Buying a Used Car from a Private Party: Negotiating Tips?

[TurDz]

Hey guys,

I needed some tips on how to bargain for a used car from a private party. For those who have gotten good deals consistently, what is your method? I need some tips since I'm trying to get a car quickly but don't want to seem desperate either.

[Phlip]

The best advice I can give is to have cash in hand or "at arm's length," be ready to offer them less than they were initially willing to accept, but will since you have it right there in front of you.

[SiI40sx]

^^ best method, my last 240 I was able to get for less just because the guy saw the cash in my hand and counted. You can save a couple of hundred bucks depending how much the car is

[TurDz]

So if the car costs 10k I hold 10k in my hand? I'm a little hesistant to do that.

I understand your point of view, but it's also unsafe in my opinion.

[SochBAT]

If the car costs 10K, have 10K.

You hold 9K, your buddy hold 250-500.

"Damn, i've got 9K. too little, huh?"

They'll sympathize, then suggest,
"Would you do it for 250+?"
negotate to 500

Call your buddy to 'come' and get the 500.

DONE

[Dousan_PG]

dont be scared to walk away
dont be there to BUY the car
walk away
tell them you'll call them back when they are willing to sell it at that price

its not like you are buying a ferrari or something for real cheap
you can find another car of the same quality for less
dont be a BUY NOW guy/gal.

[Flipzide]

dont be scared to walk away
dont be there to BUY the car
walk away
tell them you'll call them back when they are willing to sell it at that price


i agree. try not to show too much interest. try to point out as many negatives as possible too as long as its reasonable.

having cash on hand may also be a good thing too as previously stated. worked for me.

[sky53line]

Yeah cash in hand always helps. My last S14 that I bought, the guy originally wanted 1900. I told him I had cash and he bumped it down to 1300. You cant beat 1300 for a running S14.

[Farzam]

Offer low.
Point out bad things.
Don't get buddy buddy.
Be courteous.
Don't make in impulse buy EVER.
I've driven 3 hours to see a car that wasn't half as good as it was supposed to be.
Just move on.
Leave and call back a half hour later and try and work something out.
Then go in person and work it.
Zip it down and reverse it.

If the car is worth it to you, just do it.
Money grows on trees.

[SochBAT]

Going as a pimp helps too.

http://www.trashfiction.co.uk/fantasy_island.jpg

['90RPS13]

Haha, like everyone else says if its reasonable price, bring cash. I paid $500 cash for a running '91 hatch a few months ago. Pointed out rust, insanely loud rattle under the valve cover (guide broke) and just a few other things. He was originally asking $1000 and after 2hrs of just talking and bullshitting, whipped out $500 and he bit. Feel the person out, sometimes it helps to be buddy buddy sometimes it doesnt.

[TurDz]

Well, compared to of your drama, I got the car quick. Neogiated for about 1 minute, and got the car $100 over what I offered. Great guy that I dealt with, I lucked out and found a very nice seller.

Thanks for all the good advice everyone.

[DJPimpFlex]

Ive had this for a while, long read but well worth it.

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Trade-in value is usually the price that GOOD cars sell for at dealer's auctions. Trade-in is usually considered to be the market "wholesale" price of a clean, average mileage car.

This was a real eye-opener to me when I learned this pricing strategy. It was a greater shock when I found that this same car would be priced on the used car lot at a price of somewhere between $9,5000 and $10,500. This gives the dealer a spread to GIVE the buyer a lower price; a better deal! the general rule of thumb is buy between loan value and average trade-in If you want to verify this for your area, here's a way to do it. It will be fun, too. Take your personal car and look it up in the N.A.D.A. book. You can find the N.A.D.A. books in the reference section of your public library. They usually keep them behind the desk. You'll have to ask the librarian for it. After you find the three figures for your car, do two things. First, shop for your car on the local lots. Second, go to a few lots and ask to talk to the used car manager (He buys the cars for the lot. Large dealers may have a separate buyer.). Tell him you need to sell your car quickly and you'd like an offer for it. Compare these prices with the N.A.D.A. prices for your car.You don't have the time to go look at every car. Let's cover how you "qualify" your prospects when you find a car advertised. Use the following questions to help decide which ones to go after!

Call and say, " I'm calling about the car in the newspaper ". If he asks, "Which one?", that's a tip he has multiple cars. He is either a dealer or selling cars from home.

Ask the seller to describe the car. Listen! Don't interrupt. Let the seller tell you all.


Ask the mileage.


Ask why he is selling the car. You may receive a clue here if the price is negotiable.


Have the seller describe the mechanical condition. Ask what repairs have been made recently. Ask what needs to done. Here are some questions you should be ready to ask.

ENGINE: Are there any mechanical problems with the engine? Any unusual engine noises? How much oil does it use? Does it overheat?


TRANSMISSION: Are there any problems with the transmission? Is it noisy? Smooth operating?


BODY: Is there any body damage? Any rust? What is the condition of the paint? Has the car been wrecked?


BRAKES: Are the brakes in good condition? When was the last brake job done? Do they screech, pull or fade?The most important thing besides the price is the condition of the car. You

don't have to be a mechanic to evaluate a car. The next few steps will guide you through the process of deciding whether a car will be a winner.

When you arrive at the owners' home, again ask if there is anything mechanically wrong. Listen carefully to the answers. Use your intuition. Always assume the seller is not telling you the complete truth. Be careful if he tells you of a problem and then tries to make excuses for it or plays down it down.

No matter what the owner's answer to the previous question, again go through the list of possible trouble areas.


A. ENGINE

B. TRANSMISSION

C. BRAKES

D. BODY

If the owner satisfactorily answers the questions begin an inspection of the vehicle. You now begin an important part of your business. If you purchase the car, you do not want to put any money into repairs. If you need to, then you must have a good idea of the problems, so you can subtract the costs from your offer. Remember, the car should be a nice, pleasant vehicle that requires only cosmetic work.

Before you begin the inspection verify the owner has a clear title. NEVER, NEVER buy a car that does not have a clear title. Ask to see the title, and verify the owner's name and vehicle registration number. Ask the seller for identification to match the title ownership. This may seem a little extreme but explain to the owner why you are doing this. Tell him people do try to sell stolen cars to unsuspecting individuals. If there is any reason the owner gives for not having a title, politely excuse yourself and tell him to call you when the title is clear. A car should average 12,000 miles a year. Anything substantially more or less can mean a problem When a car reaches 100,000 or more miles, theres a need for a thorough inspection . The potential for major problems is so great most buyers will be afraid of the car.When a car reaches 100,000 or more miles, the need for a thorough inspection is nil. The potential for major problems is so great most buyers will be afraid of the car.
UNDER 20,000 MILES

A car with this few miles has either no problems or a lot of problems. Be

careful, it could be a lemon! It may have had the odometer rolled back. But buyer, you beware! Why is the owner selling a low mileage car?

20,000 to 30,000 MILES

Brakes and tires may be going at this mileage. Check them. Look for unusual wear of the tires. Starters, alternators and electrical operated systems may begin failing.

30,000 to 40,000 MILES

The suspension system is beginning to weaken in this middle mileage car. Use the road test to check it. Does it shimmy; pull to one side? Listen for transmission noise and clunk in the universal joints when starting up or shifting gears. When was the last front end alignment done? Check the tires for abnormal wear indicating a suspension problem.

40,000 to 50,000 MILES

Transmissions, wheel bearings, universal joints, belts, hoses, brakes, tires and power options are potentially in trouble. Accelerate the engine. Look for smoke. Black smokes means a tune-up or valve job. Blue smoke means oil is being burned in the cylinders. Don't buy the car. It’s got problems too big for you to have to fix
OVER 50,000 MILES

Check all the previous items carefully. Pay particular attention to oil burning and any transmission or universal joint noise.Walk around the car. Never, never, never inspect a car at night or under

artificial lights. A beauty at night under soft lights can become a dog the next day in the bright sunlight. One of the things the outside inspection will show is if the car has been in an accident. Another is the presence of rust; obvious or hidden.

Here is a 10-point inspection list:

GLASS

Is the glass broken or cracked? Does the car have a current vehicle inspection? Many states now require a current inspection sticker before a car title can be transferred or the car sold. Check your state laws.

LIGHTS

Try all the lights, including brake and turn signals. Do the turn signals self-cancel after turning?

RUST

Inspect carefully. Use your small magnet. Check rocker panels, wheel wells, fenders and doors for plastic filler. Use a small cloth under the magnet so you won't scratch the paint surface. Filler will be hiding rust that will pop out later! Get down and look under the car. See any rust? Look for weld marks on the frame because of major accident damage. While your down there, look for fluid leaks on the car and on the ground.


Don't buy a car with rust problems.PAINT

Check to see if the car is repainted. You can tell by lifting the molding edge on the windshield right at the paint line. Also there may be paint over-spray in the engine compartment or on the firewall. A new paint job may be hiding accident repair damage or rust! Watch out for it! If you find no problems, the new paint job is a big plus! If the paint is only faded, your detail shop can buff it out to a like-new look.

Look for blisters in the paint on the rocker panels, on the bottoms of the doors and around the door and window frames. These are usually severe rust problems surfacing under the paint. Sometimes you can pop these blisters with a fingernail and see the rust.


DOOR, HOOD and TRUNK


Do they all work? Do they all lock? Are they all in alignment with the body? Open each door and gently push it shut. Don't slam it. If it hits and bounces off the latch, it is misaligned. This could mean frame damage. Be alert for frame welds when checking under the car.

Look in the trunk. Check under the mat for rust. Is there a spare tire, lug wrench and jack? Is the spare tire the right size for the car. Is it flat? Does the lug wrench fit the lugs? While you're in the rear of car, check for signs of a trailer hitch, actual or removed. Towing heavy loads can devastate an engine and transmission.

TAIL PIPE

Check the deposit on the inside with your finger. It should be a white or gray residue. Black and sooty may mean a tune-up. Black and gummy means the car is burning oil! Is the muffler and catalytic converter intact?

TIRES

Are they ok? Do they show any abnormal wear because of suspension or alignment problems? Again, is there a spare?

SHOCKS

Bounce each corner up and down 4 or 5 times. The car should only bounce once after you stop. Check to see if any of the shocks are leaking.

ALIGNMENT

Park the car on a flat level surface. Move away about 30 feet from the car. Check the car. Does it set level? Squat down and look. Are the tires in line with each other?



WHEELS

Grab hold of the top of the front wheels. Try to pull and push them to see if they wobble. Wheel bearings or ball joints may be bad if they do.

GAS TANK

If the car uses unleaded fuel only, is the retainer for the smaller pump nozzles still in the filler pipe? With older cars some owners punched them out to use cheaper leaded gasoline. This destroys the catalytic converter and the car will fail state inspection.

INTERIOR

The inside inspection of the car can tell you how well the car was taken care of. If the interior is dirty and neglected, the owner probably treated the mechanical needs the same. A car that has been maintained will be worth more.

A little dirt doesn't hurt. Look beneath the dirt and grime and check the basic physical condition. Always see if you can turn a liability into an asset. You are going to make it spick and span before the next buyer sees it.

Here is a 7-point inspection list for the interior:

SEATS

Sit in each one. Are they lumpy or have broken springs? Any tears or rips? Is the back seat worn (taxicab)? Do they slide back and forth easily?

MATS

Look under the mats and carpets for rust. Do the pedals reflect equivalent wear for the mileage on the odometer?

DOORS

Check the rubber molding around the doors. Look for abnormal wear on the driver's armrest. Does the wear match the odometer miles?

SMELL

Is it musty smelling or strongly deodorized to cover smells? Musty smells can mean leaks and rust or worse, a car that has been flooded. Note: Smokers' cars are difficult to resell. It's almost impossible to deodorize the smoke smell from a car. I don't recommend you purchase smoker's cars.

ODOMETER

What is the mileage? Does it meet your standards for the age of the vehicle? If it is high mileage, were they highway or city miles? Highway miles are half the wear and tear of stop and go city travel.

In 1989, a federal law requires the odometer reading be entered on the title in all states. In 1972, a federal law made it illegal to change, disconnect or tamper with the odometer. It still happens! Check the dashboard for scratch marks, missing screws or other indications. Are all the numbers on the odometer lined up? Rolling back the odometer sometimes causes misaligned numbers. INSTRUMENT PANEL

Do all the gauges, lights and controls work? Horn? Radio? Air conditioning? Heater? Do all the idiot lights come on when you turn the key? If not, they may be disconnected to cover up a problem. Do they go out when you start the engine? Is it a rat's nest under the dashboard? Is there any loose or hanging wiring? Why?

WINDOWS

Do they ALL operate smoothly?

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

RADIATOR

Look into the radiator. Is there an oil film on top of the water? If there is, it



indicates oil is leaking into the cooling system. This means a cracked block. If the water is rusty, the radiator may need replacing soon. Check inside the filler neck with your finger. Sludge or gunk means a "stop-leak" has been used to plug holes in the system.

OIL

Oil that is murky brown, gray or bubbly has water in it. This is a sure indication of a cracked block. Grit or gum in the oil means it hasn't been changed often. The owner may not have properly maintained the engine. Ask how often he changed the oil. Only believe what he says if there are receipts or spare filters and oil in the garage.

Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running. If smoke is seen coming from the hole, the piston rings are worn and allowing gasses from the cylinders to escape. This is called blow-by and is an indication of a worn engine.

TRANSMISSION FLUID

Check it. Low means there is a leak. Should be a red color. Brown means there has been no maintenance done on the transmission. Smell the fluid. If it smells burned, it means the transmission has lots of wear. Pieces of metal in the fluid show the gears are being ground off. Stay away from any transmission problems.

ENGINE

Check for oil leaks. Remove the filler cap and feel for sludge or grit in the valve cover. If the engine has been cleaned, you won't see oil leaks. If the engine has been cleaned, extend your test drive to 30-45 minutes with some high speed highway driving. Look for leaks again after the test drive.

Pull one spark plug and check it. Auto repair manuals in your public library will show you how to diagnose the plug. To be a real pro, learn how to do a compression check on engines. It's not hard; can be done easily at the seller's house. The repair manuals like Chilton's show you how. Check them out from your public library or purchase one from your local auto parts store.

Are the pollution control devices intact? Some areas of the country (California) require the seller to provide a smog certificate. If the devices are not present, you may be in for several hundreds of dollars in repairs before you can sell the car! Find and

understand your state laws regarding air quality control devices in the sale and purchase of cars.

BELTS

Are the belts frayed, cracked or loose? Squeeze the water hoses. Are they soft and supple or hardened and cracked?

TEST DRIVE

Now it's time to see how the car "feels".T If it doesn’t feel right to you then pass. Recently I drove a car that didn’t "feel" right to me. I asked the owner to let me have it checked out at a local garage. A $1100 estimate to fix all the "little" items I found.

Start the engine. Get out. Open the hood. Listen to the engine. Check out any unusual noises. Did the car start easily? Does it idle smoothly. Be concerned about a rough idle. It could mean anything from a simple tune-up to a major engine overhaul.

Drive the car on a variety of road conditions. This should include a bumpy road, freeway driving, city driving and hills. Drive the car with the window down. You want to "hear" the car.

The following 7-point checklist will help you decide on the car.

STEERING

Look out the window. Does the tire turn at the same time you turn the steering wheel? If it doesn't turn in the first 2 inches of steering wheel movement, you may have major suspension problems. On power steering, turn and lock the wheels in both directions. There should be no screeches or bouncing.



EXHAUST

As you're driving, check the exhaust in the rear view mirror. Blue smoke means burning oil. Don't buy! Black smoke means it may need a tune up. White smoke when starting is only water vapor in the exhaust pipe. White smoke during driving means water in the cylinders!

BRAKES

Check to see if there is at least 2 inches between the pedal and floor when you push it down as far as you can. Do the brakes screech, pull or fade when applied? Make a quick stop. Does the car pull or dip to one side? If it does, it could mean brake and/or suspension trouble.

Check the parking brake on a hill. Does it hold? If not, the rear brakes may be worn out or the hand brake needs adjusting. Don't pass up a good car for brake problems. They are easily fixed. Just deduct the cost from your offer.

ALIGNMENT

Does the car track straight when you let go of the wheel? Drive the car up to speeds of 60 mph to see if there are any vibrations.

ENGINE

Are there any unusual noises? Pinging or tapping? Does it idle smoothly? Was it easy to start? Any acceleration hesitation? If there appears to be an engine problem, don't buy until you have a mechanic check it out. Ask the owner if he'll split the cost of the check-out.

TRANSMISSION

Move the transmission from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake. You should hear nothing or a soft thump. A clunk means problems. Don't buy! Drive the car in reverse for at least 200 feet to check its operation. The transmission should shift smoothly and operate with no noise. Does it balk or jerk during shifting? If it does, don't buy the car.

LEAKS

Put the car through a self-service car wash to check for water leaks.

LOOKING UNDERNEATH

While on the test drive, stop at a service station and offer a few bucks to put the car up on a lift. (If you can find a service station anymore!) Looking at the bottom will give you a different prospective about the car. Check the following.


Engine/transmission leaks

Brake line leaks

Shock absorber leaks

Accident damage repair

Check fender wells for creases or repairs

Frame welds

Rocker panel rust

TIME

Drive the car for at least 10 - 15 miles (45 minutes). At the end of the test drive, leave the engine running, raise the hood and check the engine compartment again. Look, listen and smell for anything unusual or different: noise, smoke, oil leaks, burning smell, squeaks, pinging, any problems? If so, investigate.

[C. Senor]

^ you cant get any better than that, and just like everyone else said have cash and be prepared to spend some time, after like 2.5 hours the guy dropped the price 700 bucks, and i got my coupe..helps if you have a friend that's a mechanic to check it out.