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View Full Version : Odd brake situation (S14 240sx)


Dopefish
10-21-2006, 09:34 AM
Backstory... skip to troubleshooting if this is unimportant to you
I had the day off Monday so I decided I'd go to the local Autozone and pickup a plethora of maintenance bits to work on my 240 since I've been too busy and have been neglecting it.

So I got my shopping list and was off, I intended on doing the following:

-Flush coolant system
-Change oil
-Top off or flush power steering system
-Flush transmission
-Replace front brake pads (Was down to 1mm, zOMG!) (Rear pads still have 5-6mm)
-Order TO bearing (Mine is making horrid noises due to what I believe may have been improper installation by previous owner)

So I get my parts and head home, I stop at Target to get some other stuff and decide to go ahead and top off my P/S fluid since the pump was making a little noise when turning at low speeds. So I added 1/4 a quart and it seemed a little happier and I jumped in my car and started to go, but as soon as I did I noticed my brake pedal felt weird, almost like I had a TON of air in the lines. I checked the brake fluid and it was a little low but not at MIN, so I picked up some more, added it in and no differance. I limped the car home at 10 under the speed limit out of pure fear (was only 2mi from my house) and began looking at potential problems with my neighbor.

TROUBLESHOOTING...
The fluid looked horrible so we went ahead and flushed the entire system out and added all new fluid and bled the system. The process we used started at the furthest point from the MC and worked closer to it going corner to corner. Once I had clean fluid and no more air bubbles I checked the pedal but no change. So I thought, well maybe the front pads being so low may have something to do with it, so we replaced the pads and no differance. The pedal had over 1" of excess travel before starting to slow down and I could slam it to the floor and not lock the fronts up or slow down in a safe/timely manner. The only problem I could see with how we bled it was the e-brake was left on while doing the process, but I didnt think much of it at the time. My only thought was that the MC must be bad so I ordered one from AZ and awaited its arrival. Once I got it we installed it according to the instructions, bench bleeding and all... it went on without a hitch. We rebled the system (an excessive amount of time spent at each caliper just to be SURE that there was NO air in the system). This time we assured the e-brake was off before bleeding which I think may have helped *some*.

This time, as soon as we were done bleeding the pedal feel was AWESOME, like rock solid. It felt as good as the FD brake pedal feels. So I was happy, but then we started the car and all of a sudden it was soft again with the vaccuum assist. I drove the car up to 45mph three times and tried to stop and it stopped, even was able to lock the fronts when I was all the way down on the pedal but it was still soft and lacked feedback for a large portion of the pedal travel. If I pumped it once then tried to stop the pedal feel was almost normal but it returned to being soft after 10 seconds of no brake usage.

Another strange thing is that after all of this and the MC replacement, my e-brake feeling changed. It use to have to be pulled to full extension of the handle to lock the car in place, but now I pull it up a normal amount (1/3 way) and it locks the car firmly into place and holds much stronger than it use to. I had previously adjusted the e-brake handle to fix this problem but it made little differance (over a year ago) and now all of a sudden it feels PERFECT without any adjustments...

I'm at a complete loss as to what to do next. I'm driving the car now as it does stop safely but the pedal feel is HORRIBLE and has at least an extra inch of travel before becoming firm. I began to suspect the booster but if it were failing I'd think the pedal would become harder to push down, not ridiculously soft.

Here is some information on the car in question:
1995 Nissan 240sx 5psd manual @ 215k miles
Front + rear disc brakes without ABS
Master Cylinder is a stock Nissan 7/8" Non-ABS unit
Car is powered by a KA24DE 2.4L DOHC inline-4 N/A
Using new Valvoline Sythetic Dot3/4 brake fluid


Cliff Notes for OMG long tale:
1. Brake pedal became VERY soft
2. Replaced front pads that were at 1mm and flushed and bled brake system, no change.
3. Replaced Master Cylinder with remanufactured unit from AZ
4. Rebled brake system AGAIN and AGAIN to be safe
5. Pedal feel with engine off is GREAT, when engine on, pedal feel is soft again
6. E-brake magically is working GREAT again when previously it was very weak and ineffective.
7. Me goes WTF Mate?!

_Kris

g6civcx
10-21-2006, 10:02 AM
You'll get more answers if you skip straight to the relevant details. Taking us on a tour of the shopping malls, while fun, won't help your problem.

Dopefish
10-21-2006, 10:10 AM
You'll get more answers if you skip straight to the relevant details. Taking us on a tour of the shopping malls, while fun, won't help your problem.

I explained the events of the day and everything I did as you never know what an effect something may have had on the car. If you are too troubled by reading exactly what happened, I provided cliff notes at the bottom.

There, I edited for your viewing pleasure....

_Kris

MadScientist
10-21-2006, 10:35 AM
I am having the same problems after Upgrading the Full brake system.

OE S14 Front 5-Lug Hubs
OE R32 Front Sumitumo Calipers
OE R32 Front Drilled Rotors (295mm x 32mm)
OE Z32 1 1/16 Master Cylinder
OE Z32 Brake Booster (Painted Gold)
OE Z32 Rear 5-Lug Hubs
OE Z32 Rear Calipers (Powdercoated Gloss Black)
OE Z32 Rear Drums w/ E-brake Cables
Brembo Z32 Slotted Rear Rotors
StopTech Z32 Stainless Brake Lines
EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads
Motul 600 Racing Brake Fluid
Cusco Brake Cylinder Stopper

I can't drive the car because I dont have Headlights of Front Bumper but I have drove around the parking lot... temped on limping it over to Nissan and have them go over everything.

Let me know if you find anything out.

Peace
Drew

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 01:57 PM
Dope-F- do you have stock calipers?

Carlos

Dopefish
10-21-2006, 04:40 PM
Dope-F- do you have stock calipers?

Carlos

Yes.

*message length

_Kris

AJ1356
03-16-2007, 03:41 PM
wow i have the same problem with mine. except in mine, the brakes siezed first and when i replaced the calipers and bleed the whole system, the brakes are not working when i have the car on.
Hope we find answers here :)

otterball21
03-16-2007, 06:41 PM
my pedal felt weak before. turned out I had a rear caliper shot....I've replaced one side.. haven't replaced the other side yet... the one side... I changed the pads, and the brake locked up,

The e brake cable is connected to the caliper.


But back to your problem. A) you might have a leak somewhere in a caliper/blow seal?

B) your brake booster... no longer is functionally properly... does your car have ABS?

Dopefish
03-20-2007, 10:05 AM
I haven't replaced the booster, but I'm considering it.... the MC may not have been the problem the more I think about it as it was not leaking and the booster was dry.

I have a full set of Z32 brakes for all four corners with new stainless lines, if there is a caliper to blame, it will be weeded out shortly.

_Kris

MadScientist
03-20-2007, 10:23 AM
Glad to see you searched, but you brought back a Dead post.

Anyway... you were just shy of actually finding the right post with the answer... but I will give it to you anyways.

If you have replaced the Booster or the Master Cylinder... you need to adjust the plunger on the Booster. You will need needle nose plyers and 8mm wrench. The plunger (or whatever its actually called) is sitting in the middle of the booster and applies pressure to the Master Cylinder. you dont need to adjust it alot... normally 1/2 a turn is more than enough. You will have to adjust it a few times to get it right.
Adjust it to where you have pedal feel but your car will move under its own torque.

Peace
Drew

projectRDM
03-20-2007, 11:34 AM
You could also have a bad check valve, it's the one-way plastic fitting inline with the brake booster vacuum hose.

Strange I never saw this post when it was new.

Dopefish
03-20-2007, 11:48 AM
Glad to see you searched, but you brought back a Dead post.

Anyway... you were just shy of actually finding the right post with the answer... but I will give it to you anyways.

Drew

Well, someone else brought it back from the dead, and since I had a few updates to my situation I figured I'd post. I may swap my MC out again with a 15/16 automatic one due to the larger brakes I'm about to install. I am not fond of the idea of modding a Z32 MC for my car right now.

I'll look at the proceedure to adjust the boost tonight in the FSM, I've read that if the plunger/pedal is not adjusted properly to the MC it can cause damage to it and premature failure. I'll take a look at the check valve tonight and make sure air can only pass in one direction. Also, is there a test proceedure for the boost itself to assure it is functional?

I've requested a week off of work to do some stuff to my car, bushings, etc but I also want to disasseble my intake assembly, simplify it and clean everything up as well as root out some bad parts. Hopefully that'll give me time to get my brakes done and working in a firm and comfortable manner.

Thanks,
_Kris