KADE Acceleration probs

[Dream240]

Okay, I did some searching but some of the guys with similar problems nevr got answers or didn't finish the thread.

Here's my problem:
While driving with the engine warmed up, when it's in gear at speeds below 2500 rpms (in any gear) when you step on the gas the car kicks! It only happens in this RPM range and only when I completely release the gas pedal then reapply. It also has a wierd surge/kick when you feather the gas for the first 3 cm or so, I get no throttle response then bam! kick!
And as I push the gas pedal 1 cm at a time, when the rpms get to around 1800-1900, with no further gas pedal, the cars jumps ahead and the rpms take off all the way to 2500-2750! This happens with no more gas pedal pressure! Needless to say it's really wierd.

I recently replaced the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body up really good, new throttle gasket, adjusted the accelerator cable to about 2cm of freeplay.
I also just tested the TPS last night and I got:
1.87v @ closed throttle
10.57v @ fully open throttle
The resistance for the TPS adjustment is at 6.5 kOHMs, so that's within range.
I have also recently replaced the coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensor, new cat. and I have no codes.

I'm thinking that the kicking might be coming from my drivetrain. Maybe a bad carrier bearing in my driveshaft? I get a clunking coming from my rear end when I put the car in gear at a stand still. Or maybe the clutch is slipping? But wouldn't that give you jumping RPMs?

As far as the accelerator/RPMs jumping, could this be caused by a faulty IACV? I have yet to clean it, and the car is idling at 800-850. It seems like the car is having trouble going from idle speed to throttle speed. Also as for this morning the car decided to start idling rough. The only thing I did last night was adjust my idle screw out about 2 full turns from all the way in (where I've had it since the TPS install).

Anyone got some ideas, tips?

[MELLO*SOS]

You probably already checked, but are there any ECU Codes?

[Dream240]

Sorry, edited first post...... yeah I checked, no codes.

[cotbu]

TPS wiring or TPS is Fubar
1.87v closed 10.57v WOT not good... should be a 5 volt power source just like the mafs.
That power source need to be changed, and also check the power source of your MAFS aswell.

Who did the wiring?
If it ain't broke..... break it then fix it!!!
Scrap Iron

[Dream240]

TPS wiring or TPS is Fubar
1.87v closed 10.57v WOT not good... should be a 5 volt power source just like the mafs.
That power source need to be changed, and also check the power source of your MAFS aswell.

Who did the wiring?
If it ain't broke..... break it then fix it!!!
Scrap Iron

WTF?

Maybe i'm looking at the wrong year FSM? The one I just looked up is for the 93-94, and it coincides with your info. But the one I used last night had completely different info!! I'll have to re-check the info I've got. Thanks.

EDIT:
Okay I found the page I used last night, it's EF&EC page 163, the steps are for checking resistance with the car off. It's considered normal when readings are approx. 2 kohms (fully released) and approx 10 kohms (fully depressed).
The part you're talking about starts on page 121. I have yet to use that method. Thought I was doing it right based on my readings for the other test. I'll give it a try tonight.
Thanks.

[cotbu]

If the resistance checks out good, then it's probably the wiring...just a guess.
Keep us posted!

[Dream240]

Yeah that's what I was thinking maybe a bad ground? I've heard of some guys having a problem with old grounds coming loose or corroding. I'll let you know thanks for the help.

[HalveBlue]

Check all your grounds. Disconnect them and make sure the ground attaches to bare metal. Use a metal brush to scrap off any rust or paint or other gunk.

The FSM outlines how to check for faulty wiring for most sensors. Basically you're going to check for resistance between certain spots on the sensor and that particular sensors' ground. Can be a pain in the ass.

Good Luck!

[ls180sx]

when you say you can feel it, does it feel like it's coming from the engine or from right under you. could be a drivetrain issue, what kind of rear end do you have? IF you have a clutch type lsd a bad angle of the drivetrain can cause it lock when it shouldn't wich can feel like a surge in power. Maybe caused by bad, u joint, tranny mount, etc..

but i'm probably wrong

[Dream240]

Okay this will help me diagnose the accelerating problem, but what do you guys think about my theory on the kicking?

It's seems to be drivetrain related. Also since the last manual car I owned was an 86' accord with no mods, I've never had to diagnose clutch chatter. What does it feel like? The clutch I put in is a street stage 1 clutch, very easy pedal with no problems missing gears.
Has anyone elase ever experienced a problem with the carrier bearing causing this? Or maybe the driveaxles have developed too much freeplay?

Thanks for the input guys.

EDIT: just read the last post, I have a stock open diff, stock driveshaft + axles. All mounts are Nismo and I just checked the tranny mount recently. Anyone think it could be bad subframe bushings? I DO get alot of real end slop when I accelerate through bumpy areas.

[ls180sx]

put some aluminum subframe bushings in to see if it helps at all. I don't realy think it's your clutch becasue a stage 1 wouldn't be very aggressive

[Dream240]

UPDATE:

Okay, i did a real big tear down of the intake system this past weekend. I found that my swirl control valve is gone. Basically the butterflys don't respond to vaccum anymore. So that answers my question about the kicking during acceleration. I also used about 2 1/2 cans of throttle body cleaner on the upper intake plenum, IACV, AAV, and support lines, and removed about 1/16" of carbon buildup off everything. The butterflys were completely covered in gunk. Gross.

The problem I'm having now is that the dealership is saying that you can't buy the part separate, and even still it's discontinued. I'm thinking since I can't buy it separate that I'm gonna have to buy an entire new upper intake plenum that will have it attached.....freakin stupid.

Upon re-assembly, my car pulls much, much harder than before. And after cleaning the IACV + AAV, the idle is a bit smoother, still has a slight jump about every 5-7 seconds, but it's only noticeable through the exhaust note, not the RPM guage. Overall it drives ALOT better!! The other problem I found was that some of the intake mani bolts were coming loose!! And the gasket had a crack in it.

I also finally pulled the front cover off and removed the other timing chain guide and replaced the tensioner....NO MORE RATTLE!!!!! :)

Thanks guys for your input... my car is finally chirping 2nd!! 3rd here I come!! :)