View Full Version : Car destroys clutch slave cylinders???
brainfood
09-26-2006, 08:04 PM
So this is the deal, car just went together with a redtop and exedy hyper single. The clutch master and slave were unknown mileage but were working before the swap. Car has nismo pivot point, brand new oe t/o bearing, stainless steel clutch line. Drive the car home from the shop and the clutch works okay but I had to bleed it mulitple times before leaving to get it to work correctly. Get it home and it looses pressure with the clutch in waiting for my gate to open, bam clutch engages and stalls the car. Let the clutch out and start it and it works fine. Move it the next morning and the pedal has no return but is till disengaging/engaging fine. Then later that day no clutch pressure. Look underneath and sure enough the slave is blown all out and leaking fluid everywhere. So I order a rebuilt master and slave from kragen. This is my problem I install everything today and bleed the system about 4-5 times to get the clutch to work correctly also adjust it so it works properly. Clutch is working perfectly. Drive it about a block and back and the clutch pedal starts getting sticky so I let it sit for a second and try to pump it by hand and sure enough almost no pressure (easily pumps by hand) look at the master and it is low so look at the slave and it is leaking. The newly rebuilt slave is leaking?? The new slave doesnt have 3/4 stamped on it like the old one so I am not sure the size might be slightly smaller than the old one. But why would it destroy 2 slave cylinders? All I can imagine is the extra force required to push it the exedy hyper single was too much for them, but what do I do now? Say defective rebuild and go get another one.... order a new oe one from nissan.... or get a nismo slave? I dont want to spend $175 on a nismo slave but after the massive amount of cash put into this car and the fact that it will be a high level competition car it needs to be right. Opinions what to do next? or even why I am destroying slaves?
kouki_s14
09-26-2006, 08:29 PM
I have the same clutch and it makes my clutch pedal feel like a brake pedal almost. First slave was probably old and just blew due to the extra load it has to carry. Second slave blew probably because you went to kragen to cut some costs. Get an OEM slave or a nismo one. I'm actually using a nismo slave that came with my clip. So it was sitting on the tranny for who knows how long and guess what, it still works fine with no leaks.
hitman
09-26-2006, 09:08 PM
ill hit you in the head with his kragen slave cylinder if you hate on it ever again.
bryan, try milking it, like you do to my nipple.
wootwoot
09-26-2006, 11:36 PM
Dont buy a Nismo slave. Nismo parts are mostly parts from other cars that say Nismo and cost more. I will bet money the Nismo 240sx sr20 whatever they call it slave cylinder is simply a 300zxtt slave cylinder or one bigger off of another car/truck. Find out what it is and buy that!
brainfood
09-27-2006, 01:02 AM
Dont buy a Nismo slave. Nismo parts are mostly parts from other cars that say Nismo and cost more. I will bet money the Nismo 240sx sr20 whatever they call it slave cylinder is simply a 300zxtt slave cylinder or one bigger off of another car/truck. Find out what it is and buy that!
I have heared that and I agree. there is no way I can pay that kinda markup for a "nismo" slave.
brainfood
09-27-2006, 06:02 PM
Another one down. I think I know the problem with this one it was from my old car, s14 with s14 ka and 89-90 5sp. So I think the slave cylinders are different on the sohc, it had a big gap between the clutch release fork and the slave piston end at idle position. Just want to make sure that was the problem and not that there is an unusually large gap on my car (clutch problems??) I ordered a new oe slave for a 91-98 so should be here mon. and hopefully it will be running.
fliprayzin240sx
09-27-2006, 11:11 PM
It can be also for some reason, your over extending the slave cylinders causing them to blow. For some reason, I had the same issue when i first did my swap. Turned out, I needed a thicker TOB. Ended up using a Z32 TOB and problem went away...
brainfood
09-27-2006, 11:53 PM
It can be also for some reason, your over extending the slave cylinders causing them to blow. For some reason, I had the same issue when i first did my swap. Turned out, I needed a thicker TOB. Ended up using a Z32 TOB and problem went away...
Thats exactley what it looks like, I am going to check it out when I get the new slave and see whats up. I replaced it with a stock tob from phase 2 wonder if they sent me a single plate thinner one or if I just need something thicker.
I was also thinking the clutch release fork may be bent. Not sure why or how it would be but its the only real explination I can think of. Can you pull it out without dropping the trans. I cant tell if it will fit through the hole where the rubber boot is. thought about just bending it to where it engaged the stock slave instead of getting a thicker t/o bearing.
stockevokiller
09-28-2006, 08:50 PM
I believe I am having the same problem with my car. My TOB was making noises so I got a new clutch, exedy stock replacement, since it came with a tob. I replaced everything and had a really soft clutch, deleted the damper as well. I bleed it and nothing still garbage, finally it blew out. So I got an oem one cost me about 60 bucks at the dealer. It lasted about 1300 miles with a really soft clutch then finally blew. I am thinking I need either a longer rod in the slave cylinder or a thicker TOB. When you resolve your issue please post.
Also I think that they sell a different TOB for 95 cars, mine is a 95, I don't know if its actually different in size or not.
brainfood
09-28-2006, 10:00 PM
I believe I am having the same problem with my car. My TOB was making noises so I got a new clutch, exedy stock replacement, since it came with a tob. I replaced everything and had a really soft clutch, deleted the damper as well. I bleed it and nothing still garbage, finally it blew out. So I got an oem one cost me about 60 bucks at the dealer. It lasted about 1300 miles with a really soft clutch then finally blew. I am thinking I need either a longer rod in the slave cylinder or a thicker TOB. When you resolve your issue please post.
Also I think that they sell a different TOB for 95 cars, mine is a 95, I don't know if its actually different in size or not.
Mine is a '95 but they are no different all dohc are the same, difference is between dohc and sohc and I think they are all the same length just different size. I will see whats up next mon when I get back in town the slave will be there tommorow.
brainfood
10-02-2006, 11:35 PM
So this is the deal, brand new oe slave. Still same problem clutch slave over extends and blows itself. here is what it looks like. Bled the clutch and it was pretty squishy pumped it a couple of times and it lost all pressure. look underneath and the slave was leaking. Pull back boot and this is what it looked like.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/brainfood1182/cid_10-02-06_2211.jpg
Now the t/o bearing is the correct one I am almost certain, It looked the same as the one I took off. so what could the problem be? The clutch was supposed to use the stock t/o bearing size. Only thing I can think of is the clutch release fork is bent causing it to over extend to release the clutch all the way. Can I get the clutch release fork out without pulling the trans? I know it just slides over the to and clips to the pivot point. I can knock it off the pivot point with small tap with a hammer if I just pull it out will it fit through the hole in the trans? worth a try to replace it that way if I dont have to drop the trans. Opinions please? I dont know what to do at this point I almost want to wedge something between the trans and the fork and hit it with a hammer to bend it where it works. Edit also can I adjust the pivot ball? when I installed the new one I just tightened it all the way down, is it supposed to have some adjustment to it?
stockevokiller
10-03-2006, 01:48 AM
I overextended my stock slave master cylinder by over adjusting the clutch. Are you adjusting the clutch with the nut behind the clutch pedal? Also what is your procedure to bled the clutch?
I believe that my problem is with the throw out bearing because when I push the clutch in, which is about an inch of full stroke, it makes the screeching noise that it made before I changed out the clutch and TOB. So I believe I probably have the sohc TOB. Has anyone done this, what were your symptoms?
UNITEDMASTER
10-03-2006, 03:32 AM
Hello ,I think you might want to maybe ADJ the pivot ball,Im not positive how much thread is on it . Or drill a small hole in the fork and put a spring on it that attaches to maybe one of the bolts in the slave cyl.Make your own limiting set up.But I dont know if that will allow full engagement/disengagement.You will have to ADJ it. I thouht you got a new fork ?!! LMK what you find
brainfood
10-03-2006, 07:59 AM
Hello ,I think you might want to maybe ADJ the pivot ball,Im not positive how much thread is on it . Or drill a small hole in the fork and put a spring on it that attaches to maybe one of the bolts in the slave cyl.Make your own limiting set up.But I dont know if that will allow full engagement/disengagement.You will have to ADJ it. I thouht you got a new fork ?!! LMK what you find
yeah I dont think its the fork, I dont think its the t/o bearing either. The clip was loose when I went out and looked at it last night I think I am going to adjust the clutch pedal and maybe notch the slave holes, the pivot is supposed to be all the way screwed in supposedly so who knows. I havent had the car in the air since its been home so I need to jack it up and take a good look at it.
brainfood
10-07-2006, 01:49 PM
Well finally got a chance to check it out, the clutch release fork came off the t/o bearing holder so it was not engaging the clutch properly. I got it back on but without the clip and it didnt stay on so I will probably have to drop the transmission to fix it. Problem is I dont know why it slipped in the first place. Only thing I can think of was a siezed t/o bearing causing the whole thing to spin but it was a new bearing. Guess I will figure it out.
fliprayzin240sx
10-08-2006, 04:19 AM
Like I said before, if your gonna drop the tranny, you might as well go ahead and buy a Z32 TOB. Its a tad bit thicker than the SR/KA TOB and should alleviate that issue. If you put back the tranny and does this shiet again, then youll end up with 1 gheto solution, find a longer replacement for the slave cylinder pin or else, your dropping the tranny again.
brainfood
10-08-2006, 01:20 PM
Like I said before, if your gonna drop the tranny, you might as well go ahead and buy a Z32 TOB. Its a tad bit thicker than the SR/KA TOB and should alleviate that issue. If you put back the tranny and does this shiet again, then youll end up with 1 gheto solution, find a longer replacement for the slave cylinder pin or else, your dropping the tranny again.
The t/o bearing wasnt the issue till the release fork slipped off the holder and was pushing directly on it now its toast and thats why it wont stay on the holder. When I put the release fork back on the holder like its supposed to be there is no slack between the end of the fork and the slave if it was any thicker it wouldnt be right I dont think, so I am dropping the trans to fix the clip and replace the now destroyed t/o bearing.
Brent V
10-08-2006, 01:59 PM
So I just happened to have the same problem, the pivot ball broke off on my S13, and eventually the clutch fork came out of the spring mounts on the TOB so now I need to drop the tranny and put everything back together with the new pivot-ball and slave cyl I got.
Are you going to do a clutch or flywheel while you're in there?
How hard is the tranny drop on a S13? Can you post some pics/experiences?
stockevokiller
10-08-2006, 04:00 PM
I can comment on a tranny drop on an s14 which I am about to do very soon. It is a pain in the ass, but very doable by a backyard mechanic like myself. If I were to do this all over again I would've paid the 200 bucks in the first place and had the clutch and tob replaced by a profesional. But I started this mess and I am going to fix it.
brainfood
10-08-2006, 07:57 PM
Ditto, I am paying a shop to do it. Its def. doable and I have done it many times in the past. But at this point its easier for me to pay someone to do it. I am not changing the clutch since the car is brand new, motor has less than 10 miles in the car, less than 10 miles on the clutch flywheel. But if it was a used clutch I def. would.
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