 25 bucks to do it.

michelle

[AdamP]

Well it happened...

Today on the freeway the clutch pedal totally gave out. Basically, it went down to the floor and then it did not return at all. Had to get it towed the rest of the 5km back home.

This isn't a result of the busted clutch bracket is it?

[silverarrow27]

^^ Yep and you paid to much just have it welded it will cost you less then 25 bucks to do it.

michelle

Definitely overpaid, my brother just had is spot welded two weeks ago for $20.

Adam, that is the result of a broken bracket. Same thing happened to my brother driving back from work. He ended up pumping the pedal until he can get into gear each gear shift and drove it home about 5 miles from home.

[AdamP]

Would a busted clutch pedal bracket contribute to no pressure in the clutch at all?

[DP_Michelle G]

No it would not cause pressure loss. check under the dash and see if you busted the clutch m/c when the bracket broke

michelle

[johngriff]

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1089147#post1089147

[AdamP]

Yeah, I'm basically looking under the dash and the bracket itself is broken on the side. There are no leaks anywhere from what I can tell. Brake fluid is full. These cylinders can fail even if it doens't look like they are leaking?

John, DP_Michelle G,
The clutch seems to be engaging the piston in the master cylinder but there appears to be no pressure. Maybe the last 1/4" there is some resistance offered. When the car is started there is no pressure at all, only on this last quarter inch then the clutch is pushed there is a bit of chatter but the gear will not change.

I'm a total noob with these things, are there any other things I can check without attempting to open the clutch housing. Is there some sort of pivot I can check that may have busted?

[DP_Michelle G]

fix the bracket first.

then start looking for other stuff that why you dont spend cash on stuff you dont need

[AdamP]

Ok, I tried to uninstall the bracket but I could not.

I believe the back of the bracket is bolted in with the same bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place. I don't have a lift, nor do I have a breaker bar. What would be the best way to remove it?

Also, about the slave cylinder. I noticed that the slave cylinder nub was not lying in the indentation of the clutch pedal that protrudes through the firewall. With the slave cylinder, I noticed that the little nub can easily move around and I can push the nub in with a little bit of resistance. It is slow to come back out. I could also move the clutch pedal protruding through the firewall around laterally and in and out easily with my hand.

I could see how the clutch pedal bracket would make the slave cylinder nub slide off during a hard shift but even after recentering it I do not get pressure in the pedal and it flops down to the floor. Should I replace the slave as well?

The master cylinder is totally brand new and in mint condition. There were no leaks or traces of leaks that I could find. The fluids were full as well.

Thanks for bearing with me guys, as you can see I'm a total noob and I appreciate the help. The car is basically sitting in my garage and a tow to a shop would be more expensive than actually myself buying the parts, taking my time and getting a learning experience along the way.

[silverarrow27]

From what I remember, There will be two bolts facing the firewall under the dash; those two bolts are the clutch master cylinder nuts/bolts holding the bracket it place. You have to take off the clutch master cylinder to get the bracket off under the dash. Everything else under there should be straight forward.

And there is no slave cylinder anywhere else besides mounted on the transmission under the car.

[johngriff]

Call mechanic.

Take car to him.

Pay him to repair car.

Drive car.

[silverarrow27]

Or what johngriff said.

[AdamP]

I think this fix is going to require pulling open the bellhousing (snapped pivot ball). Searched here and there doesn't seem to be much insight into how to do this.

For the people that suggested going to the mechanic can you tell me what parts I would need for a clutch overhaul? Seeing as the motor is an SR20DET S13 redtop I'd have to get the parts myself as nobody would have them on hand locally. I would like to replace every critical part.

The vehicle already has a new master cylinder. I can think of right now,
-slave cylinder (what would be good if I were to go with an aftermarket clutch)
-clutch pedal bracket
-pivot ball
-...

Would it be wise to replace the clutch while everything is open? Maybe some sort of clutch that would be good for 300rwhp or so. I don't think a huge clutch would be wise as it would be hard on the cylinders?

[spinitsidewayz]

Call mechanic.

Take car to him.

Pay him to repair car.

Drive car.

where's the fun in that?

snapped pivot ball? damn, your clutch system decided to break all at once? im confused though...

"Also, about the slave cylinder. I noticed that the slave cylinder nub was not lying in the indentation of the clutch pedal that protrudes through the firewall. With the slave cylinder, I noticed that the little nub can easily move around and I can push the nub in with a little bit of resistance. It is slow to come back out. I could also move the clutch pedal protruding through the firewall around laterally and in and out easily with my hand."

i believe you are talking about the release fork? there should be a little bit of play. maybe you need to bleed your lines.

[spinitsidewayz]

from the pics you sent me, looks like the retaining spring for the clutchfork came off? i dont know if thats possible. something in there is definitely messed up though.

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5194/dsc01483copy7yt.jpg

fsm pic.
11514

[johngriff]

oh, sounds like the little snap ring popped off the pivot ball.

I really. Really. Really. Really Doubt that you 'snaped/crushed/destroyed' the pivot ball. I think its hardened stainless tool steel.

Try taking the slave cylinder off, and pushing the fork back towards the tranny.

All the parts are the same as the KA on the pivot ball and front cover area, and the clutch fork, so you will be AOK just ordering 240sx stuff to replace it.

I suggested taking it to a mechanic, because alot of the terminologies you have been using are way off, and I was getting really confused...

"I noticed that the slave cylinder nub was not lying in the indentation of the clutch pedal that protrudes through the firewall."

[AdamP]

Yeah my bad, like I said I'm not really a mechanic. I have done simple bolts ons but nothing like a tranny.

Would you suggest trying this myself?

If I took this to a mechanic how long would something like this take?

[johngriff]

We would have this done in 4 hours, you would not even have time for the jager shots to wear off ;)

[Ninjabread]

It's a piece of cake when you know what you are doing and have access to all the tools you need.

Isn't that slave cylinder done?

[AdamP]

LOL, it took me about 15 minutes to put in a beefed up timing chain tensioner because it was so tight in there... I guess that gives you an idea of my mechanical prowess.

That was only to replace two screws so I have no idea how long this would take. I only have a ratchet kit, some wrenches and a lift with some axle stands. I may give it a shot.

Are there any upgraded slave cylinders that I can use?

[Ninjabread]

I believe Nismo makes a salve cylinder.

Few tips for you:

1- Get the driveshaft off by undoing the 14mm nuts near the diff

2- Make sure you tilt the motor back by putting a jack with a 2x4 under the crank pulley, this will help you get to the top bolts and also line up the tranny.

3- When you reinstall the tranny, make sure that its in gear. That will let you turn the output shaft to line up the splines.

4- Patience. Trust me, you'll need it.

Good luck!

[johngriff]

What?!?! DriveShaft off the DIFF? Just from the center junction, you'd have to take this off anyways...

I dont know if jacking from the crank pulley is going to do much more than start warping the crank, what is wrong with lifting with a cherry picker?

[Ninjabread]

If you have a ka, you dont undo it near the tranny. Much easier to take off 4 bolts near the driveshaft.

[1Via!]

Pivot balls have been known to fail.