Megan Rucas

[Creizai]

My Current setup
Cusco Coilovers / F Camber Plates (Front has 4 notches from bottom) (Back is dumped to the bottom)
Kazama Traction Control Arms
Tein Tie Rods and Ends

So I spent the entire night installing my new parts.

Megan Rear Upper Control Arm
Megan Rear Traction Link
Peak Performance Toe Rod

I could tell that Peak Performance has their shit together the quality was about 20% better. The Megan however is very nice and I can tell a difference from those cheap ebay quality brands. Time will tell however if the parts will last. Anyway so I got my Alignment at TD Performance by a guy who does GT3 Porsches.

I asked for
F/R 0 Toe
F/ Camber -3.0
R/ Camber -1.5
F/ Caster +8.0

He was telling me Dead 0 Toe will make the car unstable and that I should add a little Toe out, which is fine by me since I wanted it but since my car is a daily I wanted to go on the freeway when it was raining. :)

I got
F/R +.02 Toe
F/ Camber - 3.0
R/ Caber -3.0
F/L Caster +7.9
F/R Casster +8.1

They said they could not get my Rear Camber to 1.5, because it would run out of threading. The best least lowest - Camber that was equal that they could get was -3.0. I was a disapointed at that, then I asked about my Rear Traction Links, they said they didn't touch them other than tightning them down. I asked them if they evened them up, they said no. This was my fault I should have asked them to even it up.

So what you guys think the reason why I couldn't get my -1.5? Uneven Rear Traction control + No adjusting it since I'm guessing if they would have played with it they could have gotten different Toe and Camber Settings.

Or

Megan just didn't make there RUCA's to Adjust suspension that is that far out of spec.
PROLEM WAS MY CAR WAS TO LOW THANKS ZILVIA

New PROBLEM AT THE BOTTOM

[kenversusryu]

so you're saying there are no more threads at all on the ball bearing or the the middle hollow screw? If there isn't any more thread maybe your eccentric bolt is messing around with your camber. Look at your Ruca and see if there are anymore threads you can play with on the bearing and the hollow screw. If there are then you have plenty of camber adjustment left.

[GSXRJJordan]

The lower you go, the more RUCA you need (meaning the longer you need to make the RUCA) to get 0 camber... if you're bottoming out your Cuscos in the back, its not suprise that you dont have enough RUCA to get your camber out that far. Either raise the back 1/2" (will make a world of diff) or don't worry about it, 3* isnt bad.

[dans]

I agree. Dumping the car will not only make it hard to get the numbers you want as you sit, it will also change they geometry you get as your out on the track or street. In short going too low can and will screw you up.

[kenversusryu]

okay disregard what i said. I misread what you said.

These guys are right.

[dct223]

o man... 3" isnt bad????

i have battle version RUCA's... car is pretty low, just barley tucking tire, able to get -1.5 camber in the rear

[Sir]

kinda off topic but:
toe out will make you follow every groove on the road, but good turn in
toe in for hi-speed stability but understeer coming out of corner

Remember Camber don't kill your tires as much as toe.

[articdragon192]

Wierd, When I went to Hiro's, they recommended 0 toe up front for neutral turn in, and some toe in in the rear for stability.

[Creizai]

The problem is I'm just to low in the rear like you said plus add that with them not adjusting my traction rod = ownage

New problem
When I go over say 40 or 60 mph and brake really hard my wheel wheel go 90 Degrees Left (but breaks DEAD STRAIGHT). My Front Left Wheel almost came off and only had 1 lugnut holding it on so it was banging and through off my alignment ( I think :P ). Anyway I had this problem a while ago when my alignment was totally shit, but I didn't notice it when I got my alignment fixed (too bad that only lasted 3 or so days before my shit got fucked up.

Anyway so I have the wheel a decent 5-10 degrees to the right (from dead center) to go straight. Then when I brake hardcore it will turn completley left 90 degrees and brake straight. If I hold the wheel Exactly where I have it normally while accelerating (again a little bit to the right) and then break the car will turn RIGHT hardcore.

Thoughts ideas? Brakes, Suspension alignment, Bumpster?

Also I've been thinking about buying some

Roll Center Adjusters (http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=467) before getting my shit aligned again.

Here is my old alignment specs that prolly got shot to shit. (The specs above were wrong.. i dunno wtf I was thinking when I put those down)

Front Left Camber -3.0
Front Right Camber -3.0

Front Left Toe -0.02
Front Right Toe -0.02

Front Left Caster +8.2
Front Right Caster +7.9

Back Left Camber -3.0
Back Right Camber -3.0

Back Left Toe +0.12
Back Right Toe +0.12

[!Zar!]

You arn't going to get much help with alignment if you don't specify what you plan on doing.


Let me know and I'll try to help you out.

[Creizai]

You arn't going to get much help with alignment if you don't specify what you plan on doing.

But I can tell you right now your setup is off for both drift and grip.

Let me know and I'll try to help you out.

Also I Didn't tell you what my car was I turned this thread into something else completely so I wouldn't have to start a new thread.

This is a Daily Driven Drift S13 Also on 15x6 +12 Swastikas.

[jy116]

never seen RCAs... i cant even picture where they'd go? Maybe that pic is an example of RCAs for another application?

Also, dont think throwing more money at the problem will fix it. Your lug nuts, or studs, might be stripped. Something is wrong if ur wheel is turning during breaking. Make sure all your new parts are torqued to spec, and hope the shop will help you since it was aligned to recent, and is obviously messed up... I gotta do that for mine too. Im stuck with front toe-in [see post] and might get RUCAs to get less rear neg camber...

good luck bro!