s13 sr timing/idle erratic + fuel in oil=SCREWED!

[jkgaddis]

BE WARNED: THIS POST IS A BOOK. I WANTED TO BE A CLEAR AS POSSIBLE ON MY PROBLEM AND WHAT I HAVE CHECKED.

well, hopefully not really. here it goes.

problem: idle hunting/ timng bouncing between 15 and 9 degrees.

i have nissan datascan and my laptop set up on my sr20det and im watching my idle and timing bounce around. also, i can feel it, feels like the engine stumbles. and setting the timing is crazy too because that shit jumps around everywheres. also, im getting fuel in my oil. 1/2 quart over a 3 day period.

heres the list of things ive checked:
COMPRESSION: 158 across all 4
IDLE: tried setting this the best i could using both the non consult method and the consult method. bouncing from 850 - 825.
TIMING: impossible to set since im getting crazy readings. bouces from 15 - 9 at idle, warmed up, tps plugged in. i set this using the consult method. im oing to try the manual method, however,, i already took the valve cover off and set it that way like 3 times w/ no joy.
O2 SENSOR: brand new. unplugged and no difference in hunting. rather not replace unless i know im sure of it being bad (all ready dropped alot of cash on trying to fix this)
LEAK TEST: did this to 40psi and fixed all leaks. it made things a little better as you can imagine. but not fixed.
PLUGS: show a little rich (im agine that, a bunch of fuel in my oil and im rich) 6 heat range ngk's (cant remember exact number)
COILS,INJECTORS,AND MAF: tested all components and wiring as per fsm. all good.
MAFS VOLTAGE: 1.62 -1.53 bouncing with idle and timing
KNOCK SENSOR: brand new
CAS: brand new
FUEL RAIL: pulled and turned the fuel pump on and check ed for leaks, none.
FUEL PRESSURE: new aem adjustable, fuel pressure is per fsm (cant remember exact right now)
GROUNDS: all stock are good and added a couple for good measure

possibilities i can think of:
PCV: i dont know if this can cause my problems but, i have the pcv hose plugged and the pcv and ccv vent to open atm and the hole in the intake is plugged up. so no air leak but no pcv, i know it used manifold and intake vacuum to clear out the head and crankcase of blowby. ill fix that today and see if it help but just looking for verification on whether this could be it or not.
O2 SENSOR: maybe it is defective out of box. ill probably replace it if nothing else works.
TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER: i have this theory that maybe this is going bad and letting the timing bounce at idle by letting the cams roll wierd. far off i think but its a theory. any thoughts?

I cant think of anything else. please help.

[jkgaddis]

guys, i need help on this one so bad it hurts. im on spring break and i gotta get this figured out this week or im screwed. also, id like to add that if anyone in the area could come take a look at it *cough* jeff240sx *cough*, i dont have much money but i can hook up some beer and food if that'll do. im pretty desperate at this point.

[jkgaddis]

no body with an idea? well, ive become impatient. i ripped out the harness and im gonna bedo it from scratch. also gonna try a new ecu. nothing else worked. ANYBODY KNOW WHAT MY INJECTOR TIMING SHOULD BE AT IDLE?.... I THINK THIS IS ALSO CALLED PULSE RATE.

[drftwerks]

what year?

msg

[smelly240]

wow - im clueless... i know u should change your oil b4 u spin a rod bearing...

[jkgaddis]

yeah, oil has been changed. its a 91 chassis and a redtop sr.

[georgesal]

iacv? check that out for your idle, also coolant temp sensor, as far as fuel goes im at a loss

[nissanguy13]

did you buy your ecu from a reliable source? I bought an ecu off ebay and when I installed it my engine kept getting flooded with fuel. It was pouring so much fuel that after driving for a while my car would bog down and not go over 25mph and wouldnt go above 3000rpms. I bought a new ecu at a reliable place and problem was solved. Idle jumping around sounds like a really bad vaccume leak, whcih would also cause you to run rich. Also check your cas.

[jkgaddis]

yeah. so, the coolant sensor is brand new. both of them. also, iacv has been removed and cleaned and idle has been set. it might be my TPS i dont know, i got it from a pretty unreliable souce.... HAHA no im kidding. i bought it from georgsal and it rocks. works perfectly and he was awesome to deal with. back to the subject, all the obvious stuff has been checked.

i did get another ecu from a friend that i know works. i will try that tomorrow possibly. right now i have the harness out and im making sure its perfect.

ill keep ya updated

[Realnez]

well looking that your gettin fuel in your oil. Have you checked for a bad injector? or it could very well be a injector O ring i had the same problem with my ka-t and it was a mix of shit. aicv = dirty as hell l + eaker injectors and I never sat the sr injectors in properlly

[jkgaddis]

well, i pulled the rail and turned the fuel pump on and nothing was leaking past the o-rings. so that should cancel that right? unless they are leaking when the fuel pressure is higher under boost. hmmmm.... ima go get a oring kit on monday and install those. my iavc is so fresh and so clean clean. the only other thing i could think was maybe a fuel injector that is popping open and staying open under boost or something. ive done a power balance test a few times and when i drop any of the cylinders is responds correctly. im getting caught up on school work today. but tomorrow i will do some work on it. right now i cant even go get the o-ring cuz my wiring harness is on my living room floor and i have no other vehicle for the weekend. no bueno.

[drftwerks]

you have checked for vac leaks, right?

no i didnt read orig post

[jkgaddis]

at least your honest about it. yeah i checked. fixed em all. boost leak test to 40psi. no leaks.

[jkgaddis]

harness is back together and in but now my tps signal is boucing all over hell and creation. im thinking i have a mean wiring problem. i think im splicing the shielded wire correctly. but fuck.

[jkgaddis]

i know this thread is dead and thats fine but i wanted to post my fix so when others search they can see what fixed it....

fuel in oil: apparently my understanding of the pcv system was wrong. it actually helps scavenge fuel particles that have blown by the ring out of the crankcase gases. i hooked my pcv back up and problem solved.

bouncing timing: fuck using that little black loop nissan provides. i tried using a piece of spark plug wire in between the coil and the plug and it was dead 15 degrees. no bounce what so ever.

for the wiring: i ended up snagging a ka24de harness from the junkyard and then i depinned the grounded wires from the ecu and shortened then to exactly where the plug needed to be, this made interference due to splicing a thing of the past.

all fixed now.

[Z U L8R]

you are supposed to UNPLUG the tps, to get your base timing. here's how i have the easiest time doing it where i'm not fighting the ecu.

WARM THE CAR UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE
turn off the car, and disconnect the negative battery cable off the battery,
hold the brake for 10-30 seconds, disconnect the tps, reconnect the battery's negative,

start the car with all your timing stuff hooked up, -and don't get your timing off the black loop in the back by the firewall, just go on the coil pack's sheathed 3 wires going to cylinder 1-

loosen your CAS's two 12mm nuts then rev it to 2,000 rpm and hold it there for about a minute, let it idle around 800-900rpm and as quickly as you possibly can from holding it at 2k rpm, you need to dial it to 15 degrees btdc, which is the second to last mark on the RIGHT of the pulley, the last mark on the right is 20 degrees.

then once you got it on 15 degrees, tighten the CAS bolts and quickly double check to make sure you didn't move it any. turn off the car and plug back in your tps. good job =]

i can't quote you the fsm but once you set your base timing the ecu does the rest, and it'll adjust the timing in bigger increments at first, and then smaller, it's kind of like a relearn, but it actually adjusts itself to how you drive, so i always drive the shit outta it and that's how i want my ecu to adjust itself lol.

you also want to double check that your tps is adjusted properly. i don't have your car in front of me and i don't know if your datascan can check, but if it can then, see what the coolant temp sensor is telling the ecu. if the motor's at operating temperature but the coolant temp sensor is telling the ecu it's negative 40 degrees....then yeah there's a problem with it. lol

and if ur timing chain were loose you'd hear it slapping the timing cover/valve cover kind of like the ever popular KA oOOOooo BUKAKE!! @@
good luck, keep us posted =]

[Ugly SR]

i know this thread is dead and thats fine but i wanted to post my fix so when others search they can see what fixed it....

fuel in oil: apparently my understanding of the pcv system was wrong. it actually helps scavenge fuel particles that have blown by the ring out of the crankcase gases. i hooked my pcv back up and problem solved.

bouncing timing: fuck using that little black loop nissan provides. i tried using a piece of spark plug wire in between the coil and the plug and it was dead 15 degrees. no bounce what so ever.

for the wiring: i ended up snagging a ka24de harness from the junkyard and then i depinned the grounded wires from the ecu and shortened then to exactly where the plug needed to be, this made interference due to splicing a thing of the past.

all fixed now.


can you be more descriptive on your pcv hook up. I was smelling a little gas in my oil, and am wondering if this too is my problem. Not nearly as much as yours but a little. How, what and where exactly is the pcv(positive crank ventallation?) (I assume?) hooked up? Thanks good to hear you've worked everything out.

[flipdrifter]

have you checked your maf? try a new one or get some brake cleaner and spray off the sensor..

[jkgaddis]

LOL!!!! ok so, thanks to the guys trying to help me but i brought this thread back because ITS FIXED. it wasnt the tps being plugged in, thanks though but i can read an fsm. good advice for others though. also, it was not the maf, and i dont think brake cleaner is a good choice either, GET MAF CLEANER! cheap stuff.

ok, the pcv system, there should be 2 spots on the valve cover with fittings coming out. the one on the passenger side in the back should go to the intake manifold via a hose and some piping. this one also has the pcv valve in it. the other one which is on the drivers side should have a t fitting coming out of it. the rear side of the t should have a hose going to a fitting on the block, the front one should be routed to the intake after the maf but before the turbo. or to a catch can then the intake. and there are a million people out there who will tell you that you dont need to run it that way:jerkit: but i tend to trust engineers more than people on forums. nissan pays them for a reason.

[Z U L8R]

......so Wtf Was Your Cars Problem??

[jkgaddis]

are you serious? read the first post. or the topic...... i fully described the problems and then posted the fixes. im confused as to who this confuses people?

[spitfire7]

i think i know what ur talkin about, but can u post a pic. mine is runnin like super sshhiittt, and i think that might work