safe boost level?

[issac]

I have a redtop with s15 turbo, greddy fmic, 3inch turboback exhaust, ras, greddy profec b-spec II, everything else stock s13. My question is how much psi can I run with this setup safely? any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance.:confused:

[DrIvEsldEwAyS]

well with injectors and a tune id say 17-18psi

[issac]

will I also need a fuel pump, fpr, fuel management?

[issac]

reason being, I just picked up an issue of project car mag and their redtop with t25 wasn't even at stock boost. They had to boost it up to 10 psi to get 197 hp.

[s13rookie]

those would be a good idea, you probably should have done the fuel pump when you swapped in the sr. fuel starvation is a nice way to make an engine go POP!!

[issac]

thank you rookie will do. I am going to a dyno day soon 39 bucks for 3 pulls just wondering what I can boost up to without blowing my motor? Considering I buy a 255lph.

[nrg]

i'd say 10psi is the max you can run with your stock 370cc injectors. t25 runs safely up to 14psi. that's already maxing out the injectors. with a larger s15 gt28r turbo, it should be around 10psi.

[thepest]

i'd say 10psi is the max you can run with your stock 370cc injectors. t25 runs safely up to 14psi. that's already maxing out the injectors. with a larger s15 gt28r turbo, it should be around 10psi.

ya i wouldn't go above 10psi with the stick 370cc, and fuel pump. and like he said stock turbo max is 14psi.

[Wei240]

get fuel pump, larger injectors, and get it tuned (ecu, piggyback, standalone) with some type of wideband, then you can run 17psi safely without worries about blowing up the motor

[DoriftoPnoy]

sorry to thread jack...

but what is the max boost you can put on a stock bottom end sr?

let's say im running a gt2871r. what's teh max boost?

[s13gold]

keep it at stock or damn near close until you can get a nice tune and some better fuel delivery...

[su177rit]

keep it at stock or damn near close until you can get a nice tune and some better fuel delivery...

google and do some research.......you gonna get yourself kill asking those kind of question. here's some tip UPGRADE your fuel system before thinking about increase you boost level, then get it tune. w/ fuel system upgrade and the goodie you already got your car should be around good for 300hp range @17-18psi.

[!Zar!]

You are limited only by tuning. That's how I think of it. Don't worry so much about the boost you are running but worry about how long it will last.

[issac]

thanx for the info. I just want it to run well and reliable.

[Vatche]

issac i have almost the same setup and i ran it at 10lbs with a hks actuator for quite some time it was decent, but i run daily at 8lbs with fuel pump, fmic, full exhaust s15turbo redtop. i dont reccomend ever going above 10lbs. but even at 10lbs with stock ecu and stock injectors your pushing your limits. if you want to be safe stay stock boost til u get engine/fuel management. for a dyno day i think 10lbs is fine.

for a couple of days my wastegate was stuck open and i was boosting 15lbs i would hit 10lbs at half throttle and i never got on it except once and it doesnt soundnice.

[issac]

Wow thanx man appreciate the advice. Especially from someone with close to the same mods as me.

[johngriff]

Where will the Fuel come from.

197hp is what redtop fmic/3inch puts down @ 7psi.

SO... he was not making any MORE peak output.

Basically, the stock ecu and afm is calibrated to deliver correct fueling for the t25 mated to it from the factory at factory boost levels.

So, if you change turbos and boost, you are now delivering: More air.

So you need, More Gasoline Inside the Engine to keep the AF/R and cylinder temps cool.

Ok, phase2, making power, is in the timing map. Once again, if the ECU and MAF is not calibrated for the CFM/PSI that you are delivering it will be unable to deliver correct ign timing, which is what actually makes horsepower on an engine.

Because timing typically should retard per psi of boost the engine develops, to make peak output without detonation, your oem afm and ecu once again, cannot deliver.

Solution: A system to compensate Fuel Changes and Ign changes dictated by you, the end user must be installed. This can be found in, Haltech, AEM EMS, AEM FIC, Greddy Emanage Ultimate, Tuned Eprom.

Those are your options, there really are non others. Yes there are other underdeveloped DIY EMS devices, but you will never hear me recomend them.

So. Boost more? No point. Just keep it stock w/g, and up the boost as you can increase fuel and retard timing accordingly.

This process is known as Tunning. Welcome to Zilvia.

[issac]

Thank you johngriff. I would have to be an idiot to boost higher than stock, according to the info supplied in this thread. Thanks to everyone that supplied useful feedback.

[blownoffvalve]

its awesome how these stock motors can take up to a bar. Most hondas can't even go over 9

[johngriff]

its awesome how these stock motors can take up to a bar. Most hondas can't even go over 9


Where did you get this information from?

[neilsan]

for a couple of days my wastegate was stuck open and i was boosting 15lbs i would hit 10lbs at half throttle and i never got on it except once and it doesnt soundnice.

you mean stuck closed? building extra boost is not something thing that would happen if your wastegate sticks open.

this thread is relevant to my interests... i was thinking 10psi is what i'd push a 2871 at max on stock everything. but ive got my wideband, i guess i'll see for myself.

[harleys]

Where will the Fuel come from.

197hp is what redtop fmic/3inch puts down @ 7psi.

SO... he was not making any MORE peak output.

Basically, the stock ecu and afm is calibrated to deliver correct fueling for the t25 mated to it from the factory at factory boost levels.

So, if you change turbos and boost, you are now delivering: More air.

So you need, More Gasoline Inside the Engine to keep the AF/R and cylinder temps cool.

Ok, phase2, making power, is in the timing map. Once again, if the ECU and MAF is not calibrated for the CFM/PSI that you are delivering it will be unable to deliver correct ign timing, which is what actually makes horsepower on an engine.

Because timing typically should retard per psi of boost the engine develops, to make peak output without detonation, your oem afm and ecu once again, cannot deliver.

Solution: A system to compensate Fuel Changes and Ign changes dictated by you, the end user must be installed. This can be found in, Haltech, AEM EMS, AEM FIC, Greddy Emanage Ultimate, Tuned Eprom.

Those are your options, there really are non others. Yes there are other underdeveloped DIY EMS devices, but you will never hear me recomend them.

So. Boost more? No point. Just keep it stock w/g, and up the boost as you can increase fuel and retard timing accordingly.

This process is known as Tunning. Welcome to Zilvia.

Power FC?

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[bardabe]

Power FC?

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Power FC = Nintendo Gameboy