request: painting car link [Archive] - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

DrtyRat

09-20-2006, 10:10 PM

From FA.....
DIY Paint 101

Tools needed :

Air compressor , at least a 40 gal capable of 90 cfm .
Paint gun (s) : HVLP at least a 1.4 nozzle , this will allow fine atomization of all paints and top coats.
(optional) primer gun 1.6-2.0 nozzle . Primers are generally thicker than base / topcoats ,. A primer gun is recommended but not needed .( spraying primer thru a smaller jetted gun will over time enlarge the cavities and the nozzle in the paint gun .)
Sanders : DA sander ( dual action ) 6 “ air powered . Sanding blocks 18” , 12”, 6”, 4 “.
Hammer and Fender dolly set : Harbor Freight has a great starter kit 7pc , 3 hammers and 4 dolly’s for 20-25$
Basic Hand tools : self explanatory , for removing trim, lights, mirrors, etc.
Grinder : either a 6” grinder or a 90 degree die grinder, with assorted disks ( 24 grit-80 grit)
Variable speed buffer: 1000rpm-3500rpm. Air or electric
Optional tools for repairing larger damage:

Stud puller . This tool welds a stud to the sheet metal and you use a slide hammer to pull on the stud ,pulling out the dent/ding.
Air file : straight line sander that use 18”x3” paper

Materials:

Sand paper : 3M , Fandelli, Norton, Micra are the preferred brands. You’ll need the following grits , 80,150-180,
240,320 . This is 6” stick it back paper. A couple roles of blocking paper 80 grit ,150 grit, 320 grit.
Wet sand paper : (3M) 400 grit , 1200 grit , 1500 grit , 2000 grit,
Scotch brite pads : Fine (gray) pads.
Degreaser / Blend Prep: You can use a couple different things for this . The cheapest is a cleaner like Comet or Ajax. The paint companies make a few products such as “Ting” , “Blend prep” , just to name a few.
Buffing compounds : 3M extra cut II , Clean cut , 3M perfect it II ultra fine , and your favorite wax or polish.
Buffing pads : wool best to use, easiest to mess the finish up with. So I would recommend the foam pads , these pads come in different compounds you have a coarse , medium , fine pads . A course and fine pad should work just fine.
Primer : Urethane primer . Brands I recommend ( cheapest to most expensive) Limco 700k primmer –80$ sprayable gallon, RM diamont DP20 2k primer -160$ spray able gallon, Sikkens Auto Surfacer 940 HS-190$ spray able gallon.
Sealer :RM/ Diamont DP200 low VOC wet on wet sealer 65 $ qt. Sikkens color build sealer 75 $ qt.
Basecoat : RM/Diamont , Sikkens Auto Base are what I prefer . Price varies on color . S13, S14’s should take 3 qt’s of base to spray it and a gallon to do a complete color change.
Clear coat : You want to use the same manufacturer as the basecoat . RM/Diamont I like DC 5100 , and Sikkens I like Auto Clear Plus . Make sure you get the appropriate hardener’s and reducer ‘s for the job (Reducers are classified by the temperature in which you are working and the hardeners are available in slow, med, fast and rapid.. SO pick out the reducer according to the temp. you will be spraying in .If your painting a whole car the slow or medium hardener will be just fine depending on the temp. Heat makes paint dry faster so use common sense.)
Lacquer thinner : You’ll need 2 gallons for clean up purposes .
Plastic Filler : DO NOT USE BONDO BRAND!!!! . Use a high quality filler such as 3M, Evercoat, NAPA”S brand Martin Seymour is also pretty good.
Glazing putty : DO NOT USE BONDO BRAND the red oxide bondo glazing put will shrink and expand in the heat !!!! Evercoats metal glaze is my personal favorite.
Plastic spreaders : A handful of these should be fine , clean them off with lacquer thinner after each use .
Anti -static eliminator : If your painting OEM bumpers or urethane parts then you’ll need this.
Fiberglass filler : If your putting on fiberglass aero parts then you’ll need some of this to build up the imperfections .Dynaglass and Tiger Hair are the best on the market.
Masking Tape : 3M !!!!!! A couple roll’s of 3/4 “ and 2 “ should be fine.
Masking paper: You can use newspaper but sometimes the paint soaks thru a roll of masking paper only runs 15 $
Body work 101

Assess the overall condition of the car , note the major damage and anything you‘ll have to fix before painting.

Rock chips : Hold the DA sander flat on the panel with the chips, starting with 180 grit move in a X pattern over the rock chips. Sand until the chip is sanded out and the bare metal is showing . Then switch to some 240 grit paper and feather edge the are you sanded , move up to 320 grit when finished the are should be free of any rough sanding marks and should look like a topographic map ( you should be able to see different layers of paint ).

Small dents : Dent’s less than 1/4 “ deep can be filled with out pulling the sheet metal . Use a picking hammer ( the pointed one) nock any high spots down , sand the area about 3” bigger than the dent with 80 grit then mix up some plastic filler and wipe the area in an X pattern , wipe the spot about 1” bigger than the dent . Let the Filler dry and sand with 80 grit on the DA in an X pattern. Next Sand the spot with a hand block and some 150 grit.
Mix up some glazing putty and wipe firmly in an X pattern about 1 “ bigger than the dent was .. Let the glaze dry
And sand with a block w/ 150 grit then move to 240 grit. Till the panel is straight.

Large dents : There's two ways to fix large dents. (1) find the low spots in the metal and drill holes in the lowest spots first size your drill bit so the screw bit on the slide hammer will tighten up in the hole. Now working slowly with the side hammer pull out the sheet metal working in the reverse order the damage happened. The other way is just the same instead of using a drill you use the stud gun . Once you got the sheet metal pulled out a close to the original shape as possible . Mix up some plastic filler and fill the dent this might take a couple of tries to get it close enough to use glazing putty. Glazing putty should not be more than the thickness of a nickel . Start with 80 grit moving in an X pattern then work your way up to 180 grit now your ready for the glazing putty . Wipe the area with glaze in an X pattern . And sand until you finish with 240 grit.

Fiberglass aero parts: Fit your parts first and note any fitment issues . I always take a wooden mallet ( face of the mallet is 1/2” . ) and a flashlight and shine thru the gel coat to the inside to see if there’s any air pockets between the fiberglass and gel coat. If you see any tap lightly with the mallet to expose the air pockets . Mix up some fiberglass filler and wipe the area sand in an X pattern starting with 80 grit rough out the area and blow it off . Mix some plastic filler and sand in an X pattern starting with 80 grit and work up to 180. Next mix your glaze and wipe in an X pattern , start sanding with 180 grit and finish with 240 grit.

Deep scratches: Follow the procedure for rock chips. Keep the DA flat and follow the length of the scratch.

Filling large holes : ( side markers , third brake lights, etc.) pretty simple if you can weld .
Cut you a piece of steel around the same thickness as the surrounding metal to match the shape of the hole your trying to feel, cut the piece 1/4” -1/2” larger than the spot you are trying to fill ,clean both pieces down to bare metal and start tack welding moving in alternate patterns so you don’t warp the metal . Grind down the welds with a grinder and fill with plastic filler , then glaze , always sanding in an X pattern finish in 240 grit.

When I talk about sanding in an X pattern , sand the spot down in 45 degree strokes then switch your body position and cross cut it in 45 degree strokes the other way.

Priming your body work

Take the scotch –brite and scuff up the area about 5 “ bigger than the are you sanded. Mask off anything you don’t want to get over spray on . Mix your primer and stir it up good ( mix accordingly to the manufacturer ) and pour thru a strainer ( paint store should give you some and some paint paddles ) and pour into your gun. Adjust your air pressure to around 35-40 psi . Practice on the masking paper , on your first coat start about 1“ bigger than the dent over lap 50% , let the coat flash ( flash means the primer is dry enough to accept another coat ) you can tell because it will go from wet looking to semi flat . On your 2nd coat prime about 2 “ bigger than the dent., let coat flash. On your third coat prime 3” bigger than the dent and let flash .

Its best to do all your body work and prime at one time

Prep work

Take all the areas you repaired and primed , spray some black spray paint just enough to mist over the primer this is your guide coat. Go to Lowe's / Home depot and get some 5 gallon paint paddles these work great for wet sanding. Take your 400 grit sand paper and roll your paint paddle up in it . Get you a cool bucket of water and a spray bottle full of water . Spray down the primed areas with water and sand in 45 degree strokes making sure to cross cut your strokes. Keep the paper clean by rinsing it in the bucket and keeping the surface wet. Sand until all the guide coat is gone , you should be able to tell if the area is straight or if it needs more work. If all is well Mask the car up again and spray one coat of primer over the repaired areas.

Next remove all the trim you possibly can . Door handles, mirrors, belt moldings , all lights and lenses , fuel door
, emblems , pin stripe ( 3M makes an eraser wheel that works for pin stripes and bumper stickers that chucks in to a standard drill).

Next Mask off anything you couldn’t remove that you don’t want to sand by accident. Blow dry the car off ,
grab the DA sander and the roll of 320 sandpaper. Sand the entire car down don’t hit the primered spots to heavy .
Wet the whole vehicle down and grab the paint paddles and 400grit wet sand paper . Wet sand the whole vehicle using the paint paddle as a block, keep it flat and remember to use 45 degree strokes and cross cut your work .

Now its time for the degreaser/blend prep . Take a scotch-brite pad and wet it take your Ajax/ Comet or “Ting” ,
“blend prep” and put a liberal amount on the pad fold it in half and wet it again . Now wet the vehicle and wash it using the pad and cleaner . The reason your doing this is to clean any contaminants from the surface and the particles in the cleaners along with the scotch-brite pads scuff ‘s the surface and helps out with adhesion.

Rinse the vehicle and blow dry .

Mask up anything you don’t want painted , windows moldings , etc. Trash bags work great for wheels and tires, and lunch bags work good for exhausts

Now wipe the car down with the precleaner that the paint line calls for .Use one lint free wipe soaked in the cleaner , and one to go behind it to dry it. ( think wax on , wax off) Next using a tack cloth ( the correct way to use a tack cloth is to open it all the way and fold it in halves . ) wipe down the entire car and all the area’s you have masked up.

Paint booth prep is simple ,sweep it out and we the floor and the walls down . ( do this before the car is in there.)

Now mix your sealer up and pour it in your gun . Put your respirator on , and get started .

Adjust your air pressure to 40-50 psi and your fan control on your gun 12” pattern, starting with the roof at the back in the middle hold the gun parallel and start moving toward the front of the roof when you get to the end go past the roof and overlap your pattern 50% and work your way back and forth till half of the roof is covered.
Walk to the other side and repeat the same procedure.
Move to the A pillars and then the sail panel
Next is the trunk and then the quarter panel and the door then the other quarter panel and door . Then the hood and fender then the other fender. I always paint bumpers off the car its just easier to get in all the tight spots with out leaning down . So paint the bumpers and all the small parts off the car .

Let the sealer flash and clean out your gun . Mix your base coat up and strain it and pour it in your gun .

Repeat the order , spraying the panels like that helps eliminate dry over spray.
If the paint has heavy metallic in it you may need to do a drop /fog coat to get the flake in uniform.
Hold your gun about 2 feet above the panel and pull the trigger moving the gun rapidly in the original pattern you sprayed in .
3 coats of base coat is the norm .
If you have any trash in the base coat don’t sweat it , once the base is dry to the touch ( check on the masking paper) take your spray bottle full of water and wet some 1500 grit and sand the pieces of trash out , touch up the spots with the spray gun , ITS IMPORTANT TO LET EACH COAT OF BASE FLASH OFF AND DRY ,WIPE EACH COAT WITH THE TACK CLOTH TO REMOVE ANY OVERSPRAY AND TRASH.

Clean your gun and mix enough clear for two coats I generally over reduce my first two coats when I’m painting in a non heated booth . It helps the clear lay down slick . Follow the panel order that you followed with the sealer and the base let each coat of clear flash off ( touch the wet clear on the masking paper the clear will be ready for the next coat when the clear sticks to your finger and makes little strings like hot bubble gum. Put your 2nd coat on and wait for it to flash . Mix up enough clear for two more coats ( mix it as the manufacturer suggests) and put the next two coats on observing the correct panel order and flash times. when the clear cmes out of the gun it has orange peel textue to it , don't worry it'll flow out and become smooth.

Clean your gun and let the car dry 12 –15 hours.
Un tape the car after the paint is dry wait 1 day before you buff it slick.

BEFORE YOU START WETSANDING THE CLEARCOAT REMEMBER ANY EDGE OR BODYLINE PEAK WILL HAVE LESS CLEAR THAN THE REST AND IS EASIER TO SAND THRU.!

Wet the whole car down , fill your spray bottle and get out the 1000 grit sand paper use a block and sand out the big pieces of trash and runs using the /////// pattern do not cross cut your strokes . After all the big stuff and runs are gone move up to 1500 grit . Cross cut your 1000 grit marks \\\\\\\\\\. Then sand the rest of the vehicle with 2000 grit and a block . Cross cutting the 1500 marks ///////////. Rinse the vehicle with water and blow dry. Put on some dirty clothes and some safety glasses and dust mask. Get out the extra cut compound and coarse foam pad . And start on the hood . On about 1/4 of the entire hood and put a bead of compound down rub it in with the buffer off .
Turn the buffer on to 2500-2800 rpm’s and move back and forth moderately holding the buffer tight Do one panel at a time and take your time and be patience . After the whole truck is buffed with the extra cut . Clean the pad , and repeat the process with the Clean cut compound . After that’s done switch to the fine pad and 3M perfect it II ultra fine, repeat the process until the shine is restored . Now grab your favorite polish / wax and hand rub the finish , buff off the hazed wax with a micro fiber towel. Wash the excess compound off and detail.

Buffing a fresh paint job is probably the hardest part of the job . There’s several good books to read on buffing a perfect finish .

Reassemble the car and take some Pic’s and enjoy.

Hope that helps out if you have any ?’s or something need s a little more explanation let me know I’ll try to help