Help!!! Bleeding Clutch

[WhiteS13]

I've gone through 5 bottles of Brake Fluid, and the darn pedal still won't come up.  Can anyone enlighten me with some help here?  I'm using a vacuum pump, but without satisfactory results.

Both master and slave cylinders are new, and there's no leak evident in the lines.  I've even tried bleeding that box lower from the slave cylinder.

Any help would be appreciated people.  Thanks in advance.

[91CRXsiR]

that happened to me recently, and i just stuck my left foot under the pedal and pulled it out and its fine now.

kinda silly, but its worth a shot if you haven't already tried it.

[WhiteS13]

Thanks for the reply 91CRXsiR.

We've tried manually pumping the clutch pedal by hand, but it still won't pop back up.  Even tried re-adjusting the master cylinder rod to max/mid/low, but still no results.

Right now, the cars sitting in the garage on jackstands because I can't get it into gear.

[chickenmanq]

Is your slave cylinder valve still open?  Did you get all the air out of the system?

You're bled brakes and clutches before right?

[WhiteS13]

I've bleed the brakes and clutch about 20 times just lastyear with my Honda (before and after trackdays). I'm pretty anal with servicing my cars, and like the fluids clean at all times.  I don't understand why it's so difficult with the 240?

Even tried pumping the system manually - doesn't help.

(Edited by WhiteS13 at 4:45 am on Jan. 28, 2002)

[chickenmanq]

Hey, I just had an idea!  Are you doing the pedal with the key turned to the on position?  I'll betcha that's it.  Or you have a leak in your slave cylinder.  Anyway, as long as you have all the air out of the system, just start it up and see if the pedal regains firmness.

[WhiteS13]

What would happen when the key is in the ignition?  Is this neccessary to bleed the CLUTCH?  Please give me some details because it's starting to bother me now... I don't have a car to drive!

I replaced both master and slave cylinders.

[chickenmanq]

When the key is turned on, all your fuel shit turns on, and your engine is ready to go even though it's not running.  Somewhere in there, it turns stuff on, and probably has something to do with your pedal not returning.  A lot of times, you can't adjust things without sticking the key in the ignition.  You know, if you pump the pedal when the key is off, and it gets all hard, then when you turn it on, the pedal sinks a bit and regains normal pressure.  There is something that adjusts hydraulic pressure when the car is on.  I don't know why it works that way, but I'd be that's it.

[camppain]

your clutch is not vacuum like your brake line so it wont return when your bleeding it if thats what your reffering to.

or do you mean after you pump the pedal up and down maually and blled it close the bleeders the pedal will just sink back to the floor after depressing it?

also the key on has nothing to do with the hydro lines on the clutch its not vacuum nor power assisted. like a fuel or brake line

[chickenmanq]

I would still try turning on the key, although I think camppain is right.  If not, you must have a leak in your clutch line somewhere.  Pump it a whole bunch, and see if any fluid comes out or the fluid in the reservoir dwindles.

[WhiteS13]

Thanks for all the input guys.  I really appreciate your help here.  

I tried readjusting the engagment point.  It's popping up now, but doesn't feel very good, and the clutch slips like mad.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna rip off the tranny and replace the clutch fork. &nbsp;It seems kinda sticky, and doesn't want to return freely. &nbsp;Might as well swap in a new TO bearing since I got nothing better to do with my time anyways. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

Lets hope this will fix it because I'm all out of ideas.

[chickenmanq]

You're absolutely positive it's not the slave cylinder, right? &nbsp;Those are easy as #### to replace or rebuild.

[camppain]

one thing you mos def need to make sure isTHAT THE BUSHING IS STILL IN PLACE ON YOUR CLUTCH!

if not when you drive it will feel like you still need to bleed your clutch

a simple 2.00 bushing will cause your clutchpedal not to disengage properly thus give you that effect.

[WhiteS13]

Thanks for the wonderful responses people.

Camppain, the busing is stuck inside #### tight, and I can't manage to pull it out. &nbsp;I assumed the last owner never replaced it before. &nbsp;Do you have any tips on how to remove this piece?

Chickenmanq, I'm sure it's not the slave. &nbsp;I have 3 of them here, and the only one that's bad is the original one I replaced.

[camppain]

if its there then it shouldnt be no problem unless it seems worn. if so or to be on the safe side just try prying it with a flathead screwdriver or something of that nature.

i keep forgeting but we have a bulletin at work for proper bleeding for the 240 if i have it here i will try n scan it if not i will print it manana if i remeber to help you aout a lil bit

[WhiteS13]

camppain, thanks so much for your efforts. &nbsp;I've finally got the dang thing working.

Stupid idiots at Nissan gave me a the wrong slave cylinder. &nbsp;The release pin was too long (about 3mm) causing it to pop off the clutch fork, and causing it to stick and make my clutch slip like a madman. &nbsp;I cleaned off the old one, and used that instead.

After taking the transmission off 2 times, and bleeding the hydraulic about 5 times, I've managed to get all the air out of the system now. &nbsp;Machined the flywheel because there were so many hotspots, and slowly running in the clutch.

Thanks again for all your help guys. &nbsp;Couldn't have done it without your advice!

[camppain]

wow!

were the slave cylinders identical to each other as far as looks? thats bad that they gave the wrong p[art and that you actua;ly took off the trans &nbsp;also!

ouch

glad to hear all is well

[WhiteS13]

The cylinders were identicle - all except for the release pin.