installed rocker arm stoppers, car wont start and tapping sound

[240m3srt]

Just installed Phase2motorsports RAS on my sr20det redtop. The car will not start and i hear a tapping sound. Obviously somethings hitting but what? RAS are a direct bolt in right, wasnt supposed to do anything else was i????

[SC_S13]

check if you forgot to replug in any plumbing or sensors etc

[Gramentz]

How did you install them? Or, do you have any pics of them installed?

[240m3srt]

How did you install them? Or, do you have any pics of them installed?

Yea here lmk what you think:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS005.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS006.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS007.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS008.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS009.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/1bdsrt/RAS010.jpg

[kevtrinh]

Looks fine to me, check your plugs again.

[Cashizslick]

:werd:

Make sure the plugs & all are back in properly.

[ladiesman8527]

check and make sure that you didnt disconnect the ground on the coil pack harness, or damage any of the wires while removing the valve cover. just trying to give ideas.

[kensreliableb18b]

yea looks fine. double check everything is secure. u can take off the plate on the exhaust cam if want. oh same goes for the guide up front.

[steve shadows]

You cant see anything of any consequence in the pics. What you (guys) who claim it looks ok are not thinking outside the very basic box.

Dude you might have jarred a shim off the top of one of the valves or retainers when the cam caps were lifted. Also you could have also who knows how but pumped some of the lifters full of air. Also make sure that you did not jump a tooth on the cam sprocket.:hammer:

did you set the motor to tdc and then take out the chain tensioner before loosening the cam caps? If you did not you did not take the full precautions and the tension could have dragged something off a tooth or out of place in the hydrolic valve train.

cheers.

[kensreliableb18b]

assuming that he ONLY installed ras, i'd highly doubt that he caused any movement in the shims with the cams being seated and all. its takes some good force to pop those suckers out. same goes for the air in the lifters.

[240m3srt]

yea looks fine. double check everything is secure. u can take off the plate on the exhaust cam if want. oh same goes for the guide up front.

Are you saying i could have taken off that little plate that reads 52E20? It was in the way so i cut it down. I wasnt sure about removing it becuase it appears to be a shield keeping oil from going out the valve cover where the breather filter is(just a guess)? What is the guide up front?

[240m3srt]

You cant see anything of any consequence in the pics. What you (guys) who claim it looks ok are not thinking outside the very basic box.

Dude you might have jarred a shim off the top of one of the valves or retainers when the cam caps were lifted. Also you could have also who knows how but pumped some of the lifters full of air. Also make sure that you did not jump a tooth on the cam sprocket.:hammer:

did you set the motor to tdc and then take out the chain tensioner before loosening the cam caps? If you did not you did not take the full precautions and the tension could have dragged something off a tooth or out of place in the hydrolic valve train.

cheers.

When i used "search" i found a link to Tomeis RAS install instructions. It was just a tourque sequence with torque specs. It didnt say anything about the tensioner. The cams lifted off the cam carrier no more than 2mm. Only thing i didnt do as per the instructions was i torqued the bolts down by hand. Is it possible to over torque to where the cams wont spin? I figured a bolt would strip before that would happen?

[kensreliableb18b]

yea you can take it off, oil should go to your catch tank anyway and not a breather. timing chain guide on the front of your motor; u dont need it.

[kensreliableb18b]

When i used "search" i found a link to Tomeis RAS install instructions. It was just a tourque sequence with torque specs. It didnt say anything about the tensioner. The cams lifted off the cam carrier no more than 2mm. Only thing i didnt do as per the instructions was i torqued the bolts down by hand. Is it possible to over torque to where the cams wont spin? I figured a bolt would strip before that would happen?

would have been better if you popped the tensioner out but it should still be ok. if you had tighten the cap bolts too much in one concentrated area you run the risk of snapping your cams; just a heads up for next time.

[240m3srt]

would have been better if you popped the tensioner out but it should still be ok. if you had tighten the cap bolts too much in one concentrated area you run the risk of snapping your cams; just a heads up for next time.

Having said that could overtightening cause the cams not to spin easily as they should and thats why the car turns over but wont start?

I didnt see any grounds for the coils? Not sure i know what im looking for.

Also, does anyone know what the fsm tq spec is for the cam caps? Is it expressed i nft lbs or inch lbs?

[gotta240]

DO NOT "HAND TIGHTEN" vidal enging bolts. Go TORQUE them before you do or think about doing anything.

[jdm_s14_zenki]

you must torque those bolts in sequence and by spec. if you tighten to much, when you losen them to retorque, you might strip the the threads inside the walls. if that happens, you gotta find a longer bolt (2mm longer?) to catch the deeper threads. you are torquing into aluminum, very soft compared to cast iron. be careful and always torque ur shit to spec when messing with the head, or learn the hard way. as for not starting, u probably didnt plug something in.

[seven.62]

there is an important ground for the coils that is on the back of the head, there is a black wire comming out of the coils pack harness it is small and has a little ring on it for the 10mm small bolt to go through to ground it, if you feel behind the head there is an threaded hole for it, i missed this in one of my swaps and the motor did not start. diagnosing problems and fixing your 240 is half the fun of owning one. good luck

p.s. I would seriously check your torque settings on those cam cap bolts with a torque wrench before you get it started.

[240m3srt]

Thanks guys i went back and loosened all the cam cap bolts and retourqed them down to 10ft lbs(spec was 6.7-8.7) or something like that. I also removed that little shield piece. The car fired up but sounded a little funny and wouldnt hold idle at first. I let it run a bit and it smoothed out. Then i took it out and boosted it everything feels fine thus far.

One question though about the timing chain tensioner...is that the little thing on the right(passenger side) of the head held on by two bolts. Is it manual or hydraulic? What im asking is does it automatically keep pressure on the timing chain via oil pressure or do you have to manually preload/tighten it? This way i know for next time...

[projectRDM]

You learned a valuable lesson and were damn lucky, over torquing the cam towers can easily snap a cam or sheer the tower clean off.
The tensioner is the 2bolt object in the exhaust side of the head, it's self adjusting and does not need any maintainence unless it's damaged.

[gotta240]

i'm still not sure why you didn't torque TO THE SPECS......

Any reason?

[jdm_s14_zenki]

Thanks guys i went back and loosened all the cam cap bolts and retourqed them down to 10ft lbs(spec was 6.7-8.7) or something like that. I also removed that little shield piece. The car fired up but sounded a little funny and wouldnt hold idle at first. I let it run a bit and it smoothed out. Then i took it out and boosted it everything feels fine thus far.

One question though about the timing chain tensioner...is that the little thing on the right(passenger side) of the head held on by two bolts. Is it manual or hydraulic? What im asking is does it automatically keep pressure on the timing chain via oil pressure or do you have to manually preload/tighten it? This way i know for next time...
as for the torque specs, off the top of my head, there are three seperate torque sequences. first one i believe is around 2 ft lbs in order, then like 4, then 8 is the last. this enables the cams to be perfectly level and torqued. always use motor oil on the camshaft journals (the smooth round parts) of the cams, to give lubrication betweeen the metal surfaces.

as for the tensioner, i believe its spring loaded. you lock it in place with a hook, install it, then the hook will release tightening your chain. good luck.

[240m3srt]

i'm still not sure why you didn't torque TO THE SPECS......

Any reason?

I didnt have a tq wrench that reads that low so i figured hand tightening with a small 1/4 inch ratchet would limit the tq i put on each bolt. I did cams on a Honda GSR this way and dint have any problems.

Long story short its not worth the risk looking back so im glad i went and bought a 0-75lb tq wrench.

[rps13drift]

I didnt have a tq wrench that reads that low so i figured hand tightening with a small 1/4 inch ratchet would limit the tq i put on each bolt. I did cams on a Honda GSR this way and dint have any problems.

Long story short its not worth the risk looking back so im glad i went and bought a 0-75lb tq wrench.

I ran into the same problem when i did my cams:eek: and its funny because i did the same method of tq'ing you did and everything worked out fine!