PDA

View Full Version : **Cold Motor idle and driving problem**


nissandr1ft
09-12-2006, 08:09 PM
My car has pretty much been a lemon for the year I've owned it. My old motor never ran right, and if you want heres the thread about it... http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=967097#post967097 . Well I took that motor out, and put my other one in. I've had the new motor in for a little over a month, and Ive been problem solving. It runs and is drivable when its warm, but cold it wont come close to idling. When cold it basically dies on you when you hit the throttle like the TPS is unplugged. If you modulate the throttle enough you can get it moving, and then itll accelerate from about 2k and hit a wall at 4k and the exhaust will pop and eventually itll pass that. It gets progressivly better till operating temperature. Once warm it runs well enough to drive, but feels like Im driving a honda. Compared to my old KA's and my freinds car with similer bolt on's my car lacks tons of torque. Even when warm it feels like it has a miss at 4k, but starts to run better and 5500 to 6500 it runs fine. I've checked the codes a few times, and the only thing it throws is a 35 (EGR temperature sensor). I've noticed once warm it pulls much harder if you run at 4k for a bit then hit then go WOT. If you lay into it earlier it the car feels like its chained down. The motor doesnt have any emissions, and manifold is a 94ish model that never had butterfly valves. Ive replaced the IACV harness, cleaned the IACV, adjusted the TPS, positive the EGR isnt leaking, manifold isnt leaking, new PCV, cleaned the MAFS, and new ground on the MAFS. Ive plugged all the spots for vacuum on the mani, except the one right before the IACV and thats a line running straight to the FPR. Ive also tried another FPR, fue injectors, new rubber rings for the injectors, plug wires, distributer, coil, and ignitor. Ive been wondering what the other IACV thing is thats closer to the block. IIRC its the line the PCV connects to. Ive been thinkin that could be an issue since it deals with Idle air, and Ive also been thinking about the ECU just may have problems. I have another ECU which will allow it to barely run below 4k, but 4k on it runs pretty decent. I cant tell if its just the lack of power before 4k, or if it just runs better. Is there a site that lists what the numbers on the ECU's mean. The one in my car is a 92 cali auto ECU, and I'm thinking the other is a 95 manual. If anyone has any opinions on what to check next, or has similer problems just let me know.

nissandr1ft
09-14-2006, 05:46 AM
Anyone.... I checked the timing and it right on 20BTDC, and I just swapped the coolent temp sensor.