Slidin240Wayz
10-01-2006, 08:31 AM
Everyone,
It is always best to ensure a fully secured rim on your car. When purchasing aftermarket rims, the amount of threads on the wheel studs that are tightened down might decrease, creating a weaker connection between the rim and the hub, especially if you have slip-on spacers. There are a couple options already for the front of the S14; Nismo, Peak Performance, etc. These options cost more than double compared to the Moroso studs. Here are the specs:
Quoted from www.summitracing.com
"Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Wheel Studs
Wheel Stud Style: Press-in
Thread Size: 7/16-20 RH in.
Knurl Diameter: 0.560 in.
Underhead Length (in): 2.875 in.
Quick Start Nose: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a set of 5.
Notes: Fits most late model GM disc brake applications.
Wheel Studs, Press-In, 7/16-20 in. x 2 7/8 in. Long, .560 in. Diameter Knurl, Set of 5
Strong studs you can count on.
These Moroso wheel studs are manufactured from high-grade SAE 8740 steel to withstand shear loads of 190,000 psi. They are designed expressly for use with thick-hub racing wheels for both drag and Oval Track racing, and have quick start dog ends for easier starting of lug nuts. They're available in both press-in and screw-in styles."
There is a minimal difference in knurl diameters but these wheel studs are known to work without any issues; The front hub hole size is .563 inches while the moroso studs are .560, a difference of .003.
Parts needed:
- Wheel studs
- 7/16 lug nuts
- 7-10 washers, purchase ones that create the smallest gap between the stud and the washer's inner edge
- PB Blaster's Liquid Wrench
- Torque wrench
- Hammer
- 1/2 inch rachet with 21mm extended socket, match the socket to the lug nuts you have.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03826.jpg
Optional
- Torch
1)You want to get down to the hub so you will have to remove your calipers and rotors; 2 bolts and rest it on the control arm. Apply liquid wrench on all your front stock wheel studs. Let that settle in for a couple of minutes. Next, use a hammer to knock them out. If they are stuck, apply for liquid wrench, use a heat torch, and/or use a bigger hammmer. Now you should only have your hub in front of you.
2) Have your girl friend rub one out for you and apply the super white stuff on the hub holes, washers, and the wheel studs.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03829.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03831.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03830.jpg
Please don't get offended, it's just liquid wrench.
3) Place the stud through the hole and place the washers.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03832.jpg
4) Put the lug nut on with the side with more contact closest to the washers.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03833.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03834.jpg
5) Ensure the wheel studs stay in place, you might need to hammer them slightly from the back so they don't spin. If the stud spins while you are trying to tighten the stud, it will strip the knurl area.
6) Since my torque wrench died, I had to use the 1/2 inch rachet. I used an extension to hold the hub in place. Now you can tighten the studs down until the rear of the stud matches up with the hub- 72-87 ft/pounds of torque. If its your first time doing this, use the torque wrench. I did not torque them down, but if you have done this before, you have a good feeling of how tight they should be.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03858.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03859.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03835.jpg
7) The completed hub.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03862.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03823.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03822-1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03821.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03824.jpg
Enjoy your safe and secure rims!
Carlos
S14 Rear Studs- Summit part number: ARP 100-7708 @ 12x1.5 thread (Same concept, no pics yet)
It is always best to ensure a fully secured rim on your car. When purchasing aftermarket rims, the amount of threads on the wheel studs that are tightened down might decrease, creating a weaker connection between the rim and the hub, especially if you have slip-on spacers. There are a couple options already for the front of the S14; Nismo, Peak Performance, etc. These options cost more than double compared to the Moroso studs. Here are the specs:
Quoted from www.summitracing.com
"Brand: Moroso
Product Line: Moroso Wheel Studs
Wheel Stud Style: Press-in
Thread Size: 7/16-20 RH in.
Knurl Diameter: 0.560 in.
Underhead Length (in): 2.875 in.
Quick Start Nose: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a set of 5.
Notes: Fits most late model GM disc brake applications.
Wheel Studs, Press-In, 7/16-20 in. x 2 7/8 in. Long, .560 in. Diameter Knurl, Set of 5
Strong studs you can count on.
These Moroso wheel studs are manufactured from high-grade SAE 8740 steel to withstand shear loads of 190,000 psi. They are designed expressly for use with thick-hub racing wheels for both drag and Oval Track racing, and have quick start dog ends for easier starting of lug nuts. They're available in both press-in and screw-in styles."
There is a minimal difference in knurl diameters but these wheel studs are known to work without any issues; The front hub hole size is .563 inches while the moroso studs are .560, a difference of .003.
Parts needed:
- Wheel studs
- 7/16 lug nuts
- 7-10 washers, purchase ones that create the smallest gap between the stud and the washer's inner edge
- PB Blaster's Liquid Wrench
- Torque wrench
- Hammer
- 1/2 inch rachet with 21mm extended socket, match the socket to the lug nuts you have.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03826.jpg
Optional
- Torch
1)You want to get down to the hub so you will have to remove your calipers and rotors; 2 bolts and rest it on the control arm. Apply liquid wrench on all your front stock wheel studs. Let that settle in for a couple of minutes. Next, use a hammer to knock them out. If they are stuck, apply for liquid wrench, use a heat torch, and/or use a bigger hammmer. Now you should only have your hub in front of you.
2) Have your girl friend rub one out for you and apply the super white stuff on the hub holes, washers, and the wheel studs.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03829.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03831.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03830.jpg
Please don't get offended, it's just liquid wrench.
3) Place the stud through the hole and place the washers.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03832.jpg
4) Put the lug nut on with the side with more contact closest to the washers.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03833.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03834.jpg
5) Ensure the wheel studs stay in place, you might need to hammer them slightly from the back so they don't spin. If the stud spins while you are trying to tighten the stud, it will strip the knurl area.
6) Since my torque wrench died, I had to use the 1/2 inch rachet. I used an extension to hold the hub in place. Now you can tighten the studs down until the rear of the stud matches up with the hub- 72-87 ft/pounds of torque. If its your first time doing this, use the torque wrench. I did not torque them down, but if you have done this before, you have a good feeling of how tight they should be.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03858.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03859.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03835.jpg
7) The completed hub.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03862.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03823.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03822-1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03821.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/Wheel%20Studs/DSC03824.jpg
Enjoy your safe and secure rims!
Carlos
S14 Rear Studs- Summit part number: ARP 100-7708 @ 12x1.5 thread (Same concept, no pics yet)