Car will only start when jumped.

[sblack13]

Ok so long story short, I was removing the battery when it was raining (s13 sr20 in 93 s13). Dropped the wrench and it fell on both the pos and neg terminal. The battery sparked like crazy for about 1 second. I know, shit happens though. After that, the battery was completly dead. Nothing worked, checked 75amp fuse. It is fine. So I charged the battery, battery could't charge (oddessy 680) crap so. I bought a new battery, put it in. Hook it up turn key, click...(from the fuse box by the clutch pedal) So thinking i bought a bad battery. I hooked up another battery from one of my other cars. Same thing happened click.

Now heres where it gets tricky the car will only jump when jumpstarted. It starts fine, so I know the starter is fine. The clutch interlock should work. When the car runs when jumpstarted it runs perfect aside from the fact it stumbles and almosts die at idle when you boost it, it feels normal. It almost feels like the ignitor isn't getting the right voltage. It was fine before the battery sparked, so i'm pretty sure this is linked.

Now when the key is on accessories, everything work fans, fuel pump, door chime, etc. The cars clock timer also resets everytime you open/close the door. The car does not crank or turn over unless jumpstarted.

Anyone have a similar problem??

[sblack13]

any help? thanks

[Ess14]

I had a slightly similar situation, but it Was just a bad battery. My SR cranked, though... I brought it in and it was dead, bad cell, whizzing noise.
I find it odd that it cranks and turns over when the battery's got a boost, but it doesn't even crank otherwise. Maybe something pulling a huge current draw.
If you open the door without the courtesey light turning on, does the clock reset?

Sorry I can't be of good help.

[sblack13]

yes the clock resets when door is open/closed it just started happening, thanks any bit of help is appreciated.

[lonelydrifter]

Im not sure if this will help but its just one thing you can check. I had a problem like this when that little plastic piece came out of my clutch pedal and was no longer pushing the button that connects circuit for starter. Just one thing to narrow the list of causes. As for what happened to your battery I was sliding one time and that metal battery holder came loose and connected my terminals. The car died and the shit welded itself to the terminals and I had to kick it off. But after that my battery still worked and the car has been fine even started up right afterward.

[Sileighty_85]

Check your grounds I had a similar problem turns out I had fried some grounds and a few wires were melted together

[Ess14]

I was sliding one time and that metal battery holder came loose and connected my terminals. The car died and the shit welded itself to the terminals and I had to kick it off.

Sorry, but :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

By the way, the clutch switch is fine, because it does start when he jumps it...

[sblack13]

i tried pressing the little switch by hand manually, btw sileighty which grounds were fried?? i tried sanding the connections. But don't see any melted wires, if you could put them out i'd be much appreciated. Thanks, everyone.

[Dream240]

Check all your fuses for the dome light/clock problem. There's a 10A fuse (3rd from the top right) under the dash that's most likely blown. It's a main fuse.

check all the fuses down there while your at it. Replace as needed.
The clicking is your ignition relay.

[ROTTEN EGG]

i just got out of a load of similar problems.

1. check grounds (every single one of them while your at it)
2. check fuses (under hood and driver side kick pannel. check the first green 30amp fuse, i just shorted that one out the other day when doing a kill switch. Had same exact problem.
3. could be a burnt wire somewhere in the harness. Shorted my Constant 12v+ while doing my deck wirring and after that my clock, dome, and a few others were acting up. Fuses were all fine surprisingly so had a hard time finding out it was the constant 12v+ .

also when you jump the car, do you connect the clamps to the frame or the neg. terminal on the batt? if you connect it to the frame and it works than you have some bad grounds .

[bo2o]

check all fuses
check alternator..
mayb a diode died.
good time to change to quest alternator haha

[sblack13]

well the car started up on its on today without jump. Turns out the ecu could handle fuel pump, but i guess part of the ignition part of it got burnt out and could't supply enough power. So I replaced ecu's and it started no problem.

But thing is the car still idles funny like it wants to die, it drives perfect though. No smoke, just shakes like crazy.

[ROTTEN EGG]

if it drives perfect, that rules out some but minght want to check them out anyways. what motor are you running?

[sblack13]

s13 sr20det redtop

[ROTTEN EGG]

i had this problem about a month ago, turn out my engine ground got loose. many possible problems, what have you checked so far?

[sblack13]

i've checked engine grounds, and sanded them. Which of your grounds came loose??

[ROTTEN EGG]

the oue comming off the side of the intake manifold. relocated the battery and forgot all about it and my car drive like crap. crazy idle at 2.5k nearly 3k at times then back to normal. secured the ground on the chassis and everything is fine now.

[sblack13]

ok the rough idle i'm more getting, i don't think its an electrical issue anymore.

sr guru's i need your help.

Idles fine upon startup. Then when at full operating temp the car barely wants to idle.

[sblack13]

maybe clogged injector?? i'm gonna try unplugging em today.

[ROTTEN EGG]

IACV, TPS?

msg length

[brainfood]

Reset your base idle. Pull the iacv plug while the car is running. Turn it off then back on and set idle at 700-800rpm.

[LibertySyclone]

I am having the same problems. Mine just started though. I can get it to start but it takes 10-15 min before it will crank over. I am getting the funny Idle too. I am thinking its grounds but i havent checked them all yet.

With your funny idle, does it jump from 400rpm-900rpm for a while? Mine too only does it at temp.

I am on a stock KA.

If I find anything I will let you know for sure, I had a similar problem in my B13 SE-R. I ended up replacing my grounds.
On my syclone I installed one of those ground kits and it Idled so much better, even with the rough cam.

[Sileighty_85]

Isnt there a coolant temp senor that runs to the ECU that will adj fuel mixture when the engine reaches a certain temp?

I cant remember its been a while since I've worked on an SR

[sblack13]

thanks guys got it fixed, the problem went away.

[Neejay]

thanks guys got it fixed, the problem went away.
Did you do something, or did it just stop?

Tell a solution for future searches :)

[sblack13]

it just kinda stopped.

[LibertySyclone]

this doesnt help me any :(

[kansas240]

With your funny idle, does it jump from 400rpm-900rpm for a while? Mine too only does it at temp.

I am on a stock KA.

I'll bet its blow-by from pcv. Oil and crud gets on the plate and gives it a bad read. When it is cold, the motor runs on a different part of the ecu. It richens the mix, like the choke on a carbed vehicle. Use some carb cleaner - while it is running - in the hole where the pcv connects to the intake. cured mine of the same problem. FWIW

[wannabe-silvia]

in the same predicament... car started fine and everything but one night i put my silvia front end on and it wont start now.. havnt tryed jumping or chnageing battery yet ill let u know if i figure soemthing out..