Question about upgrading parts on my sr20

[rocksteady_racer]

Engine Management: Any body use Megasquirt? Is it worth the money it is. I know it's rAther cheap but I've seen the software and I'm not sure if I want it based on the software design. I will have a larger turbo and I rather not have a piggy back unit. So any other suggestions on engine management units?

Has anyone ever installed the MAF on the throttle body side? I heard it prevents stalling when the bov goes off. Any body ever done this or is this a bad idea on an sr20. One of my buddies has his setup like this on hius turbo charged hyundai accent.

What type of BOV should I run an HKS SSQV or some sort of Greddy equivalent, I'm planning on 500 hp at one point but in the beginning it will only be pushing stock boost. Also any recommendations on external wastegates?

Intakes: Cone or sponge? Is the greddy airinx worth the money?

Exhaust: I'm thinking of the RSR Mag because of it's quiet design. Any other similiar exhausts that might be cheaper but just as quiet?

Is the T28 a direct bolt on besides adjusting the computer and timing? Like you don't need a new exhaust manifold or anything right from the stock T25?

Anyone have any suggestions on an LSD I plan on using either a Nismo 2-way or KAAZ 2-way LSD. I am going to be using it most for drifting so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Apexi Rev/Speed meter: Is it necessary to adjust the stock rev limiter and speed limiter or can my stand alone handle all that.

Also 6 puck clutch and light weight flywheel from JGY or a JWT Z33 clutch and lightweight flywheel. Suggestions would be greatly appreciation.

As I said before I plan on running the stock boost for about a month before I boost it up unless I happen to run in to a T28 then it be a little bit more powerful. My final power goal is between 350 and 500 hp. So I'm trying to plan for that now so I Have enough room for expansion.

Thanks for answering all my questions. I'll post pics on my website and movies when I get it finished. I'll be back from Iraq on June 22 so I'll be back in the phila area which is when I'll be finishing the project. If you guys wanna hang out just drop me a line. By the way I'm running a S13 Redtop.

[Matt Cramer]

There's a couple people using Megasquirt with either an Autronic trigger disk or a Ford EDIS ignition - haven't seen it used with the stock trigger wheel, and I'm not sure this is possible yet. So it's possible, just takes some work.

[steve shadows]

haltech plug and play works with everything (all stock sensors), contact RPSport.net or SpeedMachinePerformance to get one.

if thats not an option (which it should be if your considering mega squirt) go with a tuned rom by Enthalpy" (scott avoy) or Hybridynamics.

[MegasquirtCA]

Engine Management: Any body use Megasquirt? Is it worth the money it is. I know it's rAther cheap but I've seen the software and I'm not sure if I want it based on the software design. I will have a larger turbo and I rather not have a piggy back unit. So any other suggestions on engine management units?


Whats wrong with the software, to me its perfect, extremly easy to use, not to mention you get 8 gauges instantly and you can change them out from another 60 options of gauges.

We made a base map, got the car street tuned within a hour of finishing the install and been daily driving it for 6 months with no problems whats so ever. The only problems I had were mechanical like turbo blowing :ghey:

[harlockssx]

Engine Management: Any body use Megasquirt? Is it worth the money it is. I know it's rAther cheap but I've seen the software and I'm not sure if I want it based on the software design. I will have a larger turbo and I rather not have a piggy back unit. So any other suggestions on engine management units?

Has anyone ever installed the MAF on the throttle body side? I heard it prevents stalling when the bov goes off. Any body ever done this or is this a bad idea on an sr20. One of my buddies has his setup like this on hius turbo charged hyundai accent.

What type of BOV should I run an HKS SSQV or some sort of Greddy equivalent, I'm planning on 500 hp at one point but in the beginning it will only be pushing stock boost. Also any recommendations on external wastegates?

Intakes: Cone or sponge? Is the greddy airinx worth the money?

Exhaust: I'm thinking of the RSR Mag because of it's quiet design. Any other similiar exhausts that might be cheaper but just as quiet?

Is the T28 a direct bolt on besides adjusting the computer and timing? Like you don't need a new exhaust manifold or anything right from the stock T25?

Anyone have any suggestions on an LSD I plan on using either a Nismo 2-way or KAAZ 2-way LSD. I am going to be using it most for drifting so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Apexi Rev/Speed meter: Is it necessary to adjust the stock rev limiter and speed limiter or can my stand alone handle all that.

Also 6 puck clutch and light weight flywheel from JGY or a JWT Z33 clutch and lightweight flywheel. Suggestions would be greatly appreciation.

As I said before I plan on running the stock boost for about a month before I boost it up unless I happen to run in to a T28 then it be a little bit more powerful. My final power goal is between 350 and 500 hp. So I'm trying to plan for that now so I Have enough room for expansion.

Thanks for answering all my questions. I'll post pics on my website and movies when I get it finished. I'll be back from Iraq on June 22 so I'll be back in the phila area which is when I'll be finishing the project. If you guys wanna hang out just drop me a line. By the way I'm running a S13 Redtop.

I use a blowthrough setup z32 mafs, inside my piping coming out of my intercooler. Mounting it there, my mafs "duty cycle" (for lack of a better term, the % it uses at full boost) dropped significantly, which means that having it mounted that way will support more HP than draw through. It was also a lot easier to tune & get rid of driveability issues I had previously.

I AVOID HKS BOVs like the plague! I've been through two of them in less than a year on mostly stock setups. I replace my last one with a Blitz Supersound, which held up great for 3 years until I decided to make some serious power & upgraded to a Greddy Type R. I don't like the Type RS, but the type S is good on a mostly bolt-on SR. The Apexi ones are good too. HKS are garbage. Most of them have plastic internals which age prematurely from the high temp of the turbocharged air, crack & leak...

My experience with most RSR exhaust is that they're not quiet at all! I don't know if the type you want is or isn't though. I had one of the straight through design ones with no resonator & it was LOUD! Went to an HKS system I got for cheap & it was much quieter. Flowed just as good with larger piping than the RSR (3.5" VS. 3").

Intakes, sponge flow more but let more crap into your engine. They also don't last very long, but are usually cheap to replace.

The T28 has a few little differences, depending on which one you use. It will bolt to the stock manifold & turbo outlet pipe, but may need some additional parts to mate up with your intake and intercooler piping.

I know you feel the need for speed, but I recommend not using a rev/speed cut unless it's part of a tuned ECU or standalone. There's a lot more things that can go wrong when your boosting a stock motor high on stock engine management...

This is what I would do, to keep you from having to buy the same parts twice when you upgrade.

Tuned ECU or Engine management (for the exact combo you will use)

740cc injectors (cost the same as 550s usually & will give you room to grow if you want more power, like over 400), adj. FPR, Walbro 255lph pump.

Z32 mafs, decent intake setup, FMIC, Greddy or Apexi BOV

2871R turbo (.64 AR for response).

Optional parts: better manifold, Greddy intake manifold, cams & cam gears, 1.2mm HG & head studs.

Should be good for ~320 rwhp with the stock cams & intake...~375 if you do it all. Whatever you use for standalone (if you go that route), find a GOOD tuner who will set it up right. Doing it yourself is a good learning experience, however you take the chance on doing things wrong & killing your motor on a bad tune...

Good Luck!

[redsuns3838]

I have heard bad reviews of the following BOVs: Apex, Blitz (I own one and its crap) and Greddy. Ive heard pretty good reviews of HKS SSQV but thats if you can put up with the sound of lazer beams constantly. Personally If your going to push high numbers like say 400whp, I would go with a SARD racing BOV. Not the R2D2 but the racing BOV which is supposed to accomodate high HP cars. Or possibly ARC. their products are usually really good quality. Ive yet to hear bad reviews about Sard, and ARC (no big suprise here, they cost around 300 bucks each so most of the community wont fork up the cash, but I always figure you get what you pay for)

Intake- I really dont think it makes that much of a difference. I have an ARC induction box but I got it dirt cheap. I would go with HKS, or apex, if I hadnt gotten sucha deal on the ARC one.

Sorry Im horrible with computers, and have never actually thought about running a quiet exhaust ; ) But Id say if you want cheaper, you could try out a muffler shop. and get a custom exhaust. Although (im assuming RSR is around 5-600) thats pretty average for a exhaust.

anyways, heres a response to your LSD question:

heres a good link to a recent LSD thread where I wrote a short little blurb about info ive gathered from various ppl and their opinions/experiences. 2way LSD threads are a dime a dozen on zilvia, just do advanced search for the word KAAZ in "chat" only section and you'll get a ton of threads. but heres one newer one:

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1230483#post1230483

Heres what I wrote:

in order of lockup strength: Tomei, KAAZ, Nismo.
Nismo is usually quieter (most ppl say it barely clunks) and the lockup is not as harsh as the tomei and kaaz. Probably the best if you daily drive and track occasionally.

Kaaz probably has the best customer support since they have a kaaz shop in orange county (garden grove).

Tomei is esentially made at the KAAZ factory as well, but it has larger clutch plates resulting in a harsher lock-up from what Ive heard.
Both KAAZ and Tomei units are known to be pretty damn clunky.

Nismo can also use synthetic diff fluid which means every 5000mile fluid changes and not 3000 like kaaz and tomei (they cant use synthetic)

COST: Your going to pay a grand no matter what. figure a LSD is like 800. Install is usually around 150 at any shop. and you need a second can of LSD fluid for after break-in if you get a KAAZ or Tomei which is another 50 bucks. or 25 for a nismo. The nismo is a little cheaper but you sacrafice performance maybe a little bit.

Although no matter what LSD ppl use, you rarely hear about they breaking (unless its from improper installation or not following break-in procedures)
The Nismo one only has like 4 clutch plates while tomei and kaaz have something like 3-4 times as many.

Note: Im talking about the nismo regular 2 way, not the nismo GT pro, which is around 1300 dollars or so and not stocked by many places. (but ive heard that LSD is pretty awesome)

Anyways take it with a grain of salt, Im just giving you info ive deduced from my own research. Finally ending up with me going with a Tomei only because I saved 100 bux vs the KAAZ. nismo was never an option for me since its got too few clutch plates for my liking. but Im still waiting to install my 2way.