Brake pads for daily driving

[Natty]

I need new brake pads all around. PDM has the best price I have found yet, $65~ for KVR carbons all around (8 pads).
Anyone have them?
I need something for my stock 1991. I never race, I just so "spirited" daily driving &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>
Basically, low cost, longevity, and rotor friendliness are important. They do do better than OEM right?
Jeff

[uiuc240]

Steve (240 2NR) will probably chime in on this too, as he has OEM brakes with KVR pads. &nbsp;I have them with my Z brakes and they work wonderfully hot and cold. &nbsp;I don't know how much that has to do with the x-drilled rotors though. &nbsp;But the bite is good, they don't fade, and they get better with a bit of heat. &nbsp;Cool part is that when they DO heat up, they talk to you just like a set of real carbon brakes (wheeeeeee!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>. &nbsp;It's a different sound than brake squeal...it's not really metallic sounding. &nbsp;Just a high-pitched wail. &nbsp;Awesome. &nbsp;That tells you they're ready to rock and roll. &nbsp;I love them and would recommend them to anyone. &nbsp;But some would say Porterfield are better...but you can get two sets of KVRs for that price! &nbsp;
<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>

Eric

[jyt747]

I have them on my car and they work pretty good. The only thing I don't like is, like what uiuc240 says, the squeal that it has. not sure if the anti-squeal stuff works on it or not though.

[uiuc240]

no no. &nbsp;mine ONLY squeal when HOT...that's the carbon doing its thing. &nbsp;if yours are squealing all the time, that's because you're either missing the shims or you need to get some anti-squeal lube. &nbsp;problem solved.

Eric

[sykikchimp]

A lot of high performance brake pads are loud. &nbsp;It's a fairly common trait that many of us have grown to love cause, as Eric said, it usually means they are getting closer to their proper operating temps, and they are starting to bite good.

[240 2NR]

Normally I'd tell you that they are decent cold and are awsome hot, but I'm starting to think my car has issues not related to my brake pads that cause them to be this way(slow to heat up and less than stellar cold). &nbsp;I'm thinking I may need to replace the rotors or MC.

In anycase I have used these pads at a track school with great results. &nbsp;At 4 laps per session, and each lap having 2 100-->40mph braking zones, and only an hour between sessions, these brakes held up great, without any hint of fade. &nbsp;They are a big improvement over OEM brakes and will definitely work better the more heat you put in them. &nbsp;The carbon squeal Eric is talking about should never be apparent in normal legal driving. &nbsp;You have to get on them pretty good to get them that hot, but they are ready to rock when they get there.

[bc240sx]

hmm for the price of KVR is a really good deal since u don't race or track i think either OEM pad or KVR well get ur job done. but if u want performance pad go for Project Mu or Endless pads, they really kick ass when they heats up..

[Roly]

I've had nothing but the best of luck with Axxis originals... not the metal masters, &nbsp;No fade, No Squeal, and Very little brake dust on a stock disc... and they went over 3yrs trouble free with very hard braking. The only weak spot I saw were the brake lines, but once those are upgraded, &nbsp;you're home-free.

[HippoSleek]

Roly - awesome: "RACECAR spelled backwardS still spells RACECAR:

Sounds like some good reviews for the KVRs. &nbsp;Is there much dust and how are they on rotors? &nbsp;I need street pads!

If you've got some money, you can't beat Porterfield R4S's. &nbsp;Metal Masters always get good reviews from 240 owners too. &nbsp;I don't like OEMs for the 240 - I'm running them now and they are a big disappointment (compared to Honda OEM).

I'd stay away from the Japanese rice-pads. &nbsp;I will bet money I can stop faster than Mu's or Endless (same level of pad) for $60 less (at every level). &nbsp;I guess if you live in Japan and don't pay the incredible mark-up they might be worth the money... but not here.

[240 2NR]

The dust really isn't too bad on the KVR's around town. &nbsp;About average I'd say (certainly not german car like), maybe wash them once a month if you drive a lot. &nbsp;Watch out at the track though. &nbsp;I went out for a four lap session around miday and the dust on my wheels has hardly noticable, but after I got back they were black inside all the spokes. &nbsp;I really think that all the "dustless" pads are just labeled that way since average driving won't get them hot enough to dust, but all pads will dust when hot and working their best.

You should probably get them, a good street/auto-x pad at a really low price. &nbsp;As for wear, I've had them on for about 9 months (and just over 10k miles), on original rotors (63k) with one track day, and I still have over 1.5mm left on all my rotors before they reach minimum spec, and the pads are still nice and fat (80-90% if I had to guess). &nbsp;I also have a farm road that I like to drive just to get my pads nice and hot every so often to bed in pads and practice braking (lots of 60-5 "stops"). &nbsp;I'd say I hit that once a month. &nbsp;Driving out there or the track, it's always cool to hear the carbon brake whine.

[hurleyboi514]

mine were great. &nbsp;i never faded once, but i did overheat them on a loong downhill mountain run. &nbsp;it was like 3-4 minutes of very fast, very hard braking. &nbsp;anyways, i overheated my brakes pretty bad. &nbsp;the rotors became orange (and stayed orange for like 2 minutes) but even then i stilll had good braking power!! &nbsp;but after i got down, let the brakes cool, and decided to go home, my brakes quit working. &nbsp;i had to pump the pedal like 50 times to get the pedal to have about 1/2 its stroke. &nbsp;after taht, i havent been able to brake well. &nbsp;i need to bleed my brakes pretty bad too. &nbsp;my friend said the glue that holds the pad together probably melted and killed the rotor. my rotor has like black spots all over it. &nbsp;its sad... &nbsp;but, its not the pads fault, thats for sure. &nbsp;those things are great! &nbsp;i just over used my brakes ability to brake, so ill probably upgrade to NA Z capilars and rotors soon since i dont plan on braking any softer... &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sneaky.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':pissed:'>

[Natty]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (hurleyboi514 @ July 17 2002,10:48)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Thanks for all the input guys &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>
I am going with the KVRs. I did hear a rumor that they will be mroe likely to lock up the brakes. Any truth to this?
Anyone know about cheap 4 lug non abs rotors, since mine are wapred?
Jeff

[uiuc240]

you may find it easier to lock the brakes because the pads are grippier...however, they are also very easy to modulate and control. &nbsp;and locking them up is a warning that you're losing the grip of your tires (either get better tires or don't brake so hard <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>). &nbsp;about the rotors, i'd say get some nice KVR cross-drilled ones from Don at www.pdm-racing.com. &nbsp;But if you just want cheap, look around for Brembo blanks.

Eric

[nrcooled]

I have the Axxis Metal and they are great...for street driving. &nbsp;When it comes to spirited driving they work well too but I haven't tested them out on the track or anything...yet <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[Natty]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (uiuc240 @ July 17 2002,11:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">you may find it easier to lock the brakes because the pads are grippier...however, they are also very easy to modulate and control. and locking them up is a warning that you're losing the grip of your tires (either get better tires or don't brake so hard <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>). about the rotors, i'd say get some nice KVR cross-drilled ones from Don at www.pdm-racing.com. But if you just want cheap, look around for Brembo blanks.

Eric</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I have been looking around for Brembo blanks. Anyone know who sells them?
Jeff

[HippoSleek]

hurley - its you have spots of stuff on your rotors, you cooked the pads and they left material (i.e., they can't take THAT much) or you didn't bed them properly. &nbsp;Usually taking some emory cloth to the rotors will help remove those deposits, restore some braking ability, and get rid of what must feel a bit like warped rotors (no?).

Generally, good review of the KVR's. &nbsp;I'm still leery and may wind up just getting R4S's like I want - but it's nice to think about something else.

Rotors - drills don't offer any tangible benefits over blanks, but do have some drawbacks. &nbsp;I'd just go for Brembo blanks. &nbsp;Check out the FAQ for parts suppliers - if you can't find cheap Brembos near you, I got mine for $74/pair delivered.

[240 2NR]

Hippo- The $74 pair shipped was from Colletti motorsports right? &nbsp;Are they still in business? &nbsp;I saved the number in my phone and called recently, but the number has been disconnected (at least, that's what the impersonal recorded voice from the phone company told me). &nbsp;So I tried finding their website and no luck. &nbsp;Any thoughts? &nbsp;Otherwise Stano parts has the next best prices I've found on blanks at $45 before shipping per rotor. &nbsp;Do you know if blanks come plated, or will they get the nasty rotor rust at the circumference?

[uiuc240]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (HippoSleek @ July 18 2002,12:50)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Rotors - drills don't offer any tangible benefits over blanks, but do have some drawbacks. I'd just go for Brembo blanks. Check out the FAQ for parts suppliers - if you can't find cheap Brembos near you, I got mine for $74/pair delivered.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I disagree. &nbsp;In the wet, I don't lose braking feel like I used to with non-drilled rotors. &nbsp;Part of this is probably because I upgraded the brakes at the same time, but still. &nbsp;And the KVR ones are radiused, and therefore they don't have cracking problems like chamfered ones do. &nbsp;I've had mine for a year with NO problems. &nbsp;And I like to beat on them now and again.

I just don't see the point in getting Brembo blanks when you can get nice KVR plated drilled ones for just a bit more. &nbsp;By the way, the plating is NICE. &nbsp;No rustage.

Eric